hiya, guys.
with your advice n help, i found a m15 in my price range.
it's kinda beat up, but it's a real smith n wesson.
got a problem tho. it doesn't come with a manual.
the s&w site doesn't list a manual.
for you, this would be no problem, but i've never so much as held a double action.
any tips would be welcome. stuff everybody knows isn't stuff i know.
can i carry 6, or do i leave an empty chamber under the hammer?

i know how to clean a gun, but this gun was carried by a florida prison guard.
the seller says barrel n lock up are great, but who knows how gunked up the internals are.
so, how much can i take it apart without springs jumping out at me?
i don't wanna touch the internals, but i wanna look at them n maybe flood them with break free to carry off whatever gunk is in there.
also, what needs lubrication?
i run my guns dry. the high plains are very arid. rust won't happen, but lube can attract sand.
so, what needs oil?

take me by the hand n teach me, please.

susie

Just go to the S&W web site and download the online manual called "Revolvers - Modern Style."

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore...12-15-2014.pdf

That will provide basic operational details and what to do about cleaning, etc. The S&W action has only changed, from a non-gunsmith/user standpoint, in minor ways since 1899.

thanks, shawn.
i saw ''modern revolvers'' but i thot those were a certain model.

Groo here
To clean the internals, get some K=1 clear kerosene.
Remove grips and soak for 24hrs , hang up to drip dry or blow out with air.
This will get things started[ my old gunsmith called this a 50 cent action job.
Brush barrel and cylinder chambers [ a bore snake works well dry]
Unless the gun is OLD or a Colt or clone single action, most guns
[ Your M-15 included ] can be safely carried with all chambers loaded.

perfect, groo !
i'll get kerosene when i pick up the gun.
i wasn't looking forward to any disassembly.

6 rounds is cool. my only experience with revolvers is with SAAs.
that's why i asked.
thanks, both of you. i think i can deal with this gun, now.

k =1 is a brand?

WD-40 will work just as well as kerosene. That's basically what it is, anyway. It's just a more convenient in a aerosol spray can.

__________________
~ S&W aficionado in training ~

Groo here
K-1 is the grade of oil, most refined .
Usually used in lamps and inside heaters.
Clear is no dye that indicate for off road use[no road taxes]
Usually find in camping stores in 1gal can [plenty]
Get a bucket or can with a top as you can reuse many times.
Then use the dirty stuff to start the trash/cookout fire.
I like this as WD-40 will evaporate with time and K-1 is more "oily]
PS WD-40 was developed to clean.lube.and displace water in electronic cable plugs.
It is more like the old TV tuner cleaner.
PPS for a very light oil that is "cheep" Get Marvel Mystery oil [at car parts store]

what size bore brush do you you use for cylinders?
i got a 38 brush but i forgot something wider.

groo, is that the same as coleman lantern fuel?
i have that.

Groo here
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Colman lantern fuel is White Gas..
That is very fine gas with NO extra stuff," Stops fuel line freeze up" LOL
K-1 is No-1 Diesel fuel that is most clean and dead clear.
Road diesel is "straw" [aka yellow] and off road No-1 and No-2 diesel
is red [ Known as "Dyed Diesel" and has no road taxes for tractors and such]
K-1 is for "wick" type lamps [some call hurricane lamps] and kerosun heaters

Coleman fuel is basically a refined "white" gasoline. Don't use it. It's not the same thing as kerosene or WD-40. Coleman fuel is highly flammable and therefore dangerous for normal cleaning, especially indoors.

__________________
~ S&W aficionado in training ~

k, good to know. i'll go to the lumberyard n get kerosene.
i wanna do this right.
i love not having to open it up.

You can rap a piece of patch around the brush for chambers,
I would think the throats [ smaller part ] and the barrel use a bore
brush.
The chambers will need little brush work and a wet tight fit
patch will do nicely.

I soak my pistols and revolvers in plain drugstore rubbing alcohol, 70 or 90% then blow them out with an air hose, then clp and blow them out again. Works great and no smell and no residue.

chambers need little brush work? centerfire must be different.
wow! in my single 10, 22lr, most all the dirt is in the chambers, hardly any in the barrel.
i have rubbing alcohal. does it work as good as kerosene?

Groo here
Susieqz
WE NEED UPDATES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sorry groo.
no updates possible until the fbi decides if i'm a terrorist or felon.
the last time i d id the check, it took 2 minutes.
this is quite upsetting. who are they to tell me i can't have my gun?
i'd cancel this whole thing but i spent more than the cost of the gun on ammo to test.

at least, i got to inspect the gun. bluing is not bad for a weapon carried daily. barrel n chambers are great. locks up tight.

buying all that ammo to test was stupid. i can't hit anything with iron sights anyway n now i can't afford a red dot.
the m15 seems thicker than my single 10 so i'll probably need a new holster too.

the m15 is like my other guns. the cost of the gun itself is a small part of the package.

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susie

Take it to a gunsmith or knowledgeable person that will demonstrate the proper method to take the side plate off and cleaning.

taking the side plate off scares me.
when is that necessary?

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susie

It is "necessary" to remove the side plate if the revolver is non-functional and you need to diagnose the problem/fix the problem. You do not need to routinely remove the side plate.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Hi Suzie:

Adding a red dot sight to a Model 15 will probably be costly. Unless it is already set up for it by a previous owner, you're going to have to have the top strap drilled and tapped for rings and/or a rail.

Instead, you might want to consider a set of laser grips. Crimson Trace makes laser grips that will fit your revolver. You have a K-framed S&W revolver:

Laser Sights for S&W (Smith and Wesson) | Official Crimson Trace

You can often find used laser grips at decent prices on the online auction sites for used merchandise.

I have laser grips for my J and K-frame revolvers, and they work very well.

Good luck,

Dave

I appreciate the kerosene tip by others; but the same thing can more easily be done with an aerosol can of "Breakfree CLP" from W-Mart, about $5; two cans of compressed air, $4 ea., for cleaning computer keyboards, (no water like most air compressors).... same store.

First of all, cock and lower the hammer a few times to get a feel for how the action is. More later on as to why. I DO NOT dry-fire revolvers, no matter how many times I am told it is okay on a Smith. That choice is yours.

Remove the grips. If like most L E guns, (rubber) sling into nearest gully. NO, wait. First revolver ? probably no proper S&W grips lying around ?

Go to forum WTB section, post in LARGE letters; "I HATE RUBBER GRIPS ON MY NEW TO ME FIRST K FRAME SMITH ! CAN ANYONE HELP ME FIND THE PROPER GRIPS" ??? I expect it is a square butt, but check and see, and include that info.

You will get offers from all corners of the Smith forum to send you a set FREE. ???... WHY ? Two strong reasons. First: we like new Smith & Wesson people, and second: every S&W forum member alive likes the idea of a woman that likes guns and shooting ! (As long as it is not their cross-eyed, recently divorced, ex. Or perhaps in the case of our distaff members, "that heifer who stole my second husband").

In fact, if the gun is square butt, I will send you a set myself. (use P M)

Alright now to the gist of the matter. Cock the hammer, fill the cavity between hammer and frame with C L P; repeat. Lower the hammer, turn the revolver up-side down, fill the cavity beside the trigger with C L P. Repeat.
Cock the hammer again, upside down again, fill cavity beside cocked trigger with C L P.

By now, C L P should be running down your elbows, a little in your eyes, tonight's dinner of lasagna should have a taste and smell of bananas, uumm and the revolver internals flooded.
Get the nozzle of the C L P in the grip frame and squirt the flat hammer spring near where it stirrups onto the hammer. Give the hammer a little more too.

Lower the hammer, (can't open a S&W cylinder with hammer cocked),open cylinder, push open the extractor,with the extractor rod, hold, and fill with C L P. Work extractor in and out several times.
Cock the hammer, you will have to push the cylinder button opposite direction from when you opened the cyl.;to cock it with the cyl. opened.

Place revolver butt end down, barrel straight up , and squirt the C L P in the slotted opening where the ratchet hand protrudes from the frame. Some in the firing pin hole of the frame won't hurt either, and down in beside the cyl locking lug.

Fill each charge hole, and the barrel with C L P;..... humm; revise C L P purchase advice to TWO cans.

Now, if any area on that revolver has escaped a solid dose of C L P, give it some. Don't forget the adjustable rear sight. It may have to move also. Ok, lower hammer and cylinder back in.
Hammer will lower with no manipulations of the cylinder release button.
(Don't push the cylinder back in the frame with the hammer cocked.)

Now, think back to the original feel of cranking back that hammer and lowering it. You should feel a marvelous change in the lubricity and fluid feeling of the action.

Pull off enough wax paper to wrap around the gun several times to seal in the CLP; take that old ragged towel you meant to throw out the last time you used it and bundle your new baby, (like a new baby) and put away for a few days, (while waiting for all those free grips to arrive)

Find a place in the yard where you don;t want any grass to grow, (same with the kerosene method), unwrap your prize, ahh,...just feel that action.
Butter on ice will seem like a gravel road in comparison.
Commence to use your air cans to blow away all the C L P you can, don't worry, you won't ever blow it all away.
The caution about the grass. While the amount of visual blurry-ness, from all that you got in your eyes, will go away, maybe even before you get ready to shoot again, too much of a soaking is a little deadly on grass.

Disclaimer.... Use the air cans as straight up and down as possible and do not shake the can like most aerosols. The two actions of up-side down and shaking the can, seem somehow to make a mist of something wet ? .

Clean the charge holes and barrel in the accepted method. Install NEW grips; ready for the FUN part of all this.

Your mdl. 15 is .38 special only, and a fine target gun. I no longer reload so I would start off shooting factory 148 grain, hollow-base wad-cutters for likely the best accuracy to be found in a four inch revolver. Six incher too.

I have NO vested interest in the C L P company, (Safariland I think), and I sold my W-Mart stock years ago. And, I am serious about the grips,(if ya want em) as I have been gifted stuff a time or two by forum members......"Salt of the earth they are".......(mostly)

__________________
wanna do right-- not right now

In reading over the suggestions to learn ways to do things better in cases like the O Ps; I see a suggestion to soak the revolver in alcohol.

I use a cotton ball of alcohol sometimes to prep / de-grease a LITTLE spot, but regular old drug store "rubbing alcohol" is 70 percent isopropyl alcohol, and 30 percent WATER , in combination with whatever else is in it.

A quick exterior wipe I would do; a total immersion ?, I don't think I want to do that, no matter how much lubricant flushing afterwards I can do.

__________________
wanna do right-- not right now

Groo here
Sue, as you can read, there are a number of ways to clean a revolver without taking it apart.
What ever you have access to , and feel comfortable with will be fine.
PS. UPDATES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Susie:

By the way, I should add as no one else has to this point, the Model 15 is renowned for its accuracy. Back in the days when S&W gave names to their products, the Model 15 was known as "The Combat Masterpiece":

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_%26_Wesson_Model_15

I've very often heard/read it referred to as "a target gun that think's it's a field/cop's gun".

Regards,

Dave

well, i just talked to the ffl guy. since the feds have done nothing, he can't gimmie my gun til thursday. grrr.
now i wish i had waited for the gunshow.
i could've got a gun in minutes with no govt messing me around.

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susie

Best advice is to take it to a competent gunsmith (or dealer if he seems to know what he's doing) and get him /her to demonstrate use and care of your new revolver. K1, mineral spirits, etc., will work but a big bottle of Hoppes solvent is better and smells nice.

Here's a pdf of the Model 15 original manual. The model 15 is an excellent shooting revolver as is it's stainless steel twin, the Model 67.

Attached Files

Smith & Wesson Model 15 Revolver Manual.pdf (1.12 MB, 142 views)

thanks tons for the manual, sully. i really needed it.

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susie

Suzie, when you are ready to take your Combat Masterpiece out to shoot, I would suggest that you start out shooting it single action. Shooting with the sights single action is the best way to get shooting accurately. 99% of the time, I shoot all of my revolvers single action, rarely do I shoot double action unless I am shooting a PPC type match.

Also, while your Combat Masterpiece can shoot almost every flavor of 38 Special, I would strongly suggest that you try shooting 38 Special wadcutters until you get a good feel for your revolver. Make certain to save your spent brass, because there is a very good chance that you will start reloading your own target ammo.

__________________
Judge control not gun control!

YAY ! I GOT MY ADORABLE GUN !!
driving to town hurt my back so i only fired 6 rounds so i could dry fire, but i can give you my thots so far.
i'd love to post a pic to show off but it's beyond my capabilities.
but, i could email a pic to one of you who could post it for me.
this would be a great kindness. see, the grips are a problem. they are checkered, which i don't like n they are plastic, which i hate.
but, they are plow handle grips. .they fit me perfectly n that's what i want. the exact same grips in pretty wood.
but, no one sells those. maybe, if people see these, someone might know where i could get them.

now, to the m15.
the barrel n cylinders are perfect. looks unfired. it has more holster wear than i've ever seen, but no rust.
if it bugs me, i have naval jelly n i can just eliminate the bluing.
burnished steel is nicer than stainless anyway.
i was worried about rust because the gun comes from florida. it was a turn in from tomoka correctional institution in daytona.

here's the amazing thing. it has the best trigger i've ever tried.
i've read the term ''like breaking glass'' but now i know what it means.
this may be the best trigger in this state.
are all s&ws like this? or just old ones?

anyway, with this trigger my gun is worth investing in.
i had intended to get the pull lightened n maybe find a longer hammer so i could thumb it better, but now i won't.
i will do nothing that might disturb this perfect trigger.

sunday is my gun play day so then i'll tell you about accuracy, but my results won't be definitive.
see, i screwed up.
everyone told me that wadcutters are most accurate, but i can't afford them. so, i bot every single type of affordable ammo i could find.
i was gonna test to find one brand that gave me precision.
but now, i can't. i spent more on ammo than the gun cost.
now i can't afford a mount n red dot. midway has one that fits, they say.
i can't hit anything with iron sights. i gotta have a dot,
their mount accepts a fastfire. it's not my fav, but i can work with it n it lets me use a holster.
anyway, i won't be able to tell you how accurate this gun is for months, but with this trigger it's gonna be match quality unless there's something wrong with the barrel i can't see.
thanks tons for your help in getting me this wonderful weapon.

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susie

Susie;
I'll add my welcome to our forum, and my congratulations on your acquisition of one of the finest .38s the world has ever seen. Lots of good advice above, please do keep us updated on your progress with it. Pictures and a range report are musts !
Oops, looks like you came back just ahead of this post. Thanks again !

Good shooting,
Larry

no pics unless somebody helps me.....

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susie

SuzueQ:
Once you've gotten used to shooting a Model 15, you will be permanently spoiled for any other brand, or for many other Smiths. Since yours has a good trigger, don't mess with it.
You might look at eBay for grips, at least to get an idea what's out there, and look at the classifieds on this site for good pics and descriptions of grips so that you get a good idea of what you're looking for and and how it is described. E.g., " k frame square butt target, etc..."
Do save your brass for potential reloading. Also check around in whatever groups / ranges you shoot with. There may be somebody trustworthy who will reload for you, with you providing the powder, brass, and projectiles and a couple cents a round for the labor. Be careful there, tho, to get somebody really careful and trustworthy.
You have a really fiine revolver--enjoy it!

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de minimus non curat lex

ii thot i found a reloader but he can no longer afford the insurance.
no clubs nearby. this area is very rural. nontheless, i'll save the brass..
is it only the older guns that have great triggers?

i've looked all over at grips but it seems plow handles aren't popular.

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susie

Check to see if you're name is on the "No Fly List"

Which version of the Model 15 are you looking to buy?

I recently bought a 85%+ shooter grade 15-6 for $175.

After replacing the buggered screws,tool marked 0% bluing ejector rod plus replacing a pair of worn out Pachmayr rubber grips with Super Rosewood Altamont combats for less than a $100,I can now shoot it proudly at my local gun range.

Oh,I also replaced the filed down rear sight blade and removed the yellow paint that covered the front sight.

Here's to good shooting when you get yours.

__________________
NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

The wood grips you are looking for, which would be the correct originals for an early Model 15, are called Magnas for a square K frame revolver. They are available everywhere including Ebay, Amazon, and from Smith and Wesson.

SuzieQ-
I too recently purchased a Model 15-4 that was a turn in from Tomoka Correctional Institution. We probably bought it from the same place. Mine came very clean on the outside with the barrel and cylinders spotless. It had rubber Hogue grips which I replaced with Pachmyr Presentation Grips. They fit my hand better.
I took off my sideplate for a cleaning and lube not knowing what if any maintenance had been done to it. I found that they had used a lot of grease to lubricate the inner workings. It was clean and appeared fairly fresh. I cleaned all the grease out and lubricated everything with CLP. That probably wasn't necessary but was my preference just to know everything was perfect. Just like yours, my pistol has a trigger that is amazing. I have only shot 50 reloads through it so far but it is very accurate and a joy to shoot.
I hope you enjoy your new pistol!! Congrats!

thanks, guys. i'll get new grips because this gun deserves them.
today i learned that i can shoot 38s from an all steel gun without hurting my elbow, duelist stance.
the same is not true for 9mm from a plastic gun.
that one i sold.
i also tried snake shot. got a 6'' circle at 6'.
this is great. 22lr shot shells are worthless.
i've spent 2500 rounds trying to learn point shooting but i still can't hit a snake head 10 out of 10, from the hip.
this 15 is great.
wayne says he's gonna post a pic of my gun for me. i emailed it to him.

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susie

Susie, that wonderful trigger is not an anomaly. The sweetest trigger I've ever encountered on any firearm was on a 1970 15-3. Absolutely splendid revolver.

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Oh well, what the hell.

does wonderful- triggeritis extend to model 14s too?
i' thinking all my future purchases should be older s&ws, if i can get this kinda trigger.

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susie

I like the 6" Model 14-2 and 14-3 6" guns Target Masterpieces almost as much as the 4" Model 15 Combat Masterpieces.

The K frame Models 14 and 15 are excellent shooters but next you should try an N frame.

__________________
NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

which n frame?

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susie

Here's a pic of Suzie's gun:

__________________
- Post No Bills -

thank you patriot.
i am still not finding wood grips in this shape.
s&w has something like them, but $82 n it looks like plywood.
kinda high for plywood.

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susie

Groo here
Sue,
If you really are serious about target shooting and you like the shape of the rubber grip look for Roper grips.
One of the best is Herrett [http://www.herrettstocks.com]
You send them a drawing of your hand and the grips are made to fit YOU.

groo, i went there but got a CORRUPTED FILE message.
if you look at my pic, those are really like SAA plow handle grips, i think.
i'd like to duplicate them exactly, but in pretty wood.
a gun with a great trigger deserves wood, but i'll keep the ugly rubber if i can't get the same shape.
i can sand off any checkering if i have to.

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susie

The keeping the empty chamber applied to single action guns. Modern, good quality double action guns have safety features built in. Even newer single actions have some hammer stops to prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer if the gun is dropped.

Beat up doesn't matter, it's what's inside that counts.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Smith and Wesson revolvers. I'll wager that you won't stop here.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

i doubt i'll stop.
this isn't the most expensive gun i bot, but it is the finest quality.
i'm in love with this trigger.

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susie