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10-10-2014, 10:02 AM
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Cleaning Titanium Cylinders
What is the general thinking on the safest and most effective way to clean the titanium cylinders without risking damage to the coating?
I'm guessing Flitz is out? I can live with the burn marks on the front of the cylinder, but wouldn't mind cleaning them up as best as I can without risking damage. Thanks!
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10-10-2014, 10:14 AM
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Whoa! Yeah, Flitz is definitely out. Anything remotely abrasive is out too.
I use Breakfree CLP for all my gun cleaning and lubing, with flannel patches cut from fabric store cloth. It works well. Being a cleaner and a lubricant really seems to help prevent buildup of carbon and crud. I don't currently own any Ti guns but I do own stainless, matte blue, polished blue, parkerized, etc.
Last edited by Waywatcher; 10-10-2014 at 10:15 AM.
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10-10-2014, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waywatcher
Whoa! Yeah, Flitz is definitely out. Anything remotely abrasive is out too.
I use Breakfree CLP for all my gun cleaning and lubing, with flannel patches cut from fabric store cloth. It works well. Being a cleaner and a lubricant really seems to help prevent buildup of carbon and crud. I don't currently own any Ti guns but I do own stainless, matte blue, polished blue, parkerized, etc.
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As I just posted elsewhere, I use Hoppe's. Period. As Waywatcher just posted, I have been using "custom" flannel patches cut from material for decades.
Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
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10-10-2014, 10:51 AM
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I have 2 with ti cylinders. A 340pd & 337ti (both no ILS) & I have used only mpro-7 but I would like to know if hoppes is OK to use so the coating on the cylinders stays in tact.
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10-10-2014, 11:18 AM
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I sure wouldn't use Hoppes #9 on any recent production S&W (other than stainless).
Too many horror stories about finish being removed--the S&W manual now even says to not use "Ammoniated cleaning solvents," (Hoppes contains ammonium hydroxide.)
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10-10-2014, 11:28 AM
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I use M Pro 7 Gun Cleaner and Oil. I use a nylon brush on the Ti.
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10-10-2014, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waywatcher
I sure wouldn't use Hoppes #9 on any recent production S&W (other than stainless).
Too many horror stories about finish being removed--the S&W manual now even says to not use "Ammoniated cleaning solvents," (Hoppes contains ammonium hydroxide.)
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Ouch! Is this true? I've used Hoppes #9 on every gun I own since the 60's.
That doesn't mean you're wrong, and I'm always open to being corrected. I'm just surprised to hear since Hoppes #9 and I go way back with no ill effects. In fact, I just stocked up on it.
I've also heard that CLP (which I do like and use also as a quick method) and the all-in-one solutions are a compromise, not doing any single thing very well.
My 'old' way was to Hoppes #9 solvent the gunk out of the bore and cylinder holes. Wipe off excess powder, lead with #9. Dry it off, then, coat with a light oil.
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Best Regards,
Mark
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10-10-2014, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkAlt
Ouch! Is this true? I've used Hoppes #9 on every gun I own since the 60's.
That doesn't mean you're wrong, and I'm always open to being corrected. I'm just surprised to hear since Hoppes #9 and I go way back with no ill effects. In fact, I just stocked up on it.
I've also heard that CLP (which I do like and use also as a quick method) and the all-in-one solutions are a compromise, not doing any single thing very well.
My 'old' way was to Hoppes #9 solvent the gunk out of the bore and cylinder holes. Wipe off excess powder, lead with #9. Dry it off, then, coat with a light oil.
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See page 29 of the S&W Revolver manual, about cleaning: http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...4_757812_image
It says "Ammoniated solvents or other strong alkaline solvents, should not be used on any S&W firearm."
The MSDS for Hoppe's #9 lists Ammonium Hydroxide, which obviously makes Hoppe's an Ammoniated solvent, and is also a strong alkaline.
Edit to add: recent thread Huge mistake with new 57!!
Last edited by Waywatcher; 10-10-2014 at 12:10 PM.
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10-10-2014, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgewalker
I use M Pro 7 Gun Cleaner and Oil. I use a nylon brush on the Ti.
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Ditto.
Be gentle with that finish. Nylon bristles, M Pro-7.
Don't fuss over the burn rings, just clean 'em enough that they don't get heaped up enough to contact the forcing cone.
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