Hi, I recently purchased a 686+ (new), with a 4 Inch barrel. First gun I've ever owned (so I have rookie questions).

After a week of heavy use, I've gone through >1200 rounds of both .38 and .357 calibers. I've cleaned the gun religiously, after each use, using the techniques that I've read about, and seen in so many of the YouTube videos. I've tried to be careful and complete in my cleaning (I actually sort of like the cleaning part; it's fun).

Anyway, I noticed that INSIDE the bore, about a quarter inch from the forcing cone, there is a stubborn ring of what looks like carbon or soot; it's been there since I first noticed it, after the second cleaning. I've gotten progressively more anal in trying to get rid of that narrow ring, but it won't go away. I've been using CLP, and have even tried the 'only for hardcore cleaning' version of CLP. Brass brushes, nylon brushes, Jag w/ patches, you name it.

Again, I'm a rookie, so I want to know:

1. Is this normal? Am I obsessing over something that is no big deal?

2. If there is a way in which to get rid of this, can you make a recommendation? Note: I've already ordered a box of copper chore-boy pads, since I read that those are occasionally used for this type of stuff (haven't received them yet). Should I be careful in using Chore-boy pads? Any tips? Should I not even use the Chore-boy pads?

Another question: I'm trying to learn more about this stuff, in general, and want to know if I should use low-cost LRN bullets or FMJ? I'd obviously prefer to save money, but not it creates other problems, down the road.

Anyway, thanks for any guidance you might offer, here. Again, I'm just getting started with handguns, and really, really like the 686 in a big way.

hmmm Thought I'd start the replies. . (since no one else did).

Ring Inside Barrel: Discoloration is normal. You do not want a build up of lead however. (Search for lead removal on this forum. I have never had this problem)

I would use jacketed bullets exclusively if they are priced right. We have all but eliminated leading using jacketed bullets. Plated bullets should be fine for all but the hottest loads (if you handload).

LRN may be a bit cheaper, but at higher velocities and pressures you are going to transfer this lead to your firearm.

Even muskets had some material between the bore and ball.

Welcome to the forum.

You made a good choice in the 686.

It sounds like you have a lead deposit from shooting un-jacketed bullets. This is to be expected with lead bullets. Over time, it can mean severe leading the length of the barrel, so it should be removed periodically before that happens.

I have always used a Lewis Lead Remover, available from Midway or Brownell's.

You have a choice of cheaper lead bullets plus the lead removal chore; or jacketed bullets with some copper removal. I use Hoppes #9 Bench Rest Copper Solvent; or Bore Tech Eliminator to remove copper deposits.

If you enjoy cleaning your gun (I do), you would probably enjoy reloading.
I have a 4 inch 686 SSR, and load plated bullets, since I can't use lead bullets at the ranges in these parts. It costs about 16 cents a round to load 125 gr plated flat point cartridges.
The plated bullets shot very clean. Easy to clean up.
You may have noticed powder residue on the cylinder face and around the rear of the barrel on the frame. This is difficult to get bright, and most of us use normal cleaning in these areas, and accept that there will be black powder discoloration on the cylinder face.
Enjoy your new revolver, you made a good choice.

Best,
Rick

Rick, Thanks for that. I do want to consider reloading, but first I want to learn how more about the basic care & feeding of this gun, and how to become really good at shooting it. Guessing that takes time and elbow grease; the usual.

With the cylinder face, I think over time, I'll be okay with that being blackened and stuff, but since the gun is still in it's honeymoon period, I clean the face, and use lead remover cloth (knowing that I may not always care about the cosmetics of the cylinder face).

But the inside of the bore is what had been freaking me out. Not because it's discolored, but because it's discoloration is such a narrow ring close to the forcing cone. I kept looking at it, and trying to figure out what it was (and whether it is a big deal), etc.

There have been some recently made Smiths posted on this forum that have had strange "gouges" in the barrel in the area you describe. Obviously, a manufacturing defect. The barrels were replaced under warranty at no cost to the owner.

I'm not saying that's what you have. But it's a possibility with recent S&W product. A gouged barrel could cause lead and copper to build up at the gouge.

I'd try to clean it down to bare metal. Chemically, with the Chore Boy, or both. Then look (or "feel") for a physical defect in the barrel. If there is one, call the mothership for a return label.

__________________
~ S&W aficionado in training ~

If you don't have any dental tools, you can sharpen a paper clip to a flat point like a screwdriver and then bend about 1/4" of the tip at a 90 degree angle. Use it like a probe to "feel" the ring. Usually a raised surface means lead deposits and the probe may scrape them out. If it is a recessed ring, that could mean a squib load was fired at some point, but since you bought the gun new, that would not be the case.

Not trying to change the subject, but why can't you use lead bullets at your range ?

The indoor ranges wont allow them due to lead pollution in the air.
They go over the ammo with a magnet and a fine tooth comb!
No steel in the bullets, either.

Best,
Rick

Thanks, learn something every day-- I can see no steel-- our range you can't use jacketed bullets

For the same reason you can't get lead sinkers anymore for fishing.

__________________
~ S&W aficionado in training ~

WELCOME TO THE FORUM, Mr. 6869. NOT SURPRISINGLY TO ME--I HAVE TO ROLL WITH THE KERNEL ON THIS ISSUE. YOU PICKED A GREAT REVOLVER TO PURCHASE, BUT UNFORTUNATELY, S&W QUALITY CONTROL HAS BEEN LESS THAN STELLAR AS OF LATE. YOUR BARREL MAY VERY WELL HAVE A MANUFACTURING DEFECT……

I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH CLP, SO I CAN'T COMMENT ON ITS ABILITY TO REMOVE LEAD. GIVING THE HEAVY CLEANING VERSION THE BENEFIT OF THE DOUBT, I WOULD RUN A SOAKED MOP UP THE BARREL (ATTACHING IT TO THE CLEANING ROD IN THE CYLINDER SPACE, RATHER THAN AT THE MUZZLE END) STOPPING IN THE AREA OF THE RING. LET THE MOP SIT THERE OVERNIGHT, SO THAT THE CHEMICALS CAN WORK. THE FOLLOWING DAY, I WOULD PULL THE MOP OUT, NOTING ANY EVIDENCE OF LEAD DEPOSITS ON THE MOP. THEN, I WOULD CLEAN THE MOPOFF, SOAK IT AGAIN, AND RUN IT THROUGH THE BORE IN THE TRADITIONAL MANNER--ie--FROM THE MUZZLE END. SUBSEQUENTLY, I WOULD GIVE THE BORE A GOOD SCRUBBING WITH A BORE BRUSH WRAPPED WITH STRANDS OF CHORE BOY. WIPE IT OUT WITH PATCHES, UNTIL THE COME OUT CLEAN, AND LOOK IN THEIR WITH A BORE LIGHT. SEE IF ITS CLEAN…..

I HAVE 3 686s of VARYING LENGTHS, A 2 1/2", 4" AND 8 3/8". NONE OF THEM HAVE THIS PROBLEM, AND I SHOOT 158GR, LEAD SWC RELOADS ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY. MY REVOLVERS CAN BE MAINTAINED WITH A BORE SNAKE AND REGULAR USE OF "FIRECLEAN" SOLVENT…..

IF YOUR PROBLEM PERSISTS, I WOULD CALL S&W, ASK FOR A SHIPPING LABEL, AND SEND IT BACK UNDER YOUR WARRANTY…..

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.