What is the general thinking on the safest and most effective way to clean the titanium cylinders without risking damage to the coating?

I'm guessing Flitz is out? I can live with the burn marks on the front of the cylinder, but wouldn't mind cleaning them up as best as I can without risking damage. Thanks!

Whoa! Yeah, Flitz is definitely out. Anything remotely abrasive is out too.

I use Breakfree CLP for all my gun cleaning and lubing, with flannel patches cut from fabric store cloth. It works well. Being a cleaner and a lubricant really seems to help prevent buildup of carbon and crud. I don't currently own any Ti guns but I do own stainless, matte blue, polished blue, parkerized, etc.

As I just posted elsewhere, I use Hoppe's. Period. As Waywatcher just posted, I have been using "custom" flannel patches cut from material for decades.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I have 2 with ti cylinders. A 340pd & 337ti (both no ILS) & I have used only mpro-7 but I would like to know if hoppes is OK to use so the coating on the cylinders stays in tact.

I sure wouldn't use Hoppes #9 on any recent production S&W (other than stainless).

Too many horror stories about finish being removed--the S&W manual now even says to not use "Ammoniated cleaning solvents," (Hoppes contains ammonium hydroxide.)

I use M Pro 7 Gun Cleaner and Oil. I use a nylon brush on the Ti.

Ouch! Is this true? I've used Hoppes #9 on every gun I own since the 60's.

That doesn't mean you're wrong, and I'm always open to being corrected. I'm just surprised to hear since Hoppes #9 and I go way back with no ill effects. In fact, I just stocked up on it.

I've also heard that CLP (which I do like and use also as a quick method) and the all-in-one solutions are a compromise, not doing any single thing very well.

My 'old' way was to Hoppes #9 solvent the gunk out of the bore and cylinder holes. Wipe off excess powder, lead with #9. Dry it off, then, coat with a light oil.

__________________
Best Regards,
Mark

See page 29 of the S&W Revolver manual, about cleaning: http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...4_757812_image

It says "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any S&W firearm."

The MSDS for Hoppe's #9 lists Ammonium Hydroxide, which obviously makes Hoppe's an Ammoniated solvent, and is also a strong alkaline.

Edit to add: recent thread Huge mistake with new 57!!

Ditto.
Be gentle with that finish. Nylon bristles, M Pro-7.
Don't fuss over the burn rings, just clean 'em enough that they don't get heaped up enough to contact the forcing cone.