The no-lock M&P 340's are becoming available now and I just got this one tonight to replace my 638 as my regular pocket carry.

What are some good .357 loads somewhere on the order of +P+? I have plenty of cases, Power Pistol, Bullseye and Unique. The only jacketed bullets I have on hand right now are 125 grain Sierra hollow points. I was thinking maybe seven grains of PP or 7.5 of Unique.

This is one stealthy little pocket revolver with a nice Tritium lamp in the front sight and a dull black finish. Weighing just over 13 ounces, I'm not even going try a 125 grain duty load.

What are the lightest .357 commercial loads for carry? I have +P .38's, but would like to try going a little higher. Maybe using a 110 grain. There doesn't seem to be any minimum safe bullet weight for this like the Titanium-cylinder guns and their occasional unseating problem.

I'd also just like to learn the experience of others with this hard hitting little j frame.

Attached Images

m&p340.jpg (53.9 KB, 78 views)

The 340 m&p can have crimp jump also. There was a thread on this not too long ago. A hot load can unseat the bullet in any ultra light gun if not crimped tightly. I have never had the problem (yet) shooting 125g 357mag cor-bon in my 340pd (no lock).

I'll be sure to keep the crimp in spec. The Sierras I have now don't have a cannelure, but if I keep the load more toward.38+P, won't I be safe?

I don't reload (wish I did) but I would think a normal or 38 +p would not cause a problem. I have only read of 357 mag loads jumping.

I have yet to have any crimp jump with my M&P 340.

The recoil is less than I was expecting with full-house 125 Magnum loads. I haven't and, wont use 110gr. magnums in it.(Yeah, I know, the M&P doesn't have the "restriction".) But, if you have a good "mid-range" load i.e. the Remington Golden Saber 125 gr. Magnum load. I think you would be pleased.

Congratulations on an excellent J-Frame.

Well, to follow up, I have been shooting WWB 110gr .357's and they work fine in the M&P 340 with no unseating/crimp-jump problems. They're harsh, but not noticeably different from Remington .38 special +p 130gr. The Hornady 125's with the little red thing in the front ("CRITICAL DEFENSE" - rings of hysteria) are too much, stopped at three - no point in developing a flinch. I love my N-frames and the .357 magnum cartridge in full cry, but in this gun, 110 grains seems to be the limit for me. I got some 100gr Glaser "Pow'r Ball" .357 today and will try it this weekend. I should spend more time with this gun, but after I've finished high power and .45 I haven't been up for it. I think it's a mistake though because if I have my pants on I'm carrying this gun so I am planning to spend more time with it. The regular 38's are easiest so I guess I'll work up something light with those Sierras, maybe a low +p. Light loads are everything for marksmanship with 45, so the same should be true with this.


I'm all into blued steel and walnut, but admit the inexpensive stock grips are practical, providing a good grip and control without much bulk. I imagine a bigger grip covering the backstrap would help with the .357's but I think that would ruin the easy front-pocket carry.

1. Has anyone tried nice custom wood grips like Arends? Any difference compared to stock?

2. Any suggestions about hand loads for this, nice light loads for accuracy and a not-totally-psycho load for carry? I have Bullseye, Unique and Power Pistol on hand.


This is a great little revolver. It goes everywhere with me I'm allowed to carry. I'm like a smoker and his cigarettes, don't want to anywhere without it - buying stamps on line and making deposits at the outdoor ATM. It's hard not buying a second one, but I'm going to be strong.

Ahrends on a M&P 340? Sure do! What would you like to know?

I agree that the factory rubber grips work well for grip & shooting. But I did not like how tacky they were. Made the little gun print when carried OWB, and made for a slow & cumbersome pocket draw.

__________________
-Roger

I did experience crimp-jumping in my 360 with 110 gr. .38 +P loads. Also with 125 grainers in the heavier 642 (I know it's not supposed to happen). Always test extensively the load you intend to carry.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Very good advice for any SD carry.

I have experienced crimp-jump with my M&P 340, with 158 gr Remington 357 standard loads, and 158 gr Magtech 38 sp standard loads.

__________________
-Roger

Well, I fired a 20rd box of Glaser 100gr "Pow'r Ball .357" today. I checked the last of each of the five against the the shells in the box and noticed no difference in overall length and no signs of unseating. I had planned to bring my micrometer and didn't think to save the last each of five to measure when I got home but I'm not going to bother.

The 100 grain power ball felt just about the same as the Winchester 110's, maybe a little lighter. I am satisfied there will be no problems and plan to keep carrying my M&P 340 loaded with 100 or 110gr .357 from now on. This bullet weight commercial .357 is harsh but controllable and reasonably accurate for me at seven yards. I tried firing two each of the typically "hot" 125 grain duty loads, some of my vintage Remington and CCI police loads from the 80's like NY State Police and other officers used to carry for Model 28's, and they're a little too much - probably safe and all - but just too much. So far Winchester 110's and Glaser power ball 100's are great with me.

I like this little gun. It's a hammah!

Thanks for this. So you recommend them, worth the $. I have a big huge box of shooting accessories I'm too lazy to sell on e bay or gun broker and don't want to fill it any more. Having the benefit of other shooters' experience is a help. I guess I'll go for some unfinished all-black ebony from Ahrends.

Here is my best explanation with pics. Besides less printing because your clothing won't "stick", for me they actually improve my grip and point of aim. These grips have a groove notched in at the top of the grips. At first glance, you would think it's there to aid in ejecting spent shells. Yes, it definately does help that.

Here's a pic showing the groove.


When I put my hand on the grip frame to draw, I place my thumb in that groove. Then draw. It naturally places your hand very high on the grip frame. This helps with recoil control, and I get on target very fast with this grip. It points very naturally. I'd bet I could get on target without even looking at the front sight.

Here's a couple pics I just took to show you how high the grip frame is in my hand.



Edit: I should mention that I do use a two-handed grip when shooting. Gives me more control when firing .357 magnum, or even .38's. But I wanted to show how my thumb placement affects overall grip & control. Besides, my left hand was taking the pictures...

__________________
-Roger

Roger -

Thanks. This is good, useful information. No mistake, this is a difficult gun for me to shoot, so some extra "gription" at the thumb may help. I will need to force myself to practice more with this gun. I am going to load up 500 hollow points at .38 special pressures with clean powder like power pistol and try to reduce my group sizes to something below 3" at 7 yards.