Hello all:

I have a question for all. If a person (me) wanted to buy a used (slightly used) J Frame w/hammer (and maybe a lighter model) what model would be best to consider?

Let me hear all of your divergent opinions.

There are some Taurus Model 85s out there for about $300. I have researched them and find that many have very, very hard trigger pulls "right out of the box." I just purchased an old 5" Hand Eject pre-war, pre-Model 10; and it is one of the best shooters I have. Trigger is nearly as good as the new Ruger 357 LCR of mine.

Anyway, I thought I might pay some difference and buy a used Smith rather than a lesser brand new gun.

Thoughts on what to buy? Point me in the right direction now, LOL!

Thanks!

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"That is all!"

That equals the Chief's Special, assuming you want to stay with a .38 Sp.
Model 36 blue, Model 37 airweight, Model 60 stainless.
2" is most common, but the late Model 60 3" with full lug barrel is a good shooting small frame. And the tapered 3" barrels will holster pretty well.

Another model to consider is the 638, the classic humpback frame w/a hammer that can be cocked for single action use, but still pocket carried. I have both the older M38 and the stainless 649 in .38 spl.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

It sounds like you may want a model 37 .I 've had model 36,37, 60 and a few Colt Detective Special's and Cobra's in the past my new favorite is a model 642 hammerless that is in my right front pocket most of the time.

Rhetorician,
I think Old Cop has a very good answer to your question. I was going to buy another 649 last year till I found a 640 Pro. The 649 or 638 will give you the ability to shoot in either single or double action yet not have a large exposed hammer to snag when deploying the gun.

All great ideas for you to think about. Look at the S&W 637. My EDC, goes everywhere, and if you don't think about it, you can forget you have it along.
Dave
SWCA #2778

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mr mom
Fire Chief, Retired

I just looked at a new 637 in a LGS. It's looks like what you might want.

It's new and had a lock.

I also just purchased a model 37 airweight which is a similar gun in blue. Aluminum frame, steel cylinder and barrel.

Paid $400 in CA dollars.

It was made in the mid 70's but would qualify as "lightly used".

Dave

Most of your S&W 5-shot J frames are going to have an acceptable trigger - at least the ones I've had that were made between the mid 80s to mid 90s. Just remember that whatever you get, start a dry fire regiment to become comfortable with the trigger. When you can consistently cycle it double action without disturbing the sight picture, you are on your way to mastering the smallz, snubby resolver.

So, I own several J frame models. For pure carry I'd go with the older Ti guns if your wallet can support the purchase. They are Super light and accurate. No fun to shoot on a regular Basis. My second choice are the Airweight models. The 638 is my favorite of this series and my EDC for the last year or so.

This is a 442, but I carry a 642, the non blued stainless cylinder and barrel or the 638 Humpback shown. I like the 642 best as I work in a dirty environment most of the time and the closed hammer area keeps dirt from sifting in. Other than that the 638 has a great single action trigger and I have installed an Apex kit to play with that has a tremendous effect on the action. I would go with the 642, just my .02.



Found a picture of my 642 but now it has rubber compact grips so I can pocket carry it.

You're looking for a M 37 or M38. Compare these side by side with their three digit contemporaries before you buy.

I have a model 60, 637,638, and 642...much as I love the 60, for right front pocket carry, I like the 638 and 642 the best..there is a very noticeable difference in weight between the 60 and the lightweight J frames.. the design of the 638 and 642 enable snag-free draw from the pants pocket..

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NRA PATRIOT BENEFACTOR LIFE

I love my 649 all the way ...I can shoot it almost as good as my $5k 1911

As long as you know what to check for when buying a used Smith, there is no downside IMHO. From what I have seen of the Taurus 85, Rossi, etc. I'd only go with the Smith Chief's Special in one form or another.

Another great 2" carry gun is a Colt Dick Spl. Only slightly larger than the Chief's but holds 6 rounds and is a bit easier to shoot with stiff +P loads due to it's slightly larger frame and extra 2 ounces. The cylinder however does turn the "wrong way".

More data to help you help me. And I am aware that this is just a "taste thing" mostly.

I would like something under 16 oz. and WITH a hammer for single or double action options--stainless, blue, or matted. It does not matter. But I do not want to break the bank.

Let me hear from you.

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"That is all!"

15 ounces, just over $400.00 new. Lifetime warrenty. Its a 637.
I also have a chiefs special model 36 (all steel) 2" and a model 36 3".
I carry this gun a LOT mostly in an ankle holster.



I had a BG38 but it wore out way too fast, so I traded it for this one.

If you are interested in the "other brands" just get one and a smith next to each other. Feel the quality, endshake, fit and finish of both. It will be easy to see why the other brand is $100.00 less.

Do as you wish.
David

From your post above it sounds like you are looking for a model 637 or 638. Both have an external hammer. The 637 is exposed, the 638 is shrouded to reduce snagging if carried in a pocket.

Both retail new for the same price. They meet your weight specs. I can't comment on used prices as that seems to vary by region, and in my region I rarely (if ever) see a used one for sale at all. You can't go wrong with either one.

Good Luck!

I have an elderly M38 Bodyguard.
The shrouded hammer is very well covered and the hump of the shroud hampers thumb access. You really have to WANT to make a single action shot. It is operationally no different from my 640, I haven't cocked it for SA since I first got it and felt I had to use all its capabilities.

Here are some photos of my J-frame revolvers that I hope will help you in your selection:

Photo 1: (left to right) Model 38-0, Model 60-7, Model 432PD, Model 642-1. With the exception of the Model 432PD (32 H&R Magnum), the remaining revolvers are all chambered in .38 Special. The Model 642 is equipped with a cylinder that has been cut for moon clips from a donor Model 442.

Photo 2: Bodyguards (aka humpbacks): top: Model 38-0 with a nickeled cylinder from a donor Model 38, bottom left: Model 638-1 (stainless steel cylinder and barrel anodized alloy frame), bottom right: Model 649-0 (all stainless steel frame, cylinder and barrel). All of these Bodyguards are chambered in .38 Special.

Regards,

Dave

Attached Images

	SAM_0981.jpg (97.5 KB, 106 views)
	J-frame Bodyguard #1.jpg (78.6 KB, 89 views)

I have owned and carried a wide variety of J-frames over the years, most had stiff triggers in double action. My current EDC is a 642. Period. I also have a 640, very nice gun. But I still reach for my 642. I might be tempted by a 442 (no difference, really) if I ever find one available used (i.e. without the lock).

The current J's have a much better trigger than their past cousins. The wide MIM trigger provides smooth double action control (I know, I know, it looks ugly, but "form follows function").

I keep thinking about going all Airweight (442/642) for snubbies. I shoot Buffalo's standard pressure 125 grain JHP and they are pleasant and effective to shoot in the Airweights.

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"Sacramento" Bruce Conklin

Any of the J frames would do the job, but if weight is a concern go with one of the Airweights. I carry a 642 Airweight in warm weather and it works out well.

My next purchase is going to be a 442 AirWeight, the one I looked at yesterday had a black finish, 389.00. That sold me! The cookie jar fund is better than half way there.

I faced the same situation as the OP when I started into S&W's. I went through a couple 'other' brands and found that a used S&W was a better investment. If you hunt around you'll be able to find a used J frame for the same, or less, than a new 'other' brand. And, IMHO, it'll be a better gun.

That's my 2 cents.

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But then, what do I know?

Hello all:

OK! OK! I have "kinda" "sorta" settled on the 637 J Frame 38 special. What I need to know is, do they have a smooth trigger pull. If I test one at the LGS and then buy one online, will the Smith be consistent.

I have a 357 LCR and I could not want a trigger pull any better. As a novice when I bought it I thought it was the best thing since sliced bread. Come to find out it is one of the best in the industry--or at least the best I have seen / felt!

Let me know about the consistency issue if you will please?

Thanks!

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"That is all!"

I don't think anybody on here is going to "guarantee" you that amongst all the jay models across all the years of production, you will get a consistent TP....even within guns of the same model. The manufacturing process makes that a practical impossibility. What you will find is that it is MUCH easier to do a simple spring-job on a Jay that will produce the trigger you want and still provide good functionality. Simpler than fooling with most other brands. Wolff, Apex and others sell spring kits. I find that the more any of these guns are fired, the smoother the trigger....which makes sense. You're not going to find a J-Frame with an unmanageable trigger for the average shooter. Matter-of-fact....it's not so easy to find a good used Jay right now for a decent price anyway. The $300 figure for one is mythical in my part of the world right now.

Snubbiefan,

I want to thank you for the quick response and especially for your expertise. When I took my Ruger 357 LCR "out of the box" the trigger was butter smooth. I would like to quote one of my favorite TV funny men; "Tim the toolman Taylor" who once said: "Wait just a minute--back up the trolley...!"

I don't want to get censured for bashing S & W, for I do not think that is what I am doing. But why would I want to pay north of $400 for a new weapon and then have to have a "trigger job?" / "spring job!" Or, "dry-fire" the trigger 500 to 1000 times to help it smooth out?

No acrimony intended--just an honest question? And I do know that no manufacturing can be completely consistent across the board. But one of the reasons I bought my little Taurus 738 380 acp and my LCR was for the ease and consistency of the trigger.

My observations.

Let me hear from you. And I hope my asserted opinion does not bring ire from all of the S & W purists? LOL!

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"That is all!"

I don't think you're bashing....just searching. I have pulled triggers and sold a bunch of LCR's and if you have a wonderful trigger on the one you have, that may not apply to the next LCR you may un-box. AND....there is not much you can do about it. I would not expect a "bad" trigger on any Jay. The same components are used in all the models (save some things in the "hammerless" examples). You have ways to easily remedy a really bad TP on a Smith, if it turns out to be not to your liking. Sometimes, a trigger-job is as simple as removing a couple of rubs or a burr and that holds true for any brand. In any event, if you're handy with tools, you can re-spring a Jay in 30-minutes-or-so and for around $20 worth of springs.

Let me say that I would be surprised if most of the enthusiast here on the forum don't own other brands of guns as well and some of those shoot just as good as a Smith (not bashing either). My daily carry is an IA Rossi M88. I would rather turn-over a $300 Rossi to a LEA after the bad-thing happened than any of my more expensive Jay's. You can put a decent trigger on a Taurus and the older Rossi Interarms M88's are for all practical purposes, a mimic of the S&W M60. Taurus short-cut the trigger lock-work with one long spring only and it's not that easy to get an aftermarket spring to work, but the hammer-spring is a piece of cake...just like the Smith.

If you purchase off the web, find a deal that offers a right-to-return and if you get stuck with a lemon, you can send it back home. I purchase web-guns like I would a used car. No matter what the salesman says.....assume it's had the snot ran out of it. I think you really need to spend some time at a shop or dealer that will let you load some up with snap-caps and give them a test-drive. That may be the only way you will know what you're buying.

I have a 637. Its a few weeks old or so. I have fired a few hundred rounds through it. When it was new, the timing was a little early so double action it would get a little stiffer just before firing. I thought this was fine because I knew it would wear in. I Single action is superb and has been since new. I mostly shoot double action. It has smoothed out.
I can feel no end shake at all. Turning the cylinder back in forth I see no movement in the crane, unlike my old model 2" 36 no dash.

I just also bought a 3" 36 no dash. It looked unfired. It has a grooved trigger which does not feel near as good as my 637. I only have about 100 or so rounds through this one. The smooth trigger on the 637 feels better to me.

This is only one 637, mine. Yours could be different. Better or worse.

Just buy it and shoot it!

agreeing with this man's assessment too......... Charter, Rossi & Taurus all made/make copies of the S&W pistol & each was a step down in quality to the Smith's.......

I too also carry an old parkerized Colt Agent .38 spec snubbie as a companion piece to my old S&W mod 37 snub................ but my Agent is aluminum framed, (like the Colt Cobras) with steel cylinder, barrel & guts.......... so Plus P .38 spec ammo is fired seldom in it ... One thing to remember if getting an aluminum framed pistol........... you just can't use a lot of the heavy loads in them. The vast majority of our shooting of those two being lead semi-wad cutters over a load of Unique to produce rounds in the 700 FPS or so out of them or in my old Python too.............

All of the Js I have owned or still own were manufactured between approximately 1987 and 1995. None have had a trigger that was so bad out of the box that it couldn't be shot consistently. Those guns have included a 36, 37, 60 (38/3 inch), a 60 in 357, a 940, and a couple of 640s. Of them all, the 36, which is the oldest also has the smoothest trigger. The 37, which I no longer have, was pretty decent, and the 640 I still have is very nice. The 3 inch 60 is the worst only cause it is not that smooth but is not what I would call heavy. That gun was manufactured around 89-90. While you may not find complete consistently, you won't find anything that is horrible, or you shouldn't buy it. I'm not a big proponent of changing springs to lighten the trigger of a J anymore, but suggest instead to have a gunsmith polish the action to achieve a smooth pull. Anyway, a lot of dry firing goes a long way toward smoothing the action and getting used to the trigger. While you're at it, have the gunsmith radius the trigger face. It makes your trigger finger that much happier. I haven't played with the new Rugers, but if that's what you like, and they prove reliable in the long run, not a problem. But in terms of spending extra money on smoothing a j frame trigger, it's sort of like buying a Mustang GT and then adding an aftermarket intake, exhaust and shifter. Yeah, it works acceptable from the factory, but runs a lot better and is a little more personalized when you get done with it.

I'm thoroughly biased toward S&W revos so there is no other brand to mention. What I would suggest you consider is the primary method of carry. I have a 442 - pocket carry is 80% of it's job description so the story ends there.

However, if I was looking for a gun to carry IWB, I'd step up to a six shot snub and wouldn't require an internal hammer. Good luck and enjoy your new gun when you decide.

The 442 and 642 are being made again with no internal lock. I picked up a 442 no-lock new for 400 at my LGS and carry it in a Remora pocket holster when the weather gets really hot.

I carry an M49, the blue steel Bodyguard (See my avatar pic). I traded an airweight Centennial for it, and don't recall much felt difference due to the weight. I got it used and have shot it a lot, so the trigger is smooth and easy for me to use; if I do my part, the little blaster will do it's part out to 100 yd or more (look up videos by Bob Munden and Jerry Miculek).
Good, hand-filling grips are essential. I have the skinny wood 'lemon peel' grips with a T-Grip adapter, and it fits my large-average hands perfectly, yet slips easily in and out of the pocket where I carry it.
Also, don't be afraid to sell or trade if your first choice seems lacking.
Be safe and HAVE FUN!

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Registration? NEVER!

Yup, and you can get them cut for moon clips too. Here is my 642 Pro no lock and cut for moon clips. I know it doesn't have a hammer like the OP wants, but for pocket carry or conceal carry draw from the waistband, there is no finer IMO.

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Still carrying my S&W 642

I'm a fan of just the plain old Model 36. I just love it. A faithful old friend.....