My wife has a i frame 642. And she would like a lighter trigger pull.

Our 23 year old daughter likes the 642 but has very weak hands and fingers and has a difficult time shooting the j frame.

So I'm wondering what the "best" system is for reducing the trigger pull.

They both have concealed carry so I want to keep the pull probably not lighter than about 9 lbs to avoid any possible legal issues in the event of a SD shooting and "hair trigger" arguments.

Apex duty carry is about $26, but Wilson combat and I think Wolff are both about $9.

What do you folks recommend?

My 642 had a heavy and awful trigger, 13.5 lbs. I sent it to a master gunsmith who gave me back my 642 with a very smooth 8 lb trigger. It is by no means a 'hair trigger'. It did cost $150 plus shipping both ways, not in the price range of those trigger kits you're looking at.

Unless you are schooled in working on the platform, and have the correct tools, I would suggest doing what Richard M did: contact a good gunsmith. There are aspects beyond simply switching springs which an expert can do to help provide a good, smooth, lighter trigger pull without compromising trigger return and reliable ignition.

Best Regards, Les

__________________
SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

What Les said plus be aware that messing with springs and filing on internal parts can also compromise the built in safetys in the gun. It is not just a matter of throwing in a new spring set. You need to know how to perform the required safety checks or you can end up with an unsafe gun that can go bang when you do not want it to.

I would buy a good set of snap caps and dry fire the little gun 1,000 times before messing with the internals. Dry firing is a good way for the ladies of the family to build finger and hand strength. You will be amazed at the smoothness of the action afterwards. It will also lighten the trigger weight to give you a very nice trigger without altering the gun from factory. Have fun with the 642.

Dry firing will provide two benefits. Strengthen the shooters finger and smooth up the action a bit.

Proper cleaning and lubeing of parts under the side plate will also help.

I chose Wolff kits for all my j-frame because they gave me three rebound spring options. There are YouTube videos that will through changing springs and a light Polish of some internals. My triggers are lighter, noticeably smoother, and most of all, reliable. I have found the 14# rebound springs provide the best performance in my guns.

When my peripheral motor nerve condition started, I was loathe to give up my 442.
My neurologist said I had "profound weakness" in my right hand and moderate weakness in my left.
I decided to take a shot at doing some mods to my 442.
I replaced the rebound spring with an 11 pound Wolff spring and the main spring with a Wolff 8 pound.
Also, while I had it apart, I smoothed the guts a bit with an extra fine Arkansas oil stone.
Now it's still my everyday carry, I can shoot it with either or both hands and it never has a misfire.

__________________
Keep on Chooglin'

I have no problem with changing springs or even polishing the return slide.

I would like to ask if ANYONE has had any problems with light primer strikes or reliability in ANY way with the Apex or Wilson spring kits.

If the real world experience with many and all kinds of ammo etc with, no failures, then I Don't see how it would be bad.

Just like "snubby" above, I picked up the Wolff springs from Midway and did a bit of stoning on the rebound slide. Ended up with a nice 9.5lb pull that was very smooth and repeatable. No problems with any light strikes, etc. since.

FYI, it's any easy job to do, with the hardest part being controlling the spring in the rebound slide. I blew $20 for the Smithmaster tool from Midway and found it to be worth the price.

I put an Apex kit in my 442. Provided a smoother pull and I have not experienced any light primer strikes.

__________________
Bud

I installed the Apex spring and firing pin kit in two J-frame revolvers, models 638 and 640. Both revolvers have improved double action trigger pulls and are completely reliable. The Apex may cost more than the Wolf kit because the Apex kit includes a lengthened firing pin and firing pin return spring.

__________________
DRB #2276

I would agree that the best approach would be to use the services of a good gunsmith to smooth and lighten the trigger pull while staying within factory specs.

However, if I were going to go the spring kit route, my first choice would be the Apex Duty kit since it's specifically designed to keep the DA pull within a duty-acceptable range.

Whichever method you choose, make sure you check for safety and reliability after the changes are made.

My rule of thumb for a defensive revolver is 12# rebound spring, lots of polishing and keep he factory hammer spring. It's the hammer spring that holds the potential to give you light strikes/make the gun ammo sensitive.

__________________
Dave

While many people have had good results changing springs, there are many factors besides springs that can contribute to misfires. For example, short firing pins, endshake, headspace, and friction on the hammer or firing pin can all contribute to misfires.

To some extent, strong springs can compensate for all of these issues. But unless all of these areas are checked, is it not possible to say that a certain spring will work reliably. A qualified gunsmith will check all of these areas while doing trigger work. And anyone can learn to do these basic checks. So if reliability is important, I recommend checking the whole gun over carefully.

Most of these issues would be uncommon in a relatively new gun. But a few years ago, there were many guns with short firing pins. These firing pins caused problems with lightened springs, and they even caused misfires in some guns with factory springs.

For guns with a frame mounted firing pin, I would check that the firing pin is at least .492" long. If not I would replace it. Recent factory replacement firing pins have been fine, but I would still measure them. Or you could use a replacement pin from Apex.

I also think polishing the internals is a critical part of getting a good double action pull. The rebound slide may be the most important area for friction, but there are many other areas that are also worth examining. On J-frame revolvers, the mainspring stirrup can be another significant point of friction. The mainspring stirrup is the support that runs though the center of the mainspring; it would be called the strut on a Ruger.

As the coil mainspring compresses, it becomes tightly pressed against the mainspring stirrup. So there can be friction on the spring as well as on the mainspring swivel. So I make sure the mainspring stirrup is extremely smooth. Also, on recent guns the mainspring stirrup is a cheap stamped part, so it is inexpensive to buy spares.

I installed the Apex kit into two j-frames, one being my EDC M640. The stock trigger was almost unlivable. I found the Apex kit easy to install, and it includes an extended firing pin. After the upgrade, the 640 still had some smoothness issues that have worked out well as parts have worn in together over time, and I've never had a light strike with a wide variety of ammo.

I've not experienced any problems or light primer strikes with either my 637 or model 60 with the Apex Spring Kits in them. Trigger in both is between 8-9lbs double action. Single action is really light though, at 2lbs or less. I've ordered another hammer that I'm going to bob and put in the 637 first. If I like it I'll do the same for the 60-15 Pro.

I've used the Apex kit on a pair of J frames with excellent results.

I'm leaning towards the apex duty carry kit.

I like the idea despite the higher price compared to Wolof or Wilson the fact that apex kit is basically the entire system as a whole. And they have better control of the result as it is a complete system. And not just a replacement of a particular spring and not others.

I have to believe that ic there was something wrong with the apex kit with reliability, that customers would be screaming and apex would have to recall or modify the kit to produce consistently reliable results.

Am I crazy for thinking this way?

Apex has great customer service. Just talked to Wendy today as a matter of fact, about problems they may have heard from folks using the spring kit and having a bobbed hammer. She took the time to go ask Scott Folk about it and came back and reported to me what he said. If you have a problem Apex will help you fix it. Not to mention that the tutorials that they have are excellent!

When doing the light hammer strike testing, be sure to test both single-action, AND double action.
More importantly, do the double-action test in below freezing conditions, such as leaving the loaded gun in the deep-freeze for a few hours and testing immediately ( seconds ) after removal.

On a recently manufactured J frame, say the last 10 years or so, you shouldn't have any firing pin issues. As with any amateur gunsmithing you may do there are certain liability issues that you have to accept. If you're unwilling to accept that responsibility then leave the gun alone.

It'd be difficult to get a "hair trigger" at home unless you went bat**** crazy with a dremel tool or a course stone or abrasive paper. Generally speaking, reducing spring pressure will lighten the trigger pull. While polishing sear mating surfaces will promote action smoothness.

There is alot of good advice on this forum (as well as youtube) on how to accomplish what you're after. Also, some bad advice. Don't bring a dremel tool anywhere near your revolver. Keep in mind there are alot of APEX fanboys on this forum. For semiautomatics I like their products. For J frame revolvers, not so much. I have 10 J frame revolvers, and all sport Wilson spring kits.

Read this post for more info.
The Great American J-Frame Spring Test

__________________
NRA Benefactor