I think my new 686 is a great gun except that the double action trigger pull just plain sucks. It is heavy and not at all smooth. I am thinking about trying a woff spring set. Has anyone had any luck improving the trigger this way? I will send it back to S&W for a action job if I have to. but hoping this whole lot cheaper way will work.

Yep, I run Wolff springs in all my N frames. I run the reduced power mainspring and around 12-13 lb rebound slide spring in all my N frames. The double action trigger isn't feather light but is smooth and the single action triggers break around 2 1/2 lbs or so and break like a glass rod. I've had no problems with light hammer strikes using the Wolff springs.

I also but a 12 lb rebound slide spring on my wife's 60-15 and the single action trigger on it is even nicer than on my N frames. One thing I did have to do on the 60-15 was to stone lightly on the rebound slide. When I took it down to install the rebound slide spring I saw that MIM rebound slide had some sharp edges (like flashing almost) and it needed to be smoothed a bit. I simply used the finest stone in my Lansky knife sharpener kit to clean it up.

I know not the first thing about Wolff springs----and would have very likely misspelled the name if I hadn't had a little help.

That said, I have recently installed the Miculek S&W Revolver Spring Kit----and it works GREAT!! The revolver in question was a beater M&P, bought new in 1920, and carried daily in the hip pocket of my father-in-law's overalls for 45 years. It had been well and truly messed with by a butcher somewhere along the way---such that I started with a 22 lb. DA trigger pull. (It had what appeared to be a stock S&W hammer spring in it, and a VERY stout trigger return spring (which was apparently selected only by the fact it would fit in the hole).

The Miculek kit contains what appears to be a stock S&W mainspring, and what (also) appears to be a lighter than stock trigger return spring. I have not taken any measurements (wire diameter, etc.) to compare with stock. The mainspring has been altered significantly, in that it has been bent approximately 45 degrees forward about 3/8-1/2" down from the top. I have no idea what this bend does nor why it does it. I posed that question in the Gunsmithing section, and received no significant response (as of last time I looked).

The installation calls for setting the DA pull at 7 lbs (via less than complete seating of the strain screw), measuring the amount the screw stands off from the frame, and shortening the screw accordingly (.080" in my case)---and then seating it completely. I followed the instructions, and ended up with 7 lbs DA pull (smooth as silk), and a much improved SA pull I haven't measured.

The instructions caution against use of the kit (at the 7 lb. setting) in a defensive handgun---and calls for use of Federal ammo/primers. I had only WW ammo. It goes BANG every time---DA!

And it's dirt cheap---although I can't answer the question of "Compared to what?"

Ralph Tremaine

I tried the Wolff reduced main springs with both 13# then 14# rebound trigger springs. Both produced light primer strikes, maybe 1-2 out of a 7 shot cylinder in my 686-6 plus. I just replaced back the stock main springs and haven't been back to the range with the stock main springs and 14#trigger springs.

The lighter rebound spring will help in reducing your single action pull. Don't go too light or you will have problems with the trigger return being too slow.

The Wolfe mainspring is lighter than the factory spring and will reduce your double action pull. You can still get the trigger down to about 9 lbs with no other work.

If you know what to stone and how to do it you can get a 7 lb trigger that will reliably ignite your primers.

By playing with springs and judicial polishing I was able to get my gun down to 6 lbs.

If you send it back to Smith for an Action Job you will get a very smooth trigger and don't have to worry about primers.

I like Wolff springs; the standard power mainspring is still a touch lighter than factory, and to my hand linear in its tension wind-up -- no stack, perfectly even resistance throughout pull.

Per Wolff's strong recommendation, I don't use their reduced power versions as all my revolvers are defense tuned.

Suggest buying a couple of fresh strain screws and fitting them to any new mainspring so they become a pari, rather than using the factory original with new springs -- you'll save yourself some extra tuning this way.

The bend reduces the mainspring's overall tensile strength as well as starting resistance when installed, hence reducing trigger pull weight.

I have used wolff spring kits in my S&W revolvers for over thirty years. J-frames seem to benefit the most, but the larger frame guns triggers will become much easier to pull. Smoothness probably trumps weight of pull and that involves polishing internals but that discussion rages on.
If you feel the least bit unsure of doing a YouTube trigger job yourself and you really appreciate your firearm, I would send it to S&W and you will have the joy of proclaiming the factory did a master action job. Notice I did not say the factory changed the springs. They did a "action Job". Big difference.

Your other option is seeking a private gunsmith and having them do a "Action Job". Ask what they do, and how they do it. Check with your local LGS and they may guide you.

Leave the main spring as is unless your chasing the ultimate light trigger and /or are willing to shoot only Federal Ammo/primers. Do try a 14 or 15# trigger return spring and some mild polishing of the internals (with mothers mag polish) and you be very pleased with the results. Lots of info here (and on youtube) on how to do it.

__________________
Dave

There's some truth to this if a Wolff reduced power mainspring is used; if the Wolff standard power is used, it'll pop everything provided the rest of the revolver is in proper order.