I recently got a model 27-9. I got this revolver to shoot centerfire portion in my bullseye matches and Distinguished Revolver Matches. It has not been going well finding a load that would shoot good at 50 yards. This is my first revolver and I am shooting with iron sights. At first I thought it was me or my reloads. But even off sand bags the shoots were landing all over the place and even off the target.
Then I enlisted the help of a friend that is more knowledgable about revolvers then myself. Well he found that I had a lot of lead build up in the forcing cone. I had never had any leading problems with my Ruger mark 3 or my 1911 so this was new to me. I have been shooting my own reloads, 158 grain SWC from Missouri Bullet, 2.9 grains of Clays, CCI primers.
So my question was why I would get so much lead build up. Well reading this forum someone was talking about that the bullet should be able to push thru the cylinder chamber with a moderate force. Well I can not get my bullets to pass thru with a lot of force. So do I have a problem with my cylinder? Should I send the gun back to Smith and Wesson and would they indeed fix it or just give me the corporate run around

As I see it, you have three choices:
1- Call Smith and see if they will fix it (advantage, if they send you a call tag,
it'll only cost you time to find out.

2- Hire a good custom pistolsmith to correct the problem (this should cure
the problem but will be somewhat costly in both money and time).

3 - Send it on down the road and replace it with another revolver without
the problems.

I know I said, THREE, but there is another choice - one that I would make.
If you have a mechanical background, you can slug the cylinder throats, and if they are undersize, you can buy a "made for the job" Manson Reamer kit complete with pilots and carefully ream the cylinders to the proper dimensions (.358" would be my choice).

I have done this to Ruger single action revolvers that exhibited tight throats and the accompanying serious leading. Afterwards, the single actions have exhibited stellar accuracy (well under an inch at 25 yards off a rest). YMMV

One last comment, having undersize cylinder throats on a Smith .357 is not common. I have had and still have a number of Smiths in .38 Special and .357 magnum (my current range favorites are a 6" Model 686 and a 4" Model 520 - blued, with titanium cylinder, and composite barrel and adjustable sights - not the fixed sighted New York LEO revolver of the same model name). I have gone through probably dozens of them and have NEVER seen one with undersize cylinder throats.

Confirm the measurements by slugging the cylinder throats and if undersize, by all means call Smith. Keep in mind that ALL manufacturers have a VERY low opinion of shooting reloads in their revolvers and pistols and you may not find a sympathetic ear.

NOTE:
The above might sound like I am not in favor of shooting reloads. That is NOT AT ALL the case. I cast bullets for many different calibers and have sent over 100,000 of my cast bullets and reloads in just the .45 ACP down the range in past years. I shoot NOTHING but reloads and shoot a lot of them.

FWIW
Dale53

Thanks Dale for your reply. What do you mean by slugging the cylinder throats. I took my calipers and Measured the throats and they are-.350, .352, .349, .354, .349,.350.

Measuring the throats with a caliper isn't very accurate.If you have a good gunsmith in your area.he could measure them and slug your bore.It sounds like the throats are tighter than the bore,you'll get leading and poor grouping with that combination.The throats can be opened up by a good smith.

Slugging the throat means to push a pure lead "slug" through the throat and measure the result. Some folks use an appropriate size lead fishing sinker. I use .375" muzzle loading round balls. They are pure lead and work very well for this purpose.

To slug a cylinder throat, remove the cylinder from the gun and support it on a suitable surface. Lube the throat and slug. I use a rawhide mallet to start the ball into the throat, then an appropriately sized hardwood dowel or brass rod to tap or push it the rest of the way through.

Use a 1" micrometer (best) or caliper to measure the result. Repeat for the remaining throats.

Your throats should measure in the .357"-.358" range.

Thanks Guys for your informed replies. I did call S&W, they are sending a shipping label out to me. So I will just wait to see if and what they will do about it, wish me luck.
Miland