hi all' towards the end of the month I got 3 gun shows coming up i'm trying to find a 586 6 in. my question is whats the difference in the brand new 586 vs the older ones. is there a certain one I should look for. or would I be better off just buying a brand new one $850.00 out the door. and what to look for on a used 586. thanks for the help

First off you should be able to purchase a New 586 at $699.99 to $739.99 before tax.The new 586 has the key lock and frame mounted firing pin.The grips are quite a bit narrower and the frame has more metal in the hammer area.I am not a fan of hammer mounted firing pins so my vote would go towards the New model.My new M586 shoots excellent and has the best double action pull that i have felt.

To each his own! I have a 586 no dash from 1983. (4") A 686-3, 6" from 1989. I myself just prefer the older guns if the condition is right. I only own 1, I.L. gun. A 625 JM. Love it, but given the choice would have bought an older 1. Bob

thank you dave, for the heads up on the grips and the price check if I have to go new i'll want to check that out first hand. I had a 586 before and liked the grips in either stock wood or pachmayer presentation grips. will the older grips fit the new guns? other than the grips it sounds like a great gun. and I agree with you bananaman the older guns just feel good I don't know if its how they're made or just the history.but they are different I have the 17-6,22a-1,625-4 and 29-2. the last one is why i'm considering a new one. got the 29 at a show gun looked great, got it home and 3 of the 6 chambers in the cylinder where bulged out. sent it to smith and Wesson they put in a new cylinder redone the forcing cone and went through and tuned it up. $350.00 later plus shipping I have a beautiful 29-2 that shoots like a dream. thank you for your replies

I sent $700 off today for a brand new 586 with free shipping. Older ones in real nice condition have been nearly the exact same price. I have many older Smiths but decided not to take a chance on an older one this time. Always regretted selling my 586 no dash I bought new in 1981. The only other IL Smith I've ever owned was a 629-6 and I never had a sweeter functioning one. I sold it though when I bought a Freedom Arms 44 Mag.

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I know what you mean I traded my 586 for a 27 which I traded for a 29 8in. which I traded for the 29-2 with bulged cyl. should have kept it, but the grass is always greener.

Went into a local shop today. 4 inch 586-8, 4 inch 29-10 and a 6 1/2 inch 27-9 were all in the low to high $900 range!!! Must be all those shipping charges from 80 miles away in Springfield.

I just brought home today my new 586-8 for $749 out the door. I love everything about it. Everything is super smooth and works great. I don't know how to explain it other than that when I added cartridges to my S&W that it felt better than it did empty. But not weight wise but more solid. Even my Brother who is a big time Taurus fan could not help but stop and admire my new favorite bedside gun.

The 586 and 686 are GREAT! My 686 was built in 1993 or so...it's a tough son of a gun...period. Take care of it and it takes care of you. Unfired for years with an annual cleaning,protecting our home,travels and etc. A couple of months ago the wife and me decided to start shooting again...flawless...and back in service no problem.

sounds good. tomorrows the gun show, after a half day of work. I think i'm leaning towards a new one

I had to make a similar decision -- a new 586 or a 80's made 686-3, 4" in stainless steel w/ a square butt Goncalo Alves grips. I opted for the vintage (used) 686-3 at $810, got a trigger job by an expert gunsmith, and now I'm good to go- they don't make 'em like that anymore for sure. What a pattern i can shoot w/this S&W ... I don't think you can get a new 586 in stainless or w/a square butt if that matters to you ... i couldn't hold onto the newer round guns ....

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Any 586/686 is a great choice.

I agree with some others in this thread in that I like a frame-mounted firing pin. So my vote is go new.

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Btw, here's a pic of what that old 686-3 4" did at the range the first time i fired it yesterday ... I think the main thing when you choose a model is how does it feel firing/handling it, then what do you want it to have as far as features? Good luck and take your time choosing ... thanks to Sandy G. for excellent trigger job --- awesome!

Ignore the .44 mags in the head pls -- the center mass is from the 686

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Jframejoey- Check out Guns and Gear in Agawam. They have. 4" 586 for around $740

nice shooting, I really like the old one's but finding one in good condition at a decent price is gonna be the trick. I like the idea of a new one cause i'll know what i'm getting. but the older one's are just better. whats the pro an cons on this firing pin deal. thanks guys

The New 586 Classic series is a SQUARE but frame so all previous designed grips for the older Revolvers will fit exactly the same.As far as Hammer mounted vs Frame mounted Firing pins?The Hammer mounted pins have a tendency to need replacing with heavy use and they do not hold up to Dry firing.The mechanisms in the Frame mounted models contain a transfer bar that is far superior in safety and function not to mention you get less carbon build up in the hammer area.Make sure you inspect the New 586 for correct alignment of the barrel to the frame there are a few out there that left the factory canted to one side.thats about all that could be wrong with a new one.The great thing about buying a new S&W they will make it right no matter what and pay both ends of shipping.

Can't seem to find a 586 around here new or old. I'm enjoying my new 686 4 inch for $635 a month ago. Still looking for a 586. A gap to fill ya know

thanks dave love the square butt not so much the round butt. great info on the firing pin thank you. the new one really sounds like the way to go. I know what you mean mark I've found a $900.00 used one that I wouldn't use as a hammer let alone shoot, and the $850.00 new one. I just can't get in a hurry.

With a round butt you can always get "round to square" grips.

Transfer bar is a Ruger thing.

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well just got back from the gun show, no 586 new or old i'm gonna call a few places in Wichita and see what I can find.

I can give you the phone# of the place where i purchased mine in Orem utah.The Retailer is called GUNNIES They for sure have 3- 6inch versions and i am not sure on the 4inch model.
Phone#801-226-7080 I paid $699 they had a special going at that time.they are really good at giving customers the best possible price so ask if they could transfer one to your FFL at that price.

thanks dave. I talked to money town pawn in Wichita on the phone they priced it at $727.00. the big gun show at the coliseum is march 7th and 8th if I can't get one at either place I might have to give them a try thank you very much

I looked for a year and finally found a 586 older model. I was about to the point of buying a new one. The one I found is 98%. Will post a pic as soon as I can get the uploaded to work. I still may buy a new one.
I had a model 19-4 I bought new. Have dryfired it so many times to count. I have also put 50,000 through it with no issue with the firing pin.
JR.

You might want to check Gunbroker.com or Gunsinternational.com and search on the models you're looking at to just see what prices look like, depending on condition and year, then you can shop those prices at a show ... I bought my Smiths off each site and am very happy w/each ...

Where have you come up with these"facts"? First, there is no transfer bar in a new model S&W that has a frame mounted firing pin and IL. There is a hammer block, just like the older models. Smith & Wesson doesn't use a transfer bar; never have to this day. And I am sure of this as I was just in the innards of my wife's brand new 60-15. And where did you come across the part about hammer mounted firing pins being more susceptible to breakage from usage and dry firing? I would like some links if possible. I have a 41 year old model 27 that has been dry fired I don't know how many times and never had a minute's problem with the hammer mounted firing pin. Now, I did change out the whole hammer 25 years or so ago, but that was because I was having a problem with the hammer catching the trigger in single action and not dropping cleanly. It was cheaper and quicker for me then to replace the hammer and trigger with new, target models than try to hunt down a competent Smith & Wesson gunsmith locally. But I never have had a problem with a hammer mounted firing pin. And it seems that I have read that the inline frame mounted firing pins have been known to collapse or break the return spring on them with dry firing, but I don't know this for a fact. You are correct about checking for a clocked barrel though and any new S&W pistol needs to be examined thoroughly before you buy it. Quality control seems to be hit or miss. The 60-15 I bought for my wife is a good one. But I also looked at a new model 29 at that same gun shop that had serious issues, including a slightly canted barrel, looses cylinder stop fit and serious endshake issues.

yeah I can't get in a hurry. I don't ever dry fire anything I own even my gp100 and redhawk not that it would hurt them , I own snap caps for everything I own, pistol and rifle. great info guys thank you

The only place the grass is always greener is over the septic tank!!

ain't that the truth

Hey muddocktor? Don't get your panty's in a bunch over simple terminology crossover.I am used to Rugers transfer bar safety mechanism from years of using the vaquero in informal shooting with our club.yes i am very aware that Smith & Wesson uses a falling bar to create the same effect.as far as Hammer mounted firing pins I have replaced several on 3 different SAA Colts over the years and Finally switched to Vaqueros 5 years ago.The Ruger is light years ahead of the hammer mounted firing pin Colts and its Clones. I still own 1 Colt SAA but it is a collectors piece and rarely goes to the range.Where did i get these Facts? FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE! You guys that have nothing but Hatred for New technology are seriously a pathetic bunch.

Ruger's transfer bar operates in a totally different way than S&W's hammer block. There is no comparison between the two systems.

I don't think Muddocktor was being mean at all!

I am beginning to think joining this forum was a mistake.Every time someone mentions that a new production smith & wesson is anything but a piece of garbage you guys that are stuck on Older production Revolvers chime in to pick apart Anyone with an opposing view.Get over yourself s.

No, I wasn't trying to be sarcastic, dave7v7. But I also don't care for wrong information to be posted either. You might be able to help me out with understanding the transfer bar on the Rugers actually as I don't own a Ruger and have never torn one down either. From what I understand of the transfer bar, it actually is interposed between the hammer and firing pin to shoot, right? And if it's not in position, then it also physically blocks the hammer from being able to touch the firing pin. With a Smith, the hammer block does just that and physically blocks the hammer from being able to block either the firing pin (on frame mounted pins) or blocks the hammer nose from being able to drop through the hammer nose bushing and strike the primer with the old style hammers. All this is when the hammer is down. When the hammer is drawn back (single or double action), it is physically removed from blocking the hammer. Also, there is another safety built into the pistol that actually preceded the hammer block. But some time in the 30's I believe, there was some kind of accidental discharge where that block got defeated somehow and a person died and Smith & Wesson came up with the present hammer block they added alongside the older safety mechanism.

As for being against the new guns, well since I just bought a new 60-15 for the wife I can't be too against them. I don't care for the lock they threw in the pistol, but I can live with it so far. As for the MIM parts, that doesn't bother me functionally. Cosmetically, I think the old hammer and trigger look better, but that doesn't change the fact that the MIM hammer and trigger work just fine. And I find that with a lighter rebound spring and a tiny bit of stoning of the rebound slide, that 60-15 has a trigger as nice as any other older S&W I own. It is light and breaks like a glass rod.

As far as my statement on the older hammer mounted firing pins and not being somewhat fragile as compared to the inline frame mounted firing pin, I honestly want to see a link on this. Like I've said, I have a 41 year old 27 that I've owned since 1974 and have seen no evidence of any problems with hammer mounted firing pins personally. But I have read of people having problems with the newer frame mounted pins here on these forums with dry firing. Not a lot of them, but I have read of it. That 27 has had over 30k rounds through it and who knows how many times I've dry fired it. And the only problem I had was with the hammer catching on the trigger in single action with the original hammer and trigger. I guess something wore enough for that to start happening and I just replaced both hammer and trigger that came with my pistol with the wider target models. I still have the original hammer nose bushing in it and it is still in decent shape except for a couple of surface pits in it from some way overpressured PMC ammo I bought back in the 70's or 80's when I first saw PMC ammo for sale. It was so overpressured that it was piercing the primers and you had to put something between your palm and the ejector rod to get the cases out without hurting your hand.

Don't go off mad; we are all here to help each other out on these forums. Hopefully my explanations (poor as they are, I'm no gunsmith) help you to understand a Smith out better and maybe I can learn some things from you. Heck, I'm 59 years old and I still get a kick out of learning new facts and information.

Be cool!

mudd

PS: dey59, sorry for hijacking your thread a bit man. I hope you understand.

no problem the more information the better

Going to try and send a pic. My regular photo site messed up. Just signed up for this one and don't know it. this is a round butt gun I just bought.
JR



Guess it's working.

is that a 4 inch barrel

Thats a 4 inch. These are 6 inch. Much easier to find.
JR

very nice, I prefer the 6 inch in my 29 and i'll get the 6 inch in my 586. but my gp100's are both 4 and 6 inch. the 4 is alright but I still prefer the 6. you have some great guns there. thanks for sharing. i might try an upload mine in the next day or so

Do I hear an echo of Erma Bombeck?

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103_0296.jpgone of mine just got the knife yesterday

103_0290.jpg MEET THE SMITHS