I have a brand new 686.first time at the range today,after about 12 rounds,I could not spin the cylinder.after much pounding!I discovered a protrusion in the firing pin hole.The revolver is now inoperable.the protrusion can be forced into the hole,but immediatly protrudes again when firing.the gun is brand new,and will go back to factory,but I am very disappointed,and courious.

Welcome to the forums and sorry to hear you having problems with a brand new pistol. I don't own any S&W revolver that has the in-frame floating firing pin, but rather have older ones that have the firing pin mounted to the hammer. But it sounds to me like something broke internally and is leaving the firing pin poking out of the hole in the recoil shield. And yes, contact S&W and get them to send a call tag to you to fix their screwed up pistol. I've heard they are pretty quick on fixing most problems. If you read a few pages of this forum you will see that you aren't the only one getting broken revolvers from the factory. Seems the S&W quality control isn't what it used to be.

Yep, it's quality control...or maybe it's just that they are selling more than ever and there are more ways of finding out about problems than ever. The "good old days" weren't perfect either.

I'm sorry to hear the OP had a problem with a new gun...very disappointing and frustrating...not sure why the complaint came here, but to the credit of S&W they will take care if it in good fashion. Let us know how it goes and if you hang around I think you'll find this a very informative and fun forum.

Sorry if I posted in the wrong place,new to forum,but not S&W revolvers.I'm retired LE,had many Smiths in the 70s and 80s,the quality control got so bad I swore off of em when the world went to autos.now I thought I would try one again,and this happens.don't get me wrong,I've always loved smiths,just get real FRUSTRATTED when I have an issue with a brand new gun.were should I have posted.

The frame mounted firing pin (38) is retracted by a rather small spring (37) in the circular channel ahead of the thicker part of the firing pin.

Sometimes a little lubrication gets into the channel and fouls up the action as it mixes with a little powder residue. This makes the pin stick. At least it did for me when I foolishly over lubricated my first new J-frame.

Mine only required cleaning this area and subsequent restraint while lubricating, but that did require removing the sideplate. Your issue may be different and a trip back to the good folks at S&W is usually a sure cure for any ailment, not to mention a better choice than removing the sideplate to correct the problem yourself if you haven't mastered that technique.

We are fortunate S&W takes such good care of us.

You posted fine and with the bit of background I give your post more weight. Sorry your experiences have been bad...mine have been the opposite with many Smiths made from early 70's to current although I don't have the LE perspective you have. Hope Smith makes you happy with the 686 and thanks for the years of LE service.

Actually,Smiths are the only revolvers I would buy.I have always felt they were way beyond anything else made(possible exception being the Python)it juses gets a little frustrating when they are less than perfect.the only real issues I had back in the day,was the sights had to be adjusted way left or right to zero.our armour always offered to bend the barrel to zero them,but I just didn't feel right about doing that.when my dept went to autos I was happy as I carried a 1911 in the Marines (70 to 73)but now that I'm retired,and want a revolver again,A S&W is the only way I'll go.just not happy about having to send it back.no big deal.

Did you do any dry firing before taking it to the range? If you did a lot of dry firing without using snap caps there is a potential for the firing pin return spring to get damaged. Another possibility is a small bit of misplaced powder residue, which can happen to even a perfectly manufactured revolver.

As for repairing this, with proper knowledge and technique this is about a 5 minute repair process. All you have to do is remove the side plate, lift out the firing pin retaining pin with some tweezers and then use those tweezers and a dental pick to remove the firing pin and return spring. Then it's simply a matter of reversing the process while installing a new spring or cleaning out the channel.

Tips, if you decide to fix this yourself.

1) Properly fitted screwdriver is essential unless you are fond of buggered up sideplate screws on a brand new revolver.

2) Tap the side plate free by lightly tapping the grip frame with the plastic handle of a screw driver.

3) For a first timer getting the hammer block safety in it's correct position will present the most challenge. The first time I did it it took me 45 minutes to get the hammer block positioned correctly and the side plate into it's recess. So, don't force it if you get frustrated, take your time and you'll get it.

4) The hammer block is installed in the UP position with the tab between the lower part of the hammer striking face and the frame. The slotted end goes on the pin on the rebound slide with the pin at the end of the slot towards the rear of the revolver.

5) Start the sideplate into the recess by slipping the tab at the top into the frame recess and next the end under the cylinder by the yoke screw. Once you have these two points engaged in the frame recess it should be a simple matter of pressing the sideplate almost all the way home with some firm thumb pressure. PROVIDED THAT HAMMER BLOCK DIDN'T GET DISLODGED OUT OF POSITION WHILE YOU WERE GETTING THE SIDEPLATE STARTED. I wasn't kidding about it taking me 45 minutes the first time. Not bumping that hammer block while getting the sideplate is a skill that is a matter of trial and error for most of us. Good news is once you get it, it's sort of like riding a bicycle, something you just don't forget how to do. So, if you can't press the sideplate home with thumb pressure, don't reach for a hammer, just start over and try again until you "get it".

Finally sources for parts and tools. My favorite Go To for these items is Brownell's but they are currently moving into a new building, so shipping is really bogged down. Next in line for S&W parts is Numrich's and they are pretty good about getting parts out quickly IF THE PART IS IN STOCK. Third possibility is a simple phone call to Smith & Wesson. Because your saving them the cost of a warranty fix and shipping they will probably ship you a new spring and firing pin if you simply explain your problem and ask for the parts.

I get it on sending a new gun back...PITA. I have a fist full of L frames between 586's and a lone 686. All have been marvelous. As for the sights I find that in all guns I tend to shoot left...just the way my old eyes see things, or fail to!

I'm wagering you carried a model 19 back in the day? Maybe a 66 or a 28. I agree the Python is a fine firearm but I don't think it's better than a Smith...perhaps a bit smoother action but not as good a trigger overall IMHO...but it is as good lookin' as revolvers get. All said and done I'll stick with my 586's.

Smith should turn your 686 around in a couple of weeks or maybe three and we'll expect a follow up report at that time with pictures! Meanwhile here's a favorite pick of a couple of mine...a 586 and a 66. Cheers!

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I have pulled a few side plates on smiths,I've also buggered up a few frames by dropping the hammer on the exposed frame when side plate was off.I did dry fire the gun a lot befor the range,so this is probably my fault,never had a problem dry firing,but it seems there is always a first time.anyway,thanks for the help.always browsed a lot on the forum,never felts the need to join,now that I have I'm sure I'll be back,especially since I bought the wrong grips for my gun,(bought square,needed round) now I have to buy a new gun to fit my grips.thanks again.

I like your style, sir!

Thanks Tuscon,and 1961,it was a pair of model 19s that I had the issues with.amazing how much knowledge is stored in the members of this forum.I am able to work the firing pin back and forth now.I'll go to the hardware store later today and get the right size screwdriver,I had a housefire in July and lost everything,so every time I turn around I have to go get new stuff,anyway,I'm sure I can pull the sideplate(carefully)and at least see if it's just a small spring issue.hate to send my new kid away for the holidays if I don't have to.Tnks again.