Hey everyone new to forum here. My name is Dave and I'm from NJ. I've been shooting for 20 years and very comfortable handing guns and tools but I have a problem.

I took a newer shooter with me, not a complete newb, I've been shooting with him many times though and while I was on one lane with my Beretta he was on the other shooting my 3 inch 36-6 smith and Wesson revolver. Apparently the loads he was shooting were not loaded properly. He shot and it didn't fully leave the barrel. And get this he fired 2 or 3 more rounds down the barrel all getting stuck. thank god it didn't explode in his hand! Whew!

I don't think I would ever trust that barrel again so I'd like to remove it and replace it. Where on earth could I find one. It's matte black and 3 inches.

Please help.

When I say not loaded properly. I mean the guy who made the bullets. I believe they were not properly reloaded. I mention I'm good with tools, because I'm wondering if its something I can fix

First up, welcome to the Forum, though I'm sorry for the trouble leading to your first post.

I believe the 36-6 you're referring to is the target variation -- 3" lugged barrel and adjustable target sights. That was a limited production revolver, 615 made; it'll be difficult to find a replacement barrel.

Your best first bet is to have a qualified revolversmith clear the obstructions and inspect the barrel. Although it's possibly bulged, there's a chance it isn't and properly clearing the wedged bullets will result in a still usable firearm.

If it is bulged, to what degree? There are knowledgeable members here who argue that, depending on how much bulge, a bulged barrel can still be shot safely and accurately. I'm in the "a bulged barrel is a finished barrel" camp, but opinions vary.

Have it cleared and inspected by a pro first -- you might be all right. If not, searching for a replacement barrel will take leg work, probably posting in a lot of "Want to Buy" sections of classifieds. I've never seen one of these barrels advertised.

Alternately, you could fit a barrel from your 36's stainless twin, the Model 60 target variation, still in production. Throw in a matching stainless cylinder and you have a nice "pinto".

However, cost of parts and proper repair will arguably be prohibitive.

Let's hope the original barrel somehow survived.

Wow. That reply was everything I could have asked for. Thanks for all the insight. I'll get it professionally cleared and checked first. And yes it is rare its supposed to be one of only 600 made in 1989

You can also try to drive the bullets out yourself.I would wrap the Gun in a piece of thick leather and put it in a vise.You can then use a wooden dowel or better yet a brass Rod to drive the bullets out.You can also spray some Kroil or other penetrating lube the night before to try and loosen things up.

You have a relatively scarce gun, there were only 615 of them made. The matte finish (as you probably know) is marred fairly easily, so how it is handled could make a difference in the finish. What loads were they supposed to have been, HBWC target loads? If mild (evidently one had no powder) they may not have bulged the barrel. S&W barrels are really resilient, and your gun would have been made in the summer of 1989, so good steel is in it. Can the cylinder be opened or is it blocked? That can make a difference in how the project must be approached by the gunsmith. It is not a pinned barrel, but barrels can be removed and reinstalled by knowledgeable gunsmith's.

I'm very partial to these little 3" 36's, one of my favorites.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I'm gonna say if they didn't have enough power to leave the barrel then it probably wasn't enough pressure to bulge the barrel. As was said earlier I'd have someone with experience clear the barrel.

Sorry for the Squib loads but if you can inspect the barrel and ascertain there is no live ammo in the cylinder and barrel, then open the cylinder and place a rod, stainless or copper, and drive out the stuck rounds from the muzzle out the forcing cone. If the cylinder is stuck closed and you cannot open it, with fear of a round stuck in the forcing cone, I would completely disassemble the gun starting with the side plate, main spring, rebound slide, trigger, hammer so there cannot be a discharge if there is a live round in the cylinder or barrel. Then you can inspect the gun and not fear of a discharge. Good Luck.

Nick

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NRA Instructor\GCA Gunsmith

Certainly true for the first likely squib. The second and third rounds, though, might have been normal charges, but because of the initial blockage would not be able to exit and the pressure would have to "go" somewhere.

Ideally if unlikely, they all three were squibs, in which case proper removal and the revolver's probably fine.

Might be the limits of my knowledge, but isn't stainless too hard a metal to use in the bore, risking damage to the rifling?

IMHO, as an old pistolsmith, there are several factors to consider before attempting removal yourself; This is an uncommon and valuable pistol. Multiple bullets in the barrel magnify the problem exponentially with each extra bullet. The finish is easily marred. Therefore, IMHO, this is a job for a very qualified pistolsmith to preserve the handgun your investment and future value. Do not let anyone stick wood, copper or stainless steel down that barrel and pound on it. All can/will cause additional problems. IMHO, the barrel should be removed from the frame, centered in a lathe, located dead center and with a brand new top quality twist drill of the proper size the main portion of the lead bullets drilled out. Then a properly sized and square faced brass (better bronze) rod used to drive the lead shells out. The barrel should be checked for bulges. I am of the opinion that if a bulge in a pistol barrel is 'slight' go ahead and try it out on the range. As indicated an exact OEM barrel for this handgun is going to be next to impossible to find. Several replacements in alternate finishes are available, but to really look good again the whole gun would have to be refinished. I like the idea of the 'pinto' look with a chromed barrel/cylinder or a polished stainless steel barrel/cylinder, both which are available.

But, back to the original proposition; I too think this problem can be fixed by the right pistolsmith with total satisfaction in preserving the value of the handgun and returning it to service. ............ Big Cholla

I have done tis on a Colt SAA. worked like a champ on one bullet.

With multiple projectiles I would first try a black powder trick and use a ball puller.

Trying to hammer out 2 or 3 could make matters worse by driving one bullet into another. It might cause a wedge effect.

Then there is professional help.

If there is a bulge I would try shooting it after the bore is made safe and cleaned to remove all lead traces. If it shoots ok I probably would use it that way. If there is an issue with the bbl the best place to call is S&W.

When I first read the OP, I thought the same thing as model70hunter above, "why not use a ball puller?" If it were me, I'd first make sure the chambers of the cylinder were empty (preferably removing the whole cylinder assembly if possible) then put a suitably sized screw-in ball puller into the first bullet, pull it with a slide hammer, then repeat until the barrel was cleared. If you don't feel absolutely confident doing this (or whatever other procedure you use) on this relatively rare gun, by all means ask a professional for help.

Froggie

They were a wadcutter round. Not sure on grains. But they sounded kinda weak. Didn't really make a big bang. Crossing my fingers that everything will be okay.

Oh and yes the cylinder can open fine. But there's a bullet stuck right at the tip. And also one right after the cylinder. Maybe 1 or two in between can't be certain.

When you get the stuck bullets removed, please come back and tell us about it. I am always amazed at the number of people that ask for our advice and then never come back to finish the story. :-) ........... Big Cholla

I sure will. Not sure when I'm going to do it. Hopefully soon.

Hope everything turns out fine with the revolver, as it is indeed one of only 615 made.

When you're using reloads from someone else - you should trust them with your life - because they are holding yours in their hands. Remember that you are one of a kind.

IMO Big Cholla has given the best and most valuable advice here.

About all I can add is that on occasion when "stacking" bullets in the barrel by firing into a squib the barrel can get bulged in the portion that threads into the frame. If this were to happen it is quite likely that the frame will crack when an effort is made to try and remove the barrel. The frame can also crack when the revolver is just sitting with that bulged barrel exerting additional force on the frame barrel junction.

Hopefully the bullets being used were soft lead wadcutters or soft plated bullets. If so the odds are somewhat good that there hasn't been any bulging of the barrel. I'll keep my fingers crossed on that being your outcome.

Brought it to the gun smith. He said he couldn't help me. Gotta call smith and Wesson. I called them, they said they're are 7 months behind and there isn't a matte barrel available for it at all.

First; welcome to the forum!

Second; that bites!

I've never dealt with this issue before so I'll keep my mouth shut and say, good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

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But then, what do I know?

I'd recommend contacting a different gunsmith. I can recommend Cylinder and Slide.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I don't know about the barrel, but that revolver should go back to S&W to have it thoroughly checked over for safety purposes.

What a shame, especially with an uncommon gun. Too late now, but a serious discussion with your friend is in order. I think it would be a miracle if the barrel survived, not to mention the frame and cylinder. I seriously doubt S&W will act under warranty but they would be the one to examine and possibly repair the gun, if possible. Ouch!!

I would think you could get a toolmaker or a real good michinest to set it up on a mill (disassembled and properly set up) would not have to take the barrel off that way and drill it out. I know I could do that without doubt. Toolmaker for 30 years.

I suppose a trip to S&W is in order, and the subsequent long wait. If you do send it in, be forewarned that some members who have sent particularly damaged guns in have been told by S&W that their revolver couldn't be fixed and "needed to be destroyed".

Some members report going along at S&W's word without question, only to later regret it. Usually they are offered a discount on a new S&W firearm, which is fine, but don't forget -- that Model 36 is your property to do with as you please; it's every bit your right it request it be returned.

Alternately, it indeed might be fixable either by S&W or another gunsmith. I don't know where you are in NJ, but Pinnacle High performance over the border in PA has an excellent reputation with S&W revolvers; might want to give them a call.

Isn't there a ball puller for black powder muzzle loaders. Would come thing like that work here, pulling them in reverse order, last one in first one out.
What about heat, I know lead is going to melt well before the barrel. I'm not talking destroying any tempering maybe warm it up to soften the lead and then try pulling. Something like an auto body shop dent puller.
Just my humble Rube Goldberg ideas. If I'm full of it please don't hesitate to let me know.

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Back to back World War Champs.

I'll ask the question again, what loads were they? Mild HBWC target loads? If so, there is a distinct possibility the barrel is not damaged. What it takes is a "qualified" gunsmith that can remove the barrel, properly line it up to bore down through the center of the mass and then remove them one at a time. This near exact same thing happened many years ago on out local police range, where a "Lieutenant" came out to shoot a bullseye match with his Mod 10 service weapon. He stuck 5 rounds in the 4" barrel, and they were HBWC target loads. The dept. armorer removed the barrel, drilled out the center, and pulled the remaining. Reinstalled the barrel and the gun put back in service without any evidence of damage and shot as well as it ever did. It just takes a gunsmith capable. And, I would be cautious about returning to S&W, as they have no replacement parts and I am pretty sure would not return it but offer a favorable price to replace it. Look around for a qualified gunsmith.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

+1 to what H Richard said! As several folks have said, clearing the bore will not be that big a challenge for a real gunsmith (not a "parts changer") and if the barrel is undamaged otherwise, you are good to go... if the barrel is damaged on the other hand, well, let's hope it isn't damaged!

Froggie

I agree, light target loads -- or better yet, three squibs in a row -- and there's a good chance the revolver isn't damaged and just needs a qualified revolversmith to keep it that way while getting it back in working order. I actually applaud OP's gunsmith for declining the work, presumably in acknowledgement that it was outside his expertise.

I don't think S&W can legally keep any privately owned firearm against the owner's will, regardless of condition. It's private property and not to return it seemingly constitutes theft.

Do not return to S-W
I sent a 43-C in for warranty work ( broken trigger pin ) July 2013 and have nothing to resolve the problem. I was told it would have to be replaced in October. This winter had time to spend on getting something done. Was told they have none in stock and no date on one being available. I offered to trade and the only choice I was given was 200-300 dollars less in list price. I said send me the gun back, guess what it has been destroyed. My idea is if you send to S-W they may destroy it if the barrel is bulged, even slightly. I am telling this so you won't make the same mistake I did. I had a pro gunsmith check it before I sent it in. He said he could fix it, but being the gun was only about 18 months from the factory he suggested S-W warranty. I sent a copy of purchase ticket and S-W is going to refund the price I paid originally. I have not received a check yet, but this has only been 3 days ago. My advice is have a pro do it and still have your gun. Good Luck

This is a rare(ish) piece, and will be functionally impossible to replace. I would give serious thought to following Big Cholla's advice (use a pro, in sum). I would be hesitant to send it to S&W because they will err on the side of caution if they have any concerns about the condition of the revolver after getting the stuck bullets out. While this will not be easy or cheap, I would solicit opinions on the forum from some of the very knowledgable folks here about a top level gunsmith to assess and address the problem, and plan on spending the time and money to do it right. It is a sound investment in giving you the best chance of an outcome you desire. (It is not for sure, but you can move the odds in your favor.)

Hard lesson: do not use ammo of uncertain ancestry. In this case, with WC ammo, you likely lucked out, and certainly did in terms of the risk of injury to yourself or your friend. If you handload your own, make sure you learn to do it with excellence and while putting the hyphen in anal-retentive. If you buy ammo, don't go cheap - buy once, cry once. Some folks tell me I am wasting money with my choices of ammo suppliers, but one busted up gun that is a pain to replace on my dime will change the balance sheet for ever.

Good luck, and keep us informed.

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NHI, 10-8.

I won't be using reloads ever again. I'm having a different smith take a look at it to see what he thinks. If the barrel can't be salvaged, I'm ok with the idea of a stainless barrel and cylinder, might look kinda neat.

beltfed: Without actually seeing your handgun, IMHO, that barrel can be saved with virtually no damage. I've been thru that exercise too many times. If this Smith hesitates or qualifies in the least, get a second opinion. Find a gunsmith that has a good lathe and knows how to use it. ........ Big Cholla

Update, my father took the gun to his friends machine shop and worked on it all day. He got FOUR bullets out of the barrel. He heated up a screw driver and a pick and slowly got them out piece by piece. So the barrel is clear now aside from lots of leftover lead all around the inside of the barrel and rifling. Is there a way we could hone it out and keep the rifling in good shape and just get the lead out?

Get a Lewis lead remover or wrap some copper chore boy around a bore brush that will just fit and you can shave that lead out.

Scrub it out. It may take time, but you are on your way there. I would not use any kind of abrasive. Bore brush with the chore boy is the best. Start small and keep going bigger.

Congrats, you may have your gun back.
I had a Dan wesson 357 with a bulged barrel. Shot it like that for years. Never a problem.

Well, glad the bullets are out, but I hope the rifling isn't ruined from a hot screwdriver and pick jammed around in there. Does your dad have experience with this...and a delicate touch?

Lots of good threads around here on getting lead out; suggest a search. Lewis Lead Remover is my tool of choice, but it takes some elbow grease with more than a mild amount of leading; presume you have a lot, so perhaps a soak in a gun cleaning solvent specifically designed for lead removal might be a best first choice, with the LLR for finishing touches.

Here's a a good recent thread on the subject: What's you're preferred lead remover?

Once you have it all cleaned up, I'd still take it to a qualified revolversmith to assess condition and safety before putting rounds through it.

Wadcutters are easy to remove. Remove the stocks,so solvent doesnt hurt them. Prop the gun barrel up. Fill the barrel with a quality lead removal cleaner. It will dissolve the edges of the bullets working its way down between the barrel and bullets,coming out the bottom. It will take several fillings and a couple of days. The bullets will losen up enough to be pushed or tapped out with a rod. This will also work with jacketed bullets using a copper removing cleaner.just takes more fills and days. This is not a theory as I have done it several times. Patience, several fills, rags to soak the mess coming out the bottom of the barrel as the bullets melt, are all you need.

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Jim McGhee

1. Remove cylinder
2. Clamp between two wood boargs in a vice, with muzzle upward.
3. fill barrel with Hoppes #9 bore solvent and let stand over night.
4. with a brass rod or wood dowel with the diameter slightly smaller than the bore size. gentle taps on the rod/dowel end with a proper size hammer and drive the bullet (s) downward and out the cylinder end of the barrel.