Hey everyone!

New to the forum. New to revolvers. New to the finish on the 642. I have the performance center version. Just picked it up. Shoots smooth, accurate and it's purty. Here it is after its first bunch of rounds through it.

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Now I need to know what products you guys recommend to clean and keep it in tip top shape. Thanks in advance.

First off, welcome to the forum, and congratulations on your 642!

I use Hoppe's Elite on my alloy frame S&Ws. Other solvents can ruin the clear coat.

Yes, welcome to the Forum. Always great to have new shooters who like J-frames! I bought the very same gun 3 weeks ago. Have cleaned it 2x with Hoppe's #9, the regular stuff, which I've used for decades. No problems with the finish, perhaps because I use relatively little solvent applied on patches, not allowing the gun to become soaking wet.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Welcome!

Ahhh, now yo have done it! Asking what is the best cleaner here is like asking what is the best Vintage Car at a car show - LOL!

Use products that have been around for a long time - crummy products usually are not around for too long! Use a product that will not harm any of the guns finish, grips, sights etc. Solvents are NOT all the same base and anything with Ammonia will clean better but will be more aggressive - see the manufacturers cleaning instructions on what NOT to use. Different firearms will sometimes require different cleaners.

Personally I use Rig #2 Oil which will NOT harm ANY firearms, grips, stocks, wood, polymers, etc. because it is sort of a mild cleaner, lubricant and rust preventer it will not clean quite as well as other more aggressive cleaners but since I clean all my guns after each and every Range session, they never really get that dirty.

I'd suggest you get the Brownell's brand Bronze Bore brushes, 100% cotton patches, Dewey Cleaning Rods, Brass tips, etc from Brownells. Their products are a HUGE step above the Big Box store brands sold in retail outlets. The Hoppes brand brushes and patches are stinko!

If you will be shooting Lead bullets, the Lewis Lead Remover tool from Brownell's is indispensable (caliber specific). Brownell's also sells the best screwdriver sets in the business (as far as I am concerned) and their "law enforcement style handle" is the way to go.

After reading all the reco;s you might get here, you will be more confused than ever - HA! Seriously though, a product that has been around for a numbe of years is what I;d stick with. Personally I'd stay away from products claiming miracle results, that need a whole regiment of instructions and procedures to use, and are super expensive.

The Rig #2, Rem Oil, Break Free, Ballistol, are all good and reliable. AGAIN - remembers........ the easier they clean the more aggressive they are. Also stay away from abrasive cleaners! Enjoy!

I'm in chief38's camp, except I use MC#7 cut with 40% Kroil for a solvent and Triflon oil. My 642 is from the early 2000's. All the finish is still on the gun and I carry it most days when I leave the hose.

Another plug for Brownell's brushes and patches. I used to cut my own flannel patches until I tried Brownell's. I keep six sizes in my cleaning kit with an assortment of jags and buy my brushes in bulk. No more "it almost fits" for me. I do prefer carbon fiber rods from Caldwell.

Welcome! Good information above. No harsh abrasives on the finish but particularly on the frame, the anodizing/clear coat has a reputation of being somewhat fragile. I would recommend a nice coat of wax to preserve the exterior; I use Renaissance brand but Johnson's Paste Wax reportedly works just as well. Enjoy and be safe!

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Welcome to the Neighborhood and congratulations!

After you find your favorite best cleaner for the barrel etc, get a Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and polishing Cloth for the cylinder face. It will make a blackened cylinder face look new. That is the only place I use it on an Airweight.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the feedback. I had heard of people talking about the finish being finicky on the 642 for some people and figured it might have some to do with the products some people are using.

Can any of you experienced owners lay out a step by step method? As far as order to do things? For instance I had never heard of waxing a gun before...I have much to learn.

Cleaning my 642?

Ballistol...

Edmo

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TRUTH: Don't delete my posts!

I use Break Free CLP for cleaning and Gun Butter for lube. I've been using Break Free since the 90s. The only reason I use Gun Butter is that I bought a bottle to try out some years ago, it worked for me, and I still have some on hand. Though I have been meaning to try Lubriplate, maybe when I finish my bottle of Gun Butter.

As far as actual cleaning methods, there are going to be lots of opinions on the best approach. I'll share what I do. I'm not saying mine is the best, but it works for me.

First thing I do is make sure the gun is unloaded.

Then I put some CLP on a patch and run it through the bore. I repeat with the chambers. I let that sit and soak for a few minutes while I take a nylon brush and clean out the nooks and crannies (around the forcing cone, breech face, under the extractor star, cylinder stop notches, etc.). I also use CLP and a bronze "toothbrush" to clean the cylinder face.

I put some CLP on a bronze brush and run it through the bore and chambers, using a .38 caliber brush for the bore and a .40 caliber brush for the chambers. I use a plastic guide to protect the muzzle and I wad up a rag through the cylinder window to protect the breech face.

I run another wet patch through the bore and chambers, followed by dry patches until they come out reasonably clean (I rarely shoot more than 75 rounds per range session, so it doesn't get too dirty).

Then I lube. I use a needle applicator, which is really nice to have. I apply one drop to the following areas: at the front of the cylinder where the yoke enters, followed by rotating the cylinder; at the front of the extractor rod where it meets the under-barrel lug, where the yoke enters the frame, and on the rear of the extractor rod that fits in the frame (I can never remember the name of that part), followed by opening and closing the cylinder a few times; and one drop on either side of the trigger where it meets the frame while the gun is upside down, followed by a few cycles of the trigger (still upside down, with the muzzle pointing in a safe direction).

I finish by putting a drop of CLP on a patch and wiping down the steel parts of the gun, followed by a wipe down with a dry rag.

My gun is now clean and ready. I do this about every 1-2 months or after every range session, whichever comes first.

Thanks so much for the detail. That helps!