I bought this revolver late last fall before Iowas gun season. I think its a blast to shoot and was able to kill a deer with it first time out. I have shot about 80 rounds through it.
All that has been fired in it so far is Hornady Custom ammunition.
A friend I work with said if you buy the dies and other supplies to reload these he would do it for me. So I got the stuff and took it to him with 80 empty cases. He calls me and says all of this brass is bent. He says when he tries to run the sizing die down over it he has to push over on it to get it to line up. So he grabs at random through the 80 cases and finds they are all bent that way. If you rotate the brass in the shell holder you can see that it turn out of round. If you set them on a flat surface with the bases touching you can see that they are not straight.
I went out and shot 10 more rounds and they are all bent the same way. If you look at the frame of the gun where the firing pin comes through you can see what I would call printing. Where the base of the brass prints or leaves a mark when fired. It doesn't leave a complete circle its only a little more than half. This says to me that there is only slightly more than 1/2 of the base being supported so when fired the base gets pushed back and bends the case when it does. Posted pictures maybe that will make it more clear of what I am talking about.
The gun was sent to Smith&Wesson the cylinder was replaced. I got it back it is still exactly like it was before repair.
Any body else seen this?

Attached Images

	frame 1.jpg (70.1 KB, 203 views)
	Frame 2.jpg (63.8 KB, 194 views)
	bent brass.jpg (92.8 KB, 226 views)

Could the rebound shield be slightly canted at an angle ie not square?

I feel thats exactly whats wrong.

First off..man,those casings look like 12 gauge shells! I am assuming when you returned the revolver to S&W you mentioned the casings getting bent issue? Hard to imagine they would miss the problem..but anything is possible today, I guess. How would they fix a problem like that..replace the gun?

They should at a minimum replace the frame. I think thats the only way they can do it. Replace the frame and restamp it with my serial number. If they replace the gun then it will have to go through a FFL. Either way is ok with me.

Are you sure he's using the right shell holder? I really can't imagine a situation where the rear of the cylinder is not square to the recoil shield and the gun continues to function. If this situation really did exist, I would think that the gun would lock up on the first shot if you could even get a loaded cylinder to close. I think that the problem is with your friends reloading method. And just to put in 2 cents worth, reloading is complicated and can be a dangerous endeavor if not done right. The only person I trust to reload for me is me!

The rounds in the picture came out of the gun nobody has touched them but me. You can see that they are bent. The reloading process had nothing to do with it. And the guy is very competent. You dont need to imagine there is a problem with the gun you can see it.

Looking closer, it seems you might have one or more chambers that might be out of spec on the large side. That would cause the rounds to bulge and the brass to stretch. Because the brass doesn't always flow in a uniform way, you end up with the case mouths being crooked. The bulge would also not necessarily be uniform around the case. That would cause the fired rounds to look crooked. The other thing that might cause a condition like this is poor quality brass and or loads. Are all of the cases the same brand and load? If they are, before you ship off your gun again try a different brand. The 460 works at pressures that are off the charts as far as a revolver is concerned and they can do some odd things. Another possibility could be a headspace problem. That can be caused by a condition called end shake. With the cylinder closed and an empty gun, push it forward and back and check to see if it moves excessively. There will always be some movement but it shouldn't be more than a couple of thousands.

I have shot another brand with a different size Bullet a different amount of powder and a different brand of brass. Hornady factory rounds and Underwood brand ammunition using starline brass.
I can see what's wrong with the gun. My question is for any one that has shot one of these guns do you see something similar.

[QUOTE=fstalli;139458505]
I can see what's wrong with the gun. My question is for any one that has shot one of these guns do you see something similar.[/QUOTE

After handling literally thousands of S&W revolvers as a police armorer and having owned and fired 460's and 500's and just about every other caliber, the answer is, no, I have never seen a frame that was out of square. I've seen them stretch and crack but I've never seen one out of square. I'm certainly not saying that it can't or hasn't happened but I've not seen it and I would be interested to know if any other armorers out there have. When you get your gun fixed, please let us know how the factory diagnosed the problem and what the fix is. If it is indeed as you say, that would be a first for me and I bet a lot of others here.

It looks to me like the frame is out of square. If it's doing the same thing with 2 different cylinders, that is about all that's left. The right way to fix it is a new frame.

If you can't get Smith to do that, it might be corrected with a spot face tool with a long shank guided by the bore, then filed flat to match the spotface. It should only take a few thou. to clean up. Don't know what the starting headspace is, it might be OK or might be a bit long.

That is an odd one. I would get S&W on the phone and get that critter sent back again. Include some spent brass.

Thank you for those last few reply's. When the gun was returned for repair I did send 2 spent casings. So they could see them. They did replace the cylinder and repair the frame. Thats all the repair ticket I got says.
There may have been other clues to this guns problem. The very first 5 rounds and probably the next 20 came out of the cylinder hard this seem to lessen the more you fired it. The first 5 when I rolled the cylinder out I expected to push the extractor rod and they would push right out.No I was gentle with it at first but it finally took a hard pop with the palm of my hand to drive them out.

You re lucky, happy end. I bought my 586 6" produced between 1990 1992, my HD is produced in 2001, no injection no alarm, the quality will change after 2003 and the best Corbin seats for HD are produced before 2005.
New times new qualities.....

fstalli---Sorry you are having trouble w/your 460...l remember when you first got it last Fall..From the experiences l have had w/my 460 l must say there is a learning curve in loading for it..All revolving around the sizing of those super long 460 cases..l learned really QUICK you must have the proper shell holder and dies..#46 Hornady shell holder...Hornady 460 Mag 4 die carbide set. Being extremely careful sizing them and making sure they stay perfectly STRAIGHT while sizing..Bent a couple myself while sizing my first few too :-(... Another step in loading my 460 l found was cleanliness..l tumble my cases TWICE..Before and after sizing..No more bent cases either:-)...Even tho it's possible to shoot 45Colt in my 460 l found out the hard way it's not a really good idea....The shorter 45c case deposits a carbon ring that causes problems when you try and a Shoot longer 460 cases after 45s...Took me FOREVER to get the cyl clean afterwards..No more short rounds for my 460....
I really don't see how you can be getting these problems w/bent cases from shooting...lf this were so it would be next to impossible to extract them and the gun would be locked up..unable to turn cylinder ..
Hopefully, ruggyh will post..He has more 460 experience than most anyone

SW282 I saw your post about the short rounds and the cleaning troubles you had after shooting them. That post is why I havent shot them in my gun. On this post and every time I have typed anything about this problem I wish I had not mentioned anything about reloading. This problem truly has nothing to do with reloading but it seems that when people read about it the word Reloading is all they see.
The gun has never locked up but it is always harder than it should be to clear the cylinder.
I will get a straight edge on the surface that I think is the problem and post a picture of it.
I did use every thing that you describe when reloading. But please dont get stuck on that.

OH yeah one more time no reloaded rounds have been fired in this gun.

fstalli - Please take a close-up picture of one of these bent cases.
Preferably beside a straight edge or unfired factory round..
Just need to get a clear image of the bent description..

thanks..282

I put in this picture of the firing pin area this is after the repair. You cant see in the picture but you can tell this is the area they worked on. It is slightly better but the base of that casing should be printing a full circle in that area.

Attached Images

	frame.jpg (53.4 KB, 49 views)
	bent next to new1.jpg (87.0 KB, 50 views)
	bent next to new 2.jpg (86.4 KB, 45 views)
	bent next to ruler.jpg (87.2 KB, 46 views)

Sir...l can see it is NOT an ammunition...lt looks like the recoil shield/frame are not SQUARE with the rear of the cylinder..
As evidenced by the fired cases compared to Unfired rounds...This can be clearly seen in pic with the straight edge...
Not a real problem unless it interferes with the normal function and shooting of the gun...
But lt is A problem if you want to reload your cases..
Only a good machinist/gunsmith can produce a FIX.
I am neither

Man, that is sure some screwy stuff! Definitely the frame isn't square with the cylinder. Those would be some good pictures to send to S&W and request a whole new frame at the very least. That cartidge is extremely high pressure for a pistol type cartridge and warping brass like that is worrying to me.