I was looking at 3 blue 19's I have both 4 inch and 2.5. They all have a piece of metal coming out of the frame behind the trigger. I would call it a trigger stop. I noticed it on two out of 3 Nickel 19's. All are P&R I also saw it on two 6 inch 586. Didn't see it on any of my SS guns or my 4 inch 586 which is a 94 model. Anybody know why it's on some and not others?
JR

A trigger stop at its simplest is just a screw that can be adjusted to stop the trigger movement just after the sear releases. For precision single-action shooting like bullseye, it is just one more refinement to aid precise hits.

A trigger stop that can prevent the gun from firing if out of adjustment is the last thing you want on a defense, LE, or action pistol competition revolver. I fire revolvers double action when shooting in IDPA and the "bullseye" on the target is 8" across.

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Science plus Art

I have always shot DA. My 19 has at least 50,000 through it and never given me a problem with the piece. I had to qualify out to 50 yards DA. I also used the gun In some service revolver matchs that were out to 50 yards DA only.
JR

Trigger stops will frequently be installed on guns meant for target shooting, and/or guns with longer barrels. Though often times there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to the guns they will be installed on. Such as plain Jane service revolvers. Most Law Enforcement agencies removed the stops as a matter of routine.

At one point in the '80's S&W was on a real trigger stop "kick". I'd say during that era something like one in ten revolvers shipped had the stop. S&W has gone away from TS's in more recent years. Now days you typically will only see trigger stops on Performance Center guns, and then it's a threaded screw mounted on the the trigger itself, instead of the old style internal trigger stop that required the removal of the side plate to adjust.

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~ S&W aficionado in training ~

And this reply relates to trigger stops how??

Thanks for the information, Kernel. I learned something today.

The trigger stops in my 3 new PC guns appears to be a roll pin cut off to fit. Looks kinda cheap.

The trigger over-travel stop not necessarily noticed is the precise length pin installed inside the rebound slide spring. This if often found in the Mod 25-2, and Mod 29 among others. You may not know it is there if you have never removed the side plate.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

An ardent poster would realize that jrandyh is the OP and he get's to add additional information to HIS post without having to expain it to those who don't follow posts real good.

That's where I come in! I'll help tie this together for you

I guess because somebody on a FB page stated it was prone to come loose and cause a problem when shooting DA.
I didn't realize that info hadn't been shared on here.
Has more relevance that you playing Internet policeman in MY thread.

I have found that my quality Smith and Wesson revolvers have all had excellent triggers as built. None had trigger stop adjustment screws that I knew of. I do know that stops are added to the Ruger MKx series to both reduce travel on the front end and to limit the pull on the backend.

This is done to improve the standard 'lawyer' trigger.

I have an L frame built for competition. The trigger stop has a detent ball in it. It allows you to pause your trigger press (basically in a SA mode) momentarily before you shoot. With practice, you can find the pause spot quickly, settle your sights and squeeze off a light trigger pull

I have always wondered why some had them, some didn’t, and why some weren’t even cut for the trigger stop. Just like the OP, my 2.5” 19 has one in place and is the best shooter I have.

I guess they were the internal lock of the day; it’s not a problem until it is a problem.

Starting with the Masterpiece line in 1946, all K frame guns with adjustable sights had the trigger stop-






It is adjustable. It is possible to move it into a position that will NOT let the trigger release the hammer. It is held in position by a screw under the sideplate:






I THINK it was in the 80s, but it MAY have been the late 70s that a story started circulating that a trigger stop came loose on a cop's gun and moved into a position that would NOT let the gun fire and the cop got killed in a gunfight. I do not know if that is truth or rumor, but I DO know that many PDs started removing the trigger stops from duty weapons. S&W recommended doing so.


Not long after that, I do know for a fact that 38 and 357 K frames started shipping WITHOUT trigger stops. They still had the slot for the stop, but it was not included with the gun. Instead, you got this piece of paper:




I think the Mod 17 and 18 still shipped with the Trigger Stop. Probably the Mod 14s also.

Sorry, but my knowledge of more modern guns is pretty light, so I can't tell you when/IF they were dropped or current status.

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

I got my 686 back from Smith a couple months ago. I had them do the "master revolver package" on it. It involves polishing the cylinder yoke boss and polishing up the internals, chamfering the charge holes and finally, adding a non adjustable trigger stop. What they did on mine was basically installed a steel roll pin on the inside of the trigger and fit it to contact the frame just at the break, preventing any further movement of the trigger past the break point of the sear. It is intended to aid the shooter by keeping sights on target after shooting.

The AGI DVD for S&W revolvers host is Ken Brooks. In this video he relates that while a gunsmith working at S&W, their policy was to remove the trigger stops on any revolvers that came in for repairs. ( of course, bagged and returned to the customer along with the gun)

During a reassembly session, on the DVD, he had a problem replacing the hammer because the the trigger stop was preventing the trigger to be pulled back far enough for the hammer to just drop into place. He said he could force it but instead loosened the screw and moved the stop back a bit.

I have a 629 with the little rod inside the trigger return spring. Very effective and not likely to go out of adjustment. I've had two L frame revolvers at the Mothership for the "Master Revolver Action Package". Both came back with the roll pin trigger stop installed in the backside of the trigger. I figure this is to minimize the chances of it getting out of adjustment. They are also effective and I like them.

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Foster Positivity.

That would be a "trigger shoe." and not a "trigger stop."

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

The trigger (the piece) stop never gave him a problem.

Handejector did an excellent/description illustration of the trigger stop. It was in the late '70's that our department was notified by Smith & Wesson of the possibility of the trigger stop coming loose and locking up the revolver, although, I never witnessed such a thing. Were were all notified and given opportunity to receive several of the "new" stops to install in our K frame revolvers if we had one. K frame was popular as off duty/back up as our patrolmen carried the M58 .41 mag with detective division authorized to carry 2.5" M19. The old trigger stop was sort of kidney or elongated oval shaped and ribbed on one side to help eliminate slipping. The new stop was sort of the same with exception it had an "arm" coming off the top of one side. Kinda looked like a boomerang with one fat arm and one skinny shorter arm. Lee gave the illustration showing the location of the stop and the screw that holds it in. The screw that holds the stop in is same size/thread as the screw that holds the rear sight leaf in. So, if ever in need of a screw for your rear sight leaf, there it is for an extra.

I have found the pin in the rebound slide version to be so short as to do nothing. If you want one that actually works, you have to make your own longer one and carefully fit the length. They are very finicky to get right, as just .001 or .002 makes a big difference in how well they work. I don't like this kind anyway, as they bend the pin for the rebound slide spring over time.

If I want a trigger stop, I just drill the middle back of the trigger with a 1/8" straight flute, 2 flute solid carbide drill. No need to anneal the trigger, the carbide walks right through it. I make a blind hole, being careful not to go through the front. Then cut off a piece of 1/8" drill rod, fit it for length, and Loctite it in.

If you set up the stop for single action, it will be too short to work well for the double action. If you set it for the double action, it blocks the single action from working. If you want the one trigger stop to work for both single and double action, set it so that the DA will work with two thicknesses of paper behind the stop, but not more. You can make a strip of paper 1/4" wide and fold the end over and over to get more thicknesses. Then stone the SA part of the trigger back until the SA function works as desired. The SA should work with one paper, but not 2. Then you will have the best revo trigger stop there is.

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protocalldesign.com

From a pure accuracy standpoint, not a defense weapon, a trigger stop is very beneficial. Trigger over travel is an enemy to accuracy. When shooting over bags, without the stop, with a scoped handgun, the scope movement is quite noticeable. I have Ruger Super Blackhawk, that I drilled the rear of trigger guard, and put in an Allen screw to eliminate over travel. It easily cut my 100 yards groups by more than half. I have a 629, with an internal trigger stop pin. I felt as though it had too much over travel, so I started experimenting with a longer pin. It was tedious, one stroke with a fine file, made the pin too short....increasing over travel. I made several, before I hit the “sweet spot”!

My explanation of minimal over travel is this. Imagine yourself in a tug of war, with the other end of rope tied-off. Your pulling very hard, and someone cuts the rope. You’re going to fall backwards, and probably fall on your butt. You are creating a “wiggle” just at the time that the sear breaks contact....the absolute worst time to have firearm movement! Now with the same scenario, only now with a wall just fractions of an inch behind you. The rope is cut, your body movement will be minimal. This example is exaggerated, with a heavy trigger pull! memtb

Here's a pic that shows a roll pin trigger stop:

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Foster Positivity.

Just pulled a few revolvers from the safe,
67-1 is cut for the trigger stop, 67-3 is not.
66-2 is cut for the trigger stop, 66-5 is not.
686 is cut for the trigger stop, 686-4 is not.

So do ALL smith and Wesson revolvers come from the factory with them? Or is it an option on some?

And many of those Ruger Mark pistols are used for competition, like my 7.

Came loose on my Model 15 in an IDPA match once and tied the gun up. Very embarrassing!

Took it out and never used the stop again. I did not notice any degradation of the trigger pull.

In my opinion just another example of an unneeded option. If it's a target gun and one feels it shoots more accurately with the stop, okay.

But to me, ALL handguns are potential self defense weapons and absolute reliability is of course the number one priority.

I have only seen the internal trigger stop on K frame revolvers with the adjustable rear sight.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

My true tale......I and a friend were squirrel hunting in a swamp. We shook out a big ol coon. I tried to shoot him but my 19 wouldn't fire. I swapped end with and holding it by the barrel I swung my arm back and said I'm gonna throw this *** into the swamp. My friend hollered NO NO don't do that. Give it to me. I checked it upon returning home.........The trigger stop had rotated out causing the gun not to fire....Suffice to say that trigger stop got removed that night.

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S&W Accumulator

I have a couple of target sighted S&W's that have the factory trigger stop in the slot.
As part of my initial detail strip and clean procedure that I do with all used guns, I removed the screw and stop, cleaned and degreased them and the threaded hole in the frame carefully, and reinstalled using just a tiny bit of blue Loctite on the retaining screw. I used a feeler gauge to set the gap between the stop and rear of the trigger. I forget the gap but it was sufficient to allow the trigger to release the sear in both SA and DA with about .001" movement after the hammer started to fall.

The stops have never moved. The guns are not used for self defense so I don't worry about it. I really like having next to zero overtravel and believe it helps me shoot more accurately.

Thought I would enter the fray. 😁 went and looked at a M19-3 from 1970 and my M66 from ‘73 both K-frames, both have the same trigger stop handejector shows in post #19 some later ones don’t have it.

Information for what it’s worth if it helps anyone.

Excellent post! Even the pictures look just like the letter we received from S&W in the late 70’s warning us to remove the stop on any weapon used in LE. Watch Commander read the letter in roll call, and as soon as we broke, the screw drivers came out. Took the stop out of my K38 before getting in the car!