Kinda a Queer Duck Here...maybe...

millerj7 · #51 02-18-2017, 11:42 AM

Just thought I would show off (?) my ugly duckling. Picked up at a gun show for $150. Had the bobbed hammer shown and I chased down the proper replacement ($30) 'cuz I like the single action option. It is a Chief's Spl. Airweight (became Mod. 37) with a s/n of 643xx (no prefix.) Story was it was a LEO's backup carried all its life in an ankle holster. I thought about refinishing because internals are perfect, tight lockup, shoots great...then decided against it, since the alloy frame will not rust and it no longer be the "Jeep Gun" I bought it to be. The wear is honest from use for over 60 years and would be like giving Nancy Pelosi a facelift (another one, that is!)
Jim

Jdavis · #52 02-18-2017, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USARMYSPEC4

She may have been run hard and put away wet a few times, but it looks great to me. Shows some signs of the hard work it has been doing.

Perhaps but, it looks more like abuse than hard work to me. Most here seem to like the grunge look but, I just couldn't leave a fine old S&W looking like that if I could do anything about it.

Cocked & Locked · #53 02-18-2017, 12:14 PM

Handsome Chief that is! As far as the finish, if was mine I would buy some browning solution like used on muzzle loaders and have it. Leaves a nice smooth plum-brown color.

Wally West · #54 02-19-2017, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CajunBass

It looks better in real life than in the pictures really. These are after maybe an hour with Flitz, and a couple of spots with a Scotch Brite pad.

It doesn't look a lot different, but it FEELS different. The metal felt like sandpaper before. Now it's smooth. I pulled the sideplate and the internals look fine. The gunscrubber bath cleaned out the old gunk, and a drop or two of Break Free slicked it up.

I'm thinking I might try cold bluing it. I got nothing to lose and can always start over.

I'd try it. Looks like the perfect gun to practice on.

Cocked & Locked · #55 02-19-2017, 09:25 AM

Quote:

I'm thinking I might try cold bluing it. I got nothing to lose and can always start over.

All cold bluing I've tried, regardless of brand, leaves the gun smelling bad...as in it makes the gun really stink. Smell doesn't go away.

photoman · #56 02-19-2017, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texasfisher

Can you tell me what brand the grips are on this piece, I would like to have a set on my Mod. 13, 3".

Altamont K frame round butt...

Smith & Wesson K/L Frame Round Butt Revolver Grips | Altamont Company

g8rb8 · #57 02-19-2017, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GF

Don't change the finish.
Find a beater holster & put it in.

Tell everyone that sees it that you bought it new and carried it everyday.

" Yeah, I remember the day I was pinned down behind the bar. All I had was my ol' J frame. Shot all six of 'em - no reload. But I don't wanna talk about it."

GF

You need just a bit more embellishment with the above story. Considering it's a J-frame change it to, "Shot all six of 'em, two with one bullet - no reload."

It looks like you caught that revolver with a fishing rod? Probably in the vicinity of a boating accident.

Doug M. · #58 02-19-2017, 12:16 PM

This has the look of a gun carried for serious reasons for a long time, like a BUG for a cop working someplace rough when a J frame was the best choice going for that role. The bobbed hammer is a clue. The decent action on it means that someone shot it a lot, or dry fired a similar amount, and the well cared for bore and cylinder is consistent with it being a hard use gun for a hard place.

amazingflapjack · #59 02-19-2017, 12:30 PM

Yeah-they might have tried to "improve it" with some spray paint-then had second thoughts, followed by the sand paper you mentioned.

jw mathews · #60 02-19-2017, 09:26 PM

The hammer spur could have been removed at the factory. S&W would do this sort of thing on special order. Single action notch could have been removed also if customer wanted the revolver to be DAO.

CajunBass · #61 02-20-2017, 09:27 AM

Well, I did a cold blue job on it over the weekend. I'm sure not going to tell you that it looks like brand new, but it looks better. Of course, it couldn't look much worse I suppose.

I made no attempt to buff out the pitting. That's above my pay grade and I know it. I cleaned up, degreased it, and polished it up a little with steel wool and then Flitz and got the metal fairly clean. I then applied the cold blue paste (Birchwood Casey).

Now it has the look of a somewhat worn blue finish. I didn't get it applied as evenly as I should have, but it's my first attempt at it.

Don't laugh now.

I'll probably strip it and redo it before too long, but for now, it'll do.

Cocked & Locked · #62 02-20-2017, 10:35 AM

Does it pass the sniff test or does it have that cold blue aroma?

CajunBass · #63 02-20-2017, 10:53 AM

No odor that I can tell.

labworm · #64 02-20-2017, 01:17 PM

Now you can refer to it as a "Rare one of a kind Model 36".

CajunBass · #65 02-20-2017, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by labworm

Now you can refer to it as a "Rare one of a kind Model 36".

Well...that's one way to look at it.

millerj7 · #66 02-20-2017, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CajunBass

Well, I did a cold blue job on it over the weekend. I'm sure not going to tell you that it looks like brand new, but it looks better. Of course, it couldn't look much worse I suppose.

I made no attempt to buff out the pitting. That's above my pay grade and I know it. I cleaned up, degreased it, and polished it up a little with steel wool and then Flitz and got the metal fairly clean. I then applied the cold blue paste (Birchwood Casey).

Now it has the look of a somewhat worn blue finish. I didn't get it applied as evenly as I should have, but it's my first attempt at it.

Don't laugh now.

I'll probably strip it and redo it before too long, but for now, it'll do.

CajunBass, I don't think it looks all that bad (and I certainly would not laugh) and if nothing else you provided a little protection against further rust/pitting. One suggestion if you decide to strip and re-do:
I once had a first year Ruger Blackhawk Flat-top .44 that was pitted in spots beyond polishing. I had the smith (Gary Reeder) bead blast it before bluing. Basically camouflaged the pits and ended up with a pretty even matte finish.
I understand Dura Coat also has a Dura Fill product that is applied before the finish for cases such as this, but I have no experience with it (don't care for painted guns!)
In any case, best of luck whichever way you go.
Jim

Jdavis · #67 02-20-2017, 05:33 PM

It looks better and will look even better the more coats of that paste you apply. I did a shotgun with that product years ago and I must have put 8 or 10 coats on it before the blue looked deep enough. You can get surprisingly good results the more coats you apply and lightly buffing with 0000 steel wool between coats.

Pete from Perth · #68 02-21-2017, 07:59 AM

I bet it shoots like a new one. I have a rough set of J frame RB S&W grips if you want them!

Atlast357 · #69 02-22-2017, 01:22 AM

Interesting how much attention this "6 shot" 36 is getting so far.
If you clean it any more,your fan base might disappear.

Tyrod · #70 02-22-2017, 02:49 AM

Brownell's Oxpho Blue and a heat gun/hair dryer. Or Duracoat now makes a spray on bluing paint. Either way, the finished product looks very good. Check youtube for extensive instructions for either product.

BTW, The new Duracoat bluing paint would be an excellent finish for aluminum framed guns. It looks a great deal like the original paint S&W used on Model 37s.

BigBill · #71 02-22-2017, 11:05 AM

Get some simi chrome polish with some elbow grease and polish that baby up. No one lets baby sit in the corner looking like that not even ugly Betty.