I now have J and N frame Scandium Alloy Smiths with Black Matte finish.

Just found out that Hoppes #9 is not good for this finish ...and the blued 'Classics'. Understood that #9 is a bore cleaner, but it still gets on the finish. I now noticed Hoppes synthetic and Elite.

Already have some Blast and CLP on hand, but wondering what the consensus is to protect this finish?

Does Renaissance wax seal it up and protect? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

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Best Regards,
Mark

How is it supposed to affect these finishes? I haven't heard this. I have a matte finish 25-7 that gets regularly wiped down and cleaned with Hoppe's. Haven't noticed any adverse effects at all in almost two years. And I've never waxed a gun in my life, either.

Well, I'm with you on this. In the last 45 years, I've cleaned my guns the same way and never thought twice about it.

Then, I start reading things on this 'internet' and all of a sudden stories, photos and even the Smith manual itself warns against using the exact agents found in Hoppes #9 for their modern blued and matte guns. Not sure when 'modern' started.

So, I just stocked up on my 'old fashioned' cleaners and wonder if they're only good for my classic (not Classic) Smiths.

Regarding the Ren wax; I use it mostly as a sealant to the safe queens.

I'm as perplexed as you since Smith seems to concur. Open to thoughts and opinions.

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Best Regards,
Mark

There was a long thread here a few months back with the gobsmacking news that Hoppes 9 will seriously damage current S&W blue.

Lotta discussion, as you might imagine. Run a search.

That being said, it was never confirmed to my satisfaction.

Either way, I've gotten Hoppes 9 all over a current blue J aluminum frame to no ill-effect.

Still using #9 on polymer, blued, stainless, aluminum, no issues so far. Started in 1979.

I recently tried M-Pro 7, don't care for it. Doesn't clean well for me. I use it as a "pre soak" just to use it up. Hasn't removed a thing. I got off topic. Hoppes is still working for me.

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Criminals don't register guns.

I use Hoppes on the AirLite 351c with no ill effects. I thought the finish on these was just paint. The cylinder face came from the factory "unpainted" alloy and the rest was matte black.

I have owned a few matt black finished Smiths and always would wipe them down with hoppes and sometimes even used Flitz and then ren wax, never had an issue. Just do not apply a lot of pressue when wiping with hoppes 9 or Flitz and you will be fine.

Eric

I've had great luck using Breakfree CLP on my recent production matte blued 442.

It really does clean, lubricate, and protect to my satisfaction. I use it on every single gun I own--from my 442 to my AR15 to my Winchester M70. Never had a problem. I highly recommend it because it is proven, effective, safe, available, and cheap (in bulk at least--I bought a gallon a few years ago and the price-per-ounce was around $0.50)

I've read the S&W recommends BreakFree on their 442 - so that's what I used on it, my M49 and my 438. Haven't had any trouble with it.

Jim, you've never put a coat of wax on any of your firearms. I'll bet you can't say that about all that nice leather gear you have

Maybe I'm just weird about some/many things

S&W owners manual states not to use ammoniated or strong alkaline cleaners.

Correct! And Hoppe's #9 contains Ammonium Hydroxide; a strong alkaline (which also, obviously, makes Hoppe's ammoniated.)

Use the Elite and you'll be just fine.

Bob

No, I really haven't. The only "protectant" I've ever used on my guns is WD40.

Well, Old Bear...actually I can. I guess I'm old fashioned or behind the times or maybe just a Luddite, but all I've ever done to any of my holsters and/or belts is a brushing with a soft brush (like a paint brush) to remove any grit, followed by a very light cleaning with saddle soap. Sometimes I'll blow out the inside of my holsters, but that's about it as far as leather care goes.

Use a water based cleaner like SLIP. Hoppe's was good for a time period that is now gone. It is extremely hard on your lungs and easily absorbed through your skin, presenting risks that are not worth it. I use medical gloves (cheap ones, not the good Bloodborne Pathogens stuff), and have for years, and also gave up on the harsh cleaners years ago. Potential cosmetic damage to your guns is about the least important reason to give up on those older harsh cleaners.

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NHI, 10-8.

Tomato jucie will ruin bluing, but I Love to drink it (homemade of coruse) Regards

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Rimfires Makes me "Insane"

Why anybody still uses Hoppes just because it was great-granddads favorite is beyond me.
So many better SAFE products available.
MPro7, Kroil, CLP, Eezox to name just a few that I have used on my Scandium revolvers with no ill effects.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

I recently started a thread about Hoppe's in the gunsmithing section. Varying opinions on my question about it's use on a blued model 17.

I cleaned a duty model 19 for years but we also did not spend a lot of time worrying about the finish on the gun. In that a fella posted a link to the thread that was kind of mentioned here. The person ruined the blued finish on a more modern Smith.

This is the link that was put in for the issue with newer blued guns.

Huge mistake with new 57!!