I have a model 66.2 and the cylinder wants to drag when I oipen it. Is there anything I can do to fix it. There doesn't seem to be any wear marks. Also is it safe? Thanks for any help. Mollyboy

Not sure exactly what you mean, but check the ejector rod to be sure is hasn't loosened.

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Detective Cobras Agents Oh My!

It is probably the ejector rod is loose or it has a burr that needs to be polished. It can also be debris under the star. Clean it out good under there.

Lube it with moly. If it's ok put some moly on the pin and ramp. Just a little. It makes it slick to open and slicker to close.

I bought a new model 60 Pro about 3 weeks ago and the cylinder was sticking. I tried the above suggestions and in my case, they didn't work. Without having fired one round out of it, I sent it back to S&W. I just got it back today. The packing slip said they replaced the bolt and the center pin. It seems a little better and maybe with some use it will free up a little more, but the cylinder still doesn't seem to swing as freely as my model 65 and model 629.

A new gun that is fresh and tight will have a sluggish cylinder on opening, it is just new and needs to be broken in by using it. Also, the yoke retention screw is the newer spring loaded kind, rather than the solid kind that wore in and offered no resistance to the cylinder opening, and that won't break in as it keeps a tension on the yoke. Possibly a little lubricant on the yoke shank might help a little.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

last month I bought a 15-3 off gun broker that had the cylinder drag the forcing cone in a spot. The prior owner had dropped it and upset some metal on the bullet side of the cylinder. That upset metal just kissed the forcing cone causing a sticky area when you shot it.

I took a stone and dressed that upset area and the stickiness went away. The cylinder to forcing cone gap on that gun is a just shy of
.005" and it didn't take much of a ding to have the cylinder and forcing cone touch each other.

When you say, "There isn't any wear marks.".....I say yes there is .....someplace. Check by loosening the yoke retention sideplate screw one turn and try the opening/closing of the cylinder. If that eases the situation remove that screw and paint the end of it with Dykem or a MarksALot pen. Then put it back in and tighten it as much as S&W did. Open the cylinder twice and then take the screw out and look for wear marks. You can at the same time paint the end of the ejector rod at the locking end and look that over for the same symptoms. The cure is to mechanically reduce the metal to metal interference that is going on. This should be no big deal.

I have a 686-3 National Match that exhibits a similar condition - the cylinder is "sticky" to release and be swung out - but only when two adjacent chambers are aligned with the forcing cone. That sounds like something is bent to me but there is clearance between those two parts and the ejector rod sure looks straight. I was going to send it back to S&W for repairs but never have - any thoughts?

Ed