Been looking for a 4" 686-4 Plus without any luck for months now. I keep seeing 686-5 Plus which has me wondering just how far apart they are in terms of quality.
I would prefer a 7 round cylinder 686, but I'm beginning to consider a 6 round 686 if it means higher quality. Which 686 model would you guys recommend?

I have a 4" 686-5 and a 2-1/2" 686-4. There are some differences in the features from one revision to the next, but I can detect no difference in the quality of the guns.

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The -4 Pluses were only made for a short time. I believe the key differences are MIM hammer/trigger and frame mounted firing pin? I'd definitely take a -5 if you can find it (and can't find a -4).

The only -4 Plus I ran across is a 6", and I bought it. Great gun after I fixed the light strikes.

I see pre-lock 7 shot 686s pop up from time to time, never at a price I'd be willing to pay (I believe one went for close to $2000).

If it were me - I would get the six shot version and not worry about it. If I want a high capacity handgun I'll just grab an autoloader.

I looked for years for the 686-4 in 4", but after so many years I finally found a 686-5 4" for $700 bucks and bought it. Good luck in your search.
686-4, 1993, change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, Hogue grips, the -4 eliminated the square grip frame on 4" and longer models. The 686-4 is generally regarded as the apex of the design as the -5 introduced MIM parts.
686-5, 1997, change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud, eliminate serrated tangs, change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger,




make a nice set. 6", 4" and 2.5" seven shooters.

One point in favor of the -5 and later is the pinned front sight. It is much easier to change out that awful red ramp.

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Common sense isn't so common.

Hold out for a 4 inch dash 3 the best version .

The older models give you the best chance for the highest quality. Even with the dreaded "M" recall on the early ones, which was real but overblown, the guns are better made than the later ones, IMO. That being said, none of them are as well made as anything that has a pin in the barrel.

I'm a big fan of the L frames. I bought one right after they were introduced and it is still going strong with thousands of rounds through it, although most of them have been .38 target loads, I have fired some magnums through it. I carried one for several years and it only had magnum ammo through it. As with all things, some have their flaws, and some are really nice, so you just have to find a good one. The "best" ones, or maybe safest to buy used are the ones with a lifetime guarantee. Even if an older one has a problem, the factory repair prices are very reasonable. I think the newest one I have is a -3.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

Thanks gents. I need to figure out if I want 6 rounds vs 7 rounds. I won't be carrying the gun or competing so I guess the extra round isn't needed. 6 round does seem more classic... probably going to go with the 4" or 6". Another tough decision!

I hate the key lock so it'll be a -5 or newer 686. It seems like y'all are perfectly happy with the -5's quality. Think I'll look for a -4 or -5 then as they're pre-lock, good quality, and have the gradual upgrades.

Can you explain why the 686-3 4" is the best version?

Pictured is a 4" -3. Square butt with flash chrome hammer and trigger (makes sense on a SS gun to have less parts to rust). The square butt also adds some collector appeal as it was later discontinued mid way through the -4 run. Many prefer the square butt on anything but a snubby.

Also pictured is an early 6" -4 with square butt (note the case hardened but not flash chrome hammer and trigger). Keep in mind that there were some early -4's that still had flash chrome parts.

Last is a snubby -5 plus model. One benefit of the -5 is the easily replaced front sight.

Both the -4 and -5 have the current style rear sight and extractor system. The -3 has the old square front style rear sight and 2 locator pin extractor.

All three are great guns. IMO some of the best revolvers ever made by S&W.

I have no preference for the Plus versions having owned a few against the six shooters. I actually prefer the look of the 6 shot cylinders.

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This thread is interesting to me as I have a 686-4 with a 4" bbl that I use as a carry and nightstand piece. I also have a NIB unfired 686-5 Mountain Gun that has been living in my safe since the late 90's. The -5 is a 7 shooter. I hear they are somewhat rare and in demand by collectors. I feel very well armed with the -4 and have never had any issue with it.

Sounds like you are satisfied with your -4 and not "craven" another .357.

i just bought a 686-4 4" from a private party here in SoCal...6 shot not 7...i paid $700 and i see them listed for more all the time.

Neither the lock nor the larger capacity cylinder are a compromise in quality in practice. Some prefer neither feature and I understand that, but it is only a preference. Get want you want and do not worry about the lock or higher capacity cylinders. S&W revolvers with both features will be working fine after we are all gone.

square butt wood grips flash chromed hammer and trigger all the improvements added from the dash 0-1-2 s the last of the truely great 686s the dash 4 except for some very early -4s had round butts rubber grips no flash chromed hammer and triggers.the dash -3 s that ive owned have all locked up tighter than any other smiths that ive owned . i have owned -0 - 1-2-3-4ssold them and kept the 3s trust me look up on forum and read others posts about the -3s.

No matter the round count, you can't go wrong with any 686 (IMHO)...but the pre-locks hold their value, and will most likely go up. The -4s are considered by many to be the best. I had a -4 snub (6 rd) and foolishly sold it off.

Curious...was that approx. $2K 686 a Performance Center piece??

There are some 686-4 + Performance Center revolvers, such as the"Light Hunter" or the 6" 'slab side' barrel version that could fetch that kind of money. Of course they are like hen's teeth.

The major differences I see between my dash 5 686+ and my Model 66 are the MIM hammer and trigger on the -5. Both have excellent triggers and overall quality is superb.

I would not have any reservations about getting a 686-5.

I'm also a fan of the 7 round variant as it has no real downside over the 6 round version unless you are shooting competitively where you may encounter a six round restriction.

If you are planning on concealed carry a 2.5" is great but the 3" is a bit better as it allows for a full length ejector rod and will allow an FBI reload rather than a Universal or Stress Fire reload.

I bought this 686-3 in 1989 and it was the primary arm with me today in the rain soaked woods as I hunted deer.

This revolver has the best trigger of any of my S&W revolvers and is very well built.

Based on my recent experiences with S&W's current production, I would select the quality and workmanship of my older revolvers over anything new.

Edmo

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TRUTH: Don't delete my posts!

The one and only S&W revolver I own now is a 4 inch 686-2, that I got yesterday. It sure is a great looking hand gun.

Hmm, I think I'm now going to target a 6" 6 shot 686. This will be my first revolver... and looking at the generational upgrades/changes, I don't understand what any of it really means. D'oh! Seems like 686-4 are the most expensive and the 686 No dash are the cheapest prelock 686s available.

I've had my 686 6" 6-shot for 20 years, and shoot it often with .38s at my gun club. Since our loading max. is 5, lining up 1 empty cylinder is easier than 2...so I like the 6. I like the red ramp front sight and white outline rear for aiming within the black 25 yd bullseye. I would never think of selling this great gun.

Nearly $2000?

I never would've thought they were that popular/rare. I have a 4 inch plus model in dash 4. I'm glad that I kept the box/papers as well. One weird thing is the box lists the stock as "SB". I assume that means square butt. My revolver is a round butt.

I've got a model 29-6 that original box also has SB but is a round butt. Everything else on box is correct to the gun.

Do I understand this correctly...
686 No Dash - Original Model
686-1 "Radius stud package, floating hand" What exactly does this do?
686-2 "Changed hammer nose, bushing, etc." Basically a M Recalled version of the 686-1?
686-3 "New yoke retention system" Guessing it's stronger? Was it ever even a problem on the previous 686 generations?
686-4 "new rear sight leaf, drill/tap frame, change extractor, round butt frame" Wider rear sight gap with a white outline? Easier to add on a scope? Better extraction? (Again... was it ever a problem on previous generations?)
686-5 "Eliminated cylinder stop stud and serrated tangs. MIM hammer and trigger." Not sure what they did that allowed the removal of the cylinder stop stud. Also not sure what serrated tangs are. I've heard from some that the MIM setup means each revolver has a very similar and nice trigger pull and doesn't take much stress so durability typically isn't a concern?

Any additional guidance would be swell.

You do understand that you're overthinking this, right? They're all excellent and I'd be happy with any. My preference is pre-MIM, but it's just preference; they work just fine too.

I'd just find one that's in good condition with the features you want and at a good price and pull the trigger. After you shoot it and own it a while and decide you can't live without a particular dash number pick that up at your convenience.

Haha, ya I probably am overthinking it. Just seeking knowledge.