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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 06-26-2016, 02:58 PM
JFC JFC is offline
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Default Revolver Lubrication

New to handguns. Have a 317 22 and would like a good list on proper cleaning and lubing. Some say don't lube cylinders or run a bore brush thru etc. I am confused. I find Hoppe's #9 "oily" so I have avoided bore and cylinder oil. HELP please
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:06 PM
ridgewalker ridgewalker is offline
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I can't remember. Does the 317 have an aluminum cylinder? If so I would probably use only nylon brushes for cleaning the cylinder. If you search on here you can find lots of posts how people like to clean their revolvers.
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:13 PM
jack the toad jack the toad is offline
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Welcome to the forum. I typically use a patch saturated with Hoppes #9 on both bore and cylinder followed by a dry patch. This works well unless bore is leaded, then I use a brush or lead remover tool.
Unless the gun is heavily exposed to elements (dirt. moisture, etc), that's about it unless you feel comfortable in removing side plate on occasion to inspect and lube. Although this typically isn't necessary under normal conditions and use.
ETA:
There are other bore cleaners that work just as well as Hoppes. It's just that Hoppes has been around a long time and is cheap.

Last edited by jack the toad; 06-26-2016 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:08 PM
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A common issue with the 317 is the spent cases get hard to eject once the cylinder starts to heat up and powder foul. I find mine runs best with the cylinder clean and dry - no oil or lube at all. I use regular Hoppes #9 and a nylon brush followed by patches until they come out clean. I make sure the last patch through each cylinder is dry. That helps a lot with the ejection issue. If I leave any oil it starts to foul more quickly. I also find some ammo is a lot dirtier than others and contribute to the fouling.
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:25 PM
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JFC,
I've owned a 317 since 2005 , sweet gun. Don't over think the cleaning thing. Over the years I have come to prefer a 22 cal. pull through bore snake , it's just easier than a rod , bore brush , patches and jag for cleaning - lubing.
Just about any product will clean. My favorite is a home brewed mix called Ed's Red Bore Cleaner. Equal parts Dexron II (GM) automatic transmission fluid, deodorized kerosene (hurricane lamp oil) , deodorized mineral spirits and acetone.
This stuff works , is very inexpensive but it does have , like Hoppe's #9, a certain aroma to it.
Hoppe's Elite Bore Cleaner and Elite Gun Oil are nearly odor free. Great for low odor cleaning inside the house . I use two snakes , one for bore cleaning, the other for oiling, store each in a separate plastic container and they can be washed when dirty.
One snake and a CLP product (cleans, lubricates and protects) would work also.
Use a dedicated old toothbrush to clean under the extractor and in all the nooks and crannies . If , after a few hundred rounds , you start seeing a build up of baked on 22 crud , carbon like stuff, an over night soak in Ed's Red will loosen it. Scrub with tooth brush. The aluminum frame and cylinder is soft in these guns (no steel sleeves in cylinder)so don't get to aggressive with any brass brush on them, be gentle with them. The barrel has a steel liner.
If you take the side plate off there is one part that can, will , fall out ....don't loose it, and be sure to learn its proper position back in the gun. It will not work with out that part properly installed. I didn't think I would ever get that part in right and I don't remove the sideplate any more. Rem-oil in a spray can is good for inside the lock works. Doesn't get gummy.
Gary

Last edited by gwpercle; 06-26-2016 at 05:36 PM.
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