Hey all,

I got this m60 brand new in July, and have put about 300 rounds through it total, including a handful of Magnums. Yesterday though while shooting in the desert the trigger locked back, and cylinder locked up tight, but the hammer could still move and had tension. What did I do? I am so sad because I bought an SP101 and sold it to get a 686 2.5", which then I sold because I found this (my dream revolver).Also, I do CC it everyday, but I don't see how that could have an effect. I am going to take it to a gunsmith on Monday, but thought I'd reach out to you all first.

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Still just a kid at heart

Did the internal lock come on? Try one of the keys that came with the gun and see if you can unlock it.

Probably not the problem, but it costs nothing to try.

Dave

I'm guessing the pin the trigger or hammer rides on has snapped off. Did you take the side plate off and peek in there?

I think TNDave is on the right track.

I've heard of others breaking a trigger pin and locking up.

I'd also recommend popping the side plate off--but you need hollow ground screwdriver bits that fit. Also, don't pry--rap the butt of the gun with the screwdriver handle after the screws are removed. It will jar itself loose in short order.

Or, since it's a new gun, you could send it back to the factory and have it fixed under warranty.

The time I did that with my new M60, it took about a month total.

Dave

Very good advice!

If this gun is locked up and still has live ammo in the cylinder, I wouldn't be sending it anywhere.
Could you describe the situation more thoroughly?

Can you open the cylinder? Did a bullet (or bullets) jump crimp? I have had that happen to my M&P340.

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-Roger

Looked at the lock, it's not the lock. No live ammo in the cylinder, because after wiggling the hammer and trigger a lot I was able to finally get it open. Side plate will be my next stop tonight after dinner, but I think I will be sending it in to S&W either way, since it is brand spanking new.

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Still just a kid at heart

I've been reading about J frames with the trigger pins or hammer pins breaking. Is this a common problem with the J frame revolvers?

Good of you to mention not to pry off the slide plate!

I got the side plate off, nothing looked amiss as far as I could tell so the plot has thickened! It makes me sad I didn't just keep my 686 2.5" though.

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Still just a kid at heart

Most of us have done the regrettable trade.
Does it function normally now (sans bullets)?

Update: my parents new neighbor, is a gun smith! He took a look at it, and determined that all it was, was a screw that was too tight. He complained about red lock tight and something something...but now it works just fine!

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Still just a kid at heart

WHICH screw?

I would have to agree with that. Especially if you are going to be shooting 357s. My 686PC 2.5" is one of my favorite revolvers, and that says a lot because I have some really cool revolvers. It's actually riding on my hip right now. Even though I have much lighter versions of this gun (386PD and 386 Night Guard), I love to carry my 686PC.

I have to send the cylinders on my 386PD and 386NG off to be cut for moon clips, so my 686PC and my incoming 586 L Comp are going to be seeing a lot of carry time the next few weeks.


I'm just not a big fan of 357 J Frames steel or alloy versions. Love 38 Js though.

HarrishMasher and I agree on this point. But those .357 Js will digest .38s all day long.

We agree on this, too:

I keep mine (it's not a PC but it is a +) by my bed at night. I have carried it afield but I find it a bit too bulky for EDC. It IS a wonderful gun. I find carrying snubby K frames much easier; a 2.5" M19 works if I want to load more powerful cartridges.

Okay, enough thread stealing, I'll quit it............

***GRJ***

This one circled, still don't have the actual gun back because my neighbor opened it back up to show me and (because springs are air soluble) a spring disappeared and we're waiting for a new one.

Attached Images

m60upload.jpg (26.7 KB, 100 views)

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Still just a kid at heart

And you say the new neighbor is a "gunsmith?" And a spring disappeared? Were it me, I might re-think his "diagnosis" and send it to S&W for a complete check-up, as I would have lost confidence in the gunsmith's ability to get it taken apart and put back together properly. Sorry to say that, but springs just don't normally "disappear" with a real gunsmith. Admittedly, accidents happen, but still. . . .

That's what I was thinking...

Yes, I agree. That diagnosis (a too-tight screw) seems odd. I've had many Smith revolvers over the years, some with REALLY tight screws, and that never happened.



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That screw was a fitted screw, but has been changed to one with a spring loaded insert to engage the yoke.

Often that screw gets swapped with the one to the left, which was part of the motivation to change it. I had some work done recently on a Model 60 and sure enough the smith swapped the screws, and I had issues opening the cylinder, till I swapped them back to their correct location. When I open them up I keep that screw separate.

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SWCA #2817

If you take the side plate off and pull the trigger repeatedly a spring will come out, I was watching when it happened lol it may have caused him to be distracted.

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Still just a kid at heart

Thanks. Now that I know, I'm not sure why I asked, because I have no idea what that screw does!

Big plastic bags are the gun plumbers friend. Nick

Get that piece back to S&W ASAP! Too many mechanics masquerading as gunsmiths. I know many Forum members hate when I say this. That screw simply holds the cylinder and crane in place, and it should not be Loc-Tited.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

That screw should be tight! Did you fully examine the trigger stud? I had one snap on me this year and Smith replaced the gun. I've also had something like this happen on a 686, but that was caused when I hit the locking mechanism inside the gun with a cu-tip while cleaning around the hammer.

At this point, I'd send it back to S&W for a check up. My original thought was that the ejector rod had loosened, but what you describe is not quite what I've experienced with Model 60s in the past when that happened.

I think your gunsmith has dubious qualifications, at best.

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Can open, worms everywhere.

Yes, pulling the trigger repeatedly with the side plate off will cause the parts to ride up on their studs, but again, a qualified S&W armorer or a gunsmith knows this and pushes the parts back down flush. That said, pulling the trigger repeatedly without the side plate on is not the greatest practice in the world either as the studs on which the hammer and trigger ride are designed to supported on BOTH sides when operating the action. This requires the side plate to be on the revolver. Again, a qualified gunsmith or armorer would know this. I have seen some armorers run the action for a final test prior to putting the side plate back on after finishing a job, and undoubtedly, doing it occasionally will probably not hurt, but it is still not the greatest idea. I would emphasize that I have NEVER seen an armorer run the action so much that springs start popping out.