I have a new Model 60 that I plan to replace the trigger and hammers springs with springs from Brownells. Looking at various videos, etc. some recommend using a trigger rebound spring tool for replacement of the trigger rebound spring. There are 3 that I have found:

1) Brownells, which is not given good reviews

2) SmithMaster, which looks good

3) Samson SpdTool, which is more versatile but more expensive. Also, it say it is only for K,L, N revolvers.

Do I really need a tool? If so, any recommendations?

Thanks!

I bought the Wheeler Engineering Bit from Midway. Wheeler Engineering Screwdriver Bit S&W Rebound Slide Spring

I already had the driver that accepted changeable bits.

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Dan
Ps 96 SWCA 2930 SWHF 524

While not necessary, it does make the task much easier. I have the Smithmaster.

A special tool is not necessary......I just use a small screwdriver with a tip taper that fits into the end of the rebound spring. Added some heat shrink tubing in the shaft to help prevent contact of the shaft with other metal objects, frame, etc. Screwdriver suggestion was courtesy of John Contro at the armorer's school. (1980) A small phillips head screwdriver also serves this purpose well.

The approx. 1/8 inch tip also serves to remove sideplate screws, and the handle is great for tapping the grip frame to loosen the sideplate for removal. Cost: $4.50 (1985)

The Sampson tool appears to be a box handle, 3" combination stubby screwdriver that costs $50.00. What?

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IMG_0286.jpg (90.9 KB, 456 views)

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

If you already have a bit driver set, get this thing for $4.49. It works well:
Wheeler Engineering Screwdriver Bit S&W Rebound Slide Spring

For a long time I used a small flat head, and a bic pen. I would say my quality of life has increased by using proper tools.

I see it was mentioned above. So 2x on g-dad's suggestion.

The link shows it is "discontinued".....I guess by Midway?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I also use a Smithmaster. If you are only going to do one gun, no you don't "Need" a special tool, but if you feel you may do more in the future, it makes life easier, (and what guy doesn't like another tool). You can use it for I,J,K,L,N, (and I assume X) Frames.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

The Wheeler bit has been discontinued. I like amorer951's idea.

Thanks all!

I have the old Wheeler and it works like a charm. I still use it inside if a clear plastic bag just in case.

If I were to gt a new one I would go Smithmaster just based on all the other handy products I have bought from him.

I changed mine with no problem without even knowing a special tool existed.

No special tools are needed. Jerry Miculek uses a screw driver to remove the rebound spring and a ball point pen to reinstall it in his trigger job video:

This ^^^. While I have the rebound spring tool, and use it for the spring removal, I actually find it easier to re-install using the rounded end of a "click" pen. Once you get the installation started with a pen, you can then easily press the slide down into place, since the spring is now captured on the "stud".

Or you can make your own from an old screw driver... spring fits on the end, the top "notch" hooks the spring coil, the bottom "notch" provides clearance for the stud.

But, the method Jerry uses with the tip of a ball point pen is simplicity in itself and works slicker than corn through a goose.

Attached Images

S&W tool.JPG (74.9 KB, 295 views)

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Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

I use a Philips head screwdriver that has a shank a little larger then the spring but still allows the tip to go inside the spring enough to hold it. Couldn't be any easier...

Sorry, didn't see that the Wheeler bit had been discontinued when I posted the link.

All the other suggestions here are good and I used most of them before getting the tool. gnystrom is correct about removing and installing the spring in a large plastic bag. You'll only hunt for that spring one time before you realize how important the bag is!

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Dan
Ps 96 SWCA 2930 SWHF 524

I don't have the rebound slide tool either. I just grab the largest pin punch that will fit between the post and the inside of the rebound slide to allow me to compress the spring on one side. Never had a problem using that method.

I've always just used a small screwdriver and never knew such a tool existed in the last 40 years or more of working on Smiths.

My project guns often require assembly/disassembly 25-30+ times with the timeline going from 45 minutes the first time to 5 - minutes at the end. The more you do it the easier it is. I use a small flathead screwdriver and a rag to cover the spring at assembly. I never use a special tool. The rag is to catch the spring if it escapes during assembly. Eye protection is required. That dude can shoot by your ear like a 22 Zinger! The tool would be helpful if its something that you will use a lot.

I have had the Brownells tool for years. It works great for removing the spring, but it can be a bear when putting the spring back, especially so for aftermarket springs which are longer and not as stiff as the Smith springs. I like the looks of Gunhackers screwdriver. Looks like it would work very well.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I built my own, very simple, cheap and effective
inspired by the "official tools" and Jerry's pencil)




The slotted side to remove (cover the removed parts with your fingers to prevent the spring to jump away), and the "pencil" side to re-insert the spring, as seen in Jerry's video.

+1 on the small screwdriver school of thought.

A small flat blade to lift the spring off and a small (#2?) phillips to put it back on.

While not necessary, it does make the task much easier. I have the Brownells tool.

The best rebound spring tool may be the one slenet made. I may make one myself.

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DRB #2276

I use the Brownells tool and my life has been much happier since I bought it. I did have to widen the slot slightly for an airweight - I think they have fatter pins.

I, like others have mentioned used a small screwdriver and a plastic bag when I replaced the springs in my Model 60. I do like the ball point pen idea though.

I use a flat blade screwdriver with a tip that was ground down a bit by the armorer instructor at the factory . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

Pretty much the way I have been doing it. I have the Wheeler bit kit for my hollow ground screwdriver bits and after seeing people talk about the Wheeler spring bit I had a look. My kit has one. I will probably still use my phillips head screwdriver.

After careful thought (and taking into account my limited skill set), I went with the SmithMaster tool.

So this morning I put the Wolff spring kit into my Model 60-15. I put in the 13 lb rebound spring with the 8 lb hammer spring.

The tool helped alot with the rebound spring. It made the job pretty easy. However getting the new hammer spring in was harder. I had issues getting the spring with the plastic cap compressed enough to get a paper clip to hold it. However after awhile, I got it and then things went smoothly.

BTW, while removing and installing the springs, etc. I had the gun inside a large plastic bag so as not to lose any parts. It was awkward, but it worked. Also, with my gun, you need the cylinder to be locked in place or you can't pull back the hammer. Is this normal?

The trigger in DA seems quite a bit smoother and noticeably less trigger pull. The SA is quite crisp. I don't have a trigger pull gauge, so I can't give you the lbs before and after.

So now I need to get to the range t make sure there are no light primer strikes. If I do, I will need to go up in rebound spring poundage. If so, having the tool will make this easier.

Nope. Take em out with a screwdriver, put em back in with a ball point pen.

I use a flat screwdriver and a ball point pen. A parker works the best.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

I've worked on dozens of S&W revolvers over the last 40+ years. I finally bought a SmithMaster trigger spring tool. It was the best tool I ever bought. It paid for itself by not loosing springs from flying across the room, scratching parts, and cut fingers. It's made very well, and works great!

zogger: Pardon me if I misunderstand you here. Are you thinking that a heavier rebound spring would eliminate light strikes?

If so, I believe I'm correct in saying that only the hammer spring controls hammer force, which of course controls reliable primer ignition. The rebound spring ensures reliable trigger reset, and helps control trigger pull weight. Changing rebound springs therefore wouldn't affect light strikes.

I think that that is correct. If it isn't, I'm sure someone will be along shortly to correct ME.

Just trying to help you avoid a rabbit trail here if possible.

Best wishes in your adjustments,
Andy

Interesting. If the hammer spring is the only thing that can effect light primer strikes, why do the kits provide 3 different rebound spring weights? I guess if I have issues, I will find out!

To alter the weight of the trigger pull.

zogger: What TAC said above. Wolfe offers 3 rebound springs to give you a choice. When I installed their springs in one of my Smiths, I chose the one in the middle of the pack, if I remember correctly. The resulting trigger pull was light enough to suit me, and heavy enough to keep me from short-stroking the trigger on follow-up shots(that wouldn't necessarily have happened anyway, but a little additional pull weight tends to prevent it).

To clarify my earlier post just a bit, there CAN BE other factors involved when one gets light primer strikes -just not the weight of the rebound spring.

Regards,
Andy

I've changed many easily with a Bic pen.

I find the tool I use, made by Gunsmither, makes life easier for me. In my case, shaky hands with fumble fingers guided by sixty three year old eyes make the tool essential. I don't want to hunt for springs that fly into an unseen dimension never to return. I guess I could fashion some sort of tool but I'm too fond of repose and don't care to bother with it. If stripping a S&W revolver lockwork is a very rare occurrence, the expense may not be worth it but it has been to me.

That was the conclusion I eventually came to. I am 65 and have the eyes and hands to prove it. The tool made it much easier to put in the springs.

Thanks for the info.

No, and it doesn't fit around the pin in Airweights. I returned it to Midway, a company I usually love, and becasue of their return shipping charge (which covered the price of the shipping for the return label I got with the RMA) it cost me 50 cents more to return it than to throw it away. It was a $5 part.

I use the same sophisticated tool as Jerry Miculek; a BIC ball point pen. Have used it for at least four trigger jobs, and numerous inner cleanings. Works like a charm

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John

Great thread; more notes for my school binder.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065