Honestly, this is very common with the newer 617's. Mine has ejection problems but shoots so darn well with everything I am reluctant to change it at all. Brought home plenty of awards and meat. I load 2 or 3 at a time and count my shots

Im a little late to this but let me throw in my 2 cents
I have 2 617s I use in competition a 4 inch and a 6 inch
I also had issues with shell ejecting and while I haven't reamed them out I have had no problems with CCI ammo
there shell walls are thicker and don't expend as much as say federal or winchester bulk
also I polished the chambers and that helped greatly

as for the FTF id start with tightening up the main spring (remove the grip if you don't know)

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John Hermesmeyer USMC9296

I'm now using my 617 for Steel Challenge matches. I can shoot over 200 Federal AutoMatch or CCI Standards without having to clean the cylinder during a match.

When I'm using dirty ammo I run a brush through the gun after every stage, that's 25 rounds. Armscore is the worst offender but groups very tightly.

Due to work overload I wasn't able to check out the repairs the factory did for over a month. The repair note that came back with the gun stated they repaired the crane, and ejector.
The gun did work better, but still had ftf's every so often, probably 4 or 5 out of 100. It became difficult to extract after 5 or 6 cylinder loads, so I sprayed it with cleaner, wiped it off and went back to shooting. k
My guess is the Winchester ammo left excessive buildup of carbon, requiring cleaning. Either I accept this as how it will be, or send it back again! Anyone else HAVE to clean their guns while at the range to keep them working?

The key words here are " No Dash " ,, you have two quailty firearms. These new lock guns are just sad.

I have a current production 617. At first, spent shells were sticky after about 100 rounds. I used Mother's Mag to polish up the cylinders. Some 1500-2000 rounds later, and some scrubbing with a brush every few hundred rounds, it works quite nicely.

Sorry Bub, this is the Smith and Wesson Forum, why pray tell would you expect someone to send their new Smith and Wesson revolver back to the company before they brought their concerns/issues to this forum???

First you need to look up the definition of invictus.

Secondly you should look up the definition of forum.

a new Smith and Wesson revolver should function nearly flawlessly out of the box, it is a relatively simple mechanical device that will function reliably if the tolerances are anywhere near the specifications??

It does sound as if Smith & Wesson made substantive repairs, but the OP continues to have some issues. IMHO Smith and Wesson would be wise if they were to more faithfully test fire and QC their weapons, because in many cases, someone's life may depend on it?

As well they are not giving them away, they advertise, and boast that they are the best, they need to keep that promise to faithful S & W purchasers.

I understand your frustration but you have to understand .22s are different from centerfires
first off FTF could mean a lot of this but first thing first tighten your hammer spring

as for ejection issues (boy that sounds wrong) you may need to ream or polish your individual cylinder chambers or look at the ammo you are shooting ....from personal experience I can tell you that bulk Winchester and Federal have thin cases that expand and are dirty so chambers get dirty fast.

I have 2 617's and these are just standard problems you run into and most of mine have been worked out so much so that in the Steel challenge and Rimfire 2-gun matches I go to I place in the top in the revolver categories

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John Hermesmeyer USMC9296

Getting with S&W is the best solution. It sound slike your gun has multiple problems from manufacture.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

If he sends it off they do warranty stuff fairly quickly, so we should hear something soon. He probably thought he would hear some similar problems and how it was fixed. But it sounds more like it's an excellent model, except for THIS gun.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I may have missed it, but I don't believe the OP ever stated if he tried experimenting with various makes of ammo in his 617. I have owned few .22 handguns or rifles that did not show a preference in function and accuracy for a particular brand or two. .22's tend to be a lot more finicky about ammo choice than centerfires.

Larry

I say punt .. sell it and look for a good old pre Lock 617 to replace it with , preferably an early model with no mim parts. I just don't ever see anyone being satisfied with one of these current production 617's. They just feel like junk ,, to me they have a tin can feel and the action grinds like as if it's filled with sand. Once you compare yours to a good old one , I think you will see why the old ones are in such high demand. If you choose to keep yours and continue to fight the problems,, well I do wish you good luck. It's a shame you can't expect what you should expect straight out of the box these days,, but that goes with everything. My new Chevy trucks body is as thin as paper, but at least its thicker than the new fords aluminum tin can outer shell . " You've all seen the commercial with the empty tool box ripping holes in the F-150's bed " admit Ford Fans that's just not cool, a little embarrassing you might say. Around here it's " 5 screws and Bowties - Like a Rock " Enough of my bias opinion goodnight all J.F.

That is a nice ending to the story , it looks like Smith gave you great Customer Service and a trigger job on the house. I have never had anything other than stellar service from smiths CS team. On the other hand --- A Canted barrel ??? ,,, bring back the pins/ bring back the pins / bring back the pins ,,, all together now !!!

Thank you Sir, I think you just helped talk me me out of a GP.
i.e. Despite owning 4 S&W K frame .22's, and having a miserable experience with a Ruger Sp101 22 last year, I have been tempted to try the GP100 .22. ( Just because...) Your experience is not far off what I would suspect though.

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Dave

Unfortunately...Lou is right. This is the only way you can be sure this gets fixed. My experience has been all the brushes and cleaning solvent in the world won't fix this problem until you do THIS.

I had the same problem with a 1958 K22. I reamed the chambers in the cylinder myself, following the excellent directions on this forum. The reaming solved most of the problems - it is still ammo brand dependent. I made a "ejector rod", like on single action revolvers, from a wooden stick less than 0.22 inch diameter with a handle made from a 3/4 inch diameter dowel rod. (I "borrowed" a "cuticle stick" from my wife for the stick, but they're available in the cosmetic department at WM. The cuticle stick already had a tapered end to use for a "lead-in" into the chamber.) This ejector rod allows you to push the each fired case out individually, rather than beating on the K22 ejector rod. Usually, there are only 1 or 2 stuck cases, and after you find them the rest will come out easily. Slow but effective. I highly recommend the reaming procedure and suggest that you purchase one or two gauge pins of diameter 0.2280 and 0.2290 to use to check the diameter of your chambers against the SAAMI specs before buying a reamer. Gauge pins are available for a cost of about $2 each from industrial supply houses. Also, I found that if I have a stuck bunch of fired cases in the cylinder, sometimes rotating the cylinder 180 degrees and trying again will work (ejector rod bent slightly?). Good luck.

I've had sticky extraction problems with a few different brands of ammo. That's one thing about all .22s you have to experiment to find what the gun likes to shoot and shoots the best.

I've settled on CCI Standard Velocity and Mini Mags when I can get them. They all go off 100 per cent of the time. So do Federal Auto Match and I have about 20 boxes of those so they will last me a while until the price hopefully comes down.

I did use a Chamber Reamer on my 617 and it's helped me be able to use more brands of ammo without the sticky chambers but CCI and Federal group better.

Ive got the 617 and love it. Great balance,great shooting,,,ive used many dif ammo and only one brand has cause ftf. I had it for 5 years and still use it all the time,,,good luck with urs.

So I just took my relatively new 617 out to shoot today, and had similar failure to fire problems in double action (Only fired a few SA, and I dont' remember it happening). Standard CCI ammo, and I put the same ammo from the same box in my Buckmark, which ran flawlessly.

I'd say it was consistently 2-3 rounds per cylinder. I kept pulling the trigger after 10, and every one of the rounds fired the second time around. Perhaps they weren't completely seated?

I came back and found a couple threads, including this one, about tightening the main spring strain screw (as well as the forward side plate screw), which I checked as I cleaned the gun. Both appeared to be properly seated. I sprayed some Hoppes up in the trigger housing while I had the grips off, too.

Finished cleaning the gun, put a few drops of lube on the cylinder stop, hand and center pin (not sure what this is called but it's the thing that moves forward when you press the cylinder release latch).

Now, the cylinder latch does not move freely. When i swing the cylinder into the frame, the cylinder latch stays forward and the action is locked (neither trigger nor hammer move). I have to physically pull the cylinder release latch backwards in order to seat it and to allow the gun to fire.

Any additional input on these issues would be helpful.

I suggest you try this again in a new thread. This one is a few months old and won't get as much traffic as a new thread.

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Just Say No - To Social Media

Thanks, I used some wooden Q-tips in my drill. The chrome cleaner worked great on the cylinders. I cut them in half and put a little polish around the tip and ran it through until it was black. Then I repeated it with a clean one. I went out and ran a 100 rounds through it. What a difference, thanks for the tip.

Sorry, sounds like you got the exact twin of one I bought many years ago. One trip back to s/w was enough. It still holds the record of most money I lost on one purchase

On trigger as above a rimfire is never going to be as good as centerfire with the same reliability, but I could just not get over the other issues. Hope you have better luck.

The latch is binding. It sounds like your side plate and/or mainspring are not properly seated and are too tight. Try taking the grips off, loosening the mainspring strain screw and ensuring the spring is properly seated in the frame, then tightening the screw. Don't over tighten it, and ensure the spring remains seated correctly in the frame as you tighten it (it will want to move to one side or the other as you tighten it). I would suspect this is the problem.

For the sideplate, don't overtighten it, especially the cylinder screw. The yoke should be captured by the screw, but the screw should not be ground into the yoke. It should be giving the yoke free play. None of the sideplate screws need to be anything but finger tight with a well fitted screw driver.

However, if you are getting light strikes after this, and it is a new gun, I recommend calling S&W for warrenty repair. If this is an older gun, I'd take it to a gunsmith and have them do a trigger job on it. They will tune it up and you'll end up with a super trigger that is 100% reliable, but it will cost a benjy.

I am totally happy with my 617=6". Shoots everything I run thru it just fine. Going to get a 617-4" soon.