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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 04-27-2014, 07:49 PM
StarchedCover StarchedCover is offline
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Default Model 696 - light primer strike in DA

Well I managed to find a 696 a couple of weeks ago after much searching.

It's in great shape and has one of the finest trigger pulls I've ever felt in a revolver.

Today I had a chance to run one box of factory 240gr LSWC (PMC) through the gun @ a B27 target 10 & 15 yds. away.
I fired 10 rounds single action and was very happy with the way it shot.
I fired the rest of the box double action and had 5 light primer strikes that failed to actuate the primer until I shot them again and that made them work.

To say that the experience was a bit disconcerting is an understatement. I know that someone has massaged the trigger, my question is how do I regain 100% reliability in DA?

I have read the term "grail gun" on this forum a good bit, I now understand it; I really like my 696 (no dash).

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:04 PM
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Default Light Primer Strikes?

Is the hammer spring strain screw tight? Some think that backing that screw out a bit is a cheap and easy trigger job, it isn't.
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:02 PM
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Sometimes the hammer spring is bent to achieve a light trigger too, if so, bend it back or replace it.

Wolff makes great after-market springs, or try S&W.
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:24 PM
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Shortening the strain screw is another, "Bubba trigger job."
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gboling View Post
Shortening the strain screw is another, "Bubba trigger job."
No...shortening the strain screw is the factory recommended method for reducing hammer fall. (always work on the cheapest part) But it can certainly be over done...
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Old 04-28-2014, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikor View Post
No...shortening the strain screw is the factory recommended method for reducing hammer fall. (always work on the cheapest part) But it can certainly be over done...
Quite true. To add to this the stainless Strain Screws also peen shorter with use, IMO a lot faster than the blued Strain Screws due to the stainless being softer. The hot tip here is to replace your strain screw with the blued version if you find you need a new strain screw and your chosen grips cover this area. It's also wise to remove the stainless strain screws about every 1000 rounds downrange and file down the ring around the tip that is formed by the tip peening. If you don't keep that ring trimmed back you'll find you run the risk of damaging the threads in the frame trying to force it out. Note, careful work with a needle file can allow that ring to be filed down if you find yours is really tight when you try to remove it.
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:09 AM
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Try a different brand of ammo. Could be the primers,
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:03 PM
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Yes, while it does sound like your hammer is a little light, firing on the second DA strike usually indicates primers which are not fully seated.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:19 PM
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With factory ammo, the ammo related problems are lower on the list.

Check the strain screw first and the mainsping second.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:23 PM
gwalchmai gwalchmai is offline
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With only 1 in 10 rounds showing a problem, marginally seated primers are worth looking at, especially since they fire after the first strike seats them.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:47 PM
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Default Fixing it...

Simplest and most effective fix is to install the slightly-longer firing pin and better spring available from several sources. This ensures all primers, light springs, etc do not affect the strike.
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
With only 1 in 10 rounds showing a problem, marginally seated primers are worth looking at, especially since they fire after the first strike seats them.
Quote:
Try a different brand of ammo. Could be the primers,
Quote:
Simplest and most effective fix is to install the slightly-longer firing pin and better spring available from several sources. This ensures all primers, light springs, etc do not affect the strike.
When I hear hoofbeats, I think horses; not zebras.

Check the strain screw, then the mainspring. This could be as simple as tightening the strain screw.
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:32 PM
gwalchmai gwalchmai is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waywatcher View Post
When I hear hoofbeats, I think horses; not zebras.

Check the strain screw, then the mainspring. This could be as simple as tightening the strain screw.
We know the strike's light, that's how he got that great trigger, and if he puts in a heavier spring it'll make ignition more reliable at the cost of the trigger. Changing ammo may let him have the best of both worlds.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:02 PM
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and has one of the finest trigger pulls I've ever felt in a revolver. = 5 light primer strikes that failed to actuate the primer until I shot them again and that made them work

You can actually make the trigger feel even better if you lower the hammer spring force to get ALL light primer strikes & 0 ignitions.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:26 PM
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Default Light Hits

As you're using factory loads, my guess would be to rule out improperly seated primers. Presuming that your shooting technique is correct, you should try to measure how much force is required to fire the gun double action. Generally, the trigger should be able to lift approximately 12 pounds. If you can't lift that much weight, then the problem lies in the mainspring, the strain screw or both.

And yes, if more than 12 pounds pressure is needed to fire in double action, the fix is to shorten the strain screw in very small increments and keep testing as you go.

Lastly, you may want to check for proper clearance at the cylinder/barrel gap. The cylinder may have to be moved rearward a few thousandths. This is done by stretching the cylinder yoke, a job that should not be attempted by anyone other than an S&W certified armorer.

The problem is: your light hits may be caused by the interaction of several defects working together, rather than simply this or that.
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Old 04-28-2014, 06:06 PM
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FWIW, my standby 'action job' is to replace the trigger return spring with a Wolff. Buy a pack of different weight springs and try them until you find one that's light and still works the trigger return properly.

Very simple and highly effective.

If your main spring tension screw is too short, use an old spent primer cup on the tip to increase length - just to see if it makes a difference. You can even leave it that way forever if you like.
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Old 04-28-2014, 06:31 PM
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The only S&W revolver that I ever had light strike was due to a strain screw out of adjustment, as your first response said.
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Old 04-28-2014, 06:37 PM
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Default People mess with....

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike from st pete View Post
Is the hammer spring strain screw tight? Some think that backing that screw out a bit is a cheap and easy trigger job, it isn't.
Some people mess with the strain screw to lighten the action and then come on here complaining about light primer strikes and what to do about it.
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