So today I ran in to another Performance Center Talo 586 L-Comp at a good price; I bought it but it is still at the dealer as I have until Tuesday to decide to take it home or get a refund.**

Here's the thing, it has pretty nice double action, but at the very end of the stroke it sort of stacks up just a little before the hammer falls. The manager at the store agreed with me on that although as he stated, most people wouldn't pick up on it. It is not staging, but a slight binding before release.

So I call TK Custom in Illinois, talk to a smith, and I say, "Can you guys release that little hitch in the stroke if I buy this?" Well of course they're understandably not going to fully commit to solving a problem they have not seen.

So, my sense is, go ahead and take it home Tuesday, TKC will work out that little hitch. After all, I would send it to them anyway to get a polish, stoning, and fitting of contact parts. AM I RIGHT? Do you share my belief that a late stroke stacking glitch is easily solvable by a master revolver smith?
THANKS!!!!!


**I'm buying a 2nd 586 L-Comp for practice once the actions are identical; the first 586 remains primary out-of-uniform carry and I'm qualified with it at my agency. I do the same thing with agency mandated Glocks. The one I carry in uniform gets a monthly function/fire check, a professional function check/inspection annually, and 100 rounds through in the Spring because it must be qualified with annually. But I have a second Glock 35 for the range and for training, and by having the second identical weapon just for training, I don't worry about abuse or a high round count.

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What's the advantage to training with a weapon that you aren't going to carry ?

Yes. You are correct that this is an issue easily corrected. It has to do with the thickness of the hand that pushes up on the back of the cylinder. I am NOT a gunsmith and have corrected this with only a good stone on 2 of my Smiths. Since you will be sending it to TK for other work, let those with the proper training do it for you. Some here are going to tell you to fire it 300-400 times and it will smooth out. It won't. The metal is too hard to wear that easily. If you want to wait 3000-4000 rounds, maybe. There is a very well written sticky in the Gunsmithing forum that describes the problem and how to correct it.

1. Murphy's Law. 2. Same as with the Glock on the original post. You are training with an identical weapon presuming you have done the work to get their respective actions identical. With your training weapon, you can shoot the heck out of it, dry fire it endlessly, keep it relatively clean, and not worry that a worn part will fail in the field when you need it most. Your carry weapon you put 1,000 rounds through initially; if it runs flawlessly, then clean it, function check it, then continue to function check it periodically.

I justify my approach particularly due to the amount of rounds I send down-range (see next paragraph), and the accompanying wear on weapons that represents. With a designated identical training weapon, your not tracking rounds and going, "Man, that's about 12,000 rounds through this thing, I also carry this, I wonder if I should have it gone over?" In other words if it breaks, I want it to be on the range or in competition.

Today I purchased two cases 2,000 rounds (40 boxes of 50 rounds) of American Eagle .38 Special; I do the same thing on the internet for the semi-auto ammo I buy at MidwayUSA.

I hoped to post this thread without justification and getting in to my OCD owing to my unresolved conflict over toilet-training in my infancy :-). Below is a pic of 3 of my 4 Fourth Gen Glocks under a 1911, but only one Glock ever sees the duty holster. I buy new magazines every other year too.

Now, about that question I asked?

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Answered in post #3

Indeed. Thank you!

Is the 1911 a Wilson?

__________________
CSM, U S Army(Ret) 1963-1990

Yes Sir. 9mm X-Tac. Also bought a CQB Elite in .45.

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The new 66-8 I got today (and am sending back for a clocked barrel ....) has the same problem. On that front, though, I figured I was gonna have an action job done on it, anyway, before I even got it, to match the action on my 686 Plus PC. The pull feels like close to 15 pounds. You get one stage, wait for the next, but the pull becomes a bit harder, then the hammer falls. Same thing, yes?

I've got the exact same problem with my new 442.

I'm having a hard time finding that sticky. I only see 3 sticky threads, and I read through the FAQ thread twice and didn't see it. Would you be willing to link it? Thanks in advance.

This one's pull is probably eleven pounds and doesn't start stacking until the end of the cycle, and it is very slight. The staging is normal on this weapon.

Here it is:
Observation and question about “stacking” trigger pull (Observation and question about “stacking” trigger pull)

Here's another explanation you may find useful:

(Just a little advice sought on smoothing the action)

I have had that same firearm for about three years and it is easily my favorite revolver. I noticed my local LGS has one on the floor for $1139.

I agree. For narrow profile and concealability, IWB capable, good action out of the box, moon clips, I've upgraded the worthless stock tritium with an XS Systems night sight, ability to handle hot .357 Magnum, it is the best all-around revolver I've ever owned. I do shoot just slightly better with my PC 627 UDR (pictured above in first post), but I have to be at 25 yards to tell the difference. I think the N frame fits my hands just a little better.