Just received my first revolver, a model 10-10. Looks to be in great mechanical shape. Never taken a revolver apart before, but I'm curious if you guys think I should take it apart to inspect and clean. Or do you guys think it'll be good to go without any internal maintenance?

Don't fix it. Assume it's ok for now. There is some technique to taking off the side plate, so don't just unscrew it and pry it off. If it doesn't like it's been shot a lot, dirty or neglected I wouldn't worry about it.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Use it first. If it is smooth and works, do not try to fix something that isn't broken.

Everything that needs "inspection" as far as safety and armorer type checks can be done without removal of the sideplate. There are more, but these are ones that I routinely do on a revolver.

DO NOT DO ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE THE REVOLVER IS UNLOADED. AFTER YOU HAVE CHECKED IT, CHECK IT TWO MORE TIMES.

Make sure the screws are snug, including the mainspring strain screw, which MUST be screwed right down. Do not back it off at all. Obviously, to inspect the strain screw, you must remove the stocks. When you do so, it will allow you to check the plate screw that is under the stock to make sure it is snug.

Timing and push-off can be tested externally, and you can make sure the hammer block is working properly by cocking slowly and at the same time view the internals with a bright light through the top as the hammer is brought back slowly. You can see the hammer block dropping out of place. Likewise, you can see it rising back into place as the hammer is slowly lowered (you have to let the trigger go forward as the hammer is being lowered - if you hold the trigger back while lowering the hammer, the hammer block will stay in its "down" position to allow the weapon to fire.

You can visually make certain the firing pin is protruding through its bushing in the bolster face by opening the cylinder, holding the thumb piece to the rear and dry firing the revolver. A hammer mounted firing pin (hammer nose) will remain protruding through as long as you hold the trigger back.

The frame mounted type does not come through very far, and it should retract back after firing as it should have a spring which is compressed when firing. (This spring is easily lost by an inexperienced person who takes the revolver apart, so it is essential to check this.) An alternative test for the frame mounted firing pin is a pencil dropped, eraser first, into the barrel, and when you dry fire, the pencil should fly up. Do not allow your eye or face, or anything else to get in front of the pencil.

You can check to make certain the firing pin spring is in place by opening the cylinder, pointing the weapon straight down, and let gravity do its thing. If the firing pin protrudes, then the spring is missing or has been weakened by a "kitchen table gunsmith" for some reason.

An alternative test is to open the cylinder, hold the thumb piece back, and then fire the weapon pointing it straight down. The firing pin spring will cause the firing pin to recede back into the frame even against gravity. If the firing pin spring is not present, the firing pin will not recede back.

Finally, you can check to make certain that the spring that keeps forward tension on the hand has not become dislodged from behind the stud on the hand by opening the cylinder, use the tip of a pin to push the hand back into the frame a little, and it should spring forward so that it sits flush with its window opening in the bolster face.

BE SURE TO DO ALL OF THESE TESTS/INSPECTIONS WITH AN UNLOADED REVOLVER.

I remove the side plate on every used revolver I get. Just did it the other day on a Model 64. Gun was clean on outside but filthy inside. I hose the inside down with brake cleaner and then blast in there with compressed air. I do not take anything apart. Just make sure you remove side plate correctly and don't mess up the order of the screws.

I don't NEED to do this, but I just like starting out with a clean gun. Never take the plate off after the initial
Cleaning

I never take the sideplate off. I take the grips off then spray Gunsrubber into every nook and cranny I can. Then I cock the hammer and flush it again. Let it dry, then put a drop of oil in those same places. Work the action a bit, put the grips back on, wipe off any excess oil and call it good.

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John 3:16 .

Sure open it up. There's no learning experience that makes a permanent impression quite like a mistake.

I agree with Bob on this. If there's nothing wrong with the revolver when you open it up, odds are about 1000% that there will be when you try to put it back together.

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Pisgah

The first thing I do with any gun, new or used, is to strip it, clean it, and lubricate it. With used guns you never know what you'll find, usually filth and a couple coils clipped from the rebound slide spring at the least. With new guns, sometimes bits of metal left over from machining and absolutely no lubrication whatsoever.
A good cleaning and lubrication, I use gun grease on all contact points, and the gun will have a much better action then it did when you started.
I have to say I'm quite surprised by the amount of people on here that won't pop a sideplate off! I like to be completely familiar with my firearms.

Morning Johnson184

A good rule of thumb when it comes to revolvers is: If you
have to ask then you probably shouldn't.

For a savvy revolver mechanic taking a S&W apart to clean
& inspect is about a given, but just keep in mind that way
more can go wrong than go right without a thorough understanding
of HOW to properly take it apart, HOW to properly reassemble,
& HOW to then properly function & safety check the revolver.

My neighbor, a lawyer, bought a very nice used car for his son last summer. Before he bought it, I sent him with the car to my mechanic, who has worked for the local municipality for 25 years. A very good mechanic. He said the car was fine, and an excellent deal. Two weekends later, I see the front end of the car up on blocks, and my neighbor underneath with his $200 Craftsman tool kit beside him. I asked him what was wrong, and he said he wanted to make sure the brakes were good before Skippy drove it.

My mechanic was busy that week. He put it back together for my neighbor a week later.

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

Clean any new gun before firing, also any new old gun. Before taking off the sideplate watch the excellent AGI videos first.

I did this with a K38 I got and it was a lot of fun but I was very nervous about it.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

I'm no expert... With your question, apparently neither are you. Leave the gun alone. Clean it as others here have suggested and shoot it. I've owned and shot revolvers my whole life and have never had the side plate off of any gun of mine. My guess is most would rather buy a gun from me than someone who tells them that they've removed the side plate and "smoothed up the action." I know would.

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Join the NRA today

If you are mechanically inclined and have the correct size screw drivers, you should be fine. Might want to watch some youtube clips on the process to help you determine if you are up to it.

If you intend to get involved in S&W's at a detailed level, which I would advise if you are mechanically inclined, I would recomend you purchase Brownells Magna Tip screw driver set and don't skimp. If you do it, buy 58 piece set.

You will very very likely be fine with no internal maintenance, but I feel it is worth while to know how to remove a side plate and be familiar with the internal lock work.

There is almost nothing under the side plate that will fall out because the parts are all fitted and spring loaded. Buy a good screwdriver set. . .EBAY sellers have them. Remove the grips. Remove the plate screws. Slide out the yoke and cylinder. Tap on the grip frame of the gun with a rubber hammer or block of wood or almost anything. The side plate will pop right up so you can easily remove it. At this point, you can do all the inspecting and cleaning you want. I would not remove any other internal parts because that involves some springs. The only time I do that is when I want to replace a trigger or hammer. After everything is cleaned up ease the side plate back into position. . .front and top first. Unless you're working on a stone mint collector's Smith, there is not much you can hurt. If you mess up a screw, go to EBAY and buy a set for your gun from gun_garage. They cost around $8 each. I very often replace all the screws unless they are already perfect. It will improve the appearance of the gun if needed.

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Dr. B

Interesting thread for sure!

Attached Images

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Patriots Forever!!

Make sure you have the correct screw drivers if you decide to do it.

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Back to back World War Champs.

Seriously? Are you a gunsmith? Do you have the ability to do this with knowledge of what you are looking at once inside? Did any instructions come with your new gun stating that a complete internal inspection was advised, required or even suggested - just in case a factory gunsmith or engineer made a mistake that you can identify? Would you take the engine apart in a new car? This is serious humor - but I make a point of never buying a used gun that has had more then routine cleaning as suggested by the manufacturer.

I was just looking at that Brownells set the other day! I think I'll have to pick it up eventually, but I hear everyone here loud and clear. The sideplate will not come off until I learn more about revolvers lol.

It's a police trade in from the California Department of Corrections so everything looks to be in perfect working order. I was under the incorrect assumption that one should still remove the sideplate to spray some lubricant inside but it seems like no lube is even necessary. I guess I just clean the outside of the revolver, the cylinder/chambers, and the barrel... and just oil the extractor rod. Coming from modern semiautomatics... that's a lot less work than I imagined lol.

I keep a bucket of Ed's Red homemade gun solvent /lube in the garage. First thing I do with any firearm, new or used, is to take off the grips and give it a bath in the Ed's Red. A few judicious squirts of air from the compressor to loosen crud up inside and then I air it out good with the compressor to remove the excess solvent. A good wipe down after and it is ready to test.

I like working on my guns and I have the Kuhnhausen S&W book and proper hollow ground screwdriver bits. If you have a old beat up S&W around they make good learning tools for how to get into them. If you have any reservations about taking it apart, don't do it.

This is what was inside of the Model 640 that I got from Centerfire Systems last week. Dry as a old bone inside. That is why I like having enough cleaning fluid to submerge the pistol. I probably could have gotten away with just doing my normal dunk and blow out but I really like to put a firearm back to rights before using it.

It turned out that the bolt (the bar that the cylinder release screws into) was rubbing on the side of the hammer. I ended up putting some grease between the two to smooth things out. Made the trigger pull a bit easier. If I had not taken it all the way apart I would not have seen that.

I dont find the internals all that mysterious or hard to figure out.
The hardest thing to put together is the hand spring. And remember to replace the hammer block.
Just use the right screwdrivers.
But im a tinkerer.
If you can put together a Ruger MkII a revolver is cake.

I'm inclined to take off the side plate. I read a post on the forum that a member took the slide plate off only to find the hammer block missing.
This is what my J frame model 34-1 internals looked like - glad I took a look inside. I ended up using a cleaner and then soaking it in CLP, blowing it out and oiling. Worked for me.

Attached Images

34-1 internals.jpg (123.7 KB, 175 views)

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Patriots Forever!!

So have I - when I felt it might be necessary. When I got my dads Victory I was the last to remove the side plate - over 25 years ago so I did it when I got it last year and it was a little gunked up so I just blew it out with brakleen, air blasted, lubed and put the plate back on. The plates on the two Smith's I bought recently were removed a few years ago to install spring kits so I am leaving them on for now.

I carried a 10-6 HB for nearly 20 years and can tell you the Model 10 is a great dependable revolver but....

If you received your revolver as previously owned then I highly recommend that you thoroughly inspect it at your earliest convenience.
There's no time like the present to learn assembly/disassembly of your S&W revolver.
There's nothing to fear,you won't break it.Just be careful not to lose any of the small parts.I keep a good magnet handy for when I drop a part on the floor or a tiny spring shoots across the room.

There's plenty of videos on YouTube.

All my guns are previously owned so there's some surprizes involved both good and bad.
I remove the grips,side plate and cylinder on all new purchases and soak the metal ones in K1 kerosene or Marvel Mystery Oil for a few days.Then I take out all the internal parts and wipe them down.

I use Rem Oil and M-Pro 7 synthetic grease to lubricate the parts and then a very light coat of the Rem Oil on the exterior metal.

Lubricant and cleaner selection is a personal choice so it's what works best for you.

I occasionally use a bit of Ren Wax on the wood grips.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

Get a can of spray gun cleaner , attach the plastic nozzle and spray into all crevices , flood it , work the action and flush out any crud. Do it again then shake out excess and let dry . Spray lubricant , Rem-Oil is good, spray into all crevices, work action , spray again . Shake out all excess and let drain on a towel.
If you want to take it apart it's most important to have gunsmith screwdrivers that fit the screws and have dis -assembly and re- assembly instructions. Believe me when I say this ! I have messed up several guns learning things the hard way.
I don't do anything more than removing the side plate now days and there is one part that can fall out must be replaced correctly to work.
When in doubt ....don't do it !
Gary

I rarely open up a new / used revolver "just for the hell of it." Will occasionally do it to check out internals if I nnow somebody else has been in there.

Here is the Model 10-9 that I posted last night. Opened it up because of the bubba bob job and conversion to DAO.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My one and only ever buy off gunbroker was several months ago for a Model 625-2.I was the 1st and only bidder on the gun that started off at the max I would pay for a previously owned 625-2.

The gun was looking at about 99% seeing the photos of the exterior posted by the seller.

When I picked it up at my FFL I was pleasently surprized that it was in the original box wrapped in the brown S&W paper and secured in the trigger insert.The papers and tool kit was also in the box.There was also a dozen Wilson moon clips and an unloading tool.

Now the not so good.

The gun was shipped in 1989 and probably rarely had the grips and side plate off,maybe once.

Under the factory Pachmayr grips was some black pitting that still remain visible after careful removal attempts.

The strain screw was for a square butt model.

WD 40 was used heavily on the internal parts and was like chewing gum.I've seen this before and knew what I was witnessing in this revolver.

The rebound spring was cut far too short.

The main spring was and after market with a rib.

A moon clip with 6 45acp rounds inserted in the cylinder would not allow it to be closed and turn smoothly.

Two of the cylinder holes would only allow .452" plated Berry's bullets to go half way down.

The revolver now works perfectly.

I recently drilled and tapped the gun to accept the reflex sight mount made by forum member revolver_ph to which I affix a Burris FF3 red dot.

So,should you thoroughly check out your purchases?

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

Yep, I bought 629-1 off of this forum with the exact same spring issue, both main and rebound...5 minute fix. Bought a 19-3 with spring issues. When I opened up the 19-3 the action was packed, yes PACKED, with moly grease. The stories go on and on.

x2 on the Raptor mount and FF3...I just did it on 629 Classic 5", and took it for spin yesterday morning...WOW!

Warning: if you remove the side plate, DO NOT cycle the action more than a couple of times, fascinating though it is.

The hammer and trigger studs are attached to the frame side and the other end is supported by the sideplate. With the side plate off the studs are bearing all the stress one point. It's easy to bend and even break them. If it's even possible to replace a broken stud, it could cost more than the gun is worth.

That makes sense and seems like very good advice. Quite frankly, I had never even thought about that before and cycled the action many times to evaluate function. I've never actually heard of anybody having a problem like the one you described but it makes sense. I will certainly be much more careful going forward.


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You can do it, you just have to make sure you seat all the moving parts correctly. Armorers do it all the time to function check and fit parts, but they do it correctly, knowing how the parts interrelate. Just one more of the many things that you need to know before ripping off a side plate and poking around . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

I'm firmly on both sides of the fence on this one. One should not remove the sideplate of an S&W revolver without PROPER screwdrivers, good directions from a GOOD video or a Kuhnhausen book, a piece of wood to tap the frame with, and some elementary proficiency in operating the most critical tools, the screwdrivers. NOT EVERYONE HAS THIS, and it does not disqualify him or her from safe and sane operation of a firearm.

Yet, I believe, based on my own experience with MANY dozens of new and used revolvers, that every revolver needs to have that sideplate removed at least once. The first time should be fairly soon after you first get your hands on it.

It is probably clear that I have to conclude that the person who is not mechanically inclined is going to have to GET mechanically inclined, and buy a Kuhnhausen, a Brownell screwdriver or two and a few bits, a rebound slide tool, and some eye protection. If he or she doesn't want to go this route, it won't cost much more, or maybe less, to have the gun gone over by a competent gunsmith, if he or she happens to know one.

AFAIK, back when cops carried revolvers, many departments had police armorers inspecting and cleaning them on a regular basis. I don't see anything wrong with the mechanically disadvantaged arranging for a similar attention to maintenance.

One thing I find missing in the tools needed is a dry cleaning bag. There are two springs that will fly away and never come back if you aren't careful. Until you know what to expect - the operation can take place with the revolver confined within the bag; so I'm told

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Patriots Forever!!

Yup. I do any rebound slide removal or installation in a small bathroom with the sink drain plugged. It must be fun listening from outside. "booooing...GDAMIT (few minutes later)...boooiiiing, GDAMNIT" on repeat. I've found that a ballpoint pen is a better tool for rebound slide spring installation that that ridiculous little notched tool.

Gun Smith's need to feed their families too. Why mess with a valuable weapon and hope you don't break it fixing it or "thoroughly cleaning it.". I do field strip semi's to clean, but I don't remove side plates on revolvers.

Over the years I've gotten some good deals on guns because of very simple problems. I keep a healthy stock of spare parts to ensure I can make a good opportunity come together. For me it's part of the hobby, and I enjoy it. I can understand others would rather not be bothered with it. I also replace my own brakes, rebuild my own motors, build my own computers. I'm not a gunsmith, mechanic, or an IT technician. To me DYI'ing is more convenient than having to take my stuff somewhere to be fixed, and like I said I find it fun. Furthermore, I'm pretty sure no one cares about my stuff more than I do.

In the grand scheme of things, I'm of the opinion unwinding a few side plate screws and tapping on the frame handle a few times is not asking much of a conscientious adult with fair to good dexterity. I wasn't born with this knowledge, it's a capability I developed. Believe me when I say I'm not a rocket scientist. If I can do it, I imagine most people can do it if they try. That's why I suggested they OP buy the right tools, and give it a try. I suspect like me he will be into this hobby for some time, and the tools will pay for themselves.

One final thing to think about, as if there hasn't been enough, is re-assembly
, especially on the newer models. Getting the handspring back into place is a challenge.

Also on a MIM hammer, if the DA sear comes out of the hammer,getting that wimpy spring in place WO bending it is hard.

I'm not saying this to discourage you. The best way to learn is to do it. Just follow the tips you've received here, be patient, be prepared to buy an extra spring or two (very minor expense,). When in doubt, don't force anything. The only part requiring much force is reinstalling the rebound assembly.

I'll never will forget what my grandfather once told me ,, when he came home and I had the old double barrel apart.
" Boy, there are two types of people that take a gun apart. A gunsmith and a fool. And you ain't no gunsmith. "

Well, I got the double barrel back together. And like most kids I didn't listen.. I've been taking firearms apart for about 50 years now. I've made several mistakes over the years.. Some that cost me. But I've gotten fairly good at fixing and working on things..

When I was young there was no such thing as a computer or you tube. Lots of good information ( and bad ) on there.
IF you are mechanically inclined ,, do some studying as to the proper way to take one apart,,, and have a proper screw driver set , like Brownell's sells..

Have at it.. You're not going to learn without doing it..

But like Clint once said ,,," Man has to know his limitations ".

Just had my grandson over this weekend, showing him how to take a S&W revolver apart. Didn't want him to have to learn like I did,, the hard way..

If you take the sideplate off keep Smith and Weston's customer service phone number nearby by chances are you'll need it.

I have a model 1917 that I was cleaning, and I decided to remove the cylinder to just make it easier to clean the chambers. I've done this many times with later production revolvers and it's pretty much as far as I'll go to disassemble a revolver. I totally forgot about the spring loaded detent pin that holds the yoke open in the old guns. That sucker shot out of the frame like a bullet. Fortunately, it hit the inside of my work light and landed on the table. It reminded my how mechanically inept I can be. Nothing good could come from me removing the side plate of one of my old revolvers. They are cleaned and lubed from the outside. If I have a problem, I have competent people to go to. BTW, I got tips from a couple of forum member on getting it back in that worked like a charm.

This is pretty much me to a T. A curios mind that likes to know how things operate and function. In all areas, just like you.

When it comes to revolvers, I think it is part of the hobby and anyone who is really into it should know. Most don't, as can be determined by this thread.

I encourage the OP to learn simple maintenance and repairs on his revolver if he wants to dive further into the hobby. There has been a list of problems shared here with used guns that was discovered after an inspection. I can give my own LONG list. So all of you who are afraid or don't want bothered with tinkering or detailed inspections, I would wager quite a few of your guns have issues, for which you are none the wiser to.

Given this was an LEO trade in, a complete disassembly with deep examination of ALL parts is in order. Back in the day, having a mechanical understanding and even repair capability for all of your possessions was a given. Today, it is pay someone else to do it, I don't have time or want to be bothered.

I was in a similar situation just a few days ago and can attest to much of what has been said so far.

Got a really rough Model 65 and thoroughly polished it. Since I used fine steel wool, I imagined some of it might have gone inside the mechanism, so I needed to remove the sideplate off.

I'm mechanically inclined, and honestly have a way with restoring things. I watched the videos, used the correct screwdrivers, tapped it off and there it was... not a single piece of steel wool inside.

"OK, might as well just clean it since I'm at it"

Cleaned it... tried to cock the hammer... JAMMED.

My heart stopped for a second.

I looked everything and it all seemed right... I didn't understand.
I started panicking.

"OK.. let's see what it can be... I'll go ahead and disassemble it"

Did that and POOF, I managed to disengage a tiny spring that goes inside the trigger hand.

Result... the trigger hand wouldn't rotate the cylinder.

I couldn't for the life of me get it back in place and knew I had to take it to an armorer. At that point I felt like I wanted to crawl into a hole and die.

The armorer fixed it in 5 minutes, assembled it perfectly, did not charge me anything and let me go not without giving me the "please don't this again, kiddo" look.

---

Conclusions:

1) If you've never done something before, it's quite likely you will screw up in some other way.

2) Before doing anything of the like, always have a back-up plan. IE: How are you going to fix it if something goes wrong?

3) By taking things apart, you do learn a lot. By screwing up, you learn even more.

4) Me, I learned that all it was necessary to unjam the action was to push the trigger and mechanism flush inside. If it's ever so slightly misaligned, the revolver jams. I also learned all the different parts and how it works internally.

5) Would I do it again? Yes, most likely. Depends on the situation. Would I have done it if it was my only revolver? Maybe not.

The choice is up to you, sir. There's nothing mysterious in there, it's great to take things apart. Just know that you can screw up and have a plan in case you do.

We all started out in the same place,knowing absolutely nothing about guns.

Then we took that first baby step,then another and another until we built up a confidence in our ability.

My first steps led me to be able to disassemble and assemble garands and 1911s blindlolded.

In the NYPD I didn't take off the grips and sideplate of my Model 10-6 until months after I graduated from the Police Academy.There were a few oops and 4 letter words during the 1st foray but I learned quickly.

I suggest members here offer words of encouragement to gun owners that are a bit leary of pistol disassembly.

Most people will only have a one time spring search and learn a valuable lesson the same as we did.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

Isn't taking the side plate off akin to opening up the hood to look around

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Patriots Forever!!

I agree with ALL above posters..........whether you decide to pop the sideplate, or not pop the sideplate...it is up to you, but always, always, have a Plan B

My Plan B suffices for ALL my situations....even guns too!

Attached Files

Plan B.pdf (362.1 KB, 50 views)

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Charlie B
SWCA#3083, SWHF#570

Years ago I decided to disassemble my Remington 1100 shotgun.

Ended up at my gunsmith's house with a grocery bag full of parts.

Now I bring my guns to the gunsmith intact.

I am very comfortable removing the sideplate of a S&W revolver and to a cleaning and light polishing of internals. I have never found any issues except crud that has found it's way into that area. A cleanup and relube always made the gun function more smoothly.

I need advice from the experts here but if I were nervous about disassembly I would be inclined to remove the stocks and spray the insides with Gunscrubber and allow it to evaporate followed with Remoil spray or WD40 DRY Lube, (not WD40) followed by compressed air to make sure everything is as dry as possible.

I bought my first Smith and Wesson revolver in 1994 or 95. A police trade in Model 64. Kinda like the one in the attached photo which I bought 20 years or so later.

Went home and took it apart. I couldn't figure out what the hammer block was for but put it in back in anyway!

Since then I've bought a few books and watched some police armorer buddies work on Smiths and picked up enough skills (and the necessary tools) to pop out the sideplate and look around whenever I want. I always do on any used revolver I acquire. And I did the same on a brand new 442 I bought. It had red loctite on the yoke screw - obviously Smith doesn't think we're smart enough to look at the internals - glad I did cause it was bone, I mean BONE dry in there.

When it comes to used guns there's no telling what you will find, could be nice and clean but not usually. Most often a lot of a carbon, sometimes dried lube, maybe some iddy biddy bits of metal, who knows? You won't unless you take a look.

There is really no reason at all that a person who can change a sparkplug or a tire can't learn how to deal with the internal parts of a double action Smith and Wesson revolver - you don't have to be a brain surgeon to do it.

By all means, get a book or watch some videos but if you have the inclination to take look inside, go for it. You WILL learn something and you'll appreciate your revolver all the more.

Attached Images

Model 64 4inch_edited.jpg (244.5 KB, 22 views)

I take my revolvers to my gunsmith. I tell him if I want my guns messed up I want it done by a professional .

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I like Ike.

Sir, how common would you say those skills are nowadays?

I'm your typical young adult urban-office-worker (28yo) and I can assure you that most of the people I work with don't even know what a sparkplug's job is, less so where it is located and how to remove it. "That's the mechanic's job".

Never seen anything like that. I did read on another thread about someone finding a worm larvae in tobacco juice residue.

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Patriots Forever!!