So, has anyone decided on leather??

Mine rides mostly in Andrews Custom Leather - either his Saddle Style pancake, his Monarch shoulder rig,

Andrews Custom Leather

or sometimes, in a DeSantis Nemisis pocket holster.

Attached Images

AndrewsMonarch-03.jpg (281.1 KB, 66 views)

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Regards - GCF

I think Mr. qballwill really nailed it...

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Regards - GCF

I finally took the side plate and grips of my 640-1 last night. Clean as a whistle. Looks like the screws had something (Loctite) on them. Bore, chambers and everything else was as clean as a new gun. Just a lot of scratches on this one.

Any advice on getting some side plate screws off. Mine are way tight and thought I was about to bugger the screw, so I thought I would wait a bit to figure it out.

I got the finish cleaned up a bit, and think I have a bit more to do. Have not shot it yet.

It looks like I have an early one, looking at the serial number. BUB47xx.

Sent from my XT1034 using Tapatalk

Using the correct screwdriver is a must for the first step. With the bit sitting correctly in the screw slot, you can trying giving the back of the screwdriver a few light wacks with a hammer. This will often loosen frozen or locktighted screws. If several good wacks with the hammer don't loosen them, there's few other tricks. Soaking the area or whole gun in some form of solvent may help. Acetone is great for breaking up locktite. Sometimes putting the gun in the freezer over night then letting it warm back up will loosen things as the metals contract and expand. My last choice would be heating the screw up carefully, but you have to be careful or you can mess things up pretty quickly.

Appreciate the suggestions.
I really like the bead blast look and I will try the grey Scotchbrite pad.

The left hole in my grip has enough "DNA" in it that I could probably make my own Michigan State Trooper.
:-p

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<><

My regret on these is I should have bought 4 of them and then spun off 2. I think I could have made enough to pay for one outright.

The reality is, if I had done that then I would have ended up with 4 640's because the 2 I do have are basically new guns someone carried around for a couple years and shot a little bit. I couldn't part with any of them.

Still I should have bought more than I did. In today's market, any time you find a S&W 357 that can be had in your hands for less than 400 dollars you are remiss if you don't buy it. We all know they are a finite set of pieces and beside being a real hoot to shoot are slowly going up in value.

(And they don't eat much sitting in the safe).

Serger is right. I was unable to locate that particular Scotchbrite pad/sheet in my area and used a different one - a green Scotchbrite pad (3"x5") evidently intended for grill cleaning, as there's a graphic of a grill on the packaging.

After going over the 640 with this pad, always keeping the motion in one back-and-forth direction, it came out very nice, very much like the original finish. Not sure how much different this pad is from the #7448.

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Ret'd LEO
SWCA #2275

Well this has been an interesting thread.

I have to wonder just how many members of the forum bought one or more of these. I bet collectively we got quite a percentage of them, I think I read the second batch was 250. If it was 500 total, I bet we went well over 10%.

Thanks again.

We need pictures,

I wish they'd get a few more, I keep checking their website, I think I missed out.

Summit GunBroker must have been monitoring the feeding frenzy. They have the price now listed at $435.00. That is still a decent deal but not as good as the Centerfire Systems was.

I'd post the link but can't remember if it's a No-No.

Alright, a pic of my 640 'Internet Special' (my new name for it, ala' 'Detective Special' )

First time in many years that I've screwed a set of new Pachmayr's on anything. Not real pleased with them. Regardless of how I placed them on, or how hard I screwed them together, a noticeable 1/16th in. gap remained on the front of the grip frame area. Even closed the gap with padded clamps overnight, and upon their release, the gap came back.

Phoned Pachmayr (part of Lyman now), and they're sending a replacement pair. We'll see.
I seem to recall the older Pach's for the J-round were two (2) piece grips and this issue did not occur.
I chose the Pach's because I have large hands, and intend on using some magnum ammo in this working gun. They're not huge, and are relatively flat.

Attached Images

M640.jpg (96.0 KB, 134 views)

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Ret'd LEO
SWCA #2275

Internet Special. I like that.

There are lots of bad reviews on the newer style Pacs. I went with the Hogue Tamer and am very pleased. It only hangs down 5/8" from the bottom of the grip frame but can hold all three fingers. And, it is padded at the web for those magnums! haha

Thanks to the tip from serger, I received my steel mainspring swivels today from Numrich Arms. I had ordered four of them, and am going to change them out in all of my J frame Magnums....the "new" 640-1, and also my 340 PD, M&P 340, and 640-1 Pro Series. Like serger, I would rather not have any plastic parts in my revolvers if I can help it. The price is very reasonable, and it only took about a minute to swap out the little cup, the only tool you need is a paper clip and a screwdriver to remove the stocks. Don't even need to remove the sideplate.

Here is the original plastic mainspring swivel ready to be replaced by a steel part. This is pretty easy to do, just push the swivel down the shaft, remove the paper clip, and slide the new swivel into place, replace the paper clip, and replace the unit into the gun. Pull the trigger back to take up the slack while removing the paper clip. Make sure that everything works, and replace the stocks. Takes longer to type this than to do the replacement.



Here is the new part installed, and being held in place by the paper clip:



And here is the mainspring unit back in the gun, ready to replace the stocks:



Now, as I said, I have three more of these little guns to go!!

Edit: just changed out the swivel in my 340 PD... Reminder, if you gun has the butt lanyard cut, watch out that the little lanyard pin doesn't fall out when you remove the stocks. No, mine didn't, but it was starting to slide out when I remembered to catch it!! Otherwise, just as easy as replacing the one on the 640-1, but need an Allen key for the issue factory stocks. Two more to go!

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

I went ahead and ordered a couple of the metal replacement swivels as well. Probably install mine when I go on vacation after next week. Will be a good time to hit the range as well. A couple revolvers, a few bottom feeders and a few hundred rounds. Ahhh, therapy.


On another note:

When I started this thread it was just to make sure our guys and gals had a chance at some of these 640's. I find it unbelievable that it has reached 400+ replies and over 20,000 views. Amazing.

John:

This has been an amazing thread. I not only have a new gun that I am very pleased about, I learned quite a bit in the process!! I am just tickled pink with this little gem, and at last count, I have three dozen Smith and Wesson revolvers alone... Not counting my Colts and other brands, or semi autos or long guns....there is just something that resonated with a bunch of us here on the forum in regards to this particular gun...no keyhole, stainless steel, 357 magnum, fantastic price, fun project, carried a lot, shot little, nice company to deal with, great customer service.... I think that everything just came together here, and I'm still excited about mine. Even got excited to experience a new brand of aftermarket stocks that I had been curious about.

Anyway, thanks again for starting the thread....

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

Like yourself Les I got the two mainspring swivels I ordered today and just replaced the one in my 640-1. Only takes like 2 minutes. Glad everyone is happy with theirs.

I bought one of the Center Fire PD 640's.
What's a mainspring swivel?

If you look where the mainspring locks into the frame those little cups are the swivels

Double post

Did you remove the frame pin?
After calling Pachmayr they told me to remove it.
They fit better but still had a gap.
Sent mine back.

Ended up with the Tamers but haven't shot it yet.

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<><

Here's how I feel about plastic parts in classic handguns (including the mainspring housings on 1911s):


Attention firearms manufacturers!!! As I said above not just in Smiths, but in new Colts and Kimber 1911s. What are they thinking??

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

Ozark:

See the pictures that I took in post 417 above. It's the little cup that the mainspring seats in, that the mainspring guide passes through. The ones on our guns are plastic. Some of us are replacing them with steel.

Best Regards, Lesl

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

Thanks for the info.
The only thing I've done to mine is load it up with snap caps and dry fire it.
I should remove the grips and shine it up with Flitz.
But in my old age I'm getting lazy.

Hey, Ozark:

"We ain't got time to get old!" Remember the quote from "Predator"?


Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

Your not alone in being old and to lazy to Flitz it. I've been toying with it since last week and every time I start to get the Flitz out I decide I think I'll just leave it alone. To lazy to get started.

Thanks. I did look at that post and if I decide to replace them (also have a 686) I'll leave it to my gunsmith.
Hate to "fix" things and then pay more to a expert to fix my fix.

I have put snap caps in it and have been dry firing it a bunch. The trigger has IMO gotten lighter or I have just gotten more familiar with it. Anyway I am really liking the trigger. I can easily control trigger to the drop point then squeeze it off. The cylinder has just now developed a turn line. My gun couldn't have been shot but very little if any.
As far as the finish I just keep looking at the SS with enjoyment. I never cared for the bead blasted dull look. That is the one thing I would have different about my 627-5 finish. I would prefer the glossy SS look.
I really believe this gun will be my favorite.

No apology necessary, I take it as a compliment.

I ordered a bunch of steel mainspring swivels too, came today.

When I have the spring off the shaft I usually stone the edges, there always seems to be a bunch of scalloping, figure the spring may be dragging in spots.

If you look at les b.'s second pic, you can see how the spring snakes on the shaft.

When you take it apart, put the paper clip back in from the same side. The hammer end of the shaft has worn in on the hammer, if you flip it you get to break it in again.

Not sure if this stuff actually contributes to a smoother trigger, but it makes me feel better.

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SWCA #2817

I had a chance to take mine apart yesterday. Inside was pretty cruddy and fairly dry. Couple shallow scratches here and there. The cylinder notches are marred up a bit on each edge. The side plate screws are also butchered a bit. I ended up breaking it down and cleaning it entirely. Any tips on what to lube and what to use for lube? I did some searching but found conflicting tips.


Other than that I ordered some speed loaders and snaps caps. I'm currently looking for an IWB kydex holster. Most of what I'm finding is for the .38 J-Frames. I understand the longer under lug is the problem.

"You got time to duck?"

Jimmy:

Thanks for the tip!! I just replaced the other two swivels on my two remaining modern centennial style Smiths, and paid particular attention to the edges of the shaft...I could notice considerable roughness on the "back" sides of these small parts. I went back and checked the two that I had already retrofitted with the steel swivels. In each case, the smooth side was up, or facing the right side of the gun. I don't know if this is something that is always this way as a part of the factory assembly process, but at least on my four examples I won't have to worry about getting them reversed, as they were all installed in the same way.

I went ahead and stoned the rough edges of the rear surface of the shafts, for as you pointed out, even this miniscule ammount of roughness could contribute to grittiness and resistance in the double action trigger pull. Very small amount of money and time are required to make these improvements, so why not?

Here is a group shot of all four of my "modern" Centennials, all now have the steel swivel installed, and the stoning done to the mainspring guide rod.



Thanks again to Jimmy for this tip, and to serger for the initial tip on the steel replacement swivels.

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

They'v been out of them for a while, but when I walked
Into their store yesterday, one in the case. Guy behind the counter said it was the absolute worst of them all, has "road rash". He was not lying, rough in the right side with a lot of dried lube. It did come home with me, took me a while to get it cleaned up and it's much better. Although not as nice as the first one I bought, but did get it for a few less dollars. The wife and I shot the other one for the first time today and it shot very well, although my wife has claim d it for her carry gun. Good thing I bought the second one.

Very nice guns for the money.

One more thanks to John for a great thread and for sharing info on this great deal from Centerfire! I did the best I could with the finish, added Wilson Combat springs, a metal hammer spring retainer, Hogue Tamer grips, and an XS sight. Not bad!!!!

Thanks guys!!!
Dave

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	DSCF0494 (640x481).jpg (248.0 KB, 102 views)
	DSCF0495 (640x479).jpg (242.1 KB, 102 views)

Looks really good

The grips on mine are worn almost slick. Are the Hogue Tamers any more compact (thinner/shorter) than the Uncle Mike"s?
The UMs are a little to fat for me, and a little shorter would be nice.

The Tamers only stick below the actual grip frame 5/8", just enough for the pinky. I believe they are a tad wider than the UM, but not bad at all. If you want small and quality, I suggest the Hogue Bantams. I have a set on a 38 but wanted something with a bit more girth for magnums on this gun.

Thanks for the info. I'll have to measure the UM to see how far past the frame they hang.The Tamers look more compact, but it's hard to tell in pix. I haven't been able to find one locally.

As to the Bantam's, I'm not a fan of a two finger grip.

Nicely done!

Do you have any additional comments on the XS sight installation, & function?

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Regards - GCF

Have not shot the gun with the XS sights yet. I got the medium size, not the "Big Dot". I had to take the gun to my smith to get the pin and original sight off. They would not budge for me AT ALL! I tried everything but no go. Only had to use a jeweler's file on each side of the new sight to get it to fit, but I left it tight anyhow. Once I got it started, I turned the gun upside down, set the top of the sight on a block of wood then used a resin mallet to hit the bottom of the barrel so it would lessen the impact on the sight itself. Took a #54 drill bit, drilled through, added some Locktite, then tapped in the pin.

Well I received the steel mainspring swivels from Numrich yesterday. Put them in. I don't know if it makes any difference but I feel better with steel vice plastic. Must be old school with respect to revolvers.

Also had a nice discussion with les b. about his guns and it was educational. I suppose I should pay better attention to what S&W is now selling.

I still wish I'd bought more of the 640's. Best deal I've seen in a couple years.

Thank you Mr John Rippert for the heads up! I love my 640-1. It is about to become my EDC once I get used to it a little better. Again Many Thanks!

Have we decided where these guns came from? First, it was California Corrections, then Michigan State Police? It would be nice to know if possible.

Thanks!!! Dave

Inquiring minds need to know!

The good ones probably came from CA because they probably were not allowed to shoot them. However the used ones probably came from MI where they are allowed to shoot guns. Just kidding folks.

With the shape some of these were in the 'origin' may not want us to know.

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Patriots Forever!!

Well, I hone the rebound, replace the spring rebound spring and used some Remington Rem oil on everything on the insides.
Not too bad for a DA revolver now.
Just hope I get to shoot it soon with the bad weather we have around here now.

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Only difference Fool/Mule-ears

Beautiful piece!!!! Nice job!!

I carry mine in a Galco H719 T SM158. Fits like a glove and very secure. Don't have to worry about it coming out while running, or tusseling! Works for me at any rate. Just saying.

Regards
dcopper