Recently bought a new 642 Airweight, like within the last month recently. Have probably only put maybe 75 rounds through it, usually use it as a pocket carry. Just cleaned it today and have noticed some flaking on the frame. I don't know if it's just a preservative coating or if I got a bad frame? Is this a normal thing for new J frames?

Thanks in advance for the help and info.

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Apparently I didn't do enough searching and have found other threads about this. So it's just a known issue with these guys apparently. Kind of a bummer but still love the gun. PS anyone know how I can just delete this thread?

Hi! Welcome to the Forum. Always great to have new members and especially those who like J-frames!

This is an ongoing concern. Some members have 642s with frames with a more fragile finish and others like myself who do not have this problem. I believe there are different "generations" or compounds of finish which may explain why some guns suffer from finish degradation.

One of my 642s has a area about 1/4" square on the sideplate where the finish has rubbed off. That's it. My other 642s: no such problem. The finish on my 342, however, flaked off from application of GunScrubber, the only true finish problem I have incurred. Hope this helps a little.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I bought a 442 because they look better to me and don't have the peeling problem.

Call Smith & Wesson. I worked at a few Gun Shops that sent 642s in for repair. Some were replaced.

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Two Handguns every day

Newer Smith guns have finish problems that reflect cheap production methods.

Pealing is a common problem.

Luckily, it doesn't impact performance.

Don't worry about it: if you want to preserve the finish, don't use your gun.

You may ask: why buy it if you can't use it?

If you just want to admire your gun, you can't carry it.

Luckily, I don't think the newer Smiths are 'admiring' guns.

Most work great (especially the j frames) so I don't have to appreciate them for their beauty: i appreciate them for their usefulness, even if the finish is lousy.

mine is doing the same thing. i don't get concerned about it. i'm not going to sell it so i'll live with it.

This has been an issue for over 10 years now and S&W has done nothing to improve it. I know the guns still function and are priced to sell, but I doubt anybody here would gripe about an extra 10 bucks added to the price of the gun to have a finish that doesn't peel. I had a 642 back in 2005 that was sent back twice for a refinish. I even had a seperate cleaning kit so no trace of hoppes # 9, which I was told to avoid, could touch it. It still peeled.

A respected company like S&W should not be selling a product with such a fragile finish. I maintain all of my weapons and it just bugged me seeing those peeling spots all along the back of the gun and in the trigger guard.

If i was running the show at S&W i would say we need to find something else to use on the 642 or just stop putting this "coating" on it because it does not "protect" anything and i'm tired of the complaints!

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Chewy

I'm wondering if there's more to this problem than just a bad coating process? Any specifics on what cleaning products or environmental conditions are involved? Reason I ask is that my 642 has been pocket-carried daily for over a year, fired way more than 1000 rounds and the finish is still factory new. FWIW, I only use One-shot to clean and lube it.

It really surprises me that a "hard coat anodized" finish would do what is shown. Evidently either the finish S&W is using or the alloy of the frame are not compatible with each other. I shot archery for years with Easton aluminum arrows with various anodized finishes, and never had any of these problems.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I thought all they did was to put a clear coat over the anodize? And depending on how it cured you had peal or no peal.

My father has a 642 he bought to shoot halibut and kings with in AK. (they calm down then so you can get them in the boat) It never pealed but where the clear coat got dinged it does have brine pitting corrosion. I don't know which is worse.

FWIW in 06 I bought a 442 because I wanted a more subdued look and I guess I lucked out.

I'm beginning to wonder why this finish issue rears it's ugly head with the 642, and NOT with the 637 or 638. Probably a lot more 642s are sold, but no finish problems with the other 2? I doubt their finish is applied any differently than that of the 642.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Here is my uneducated,unprofessional experience with the subject matter---take it for what it is worth----Been buying Airweights, All varieties since about 2002 or 2003. The only other Airweight I ever owned was a model 37 chief's special back in 1965(sure wish I still had that one)--anyway back to my tale--the first purchase made in 2002 was a 637.It flaked, it had become my wifes carry gun, she loves it, she will not part with it, I used fingernail polish remover and took off the remaining coating. She still carries it every day, and will not part with it. I have purchased other 637's,638's 642's and every one of them flaked just like the original poster here. One or two of them NEVER had a drop of cleaner or even gun oil used on them. So here is the thing--I don't understand why we have the problem--meaning I do not understand why S&W permits the issue to continue. We all know that it could be "fixed" permananently--but they haven't and won't. Yet in spite of all this negativity the Airweight continues to be S&W's bread and butter product, and S&W cannot make enough of them and we all LOVE them. I have found that the black finish on the carbon steel 442 that I pocket carry every day, seems to be more durable, except for the traditional "bluing" wear on the muzzle edges. The part out of all these issues that really frustrates me really bad is WHY after almost 13 or 14 years of producing these 637,638, 642 series of very popular products--S&W still refuses to openly admit that there is a problem and provide us with a product that does not have THE problem.

Good info. this. So it looks like acetone does a job on the finish? I wonder what else might affect it?

If it is a clearcoat (which it very likely is) any hot solvent will attack it like gunscrubber, acetone, carb cleaner, non chlorinated brake cleaner, etc. It has no business being on a gun frame.

GunScrubber peeled off the KlearKote on my 342, but it has never affected my other aluminum frame Js. A different finish, perhaps?

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Mine started flaking off so I washed the coating off with acetone. Looks much better now.

After multiple queries without response from the factory, I finally got fed up and stripped all the clear coat finish off my 342 using Shooters Choice MC7, and my fingernails (not much fun). Esthetically, the result was worth the effort, though the bare aluminum alloy is now supposed to be susceptible to discoloring corrosion from any prolonged contact with solvents containing ammonia. So, I don't let that happen. Been about 6 months and so far, so good.

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CA is a great state to be FROM

I've been lucky with my 642s...

I still own the bottom one and there is no indication of flaking. The top one sheared off the trigger pivot pin and when to that J frame range in the sky, but never showed any flaking either.

Edmo

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TRUTH: Don't delete my posts!

I have, or have had, (2) 342Ti's and (2) 642's, never an issue with any of them. Oh, except the frame crack on my first 642.

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Sure you did

MPro makes pretty good cleaners that are inert and don't stink to boot. If the coating is gone you can use brake cleaner and the usual solvents. Just don't get it on the sights.

It seems as long as I wipe off all surfaces when done, cleaners containing ammonia have not yet done my 342 wrong. I'm also careful to avoid leaving any under the grips.

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CA is a great state to be FROM

I've no issues with my 642 by way of finish. I knew already about some of the problems with it so I've not used any ammonia based cleaners on it.

I use only copper jacketed bullets, either ball or Hornadys XTP's so theres not any hard scrubbing to do. With that I can get away with just a bore snake and a nylon brush, jags and patches.

Smith does make a bore and action cleaner for synthetic products which does work well and if I do want to let the bore soak a bit, I'll use Hoppes elite on a patch.

For a lube I use a moly-Teflon, Brownells friction defense to be specific and a light spray, wipe down of rem-oil.

I usually wipe it down after a day of carry with a soft cloth and another light spray but I do that anyway to any of mine.

For carry I use a well made leather IWB or a Galco ankle glove. Neither has had any effect on the finish either.

That sucks, this is the reason I bought a 442.