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Old 03-15-2017, 03:16 PM
themush74 themush74 is offline
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Angry 617 .22 lr

After just shooting 50 cartridges everything that is posted on threads and forums that can go wrong went wrong. the trigger jammed, mis fires with DA pulls and the cartridge got stuck in the cylinder.
I called S&W said to return it they sent me out a label told me 3-4 weeks before they look at it. It is not like i had this gun for 2 years and neglecting it I had it for less than 24 hours. I guess threads and reviews are pretty accurate, this gun is a piece of junk. going to see if I can return it if not ill sell it.this was my first and last S&W.

Last edited by themush74; 03-15-2017 at 03:17 PM. Reason: mis spelled a word
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:39 PM
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Send it back and let them clean up the issue list even if you do decide to sell it. Having a summary / clean bill of health from S&W will make it easier to get a proper price for it.

As to returning it, if you can actually do that, more power to you.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:05 PM
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This is your 3d post about the same problems with the same pistol. Have you contacted S&W customer service? If not, that's what I'd do.

Then please let us know your experience.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:05 PM
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Well, if you can't figure out the proper place to post things in a forum, I guess expecting you to follow their directions to return it for repair are out of the question.

Good luck.
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:18 PM
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Yes they sent me a return label. I know problems exist but to read post and have everything in the post happen to one gun????? Also right out of the box
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom S. View Post
Well, if you can't figure out the proper place to post things in a forum, I guess expecting you to follow their directions to return it for repair are out of the question.

Good luck.
I't is my first time posting Sorry Mr. Perfect
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:48 PM
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First let me say welcome to the forum.

Second let me also say that I'm sorry your 617 has issues.

----

Problems with new S&Ws are not common but they do happen. As noted above, call S&W (don't e-email they never seem to respond to those) and talk to them about the problems you are having. They'll most likely give you a return authorization and send you a pre-paid shipping label to return it. You can send it back in the box it came in, I just recommend placing that box inside another box, or at least taking a larger box and cutting it down to fit over the one it came in. More protection, less obvious it has a handgun in it.

Once S&W has fixed the problem, provided it did not require a new frame or new revolver, they'll send it directly back to you. If it did require a new frame or replacement revolver, they'll have to ship it to an FFL, but they should cover the transfer fee, if any. If it's an S&W dealer, no fee should be involved.

As for some of the posts in your thread...let me apologize for some of what's been said or implied.

When problems happen to a new S&W owner, it's not uncommon for the new owner to search for a Smith and Wesson internet forum and, for obvious reasons, find this one. If they are familiar with forum searches, they then do a search for threads by other people who have similar problems. When they find them, they then often post in that thread and in the process resurrect a zombie thread.

I'd argue there is actually nothing wrong with that. It's what the search function is for, and why re-invent the wheel, right? Other people probably feel differently. I try not to judge.

There are sometimes a few folks who don't look at it from the perspective of someone who just put down hard earned money to bring home a new S&W that doesn't work. They might even be some what offended and see it as an indictment against a brand they like a lot - and then, perhaps understandably, get a little short or snarky in their responses.

The important thing is not to let it bother you and don't take it personally as some folks will write things on a forum that they'd never say in person in the polite company of others. It shouldn't be that way but sometimes it happens.

Again, please accept an apology. This forum is actually a nice, friendly and helpful place and the very few folks who might make it seem differently at times are a very, very small minority. Feel free to ignore them.

Let us know how it shoots once S&W makes it right.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:17 PM
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I feel for the OP. I have terrible luck as a consumer.I got a defective toaster once. I have Anderson doors in my house but they don't sell replacement
windows for there doors. We buy $12 things wall Mart that are made in China and they work. I would expect a $600 or more piece of american steel to work properly. The trouble is if it doesn't work you can't just take it back to the store and exchange it. This, after the 10 day wait, can take a week or two longer. VERY disappointing to say the least. Good luck hope it turns out ok. Also after they fix it keep it and shoot it!
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:22 PM
Wee Hooker Wee Hooker is offline
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Nothing to see here, Move along...
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:47 PM
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Default What ammo are you using?

themush74 ------ Are you by chance using Winchester or Browning ammo?

I've had serious problems with that ammo lately binding all my 617's, the Browning has been swelling up near the rim and then starts binding the cylinder making it hard to pull the hammer and trigger. Also many dud rounds with Browning.

The Winchester (especially the 222 packs I've been getting) sticks so bad in the cylinder that I have to tap the extractor with something. I have 3 617's and never had that problem with other ammo.

I will never buy that ammo again for use in my 617's.

Just a thought.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:52 PM
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I know the disappointment you are feeling. If you look back at my old posts you will see I bought a new 617. That is some serious coin for most of us. After saving and sacrificing You have high hopes for what should be the finest 22 revolver available.

When I took mine to the range i could not get my sight to POA. With all the adjustment I was still hitting way high and way left. While cleaning I noticed the barrel was badly canted.

I returned it to SW. I was feeling kind of like you do now. I even went and bought a Ruger GP100 22. (not that I regret it it is a fine revolver too).

Less than 3 weeks later I had my 617 back. They straightened the barrel and replaced my rear sight. Even returned my original. All at no cost to me.

I took it to the range and it shot one centered ragged hole with out having to adjust. And I can,t prove it but I swear they smoothed the action and trigger somehow.

It a shame some make it out with problems but give them a chance to make it right. Mine is now one of my favorites and will pass it on someday.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:21 PM
themush74 themush74 is offline
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well said and thank you. Fortunately, money is not the problem with me it is the amount they charged for a .22. It is like paying for a piece of prime cut beef and it comes out tough. everything you said was done I did speak with a supervisor he is taking care of it as he said but in no expedited time.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:13 PM
Mike, SC Hunter Mike, SC Hunter is offline
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Chances are if you had tightened the main spring down all the way....Put a drop of oil or 2 on the internals and taken a .22 bore brush to the range all would have ended well........

.22 Smiths have tight chambers and .22's case of today are made somewhat thinner brass and .22's are dirty.....A cylinder scrub every few cylinders usually eases extraction.....BTW I have a 4" 617....never had a problem adhering to the above..........
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:44 PM
themush74 themush74 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike, SC Hunter View Post
Chances are if you had tightened the main spring down all the way....Put a drop of oil or 2 on the internals and taken a .22 bore brush to the range all would have ended well........

.22 Smiths have tight chambers and .22's case of today are made somewhat thinner brass and .22's are dirty.....A cylinder scrub every few cylinders usually eases extraction.....BTW I have a 4" 617....never had a problem adhering to the above..........
i did check the screw it was all the way tightened. i also checked the key lock. i did not check the spring I did try a second ammo and only the misfires happened in DA shooting. could you tell me what kind of ammo you use
thank you

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Old 03-15-2017, 10:49 PM
themush74 themush74 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS-10-SPEED View Post
themush74 ------ Are you by chance using Winchester or Browning ammo?

I've had serious problems with that ammo lately binding all my 617's, the Browning has been swelling up near the rim and then starts binding the cylinder making it hard to pull the hammer and trigger. Also many dud rounds with Browning.

The Winchester (especially the 222 packs I've been getting) sticks so bad in the cylinder that I have to tap the extractor with something. I have 3 617's and never had that problem with other ammo.

I will never buy that ammo again for use in my 617's.

Just a thought.
what ammo do you use. the first ammo i do not recall the name as fpr the second ammo it was cci and fixes 2 of three problems
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:15 PM
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Default S&W Model 617

Sir.
Sorry your new 617 did not meet expectations. I know that sense of frustration. I had a Browning Citori 16 gauge bird gun that would not shoot the top barrel the first time I took it out to the skeet range. It needed some wood relieved inside the fore end stock and then all was right. Sounds to me as if you might of had multiple problems, ammo appears to have been one of them and the gun may have also had issues.
Take a big, deep breath, and lets S&W do their thing, try several brands of ammo and in time it will all work out
Do not give up on S&W K22's. They are the best.
I have an old 617 square butt that has worn several sets of grips as I experiment with them. Current pic is stags. It handles the best with older Diamond Target K frame grips.
This K22 never had a problem during break in time and has shot a lot a ammo.
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Old 03-16-2017, 12:41 AM
Mike, SC Hunter Mike, SC Hunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themush74 View Post
i did check the screw it was all the way tightened. i also checked the key lock. i did not check the spring I did try a second ammo and only the misfires happened in DA shooting. could you tell me what kind of ammo you use
thank you
I shoot Winchester/Remington/CCI/military surplus/Aquila/Federal......Don't have problems except the occasional rd that turns out to be a dud...........
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Old 03-16-2017, 04:26 AM
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Default Good and bad news

My 617 is just 6 weeks old. Accurate and in one range session I ran 400rds of Federal aotomatch and Winchester M22 without any feeding or ejection problems BUT my new gun has a timing issue. On about half the chambers the cylinder stop is not locking the cylinder. it's so close that if I twist my wrist It will lock. Wishful thinking had me hope it would "break in" but it has 1200rds through it and has to go back. I can accept that, hope they make it right.

Here is the bad part. I used the email option for customer service. Told them the issue, serial number, model#, my email, my ph#, my name, address. I got an auto reply that said they would get back to me in 3-5 days. Well, 3 days later they did! I got an email from them asking me for the "issue, serial number, model#, my email, my ph#, my name, address"and they'll get back in 3 days. I don't think my first mail was even read and I'll call them later. Oddly, the gun shoots well with no other issues, runs fairly clean, no leading, binding and it's accurate but I clean it meticulously and it's going back.

Anyway, call 'em. Don't email 'em
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themush74 View Post
what ammo do you use. the first ammo i do not recall the name as fpr the second ammo it was cci and fixes 2 of three problems
I use CCI mini mags, Federal Automatch and Champion and Remington (except Thunderbolts, too many duds). Winchester used to work for many years but anything lately the brass gets stuck in the cylinder and Browning (made by Olin also) binds the cylinder against the frame.

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Old 03-16-2017, 09:13 AM
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We just moved into a brand new house. It's shocking what appliances cost nowadays. You're talking PC handgun prices for the basic models.
So, one week in, my wife complains, "the washing machine doesn't work"

OK, she calls the factory authorized "Maytag" repairman. Yes, there really is one, he services Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool, etc. They're all the same with a different badge.

Since my new place is not on any GPS maps, the guy calls and asks for directions. We tell him the Stonexxxxx development. He retorts, "OK, I know where it is".
The nice gent enters our house and says "I've been here many times, I've been in almost every house, these new appliances are very finicky" . There's some 25 houses up out of a planned 200+.


Not trying to make excuses for you receiving a bum handgun, but quality is lacking in many product areas.

BTW, there was nothing wrong with our washing machine, it was user error.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:02 AM
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So...misfires and stuck cartridges are common "problems" with all .22 revolvers, and when you switch to CCI, it doesn't do that anymore. That's not a gun issue, that's an ammunition issue.

How many times did the trigger "jam", did it continue to do that with the CCI, and what precisely does that mean? Did the trigger stick to the rear after firing, did it hang up after cocking, or did it refuse to move to the rear in double-action?

Declaring it a "piece of junk" after 50 rounds...you know, you're right. Better send it to me.

Quote:
Fortunately, money is not the problem with me it is the amount they charged for a .22. It is like paying for a piece of prime cut beef and it comes out tough.
What're the 617 going for? $700?

I have well over $1000 in my .22 auto. The 617 is probably just as accurate, with a trigger that's almost as good.

Model 41s are up to about $1200. Nobody who has one would ever suggest they aren't worth it. They can be finicky buggers, too. But hey--don't buy a racecar and fill the tank with pump gas. And compared to the guns that the 41 competes against, it's not very choosy at all.

I'd say the 617 is a steal. It's a scant $60 more than the GP-100 .22, and built the same way as S&W's centerfires--no cheaped-out frames, aluminum, or plastic.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themush74 View Post
what ammo do you use. the first ammo i do not recall the name as fpr the second ammo it was cci and fixes 2 of three problems
Sorry to hear of your 617 issues. Mine has been great out of the box. S&W will fix it and then you will love the critter.

I shoot Fed AutoMatch. I have shot over a case (about 4000) and had only one failure to fire. I rotated the cartridge and it fired. Maybe the priming compound was not evenly distributed.

Here is mine with a cheap green dot. I had to monkey with the cheap sight a bit at first but it has worked well since and holds zero. It would probably not survive the wet or high recoil but fine for this application. I use Burris FastFire on heavy recoil handguns.

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Old 03-16-2017, 12:23 PM
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I can't speak to the 617, but I have noted that my Model 17 can have cases that are harder to eject than .38 +P brass is in my Model 66 or Model 19. That's interesting given the far smaller surface area of the six .22 LR cases, compared to six .38's. It's stiff enough at times that the FBI reload just won't work and I've reverted to the Stress Fire method to eject the empties.

I've also noted that a buildup of powder residue under the ejector star is uncommon in the center fire calibers. If it happens it's with colloidal ball powders where the larger unburnt or partially burnt powder grains are large enough to immediately prevent the cylinder from going back in the frame.

In contrast, it is a potential issue with some types of .22 LR ammo, where the powder residue builds up under the star and starts to cause the star to bind against the recoil shield, making it nautically harder to close the cylinder.

Since I tend to shoot a couple hundred rounds per range session, I'ver started taking a plastic cleaning brush to clean the surfaces between the star and the cylinder every 50 rounds or so.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom S. View Post
Well, if you can't figure out the proper place to post things in a forum, I guess expecting you to follow their directions to return it for repair are out of the question.

Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wise_A View Post
So...misfires and stuck cartridges are common "problems" with all .22 revolvers, and when you switch to CCI, it doesn't do that anymore. That's not a gun issue, that's an ammunition issue.

How many times did the trigger "jam", did it continue to do that with the CCI, and what precisely does that mean? Did the trigger stick to the rear after firing, did it hang up after cocking, or did it refuse to move to the rear in double-action?

Declaring it a "piece of junk" after 50 rounds...you know, you're right. Better send it to me.



What're the 617 going for? $700?

I have well over $1000 in my .22 auto. The 617 is probably just as accurate, with a trigger that's almost as good.

Model 41s are up to about $1200. Nobody who has one would ever suggest they aren't worth it. They can be finicky buggers, too. But hey--don't buy a racecar and fill the tank with pump gas. And compared to the guns that the 41 competes against, it's not very choosy at all.

I'd say the 617 is a steal. It's a scant $60 more than the GP-100 .22, and built the same way as S&W's centerfires--no cheaped-out frames, aluminum, or plastic.
As for the trigger Jam i am referring to the trigger would not pull back nor would the hammer cock back. Whatever the technical terms are it would not pull back to fire also the hammer would not pull back to single fire either. I understand this is a very reputable company but nothing should come out of the box that way whether i pay $1 or $10,00 fir something.
So there is a forum, I post what actually went wrong with my gun and i get scalded upon. not like I'm making this stuff up.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wise_A View Post
So...misfires and stuck cartridges are common "problems" with all .22 revolvers, and when you switch to CCI, it doesn't do that anymore. That's not a gun issue, that's an ammunition issue.

How many times did the trigger "jam", did it continue to do that with the CCI, and what precisely does that mean? Did the trigger stick to the rear after firing, did it hang up after cocking, or did it refuse to move to the rear in double-action?

Declaring it a "piece of junk" after 50 rounds...you know, you're right. Better send it to me.




What're the 617 going for? $700?

I have well over $1000 in my .22 auto. The 617 is probably just as accurate, with a trigger that's almost as good.

Model 41s are up to about $1200. Nobody who has one would ever suggest they aren't worth it. They can be finicky buggers, too. But hey--don't buy a racecar and fill the tank with pump gas. And compared to the guns that the 41 competes against, it's not very choosy at all.

I'd say the 617 is a steal. It's a scant $60 more than the GP-100 .22, and built the same way as S&W's centerfires--no cheaped-out frames, aluminum, or plastic.
It still misfired with the CCi ammo on DA pulls!!!!
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ladder13 View Post
We just moved into a brand new house. It's shocking what appliances cost nowadays. You're talking PC handgun prices for the basic models.
So, one week in, my wife complains, "the washing machine doesn't work"

OK, she calls the factory authorized "Maytag" repairman. Yes, there really is one, he services Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool, etc. They're all the same with a different badge.

Since my new place is not on any GPS maps, the guy calls and asks for directions. We tell him the Stonexxxxx development. He retorts, "OK, I know where it is".
The nice gent enters our house and says "I've been here many times, I've been in almost every house, these new appliances are very finicky" . There's some 25 houses up out of a planned 200+.


Not trying to make excuses for you receiving a bum handgun, but quality is lacking in many product areas.

BTW, there was nothing wrong with our washing machine, it was user error.
i guess i need to learn how to shoot a revolver sorry S&W
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:31 PM
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I've already said "send it back", so we'll leave that one.

I own a GP100 in .22 and in .357. Went by my LGS, and they have the 617 in two sizes on sale, so had to fondle them. But I was disappointed in the finishing. It was inconsistent, and comparing the two, the Ruger on their shelf appears cleaner and brighter than the 617 just to start. Barrel was straight, action worked, and I am still considering the purchase, but I see a lot of work to bring the finish up to par (lots of scratches and buffing marks in the SS finish).

I am still considering one based on the price.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:33 PM
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As for the trigger Jam i am referring to the trigger would not pull back nor would the hammer cock back. Whatever the technical terms are it would not pull back to fire also the hammer would not pull back to single fire either. I understand this is a very reputable company but nothing should come out of the box that way whether i pay $1 or $10,00 fir something.
So there is a forum, I post what actually went wrong with my gun and i get scalded upon. not like I'm making this stuff up.
What you've described sounds like you are short stroking the action when firing double action. I've seen this and experienced it first hand on many guns, and is a fault of the operator, not the gun. Try shooting single action only and see what happens. If it functions OK, then try shooting DA with a slow steady pull. If it works for both of these, then I'm sure it's what I suggested. It happens when you hesitate slightly during a fast DA pull, enough to let momentum get ahead of your pressure on the trigger, or if you happen to let slightly off the trigger and then try to apply pressure again. This would explain why S&W found nothing wrong with the gun. The 10 shot 617 has a very short throw because the cylinder doesn't have far to travel. In theory, this would seem to help stop the short stroke from happening, but in my experience it actually makes it worse.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:41 PM
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i guess i need to learn how to shoot a revolver sorry S&W
I wasn't implying that YOU don't know how to operate you gun only that we didn't know how to operate our washer.
I'm self deprecating, sorry you missed that.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:47 PM
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Maybe it's not a big deal.

1. Yes it sucks, you purchased an expensive NIB firearm and it has factory flaws pertaining to the functional operation.

2. It's a S&W. They will fix it for free. They will even send you a free S&H label. It will be returned to you free of charge.

3. You could be a leg up on other NIB gun owners. Your personal gun is going to get personal attention. Be inspected, maybe refined with upgrades (it's happened) and repaired to better working conditions than when you initially received the gun from the factory line. It may have missed QC before being wrapped in paper and boxed, but now it will be eyeballed by a repair technician.

BTW, I had a $1500.00 PC952 shipped back to the factory two times for repair. It happens, you are not alone.

Good luck!
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:51 PM
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I wasn't implying that YOU don't know how to operate you gun only that we didn't know how to operate our washer.
I'm self deprecating, sorry you missed that.
I'm surprised to hear about the washer purchase, so the misses isn't using the wash board anymore.
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Old 03-17-2017, 12:56 PM
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I'm surprised to hear about the washer purchase, so the misses isn't using the wash board anymore.
Looks like you came out of winter hibernation 😛 All is well in Bahhhston. 👍
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:40 PM
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Looks like you came out of winter hibernation 😛 All is well in Bahhhston. 👍
Everything is fine with me, Stanley Cup just around the corner
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Old 03-17-2017, 03:58 PM
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I feel your pain. A revolver costing as much as a 617 should be expected to work and work well, right put of the box. Mine didn't. My new 617 had failure to fire problems and after checking everything I could check and not finding a remedy, I had to contact S&W and return it to them for repair. S&W customer service was great. I phoned them a couple of times to check on the status of the work and was courteously kept informed. S&W replaced the strain screw and firing pin. From the time I handed my gun to my dealer to send it in until I had it back in my hands was exactly 12 days. It has been flawless ever since. It's hard to beat that for service!

You have the top of the line S&W .22 revolver. I would let S&W repair it and then enjoy your new gun when you get it back. If you like it as much as I like mine, it will become your number one range gun.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:54 AM
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I really like revolvers.

I really like 22s.

But I am done with 22 revolvers. I have said that before only to buy another but this time I really mean it.

The ammo tends to be dirty which can bind up tightly fitted actions. Case rims can vary in thickness which can cause binding. And the ammo is hard to set off so you have to choose between unreliable ignition or a very heavy DA trigger pull. It seems like small guns with a 9 or 10 shot capacity tend to have more problems with the action binding up but I don't know if that is due to the parts being small or the other problems associated with 22 revolvers.

I have owned a couple of 22 revolvers and shot several more. The first one I owned was a Taurus 94 I bought about 25 years ago and had to send back a few times for repair. The action started binding up in SA twice and once the barrel started twisting. The DA pull was very heavy as expected. I attributed those problems due to its being a Taurus and sold it but after shooting a couple of small S&W .22s I swore off 22 revolvers instead of buying a S&W 63.

Last year I saw the ads Ruger was running stating the new GP100 22 had the same light trigger pull as the centerfire version and I liked the idea of a nice 22 revolver so much I ordered one sight unseen. The DA pull was about 15 pounds and SA it was nearly 7. It was smooth in DA and crisp in SA but heavier than I expected. The Ruger was accurate and as reliable as 22 can be but I never really warmed up to it. Part of that was the trigger and part of that was the gun being really heavy for a .22. I knew how much it weighed when I bought it but hoped it would be one of those guns that feel lighter than they really are. It wasn't. I also had a Ruger Single Six for several years which always worked fine but was less accurate and more trouble than my S&W 41.

Like others have suggested I would send your gun back and let S&W fix it. But when it comes back consider selling it and buying a nice 22 semiauto. When fed good ammo they are trouble free compared to revolvers. I really like my S&W 41 but Ruger and other companies makes nice ones too. Just make sure that if you get the Ruger it is the new model that is easy to take apart.

I bought my S&W 41 in the early 90s and it broke before I got two full magazines through it. Something in the slide broke and the gun locked up solid. I sent it back to S&W, they fixed it and it is now one of my all time favorite guns. No problems that were not ammo related in over 20 years and many, many thousands of rounds through it. QA issues are nothing new. And S&W has always stood behind their products. While I prefer and recommend 22 pistols over 22 revolvers give S&W a chance to make it right before you look at other 22 revolvers.

Last edited by Dave Lively; 03-18-2017 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 03-18-2017, 11:40 AM
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I bought my 17 in 1982, I think?? Too far back to remember... With the long tom barrel, it has been flawless from the start and is the finest revolver I have ever owned - among many. Still, 22 ammo quality varies a lot and does have some impact on experience at the range. I had some case sticking issues in the past and did not like pounding them out with my palm, so I took it to a good smith who gently honed the chambers and the problem has only happened very occasionally since. The residue build-up solution has been spoken to and I agree - bring a range brush, as these guns can eat a lot of ammo in a session with resultant fowling getting pretty bad.

Today, my biggest issue - which is minor in terms of functional problems - is that the ejector rod rotates out of the threaded position every two cylinders and can jam the crane if I don't give it a pinch to re-seat it. I do this subliminally now and don't even notice. Like me, it's getting old.

The comment about short stroking the trigger in DA mode is something to consider. I've done that with my M60 and former M66, both of which are made for defensive shooting and should be exercised that way in rapid combat training. Problems can happen, as evidenced by the recent breakage of the hammer nose (firing pin) on the 60 - going to the smith today..

The 17's and 617's are more target/small game oriented handguns and single action fire is the best and most reliable method of use, IMO. When operated in SA, the accuracy is astounding over any distance that a .22 round can be landed.

I hope S&W comes through for the OP.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:16 PM
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I had the same problem as the OP when testing different ammo. The cheap stuff was so dirty that after one cylinder the chambers would not extra the cases unless I clean the gun with a brass brush. That same junk will get under the star and cause problems with the trigger.

Keep it clean and use good ammo. CCI in any variety will work flawlessly in my 617. So does Federal Automatch. I count on the ammo to work every time because I'm shooting Steel Challenge matches and can't afford to have the gun not fire or be able to reload when needed.

I can run about 500 rounds of the good ammo without having to clean the cylinders or under the star.

My gun is also tuned very well. It has a 7 lb double action trigger and will reliably fire the ammo I suggested.

The worst ammo I tried : Thunderbolts, Armscorp, Aguila, Winchester.

Bring a brush with you to the range and do a quick cleaning often and that should solve your problems.

Smith will send you back a gun in perfect working order. After that you need to take care of it. Break it in like a new car. Run good ammo for at least 500 rounds.
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:30 PM
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Default Cylinder Replacement for Model 617

I have 2 of the S&W .22 revolvers with the aluminum cylinders and occaisionally have the sticky chambers problem.

Am considering calling S & W to see if they will replace the aluminum cylinders with stainless ones so I can scrub the chambers with copper brushes instead of nylon ones, and not have to baby them so much.

Has anyone here had that done?

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Old 04-19-2017, 02:17 PM
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As stated i was going to post when I received my 617 back. S&W replaced all needed parts, cylinder, firing pin and Spring. I took it today and so far all is well. It took about 5-6 weeks for the repair. so far so good.
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:54 PM
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...S&W replaced all needed parts, cylinder, firing pin and Spring...
All those parts replaced on a new gun? Wow. I wonder how that got out of the production area when it was new with that many problems..?

Hope it works great for you from now on, glad you have it back in time for summer.
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Old 04-19-2017, 04:03 PM
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Glad to learn your 617 is back and working. Mine has been flawless ever since coming back from S&W. I hope yours is too.
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Old 04-19-2017, 04:43 PM
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After just shooting 50 cartridges everything that is posted on threads and forums that can go wrong went wrong. the trigger jammed, mis fires with DA pulls and the cartridge got stuck in the cylinder.
I called S&W said to return it they sent me out a label told me 3-4 weeks before they look at it. It is not like i had this gun for 2 years and neglecting it I had it for less than 24 hours. I guess threads and reviews are pretty accurate, this gun is a piece of junk. going to see if I can return it if not ill sell it.this was my first and last S&W.
SADLY---WHEN IT COMES TO S&W, IT APPEARS THAT QUALITY CONTROL NOW RESTS WITH THE END USER......
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Old 04-19-2017, 05:22 PM
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I just picked up a new 617 about a month ago. Totally happy with mine. Action smoothed up like any S&W, functions properly, and cuts one hole at 25 yards with CCI Mini Mags. I did pass one up when the barrel was a bit more canted than what I would accept for an over the counter purchase.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:52 PM
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As stated i was going to post when I received my 617 back. S&W replaced all needed parts, cylinder, firing pin and Spring. I took it today and so far all is well. It took about 5-6 weeks for the repair. so far so good.


Glad to hear, I have a 4" 617... never had a problem with it. Try some Eley ammo just for the heck of it. I know yours is working well now, but you may really end up liking the Eley.
I've had a $1500 PC Stealth Hunter .44 that had to go back because the front sight almost fell off within 100 rounds. Last December I had to send back my daughters 642 because they didn't put the correct side plate on and the finish was flaking off. I have to call them again to get my 637 sent back in because it looks like they over tightened the barrel too much and it is leaning to the clockwise direction when looking at it barrel end and shoots to the right. Sucks, but I do know that when there is a problem, they take care of it and send it back in A-one shape. Sad that it takes that when it should be done correctly in the first place. Either way, the 617 is a great gun to shoot. 10 rounds in a 4". Cant beat it.
By the way, the daughters was a week old and mine is about 6 months old. **** happens

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