Can we discuss what are good, better and best tools to have or maintaining revolvers?

Also, how often should you disassemble your revolver and lubricate it internally? Do most owners do this or send it back to S&W or use a gunsmith?

1. Brownells has a set that fits the screws on a S&W revolver.
2. S&W is NOT going to clean your revolver for you.
3. Unless you shoot a lot or drop it in water, it is not necessary to routinely disassemble the revolver.

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Science plus Art

Years ago I bought a gunsmith driver kit from Brownells that had a quality driver handle with about 40 different bits, been invaluable.

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State of Jefferson
Jim

Brownells Magna-Tip 58 piece set is the way to go. Best birthday present my girlfriend ever got me.

If you DO decide to remove the sideplate (using appropriate screwdrivers as mentioned), be sure to search on this forum for the proper technique. It's critical - but not especially difficult.

Brownell's makes what you need. I remove the sideplate whenever I get bored, or just want to have a moment of silence with these old Smith & Wesson revolvers. Sometimes, I clean them, other times I just examine the beautiful engineering that's gone into these rascals. It's a hobby and a passion. I love these old guns, and every time I take one apart, I discover something new.

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Why, I aughta.....

You can buy wonderful screwdriver kits from the various supply houses. Back when my identical-twin brother (deceased) has just started his law enforcement career, he bought some decent hardware store screwdrivers and adapted the tips to what was needed for working on various handguns. He had a screwdriver for just about each type of screw commonly found on S&W and Colt handguns. Whatever you do, use screwdrivers that are ground w/ parallel sides (hollow ground) so that the tip will fit all the way to the bottom of the screw slot. Otherwise one is likely to have screws w/ slots that are damaged.

I have been shooting S&W revolvers since 1980. I have no idea how many rounds I've fired in those years. I have routinely cleaned the exterior of my revolvers. Occasionally that involves dismounting the crane and cylinder, but normally that simply is not needed or necessary. I have not ever had a instance in which I have needed to open up one of my revolvers to clean the interior. I've not normally carried my carbon-steel revolvers in inclement weather. I have carried my stainless-steel revolvers in such weather. At the most all that was ever needed was to simply remove the grips and rinse the interior out with WD-40 or some similar oil. Following up with by blowing the interior dry w/ compressed air and using some light lubrication oil (CLP, etc.) finished things up.

If one of my revolvers ever got a dose of mud, etc., then it'd be time for look inside. But for general day to day shooting, using, carrying, there is no reason to routinely be removing the sideplate, etc. If someone buys a new car and drives it in dusty hot conditions, he will do the routine maintenance changing the oil and other fluids. But he will not commonly drop the oil pan, pull the head, etc., just because he's been driving the car. Normally motors stay buttoned up... unless/until something goes wrong. Why should anyone assume that a revolver should be stripped down periodically simply because it has been used. As a rule they are not designed to be frequently disassembled/reassembled. Granted such is common with many semi-automatics. But in general, most of those pistols are not so finely fitted. Except for a few exceptions, that is not the case with a revolver.

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I recently bought a nice set of seven drivers by Grace Tools from Amazon. They were advertised as S&W and Colt specific. I think they were about $42 before shipping. Other than removing grips I hadn't had much reason to use them until yesterday.

I was inspecting my Model 17 and noticed some "grinding" marks on the pivot area of the crane and I needed to remove the cylinder to inspect. There was a sharp burr on the pivot than needed a little steel wool work. My Grace driver set had the perfect size for the cylinder screw and I was able to remove and replace perfectly. They also make a pick and hook set that I ordered just the other day but it has not arrived yet.

Removing the cylinder for a good cleaning is part of my routine. I would not think of doing it without the proper screwdriver. A Brownells Magna-Tip four piece set is only about $20.

I make my own screwdrivers. The kits are good, but I just typically buy the plastic handles to pound on to the end.

If you're going to buy a set for gunsmithing, Chapman makes good stuff, here in the USA. A lot of the "gunsmith" kits by other manufacturers are made in China, and are steaming piles of you-know-what.

Last week, I removed the sideplate and crane assembly from my 66-3 for the first time in 20 years. I found a little grunge that easily cleaned up, gave it a light spray of S&W Advanced Gun Oil, and reassembled. Good for another 20years, unless it gets dropped in a mud puddle or totally immersed. Good advice on using only ground tip screwdrivers. I have the inexpensive 4-piece Brownell's set.

When I first started working in the firearms business (mid 70's) a wise old gunsmith told me more guns are harmed by overcleaning than by firing, dropping, being carried. He told me he could not count the times someone has brought him a bag of parts and asked to have it "re"-assembled.

I subscribe to the flush-it-out-with-WD-40 school. I did that (or less) to the training guns I used in my classes and never had a problem with them. Well, never with Smiths and Rugers anyway. The Dan Wesson M15s gave me trouble every time they were used.

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"Sacramento" Bruce Conklin

Practical, you can learn a lot from someone nearby who has owned revolvers for years, by watching how they approach a maintenance regimen. As stated by others; its not necessary to thoroughly clean a revolver after every shooting. A quick blast with a dedicated solvent will remove most powder residue. I routinely clean my guns after every range trip, but this is my own unique regimen. You can find the proper disassembly tools at Brownell's, and Midway Supply. Tools range in quality from cheap Chinese drivers with magnetic bits, to quality service items from manufacturers like Proto, Snap-On, and MAC. I had a magnetic-bit set from S&K, and have used it for years until I recently retired it for a newer Proto driver; which came in a much 'more-expansive' boxed set, with just about every bit from Pozis to Robertsons inclusive. I used these alternatively for computer repair, and they work exceptionally well on guns. A small 1/4" ratchet-bit driver from GearWrench, or Eastwood is also a nice addition to add to your range bag. Nice for removing specialized torx, and allen 1911 grip screws, and I highly recommend one. There are also instructional videos detailing the cleaning of firearms, and the products used. These are usually on-sale for less than twenty dollars retail. Do not use regular screwdrivers for removing gun screws, they do not fit the slots right, and will mar the screwheads, and slip-off gouging your firearm's finish!

Those guys are smart so do everything they say except don't use WD-40. It is a dust magnet.

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Accuracy supercedes Speed

I found that the Wheeler's Engineering big set of screwdriver tips and two drive handles are just what is needed to find a perfect screwdriver for any firearm related screw. I think that their allen head tips are slightly undersized. I substituted Chapman's allen heads and have been totally satisfied. Brownell's has the Wheeler set, but Amazon has it much cheaper. I have never had to regrind a Wheeler's, but have had to do so for Brownell's set and others.

An aside: I don't like magnetized tips on my working screwdrivers. The magnet seems to work against me. The Wheeler set is not magnetized, but you can always use the Brownells handles if a job must be completed by using a magnet tip. YMMV. ........... Big Cholla

Here's another driver you may want to check out: this one is a non-magnetic from Ideal which works with different bits.

33 Piece Quick Change Screwdriver Set

Another vote for the 89 piece Wheeler screwdriver set. Mine has served me well.

The instruction manual will tell you that you do not need to go further than opening the cylinder to properly clean and lube an S&W revolver.

I strongly suggest you heed that advice.

One drop of a light gun oil, such as Break Free, dropped into the inside by cocking the hammer back and then working the action is all you need to do, and you don't need to do that more than once every several years.

If you drop the revolver into the ocean or into a mud hole, my answer would be different.

This is great advice.

I disassemble my revolvers as I purchase them and lube them with moly.
I haven't seen them dirty on the inside yet.

I've got a set of hollow ground screw drivers than have GOT to be at least 50 years old-snagged then from my dad along with some ammo boxes, some punches and his old craftsman drill.
Unfortunately karma does come around to bite one on ones backside and my son is now snagging my stuff Oh well-at least he's family

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