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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 12-26-2014, 09:57 PM
Rhetorician Rhetorician is offline
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Question J Frame Model 360pd Trigger Question

Hello all:

I was wondering what was involved in having a "trigger job" done on my J Frame 360PD Scandium 357?

Such as:

1. Is it a DYI thing or can anyone do it?

2. Do I need to go to a smith to have it done?

3. What name brand spring kit to buy?

4. Will it ever be a "butter smooth" as my Ruger LCR 357?

5. Should I expect as such from the little Smith J Frame?

6. Should I even be comparing the J Frame to the Ruger LCR?

7. Should I just do nothing and just learn to shoot it and be content with the different characteristics of the Smith?

This thing is really wearing me out. I shoot all over the place with it but hit really well with the Ruger and my little Taurus 738 380acp?

Help a guy out here can you please!?? And please no flaming!!!

"That is all!"

rd
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Last edited by Rhetorician; 12-26-2014 at 09:58 PM. Reason: edit
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Old 12-26-2014, 10:56 PM
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Kernel Crittenden Kernel Crittenden is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhetorician View Post
1. Is it a DYI thing or can anyone do it?
There are a number of very detailed YouTube videos showing how to trigger job a Smith. Watch one and decide for your self. Changing out springs and a simple "fluff & buff" is not beyond the abilities of most mechanically minded persons. It helps to have a few basic tools. Like hollow ground screw drivers, and a rebound spring tool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhetorician View Post
2. Do I need to go to a smith to have it done?
Not necessarily. A good smith can work magic. They're worth it, especially if there's an underlying problem. Then again, there are limits to what I'm willing to pay for something that's not that hard to do myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhetorician View Post
3. What name brand spring kit to buy?
Wolff and Wilson Combat make springs. Apex Tactical makes a "kit" just for J-frames: main spring, rebound spring, extended firing pin and firing pin spring. I have three of the Apex kits waiting to go into some of my J-frames right now (you can buy them in bulk on eBay for a good price).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhetorician View Post
4. Will it ever be a "butter smooth" as my Ruger LCR 357?
5. Should I expect as such from the little Smith J Frame?
6. Should I even be comparing the J Frame to the Ruger LCR?
7. Should I just do nothing and just learn to shoot it and be content with the different characteristics of the Smith?
I'm going to lump these all together because in a sense they're all the same question. The Smith and Ruger are two different animals. The LCR has a very good trigger and my hat is off to Ruger for the effort they put into it. It was designed from scratch to be a great trigger right out of the box. The Smith trigger is a completely different mechanism. Some are great out of the box. Some need help. Most can benefit from some attention. I'm satisfied with all my J-frame triggers and won't be trading them off for a LCR anytime soon.
............................................
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2014, 11:17 PM
Rhetorician Rhetorician is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kernel Crittenden View Post
There are a number of very detailed YouTube videos showing how to trigger job a Smith. Watch one and decide for your self. Changing out springs and a simple "fluff & buff" is not beyond the abilities of most mechanically minded persons. It helps to have a few basic tools. Like hollow ground screw drivers, and a rebound spring tool.

Not necessarily. A good smith can work magic. They're worth it, especially if there's an underlying problem. Then again, there are limits to what I'm willing to pay for something that's not that hard to do myself.

Wolff and Wilson Combat make springs. Apex Tactical makes a "kit" just for J-frames: main spring, rebound spring, extended firing pin and firing pin spring. I have three of the Apex kits waiting to go into some of my J-frames right now (you can buy them in bulk on eBay for a good price).


I'm going to lump these all together because in a sense they're all the same question. The Smith and Ruger are two different animals. The LCR has a very good trigger and my hat is off to Ruger for the effort they put into it. It was designed from scratch to be a great trigger right out of the box. The Smith trigger is a completely different mechanism. Some are great out of the box. Some need help. Most can benefit from some attention. I'm satisfied with all my J-frame triggers and won't be trading them off for a LCR anytime soon.
............................................
Dear Kernel Crittenden:

Thanks you kind sir for your quick comeback. You have undoubtedly thought this thing through on the J Frame springs. I have had other thoughts as I have ruminated and read a little more on some of the d boards.

First, a friend of mine who was a professional gunsmith at one time told me something to the effect that if you have a "trigger job" done; then if you do have to ever use the carry piece for a weapon then the prosecutor can easily make you out to be one who is looking for a fight. I know this can and may open up a can of worms which is not my intention to do.

Secondly, I know that it is wrong to compare or even want the Smith to be as easy as the Ruger. They are what they are. Both are splendid products and it really is an "apples and oranges" question no doubt. In my further reading I ran across an idea that touched me and made me consider. I came to the handgun / carry ccw game late. So some of my dexterity and eyesight is weaker than some of the others. But I hit fairly well all considered. What made me sit up and take notice was, if I learn to shoot the little J like it is; this will probably go a long way to make me a better marksman.

So nuff said. I will think on these points and the ones you posted for sure. But one thing is for certain. A Smith will never be a Ruger and vice versa.

Thanks for the thoughts.

rd
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Last edited by Rhetorician; 12-26-2014 at 11:19 PM. Reason: edit
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2014, 11:53 PM
HarrishMasher HarrishMasher is offline
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HERE IS MY POST/RESPONSE TO A SIMILAR QUESTION. Just easier than re-writing it.

Very Simple Solution...You can solve this problem on your own for $25 by installing an Apex Trigger Kit. It will take 5 lbs off the trigger and make it buttery smooth.

I have 8 J Frames and all have one installed. I have installed many on friend's J Frames as well. Functions 100% in every gun I have installed it in with every type of ammo. Zero light strikes.

Many here have done the same and installed the kit.

It is the way the gun should have come from S&W. Install takes 15 mins. There is a video on the page as well that will walk you through the install.

No need to have a trigger job done. The gunsmith will simply install the same exact Apex Kit or Wolff springs that are the same as Apex and charge you $150. Do it yourself for $25.

Enough said. Just order the kit and install it and your problem is solved.

https://apextactical.com/store/produ...php?pid49.html
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:59 AM
kpla51 kpla51 is offline
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I have a 340 and the trigger is terrible compared to my much cheaper j frames which is a shame. Also don't fear a self instal on the parts these guys are suggesting. You tube is a good source of step by step info from people who have done it. When first starting i saved myself a lot of money but doing this!

Last edited by kpla51; 12-27-2014 at 01:01 AM.
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  #6  
Old 12-27-2014, 02:22 PM
16thVACav 16thVACav is offline
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I've installed a couple of Apex kits, and they work very well. Prior to installation, I had never even looked inside a revolver. Watching the Apex video and several others on YouTube helped me understand just how simple the job was.
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