What is the best way to remove this tiny rust spot on my blued 586 L Comp? It is the only spot on the whole gun. I had a local smith replace the front sight and that spot appeared since I got it back.



As always, thanks in advance for the help

Tiny rust remover.
Sorry, couldn't stop myself.

Seriously, I have an 88 year old rifle that had small rust spots. I put gun oil on the spots then wiped the oil off with my finger then dabbing the oil off with a rag. Repeat until no more rust seems to come off. I did this to prevent rubbing the displaced rust on the surrounding surface.
Then I put oil on the spots again and gently rubbed with aluminum foil. A hint of discoloration remained due to the age of the rust.
Do some research on other methods as I'm sure there are those wiser and more skilled than I.
However this worked for me. Good luck.

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Music/Sports/Beer fan

I use a product called " Blue Wonder" with some 0000 steel wool and it works well. Many will say use bronze wool because it is less likely to scratch the finish, but I've had no problem with the steel. The edge of a real copper penny can also be used. Good luck.

0000 Bronze Wool (available at West Marine) and oil. Cover the area with oil, and lightly rub with the bronze wool. Wont harm the finish.

0000 steel or bronze wool and some gun oil, with very little pressure applied.

Remember, after removing the surface rust, the microscopic pits under the stain will still be there. After removing the rust on the surface, it would be good to cover the area with something that will not injure the steel or finish, but keep the surface area as anaerobic as possible. I use a thin layer beeswax.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I use 0000 steel wool and a drop of gun oil.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

And I thought "anaerobic" only applied to bacteria. You learn something every day if you're lucky and you listen.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

This is the method I have found to work, but I use plenty of oil to make sure I won't damage the blue.
It works even on the high gloss Smith & Wesson blue without any damage to blue.

X4 or more, I lost count. The hardest part is you'll have to buy a pack of 0000 steel wool that would last all of us a lifetime.

I use the 'copper scrubber' as sold by the kitchen dept. at the store. Will not damage the finish and is also excellent for removing leading; wrapped around a worn patch it will remove leading in a few passes.

Jerry

OP Here:
I went with the finest steel wool they had at Home Depot and a little CLP. They didn't have bronze wool. Worked like a charm.


BEFORE



AFTER

Excellent. Wipe 'er down with a drop of oil periodically and the rust should keep away.

Will do. I take very good care of all of my guns. Maintenance is a top priority. I like to keep my guns in top shape.

I have a similar spot on my 29-6. I hope you don't mind me piggybacking on your thread. I'm not sure if its rust or a nick. I Tried steel wool and oil, but didn't want to go too hard and ruin the finish. Here's what it looks like.

Simi-chrome polish. Do a stainless gun first then use the used polish on the soft rag to try on the blue. Go lightly but if the bluing around it is good it should come out ok.

I took a S&W revolver with a very slight freckling to a 99.99% condition revolver. I not only did it once but did it twice. They look brand new.

One of my used colt officers target revolvers I removed the outside putting then cold blued it. It's an art to cold blue and blend it in but it can be done with the right process. Some depending on how deep the pitting is you can't tell it's been done.

Cold blushing application.

Clean the area with rubbing alcohol. Till it's squeaky clean. wipe it dry completely. Let it air dry more and wipe again. Be sure the area is clean and dry. The quality of the outcome depends on the quality of your prep. Setup a few q tips, your open can of cold bluing, a soft rag and some 0000 steelwool. Take a hair dryer and heat the area to be reblued. Now apply the q tip with the bluing.
If the bluing doesn't take use the 0000 Steelwool and lightly burnish the bluing into the area. Let the new bluing liquid sit there. It will dry quickly with the heated area. Reheat and reapply till the new bluing color is matching to the original color. It will look dull at first. But apply enough bluing. A little extra won't hurt because the last stage is polishing it lightly.

It's not sticking out like a asphalt patch in the road but it will blend in and look better. Some cold bluing treatments are lighter or darker than others.

If the area to be reblued is near a trigger remove the trigger.

Hit it lightly with some Simi chrome polish.