How Can I Prevent Rust on a Beater 10-8?

[103]

I recently picked up a shooter 10-8 in trade. Perfect bore and solid action. I enjoy shooting heavy barrels. But as you’ll see it has very little finish left. Is there a wax or something I can apply to mitigate rust?

It’s also a candidate for a refinish since you can’t any signs of rust or pitting.

[kamloops67]

Gun oil ought to be enough , I don’t think I’d reblue it either I’d call that a “pleasing patina” and leave it

[starlord]

Wipe it down everyday - and leave a light coating of oil on it ( rig #2 oil is my preference - but any oil - Rem oil, etc - works. Internally keep the gun clean & properly lubed - and I would inspect it daily ...if it was damp at all....

[103]

Oil makes sense. My issue is that I live in Florida, so I’m fighting 100% humidity most days.

[azhobo]

I've got a 36 no dash just like that. Mine spent about 6 weeks laying on the bottom of the Chesapeake Bay, after a Fish & Game marine arrest turned into a struggle. (not me, a longtime friend) It has no rust, no pitting anywhere. About every month I clean it using engine degreaser, then scrub it in a plastic pan using Dawn detergent and hot water. It gets rinsed well, then goes outside to dry in the sun. When it's good and hot, after about two hours (AZ) I push a little Rem oil into the workings and wipe down the outside carefully with Kroil. I've had it since the mid 80's and took those steps right from the git go. It's always worked very well, shows basically no internal wear, and has never had a speck of rust.
I also have an older Walther PPKS in about the same shape. I've only had it a couple years, and it gets exactly the same devoted care, with equal results.
As already pointed out, a little gun oil works wonders on guns.
And, FWIW I have to agree, leave it alone. Guns are much like old people, the nicks and bruises over the years give character!
I don't have any new model guns of any kind, and it's my opinion that most all makers used to build high quality products that stood the tests of time.
Best regards,
Bob

[walkinghorse]

Be sure to remove the rubber grips, clean and oil the metal underneath the grip area frequently. Corrosion and rust are noted to occur underneath the rubber

[Laketime]

You can use gun wax on it, or the one time I would use Johnsons paste wax

[pantannojack]

Some people emit an acid sweat from their hands, so when I rarely let someone else touch my treasures, I wipe them with light coat of clp. I never have trouble. Only 23% of my precious's are stainless.

[bdGreen]

RIG on the outside.

CorrosionX on the inside.

Works, like, forever. Ha.

bdGreen

[yugolovr]

When I carried a blued gun. I would wipe the outside of the gun with a rig rag every night. Every few weeks I would wax it with some natural car wax. It always worked for me.

[mod29]

Originally Posted by 103

...It’s also a candidate for a refinish since you can’t any signs of rust or pitting...

I like the way it looks, no chance I would refinish that revolver.
Wipe it down with a lightly oiled rag after handling, that'll keep it from rusting.

[raisedin99]

Keep a couple rifles out in the shop just to grab and go.

A Marlin 60 with a tube full of golden bullets as well as a
Lithgow no1 mk 3 with 10 core lokt 303's.

Neither of these two rifles have ever been oiled by me, I apply
Johnson's paste wax to my hands and literally smear it on the
rifles and
set them aside to dry after which they look terible but I'm
satisfied they are protected and I've never seen a spot of
corrosion on them, on occasion I'll take a clean rag to buff the
wax off just to see what they really look like an once satisfied
I repeat the process.

It works for me,,,

terry

[mauser9]

Wipe down with Breakfree CLP.

[smoothshooter]

I have had good luck with very light coats of Break Free CLP for over 45 years, reapplied occasionally.
Diluted Ballistol sometimes over the last 15 years has been good too.
Lots of good oils out there.
The main thing is to use SOMETHING.

[STORMINORMAN]

Well, hickok45 would probably just recommend Ballistol...? So I will!

Cheers!

[jtcarm]

Food-grade mineral oil.

[Heinz]

You might try Behlens Blue wax, Very similar to Renaissance wax at about the same price for a pound of Behlen that you pay for 3 oz of Renaissance.
Renaissance is also a great rust preventative.

[103]

I appreciate the advice. I have a lot of ballistol for black powder shooting, so I’ll try rubbing it down with that. And I definitely pull the grips to oil it.

I really do like the look of the gun. I was only considering a rebluing half-heartedly. Shot it yesterday with some 158 grain, and it is of course spot on. Now I need to find some FBI loads and carry it.

[DGNY]

That certainly is a handsome 10–8. As to the suggestions above, I think them helpful. Like so many, I’ve used CLP and similar for years. A couple of seasons ago, I started to use Hornady One Shot cleaner and lube. It is really slick and though a bit expensive, it seems to excel. E.g., it truly slicked up the bolt on a balky Mosin Nagant M 44. And, of course, no rust, corrosion or discoloration.

It was well regarded in a detailed test of multiple products (available by Internet search mentioning Hornady one shot and, say, frog lube) a good read for those with some spare time.


Wishing you all best and many happy range outings and other opportunities for your 10–8.

[Narragansett]

You do not say where you are from, but I have used Kelloggs Professional products (from Sandusky Ohio) pure silicone since 1968. Never had a spot of rust. Treat a 6" square of real lambs wool and wipe gun down. Lambs wool, because the pile gets into all crevices. Look in hardware stores for it

[Alk8944]

Exactly like a new gun,keep it clean, dry, and oiled. There are many products to accomplish this. Or you could spray paint it

[Invictus357]

Ballistol!

After decades of Hoppes, all kinds of lubes, I just use Ballistol now.

Wish I'd discovered it 40 years ago.

[CHARLIE699]

That age, that amount of finish wear, and NO rust or pitting? I would say that is a great candidate for a satin finish hard chrome. If a daily carry revolver, it will resist the elements better. Something to leave in your glovebox where it won't be exposed?,, you may stay with the constant oil regimen.
It depends of course, on just how much you have invested in revolver. Given your location, it will hold up great. It would be the last refinish you would ever need.
If you are just going to send it down the road soon, oil & repeat.

[gwpercle]

Wax ... wax stays put longer . Birchwood Casey's Sheath , which may be called Barricade is made just for long term protection . To me it seems to be a spray on containing wax's and the carrier evaporates leaving a wax coating ... I have also used automotive paste waxes and good pure Carnauba Paste Wax ... like Mothers Gold ... works extremely well .
The Birchwood Casey Sheath or Barricade (whatever it's called) is in theory , made for firearms and better .
What I like about these wax products is the surface doesn't attract dust or lint , non oily surface and the wax layer stays there , even after handling and wiping down the gun ... as a bonus ...like your car ...the wax makes your gun Look Good !
Old School Wax Job has a lot going for it .
Gary

[jcs266]

Originally Posted by Invictus357

Ballistol!

After decades of Hoppes, all kinds of lubes, I just use Ballistol now.

Wish I'd discovered it 40 years ago.

Same here, Anymore Ballistol is what I use for all my guns.

[chief38]

Break free CLP should work fine and in the event you need something on the next level, Rig Universal Grease is the best. Just keep treated cotton flannel rag in a zip lock bag and wipe it down after shooting or handling it.