what are some do's and dont's when it comes to cleaning a 686+ SS revolver? I use Breakfree CLP to clean my guns and was wondering if there are locations on the 686 where this product should not go?

i recently cleaned the chamber and ejector with CLP and it seems the ejector now rotates slightly preventing me from inserting rounds until i rotate the ejector back in place.

the front of the chamber seems to get very dirty very fast from just one range session. i know birchwood casey lead remover removes the carbon/lead rings but it requires heavy rubbing and takes too long. Is it ok to leave these carbon/lead rings on the front of chamber or will it cause damage in the long run? i dont mind cleaning the chamber cylinders and barrely after every range session but the front of the chamber just takes too long.

thanks.

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-NK

I think it's perfectly OK to leave the front of the cylinder blackened from use. However, I don't like it so I clean it off after every shooting session. Here's how to do it quickly and cheaply. Get some of those long wood handled cotton swabs. I get mine on Amazon shipped for $2. Also get a bottle of Brasso metal cleaner and soak the swab in Brasso and gently rub clean the front of the cylinder. You'll be amazed at how quick and easy it is to remove. I don't use the Brasso on any other area of my 681 and 686s. Other than that, I only use Hoppe's #9 and Remington brand gun oil. A lot of folks like to clean/polish their stainless guns with either Mother's Mag polish or Flitz. This is probably ok to do, but go at it very lightly as these products are fine abrasives and it can be pretty easy to go beyond cleaning enter into the world of high polish, a look that many do not like on stainless steel.

Do: clean it exactly as you would a blued revolver.

Don't: clean the front down to bare metal every time. No need.

Breakfree CLP is good stuff. I use it liberally and wipe off the excess. The firing pin and hole do not need any oil. I scrub the ejector star with an old toothbrush. I clean under the ejector star after that using a Qtip.

I'm not sure what's going on with your ejector, can you elaborate? Also, the ejector rod is left hand threaded; make sure it's tight.

the ejector star rotates very slightly preventing me from putting bullets in the chambers since the extractor part of the ejector star covers too much of the chamber hole. i just have to push the ejector rod and slightly rotate to realign the ejector star (this happens once in a while)..this was never an issue until i cleaned the ejector rod and star with CLP (also i did not fully disassemble the chamber or ejector star..just clean while its all assembled)

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-NK

I use CLP on all my Smiths and have never found it to damage anything. This includes: blue, stainless, aluminum alloy guns, plastic sight inserts, wood grips, and neoprene grips. I don't have any Ti or Sc guns, but I doubt it would bother those either.

I also use a tooth brush on the front of the cylinder. I don't worry about getting back to bare metal every time. After awhile, the carbon build-up seems to reach an equilibrium point where it never gets worse or better. Once in a blue moon (every couple of years) I'll use some Crest toothpaste to clean it back to bare metal. Love that minty taste.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

I fully understand the "keep it clean" thing. Heck, I even clean between the top of the forcing cone - & the top strap. Obsessively cleaning the carbon rings - from the front of the cylinder is though, IMHO, just not necessary.

I'd even go as far as to say that it can cause more functional problems - then it solves. Depending on the cleaning materials used (abrasives?), it could conceivably increase the barrel cylinder gap, or worse yet - & more likely, bevel the front edge of the cylinder throats.

Just my $0.02...

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Regards - GCF

do you apply CLP on ALL parts of the gun? including firing pin, hammer, chamber notch, ejector star, ejector rod?

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-NK

I use CLP, & Gunzilla (CLP) also. I always leave traces of it on my guns. After I handle them, I just take a soft rag, wipe them and put away. Many cleaners have abrasives in them. Use sparingly! Bob

Yes, everywhere. I get my old tooth brush wet with CLP and go to town on everything. And like bananaman, I then wipe most of it off with an soft rag (old tee shirt). What remains is enough to keep the surfaces protected. As far as squirting lube inside the revolver I do this only occasionally. Maybe a couple of drops once or twice a year.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

My wife found a Shaklee product made for removing burned crud off of kitchen metals (copper/stainless) and it melts the scorch marks right off with very little rubbing.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

When I clean my 686, or any gun, I use Gun Scrubber, Hoppes, sometimes Break Free, a toothbrush, the usual rods and brushes, I get the excess gunk off but I probably never try to get down to the metal on the front of the cylinder. I agree with Waywatcher - I clean them all the same way. When I clean them - which is not after every range session for any gun. I'm not a fanatic about it. I used to be a fanatic about it but I got over it. Some folks agree with me, a lot don't - YMMV. One thing that's important to me, however, is that I do not spend too much range time with non-jacketed ammunition - if I do, then I am a fanatic, because leading drives me crazy. Lead ammo is filthy stuff as far as I am concerned. But that's a whole other discussion.

***GRJ***

I use this stuff,



It takes those cylinder face rings right off. I probably use it after every other trip to the range. Is this product removing the metal? As you can see, the cloth turns black afterwards just like a metal polish does.