I recently picked up some All-In-One Cleaner/Lubricants for one of my semi-autos. Does anyone out there use these types of products when cleaning your revolvers?

I'm a hoppe's #9 and rem oil guy. Only tried M-PRO7 so far (lately). Didn't work for me but use it as a "pre soak" only.

Still experimenting, but #9 and Rem oil have done the trick for 36 years so far!

Welcome to the forum.

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Criminals don't register guns.

I use a CLP or Ballistol sprayed on a white cotton terry cloth towel after the lead cloth. For the bore and cylinder I use Butch's Bore Shine. It smells horrible but cleans very well

Thanks Ginzo and 158 grain!! I appreciate the feedback you guys as I love my new 66-8 and want to take the best care of it as I can!!

You will probably find that everyone here has a different method for cleaning. My thought is that as long as your using decent products correctly, you should be fine. I have tried many different solvents and cleaners on a good variety of firearms, and have my methods for each. You will develop your own way and as long as it works for you, your good. The fun part is getting them dirty enough to need a cleaning!

You have to try hard to find a product made for guns that's bad for guns. There is twenty zillion ways to clean a gun and lube it. I'm not big on most 'do everything' products though. I'm old fashioned. Solvent to clean and oil for lube plus a special product for getting the black of the front of my .357 cylinder.

PS. If you shoot lead, which nowadays I do, you may need a special product for removing lead.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

More details and some pictures please? We ALL want to see your new pistola. Why are you making me beg?
(geeesh, newb's)

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Criminals don't register guns.

OK what ,if I may ask ,is your SPECIAL product, always looking to improve. thanks rich

Since I was introduced to Break Free Mil Spec CLP it is my one and only except for specialized purposes.
I've used it on guns taken into yukky places and it has never let me down. In the '80s I used Tetra Gun on recommendation of a trusted source and suffered two most-unwelcome gun failures in tropical climates. One, a Sig 228, the other a Walther PPK.

I tried contacting Tetra Gun and found they had insulted themselves from the public and would not return phone calls or letters. (Pre-Internet.) I knew many military men with rough field experience using CLP I could talk to. Sold me right away.

I've used "weapon shield" for several years on my blued and stainless steel S&W revolvers......very pleased with the way it cleans and protects

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There's nowt so queer as folk

Shaklee makes a product specifically for cleaning burned stuff off metal kitchen surfaces. It used to be called 'Easy Off' now it's called 'Scour Off' but don't let the name fool you. It isn't anything like chlorine cleanser and it very gentle. It is slightly gritty but cleans off the burns so easily that you don't have to 'scour' anything or worry about anything being abrasive. Put a little on your finger in a damp cloth and rub the cylinder face and around the forcing cone. It works fast. Clean off the areas you rubbed. A little of the pink stuff catches on my cylinder openings so I run an oiled patch through last. It's the only thing I've found that does the job easily and quickly. BTW I have a stainless steel gun so I'm not worried at all, but the stuff is made for copper burner eyes and any metal that gets burned crud on it, so it's safe.

When I'm first cleaning the gun with solvent I put some on the cylinder face to start working. I don't think this does one bit of good because I've tried everything to budge those burns, but it doesn't hurt anything.

I've wondered about putting a little oil or grease on the surfaces BEFORE starting to shoot and maybe making them even easier to clean.

Lead away cloth is good for wiping down other surfaces, but it won't touch those burns.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Here is the product I was turned onto is from "Wolf Premium Oils, All-In-One Gun and Oil Cleaner" I've used Hopps #9 which works really well but man that stuff stinks like crazy!

I have used a lot of different products to clean firearms in my lifetime……..the Corps taught me to use Brealfree CLP…..it was good enough then…….I guess it's still good enough……about all I ever use, I do use a little Rem Oil from time to time, but it is not a cleaning product.

Semper Fi!

Ballistol. I have a bottle of hoppes 9 but rarely use it.

I'm trying to get this pic to upload....I'm a dang newbie!

Attached Images

image.jpg (103.9 KB, 131 views)

Thanks to all of you and your help!!!

I pretty much just use CLP!

Good job!! That's a nice pistol!!!!! I just got this baby .357 today. A 649-3

Here's how you post a manly picture: LOL

Brought this one home today.....

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Criminals don't register guns.

That's wicked cool Ginzo! I'll get these uploads figured out before too long! I'm going to have a shelf full of differemt cleaners before I know it. My O.C.D. Gets me out of control when it comes to keeping my toys in the best condition possible. That 649-3 is sweet!

This is probably the best advice so far IMHO. YMMV


Thanks, I found it by accident the day before xmas eve, and my local guy (actually a pawn shop) got down to 375 OTD. I deal with him a lot, he knows what I favor. I mulled it over, went back xmas eve and put it on layaway.

We are all anal, you'll find your way. Trial and error. I think your gun is all SS? Can't really hurt it. On my SS stuff I ONLY use the lead free on the burn rings. No where else. Around the forcing cones I use either a brass (on SS) or nylon (on Aluminum) brush to clean that tight area under the backstrap. I ALWAYS remove the cylinders for cleaning, (talk about anal)? I use hoppes sparingly on my airweight 638, but normally on SS cyl and barrel. That's where the M-Pro7 comes in, on the aluminum brushed finish.

Plenty of knowledge here if you need it.

Regards,
Chuck
P.S. If you click on that picture, the link will take you to my photo bucket page, and you can view it all.

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Criminals don't register guns.

Right on Chuck.
I see a local pawn shop that says Tons O' Guns that I'm itching to check out. Yea this one is all SS but with a bead blast finish that I have been paranoid about screwing it up. I'm really enjoying this forum and the help and information on here as I'm new to revolvers and definitely see more in my future. I'll be posting all my questions up on here for sure as well as following threads to keep on learning. I'll be sure to peep the photo bucket too!
Adam

For you guys trying to get the powder burns off the front of the cylinder you need to go to Wally World and buy a can of "Nevr-dull". It is cotton wadding treated with chemicals to clean silver, gold, brass, ect. There is even a version of it in the automotive department made to clean car wheels. Either version works great. Here is a link: Home Page As far as all-in-one cleaners for firearms go I use G96 complete gun treatment spray. Here is a link: G96 Products Inc. ? Gun Lubricants & Cleaning Products for Firearms ? Gun Treatment ® To clean the inside of my barrels is use Kano Kroil "The Oil That Creeps". Here is a link: Penetrating-Lubricating Oils If I soak a firearm that is disassembled I use Hoppes #9. I particularly like the G96 on blued firearms applied as a multi-step treatment to prevent blued firearms from rusting. The instructions on how to do this is printed on the back of the can. That's all that I've got on the subject.....Lonnie

RAND CLP on everything in the safe these days. Cleans the carbon if you let it soak 5 mins. No nasty smell or gloves required.

I use FrogLube on my revolvers. So far, so good. As with my semi's, they clean up very easily.

I've been using Break Free CLP for years. Never see any reason to change.

+1 for the Ballistol. Not the strongest solvent, but as someone who shoots a couple times a week and cleans after every use I like the fact that it's an all natural product that has no harmful chemicals. BTW, good enough for this guy, good enough for me!

http://youtu.be/kiWNZgtu2uw

Also nice on wood stocks.

Break Free CLP is all that I ever use....works great.

What Shocker & Matt Hooper said. Been using Ballistol for about a year, and aside from the smell, I've got no complaints.

Oh I don't know how special it is but for bore cleaning duty I use my 25% Kroil and 75% Hoppes mix. If copper fouling is now present, Sweets 7.62 solvent is used. For lubricant and bore swab the old tried and true Break Free CLP is my weapon of choice.

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Stay safe people!

I use Breakfree CLP to clean and white lithium grease to lube.

It is important to use a heavy grease for lube especially on high velocity components like bolts and slides. Oils just fly off slides and bolts. Grease stays put better.

BRAKE FREE .

Always liked Tetragun stuff until recently. Used the Tetra Gun white grease on a couple of semi-automatic's slide. After about a week found them hard to work the action.

Going back to Rem oil for lubrication.

MPro7 cleaner and any good oil, with dry Teflon in the hot spots. The thing about MPro7 cleaner is it's more effective and quicker with repeated use. Here's a 4" 629 I had:

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Bob

For the most part, I use Hoppes No. 9 solvent and Break Free CLP for lube. On newer revolvers with blue finish, I use Break Free CLP exclusively because of some recent posts recommending that Hoppes No. 9 not be used on the newer blue finish from S&W. Sort of pathetic that a classic staple of the gun room cannot be used on the "Classic Series" of revolver.

I pre-soak, scrub and swab with M-Pro 7. Then I heat and swab entirety of the gun with Froglube. Re-heat and wipe.

I've been using basically Break Free for around 25-30 years and have had no problems. I do use Hoppe's #9 on any I shoot lead bullets in as it cleans the bore and chambers quicker and cleaner. A silicone rag for wiping the guns down is the last step before I put them back in the safe.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I use Breakfree CLP to clean all of my firearms. I never have to worry or wonder if it's going to damage a guns finish. Occasionally I will use some Hoppes #9 to clean up some heavy fouling.

I've been using G96 Gun Treatment for awhile and it seems to work well. (smells great too ) For stubborn deposits I'll also sometimes use Gun Venom cleaner first ....it's made by Hoppe's but doesn't smell like #9...works well

Been using Corrosion X for years. For a new firearm I apply it liberally inside and out and let it set a day or two then remove the excess. After that most fouling just wipes right off whether a pistol or revolver. On used guns I also had good results using it as a cleaner and it seems to do well as a lubricant.

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BCCI Life Member #2068

Thanks to all of you!!!! This is such awesome information for a new guy with his first revolver! Thanks to all of you as I will have the cleanest 66 on the front range of CO!!!!

At the moment I use EEZOX on nearly all my firearms; seems to work well enough.

I'm not gettin' it? Hoppe's is like perfume to me.

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Criminals don't register guns.

I always used to use Hoppe's #9 for cleaning and some light oil and gun grease for lube. More recently I started using Rem Oil for cleaning, lubricating and protecting. It's not just oil, like I used to think. I like to clean my guns in the house now that I'm shooting more, and the Hoppe's smell was too strong. I was happy with Rem Oil but didn't like how it dried out right away. I know it's teflon and still protects, but I just like the gun to stay oiled. I tried Ballistol and it's plenty oily, but I don't like the smell. So I tried Break Free and have been using it ever since. It's good and oily and seems to work as well as anything else and has even less odor than Rem Oil, which wasn't as bad as Hoppe's or Ballistol. I like the idea of using one product to clean, lube and protect. Simple and effective.

I only ever use FP-10 on my guns. Somtimes sold as Firepower 10, it is pretty much a CLP type product, and it is amazing. I shoot my classic blued guns heavily, and they look new with this stuff. Put a little around the forcing cone and muzzle before you shoot, and you can wipe 95% of the goop off with a towel right there at the range. Makes gun cleaning a lot faster later.

Been using Ed's Red for may years and a cleaner lube, I've tried a bunch of others, they just cost ten times more than ER and don't work any better. On slide rails, bolt lugs, and hinge pins I use a grease to prevent galling.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

I had forgotten
S&W used to sell some MPro7 products under a S&W label. That should attest to something...

I also use CLP, Tetra, Eezox on occasion but MPro7 stuff complemented by dry Teflon are what I use regularly.

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Bob

If you have a new S&W, be sure to read the manual. Some warn not to use ammonia base cleaners. They may ruin the finish. In that case any CLP will be a good choice, or Hoppes Elite cleaner or MPro 7 to name a few.

I have used many different brand cleaning products but for the last couple years I have settled on the M Pro 7 products. I use the M Pro 7 Gun Cleaner and the M Pro 7 Oil for every cleaning. I have also used the M Pro 7 Gel and M Pro 7 Copper Cleaner with good results. I have found that the M Pro 7 products do condition the metal and make subsequent cleanings easier as the company claims.
I do not work for the company and have never received any free products from them but if they want to send me a case of products I would gladly accept.

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Accuracy supercedes Speed

Another vote for Ballistol. No particular technical reason....I just tried it and liked it. Even the smell, which I didn't like at first, is growing on me.

Lots of great info here. Rejex available via Aircraft Spruce is what I am going to try "waxing" the 686-3 before the next shooting session. It was developed to remove exhaust stains from gasoline and jet fueled aircraft. I will let you know if it helps cleaning after shooting...

The only recommendation I have beyond what our experts offer is; let the parts you want to clean soak in the cleaner you use. Last weekend we put 150 rds. each through our 686-3 and 637PC. I soaked the parts and barrels , came upstairs , ate dinner and when I went back down an hour later or so the crud came off very easy.

Proper chemical cleaning beats abrasive cleaning...