Greetings all;

First off, sorry for starting another "lock" thread, but... I'm looking for alternatives to filling the large hole left by the IL now that the "plug" appears to not be available. I do hope the gentleman who was providing the plug is back in good health - hate to hear those things.

At the moment, I've got my 438 removed lock hole covered by a circular piece of electrical tape, which actually looks pretty good, but it isn't a long-term solution.

I'm not handy with fabricating anything more complicated than a sandwich, so making my own plug is out of the question.

I saw one person post a flag sticker over his, that looks pretty good, but my gun is black and I want to avoid brightening it up.

Any other sources for a plug or other alternatives?

How about grinding off the lug on the lock that engages the hammer? Then the lock won't do anything no matter what position it is in.

Thanks for the reply.

I gave that some consideration before removing all of the lock pieces. My thoughts were that I did not want to have something that looked like it worked (i.e. the internal lock) that didn't. Also, with all pieces intact, if at some point in the future the lock needs to be restored, I've got all the parts.

Take a bumper sticker with some black areas on it. Punch out some circles with a regular stationary hole punch, I think you will find the bumper sticker glue is better than the glue on electrical tape.

Sell it and buy a PRE lock model.

Someone should market a larger cylinder release that would cover the "hole".
Are you concerned about getting "stuff" into the action through the hole?
The safest thing to do would be to just leave the hole open, then there is no chance of something coming apart and jamming the action, which would be as bad as having said lock fail at a critical time. I would only try to cover the hole from the outside, to prevent that. Putting tape on the inside could cause problems if it came off. Tape wouldn't work for me, as I clean the outside with solvent, and that would make fast work of glue.

Best,
Rick

Interesting idea. If you have time, could you expand on how you made the plug? I'm assuming just carefully wipe the silicone into the hole with something over the backside 'til it sets?

Thanks for that. I did in fact use a hole punch to make the cover w/the electrical tape. Looks OK.. sort of. I just don't see it as something I want to live with long-term.

Not an option. If I do see a used one in the future, and the funds/timing is right, I will buy it.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the tape is on the outside, it would take a serious direct impact to have it fall in - but, it could happen. I wouldn't dream of putting tape on the inside of any gun. As it is, it looks OK, but really, tape on a gun just rubs me the wrong way - it's a temporary solution. I'm not really worried about dirt or debris getting into the hole, it just looks weird with the gaping hole on the side of a revolver. I really wish someone would start machining those plugs again!

fill the hole in the lock with JB weld, after you grind the lug off then re-install the lock. It won't work anymore, and won't look like the lock anymore. If you need to return the gun to original, there are plenty of lock parts available.

Definitely a thought... haven't seen anywhere to buy lock parts though. Do you have a source?

Also, thinking out loud: anyone try a tapered rubber plug? I would think one could be whittled down to fit pretty tightly from the outside of the frame. That or a hard plastic plug with a small lip on the backside?

Photo just for reference.

I used clear packing tape. I have used only Rem Oil to clean the outside of the gun. The tape has held up well.

Attached Images

DSC_0008.jpg (66.9 KB, 2429 views)

The only guns I have done this to are my EDC revolvers. I don't mess with my competition guns. I don't care how a possible life saving "tool" looks.

I placed the flag over mine. Also agree it's not permanent solution. A large pistol primer is just bout the right size to be pressed in. I just don't have the guts to try it. My luck the frame would crack. On my next one I think I'll just remove the flag and leave the lock part that you see. Also if you had an extra lock you may be able to solder it and file it. Then put it back. Just an idea. The lock will not stop me from buying a new revolver thow.

__________________
No gold. Only lead. Bobby

If I knew for absolute certain that John Whitt was no longer making these, I can either make the plugs or get them made. If there is any chance of John reemerging, then I would not consider it.

I saw your flag cover and like it. If the flag were olive drab, it might look good on my 438 as well.

I have a bunch of spent LPP below my press, so I gutted one and measured it against the lock insert. It is close. For the lock insert, I get a diameter of .197". For the LPP, I get .210" for the bottom and .213" for the top. The LPP is also thick enough that it should protrude a hair on the inside of the frame (so it could be flared out to hold). I didn't try to fit it in the hole, but it may just fit - might try it tomorrow just to see.

I'm sure these would be very popular if you do decided to do it.

A design drawing for the plug would be nice, so those of us so inclined, could make our own. Not that it's impossible to measure a hole in a frame, but it would save some trial and error, I'm sure.

Pretty sure everybody who bought plugs, has a baggie full of lock parts they don't want. . Also I think if you return it to S&W for warrantee work, they will just install a new lock for you.

Buy a ruger

Is just leaving it alone and ignoring it not an option?

Bob

I love Rugers! Do they make a JFrame sized 5-shot revolver with a shrouded hammer?

If anyone here has a "internal lock flag w/spring" that will my fit 438 they want to sell, please PM me. I definitely considered filing down the nub, but didn't want to destroy the part.

Ignoring the lock? No, not an option. Ignoring the hole? Yes, an option, but I'd rather have it filled in.

I love the 438, it's exactly what I want in a JFrame; small, light, black, has a hammer that's shrouded (I like having a hammer on my revolvers). The internal lock is something I can't live with. The lock is easily remedied, the hole left behind apparently isn't.

So I've been looking for alternatives today. Found a small plastic plug at the hardware store that fit perfectly and snapped in tightly. Unfortunately it sticks too far into the far and blocks the hammer. Cutting it won't work 'cause the frogs that hold it in place are mounted on far end of the plug (hard to describe).

Anyway, still looking.

Don't buy guns with silly holes in the side. If you have one, sell or trade it for one that doesn't.

Yes, this is a serious answer.

__________________
'Merica!

No offense man, I know you were trying to be helpful, but... I'm not selling my gun and buying a different one. Believe me, I'm sure we've all seen that answer before.

Since this appears to be a reoccuring theme, let me rephrase the question:

I'd like to find a secure, good looking, way to fill in the hole left by the removed internal lock ON THE GUN I OWN NOW...

Thanks.

Have not seen the magic duct tape mentioned.

To the OP thanks for asking, I've been thinking about the plug for my 629.

I could have swore there was a thread here somewhere that told how to tap the hole and place a screw in plug. But I can't find it. 6mm tap if I remember correctly. Although tapping the hole will be irreversible and may void warranty. Idk. Seems like they said you could get 2 full threads in the hole thow.

__________________
No gold. Only lead. Bobby

There is a thread here that shows a guy using a stainless steel machine screw or screw. There was no tapping involved as it was tappered and used a clip on the inside to hold it on place.
I could not find it using search but that don't mean a lot.

The "ultimate plug", at least for a steel frame, might be to have a revolver smith silver solder a short piece of stainless rod in the hole. Then, trim and finish. Would likely require that the hole be reamed to a standard rod size. The unthreaded portion of a bolt would do. This would probably only make sense if the gun were one not available in a pre lock model. Guess it wouldn't work for the OP'ers alloy frame.

Best,
Rick

Now that's funny right there. I don't care who you are