S&W Model 60 Pro J Frame 3"

lemondrop9344 · #1 02-01-2017, 05:17 PM

I am enamored with the wheel gun in caliber .357. Have a few L frames and when the wife decided she wanted her handgun... she decided the S&W Model 60 Pro was to her liking. She loves it, I am not sure what I think about it. Compared to the L frames, the length of the trigger pull seems to be inordinately long. My hands are considerably larger than hers & I have a great deal of difficulty pulling the trigger far enough rearward, in DA mode, to enable the little revolver to fire. She seems to have no difficulty with the trigger. While it's not my handgun, I believe it's a good practice for each of us to be familiar with the handguns we have. For me, this little revolver would be ideal in many respects if it were not for the length of the trigger pull. Is it me, or, should I contact S&W to discuss this issue.

wadcutter1 · #2 02-01-2017, 05:33 PM

It's probably you but I'm not sure I really understand what you mean when you say you have a hard time pull the trigger rearward. I have also XL hands and have no problem with my model 60. Do you mean the length of pull is too short? Bigger grips, which extend beyond the back strap, might help that but I wouldn't dare change the grips on my wife's gun.

My non-pro model 60 has the uncle Mike's boot grips, so that could be a difference. I love the fit and feel of mine.

Edit: Not boot grips. The full three finger type that are on the current production model

Groo01 · #3 02-01-2017, 05:38 PM

Groo here
Put on some Packmyre Decelators [the thin ones]

lemondrop9344 · #4 02-01-2017, 08:49 PM

The length of the pull seems exceptionally long. If I use the distal joint on my trigger finger, it is very difficult to get the trigger to move back far enough to index the cylinder and fire the gun. It's not that it requires and inordinate amount of force, just and inordinate amount of rearward movement. I find myself having to use the pad of the trigger finger to get the revolver to fire. While I understand the L frames & the J frames are considerably different in size, none of the L frames seem to require that much rearward movement of the trigger. Trying to figure out if it's my imagination, or, if there is a problem. While the wood grips on the Pro series look nice, for me they are not comfortable. After about 20 rounds, the wife wants to take a break. I think in her case, a different set of grips would help. I am not about to change grips on the wife's handgun without her approval.

g-dad · #5 02-01-2017, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lemondrop9344

The length of the pull seems exceptionally long. If I use the distal joint on my trigger finger, it is very difficult to get the trigger to move back far enough to index the cylinder and fire the gun. It's not that it requires and inordinate amount of force, just and inordinate amount of rearward movement. I find myself having to use the pad of the trigger finger to get the revolver to fire.

I'm definitely not an instructor but you should be using the pad of your finger and not the joint. Here's one excerpt from a training mag.

The position of your finger on the trigger is vitally important to shooting accurately consistently. Ideally, you want to place the trigger comfortably between the tip of your index finger and the first knuckle, using the middle, cushioned area of the fingerprint. This provides the best, most even surface from which to apply force straight back and limits the chances your pull will adversely affect the trajectory of your shots. By Jeffrey Denning in "Concentrate on your Finger: Trigger Control and What it Means to Accuracy"

Hope this help.

ofnsaz · #6 02-01-2017, 09:05 PM

I just looked at the trigger pull on my Model 60 vs 686+. Holding them next to a ruler, both require about 1/2" of pull. Don't know if that helps.

rrockefe · #7 02-01-2017, 09:55 PM

I found the wood grips on my Pro uncomfortable, also. 50 to 100 rounds of target stuff was my limit with considerable soreness. I put a set of Altamonts on it and can shoot it all day now w/o discomfort.

I use the crease of the first joint for trigger pull and sometimes feel the first pad is getting in the way. If so, I just straighten the finger a little. No problem then. I only shoot it double action.

sawlog · #8 02-01-2017, 11:16 PM

I have to 60 pro and love it I carry it everyday. I really like the factory grips. I use the first joint on my finger for he trigger too. There is a big difference in trigger weight using your pad vs joint. Maybe I have always been doing it wrong but im a good shot with it.
I'm left handed, if I have my Craig Spegel grips on it I have to straighten my finger a little bit because the pad of my finger gets in the way. The Spegel grips are pretty fat on the right side of the gun.

Raydog · #9 02-02-2017, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrockefe

I put a set of Altamonts on it and can shoot it all day now w/o discomfort.

What Altamont grips did you put on it?

SuperMan · #10 02-02-2017, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g-dad

I'm definitely not an instructor but you should be using the pad of your finger and not the joint. Here's one excerpt from a training mag.

The position of your finger on the trigger is vitally important to shooting accurately consistently. Ideally, you want to place the trigger comfortably between the tip of your index finger and the first knuckle, using the middle, cushioned area of the fingerprint. This provides the best, most even surface from which to apply force straight back and limits the chances your pull will adversely affect the trajectory of your shots. By Jeffrey Denning in "Concentrate on your Finger: Trigger Control and What it Means to Accuracy"

Hope this help.

He is describing Single Action shooting not DA... One uses the first joint to get better mechanical advantage...

I have a 60-10 that is the same gun w/o the IL...favorite gun for fishing/backpacking/boating... I have the Pachmayer Compacts on mine and have no problem shooting all the rounds I want out of it...

Bob

lemondrop9344 · #11 02-02-2017, 10:36 AM

Both the wife & I shoot double action. Need to see if the trigger pull is actually longer on the J frame vs. the L frame. If they are indeed the same, I am the problem. As the revolver is the wife's, it's more important she is happy. She has expressed some discomfort in her hand after about 30 rounds so we will be looking at a different set of grips.
With regards to trigger finger placement, lots of differing opinions from those with very good credentials on what works for them & why they believe it works. My research leads me to believe, when firing a double action revolver, the placement of the trigger in the distal joint provides the best results. Other opinions are welcome, but, that is what works for me with the L frames.
The 586 I have has a set of Hogue wooden grips. They are fuller than the pretty wooden grips which came with the revolver (purchased new). They are really comfortable for me. My 686+ has Crimson Trace laser grips (without finger grooves) which I also find very comfortable.
We both use .38 Spc. at the range & from time to time I send some .357's down range.
Further suggestions/comments welcome. I can learn something from everyone. Thanks

Bastogne71 · #12 02-02-2017, 11:40 AM

As near as I can measure the distance of the trigger travel on my M60 Pro is substantially the same as my M686 Pro. The big difference between them is in the length of pull. I measured the distance from the trigger face to the closest point on the back strap where the web of your hand fits. The L frame is bit over a half inch longer and with stock grips that cover the back strap, the difference is 0.6".
I think your XL hands are getting too cramped on the little J frame. Larger hand filling grips should help you but that's likely to make it hard for you wife to use.

gnystrom · #13 02-02-2017, 11:56 AM

I own that gun along with a few other j-frames. The Mod. 60 Pro went to my daughter a year back. Neither of us liked the wood grips and hers is now fitted with Crimson Trace LG 305's.

I am pretty sure the problem you are experiencing is you not the gun. As others have stated it is all about grip size. As an instructor, I don't spend a lot of time having myself or my students worry about how their finger is positioned on the face of the trigger, in fact if it is a carry gun, few if any will have the time to do things correctly in a seconds count situation. I use the first joint of my finger shooting all my DA guns because I think that is where it will wind up in an emergency.
Another great advantage to doing this method is the fact the trigger is much easier for anyone to draw rearward using the first joint. People smile when you tell them this is OK as long as they commit to practice.

If you only shooting paper at the range and want to impress the shooters next to you, disregard my thoughts.

My 2¢

Bill In Texas · #14 02-02-2017, 12:06 PM

The wood grips which come with the 60 Pro are very nice, but could use more of a palm swell. Some of the Altamont grips would possibly remedy that.

One thing it could be is the angle in which the gun is gripped. I find that with my J frames it can become harder to pull the trigger rearward if the gun moves upward in my hand. Another set of stocks could cure it, it that's the issue.

My 60 Pro has the Apex Duty and Carry Spring Kit in it. Makes it much easier to pull the trigger straight back without the gun moving in my hand. Hope this helps!

Lobster Picnic · #15 02-02-2017, 01:50 PM

If she is shooting 30 rounds of .357 using the wood grips, that is a lot of recoil. Most people practice with standard pressure .38 Special and then shoot maybe 5-10 rounds of .357.

I understand the need to be cross-trained on each others weapons, but it's not realistic to think each gun will fit each hand. There's a reason she chose the J-frame and you chose the L-frame.

LarryMNH · #16 02-02-2017, 02:39 PM

I have a very short trigger finger and my M60 3" is the perfect size for me to handle and shoot. S&W K frames are OK and feel pretty good. My N Frames have to be gripped just right for me to shoot them comfortably

I have a friend with fingers like an Orangutan and he does well with K and N frames. When he gets to the M60. He has to make sure his grip is just so or he has difficulty with the finale of the trigger pull being too close to the palm of his hand.

With my short fingers, it never occurred to me that a gun could possible be on the small side for anyone's hand until I watched my friend struggle with my J frame.

lemondrop9344 · #17 02-02-2017, 06:21 PM

Have come to the conclusion I have met the enemy............ and it's me. LarryMNH has observed the very problem I am describing. Both of my L frames have aftermarket grips which are larger than stock. By the way, we use .38 Spc. at the range. I want the wife to enjoy the little revolver, so, she only shoots .38 Spc. If it was going to be a gun I carried, bigger grips would be on the way. It's her gun, she picked it out, she likes it and I want Momma to be Happy. If Momma ain't happy, no one is happy. Thanks for all the input...I will stick to the L frames.

rrockefe · #18 02-02-2017, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raydog

What Altamont grips did you put on it?

I can't find the invoice so I can't identify the item number, but it was listed for the standard J model (not the bateleur now listed as an option) in Super walnut with finger grooves and checkered.

I sent them back for modification after while because during ejection the cases made contact with the grip (left side). They returned them to me, but the condition had not been improved. When I called again about this problem I was told they couldn't make the grip any thinner and I could return them for a refund. I didn't want to do that because I liked the fit so well. So, instead I slimmed the grip down myself with sandpaper and then put some tru-oil on it. Looks pretty good. They said their Pro model pattern was a .357, whereas mine was a .38 spec. only. They didn't have the problem. I wondered if the cylinder diameter on their pattern model as a .357 was larger, therefore putting the cases further away from the frame and grip upon ejection. Anyway mine had to be either thinned, or lowered through the area where the cases passed by the grip. They seem to work fine now and I wouldn't give them up!

Raydog · #19 02-03-2017, 06:29 AM

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to decide what grips to get for my 640.

That's interesting that the casings wouldn't eject.Your theory about the cylinder make sense. Glad you're happy with them.

M3Stuart · #20 02-03-2017, 12:23 PM

Short answer: palm swell in the grip. Get bigger grips.

...but now I see that you already figured that out...

mrchuck · #21 02-03-2017, 12:48 PM

My model 60-357 2 inch bbl is a daily carry inside my waistband.
It just feels right.
38 special hollow points and 357 magnums are my choice.
Yes, it recoils, but with any adrenaline in your system, it is not a problem at all.
My only complaint is it is a 5 shot.
My other carry is a Kel-Tec P-11 9mm Luger, which is 12 rounds!
And yes, it contains the hottest 9mm rounds I can find.
As an old retired LEO who has "been there when the chips were down",,,
I carry even in the house.