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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 04-01-2017, 08:59 PM
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My new S&W 617 -6 has noticeable machine marks on the forcing cone.Is this acceptable? I fired it 200 times without issues.

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My 629-4 5" classic. Smooth forcing cone.

My lady Smith purchased couple years ago is little rough but not as bad.

My Ruger Redhawk 44 mag 5.5" also smooth.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:00 PM
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Default Is this acceptable?

My new S&W 617 -6 has noticeable very rough machine marks on the forcing cone.Is this acceptable? I fired it 200 times without issues.

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My 629-4 5" classic. Smooth forcing cone.

My lady Smith purchased couple years ago is little rough but not as bad.

My Ruger Redhawk 44 mag 5.5" also smooth.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:03 PM
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About as good as it's going to get. Shouldn't affect accuracy.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:13 PM
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It looks more like lead deposits to me. Try a lead removal cloth and see if it is lead. You might be surprised.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdavis View Post
It looks more like lead deposits to me. Try a lead removal cloth and see if it is lead. You might be surprised.
It's very rough machining and not as smooth as my other revolvers forcing cones.It feels like a metal or wood file.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:23 PM
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It doesn't appear much different from my 617-6. It doesn't appear to have any adverse effect on accuracy or function, just not as smooth as some of my other S & W's.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paragain View Post
About as good as it's going to get from the 'new' S&W. Shouldn't affect accuracy.
Fixed it for you.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by D Brown View Post
It doesn't appear much different from my 617-6. It doesn't appear to have any adverse effect on accuracy or function, just not as smooth as some of my other S & W's.
Function and accuracy are fine.It has one of best triggers .I own total of 8 revolvers and this the only one with this kind of machine marks.That's what got me concerned.
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Old 04-01-2017, 09:53 PM
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Much rougher than my 617 but if function and accuracy are good then maybe not worry over it. However seems like lead deposits will be harder to scrape off.
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:12 PM
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The area you have pictured does look ugly, but I would not call that the forcing cone. The forcing cone is inside the barrel. The rearmost part of the inside of the barrel is cut in a slightly conical shape to help the bullet transfer from the cylinder to the barrel. The forcing cone is an important functional part of a revolver, and it should be quite smooth.

The area you have pictured is the back of the barrel. It is not really a functional area, and I agree with the other posters that it will not affect the revolver.
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lefty_jake View Post
The area you have pictured does look ugly, but I would not call that the forcing cone. The forcing cone is inside the barrel. The rearmost part of the inside of the barrel is cut in a slightly conical shape to help the bullet transfer from the cylinder to the barrel. The forcing cone is an important functional part of a revolver, and it should be quite smooth.

The area you have pictured is the back of the barrel. It is not really a functional area, and I agree with the other posters that it will not affect the revolver.
If I polish it will it cause problem?
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Old 04-01-2017, 10:52 PM
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If in doubt call their CS.
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Old 04-01-2017, 11:04 PM
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Recent Smiths require careful in person inspection before you buy or accept delivery.

Poor workmanship is relatively common.

I suspect that Smith will say it's within spec and, in truth, the defects are probably just cosmetic.

The defect will lower resale value to a buyer who inspects carefully before buying if it doesn't kill resail entirely to that discerning buyer.
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Old 04-01-2017, 11:28 PM
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Was that pic taken before or after the 200 rounds? .22 ammo is usually pretty dirty. It might just need a good cleaning.
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Old 04-01-2017, 11:41 PM
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Same question as the poster above. It's not clear to me if the cone as pictured has been cleaned.

OP, can you clarify?
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Old 04-01-2017, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pef View Post
Same question as the poster above. It's not clear to me if the cone as pictured has been cleaned.

OP, can you clarify?
The pic is after been cleaned.The face of the barrel feels like wood file.Very rough.Will it cause problem if I smooth and polish the face of the barrel?

Last edited by 44 mag; 04-01-2017 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 04-02-2017, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 44 mag View Post
Will it cause problem if I smooth and polish the face of the barrel?
Don't do it. That is not something you should be messing with.

If you think there's a problem, contact S&W for a professional evaluation and repair if needed.

Last edited by mod29; 04-02-2017 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 04-02-2017, 01:45 AM
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If there wasn't a problem in shooting, I would let it go. However, I understand how the looks of things can eat at a person. If the sight of it really bothers you, I see no problem with smoothing it out by hand with some fine or very fine grit paper -- but the whole idea is as you said to just "smooth and polish" -- I'd hate to open up the cylinder gap because it was a unsightly. Take care.

Last edited by Ashlander; 04-02-2017 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 04-02-2017, 03:43 AM
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Looks like lead/lube fouling to me. Maybe try some copper plated ammo next time, it doesn't gum up the forcing cone and cylinder face nearly as much as the straight lead ammo.
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Old 04-02-2017, 12:15 PM
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I would strongly advise not to modify the gun until you have shot it enough to determine if there are any mechanical or functional problems. This testing should include both single action and double action fire and more than one type of ammunition.

If there are any functional problems due to the roughness at the back of the barrel or any other issue, then the gun should be returned for warranty work. If you send it back for any warranty issue, you could also request that the back of the barrel be examined.

If you determine that there are no functional issues, then my first recommendation would be to leave the cosmetic issue alone. However, I would also understand if the cosmetic issue is unacceptable to you.

If you want to make a cosmetic improvement to the back of the barrel, then you need to be very careful not to create a functional problem while doing the work. It is important not to remove enough metal to widen the barrel to cylinder gap, and it is also important not to round off the corner at the entrance to the forcing cone. Taking too much metal in either of these areas could create new problems. On the other hand, very light polishing will not make much visual improvement on an area with machining marks. So making cosmetic improvements without causing damage requires a careful balance. I would recommend having someone experienced do the job.
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Old 04-02-2017, 01:03 PM
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I might be concerned that if I returned the revolver to S&W, that they would reface the back surface of the barrel, and still consider the new, larger, BC gap to be in tolerance. Gaps I have measured recently have been in the 6 to 8 thousands of an inch. I would not like to get the gun back at .010 inch, which I think is their limit, even if it looked better. Having a gunsmith remove the barrel, reface the rear, recut a new forcing cone, and setting the BC gap to .004 inches, would be costly, and someone that would go that far would not likely stop there.

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Old 04-02-2017, 10:22 PM
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Here's better pic after I re-cleaned it.
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Old 04-02-2017, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurac View Post
Looks like lead/lube fouling to me. Maybe try some copper plated ammo next time, it doesn't gum up the forcing cone and cylinder face nearly as much as the straight lead ammo.
here's a better pic after I re-cleaned it.


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Old 04-02-2017, 10:33 PM
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You're doing what I always do; overthink stuff.

If it shoots fine, then I'd say don't worry about it.
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Old 04-02-2017, 10:35 PM
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Now I can see it, looks like some galling occurred when the breech end of the barrel was cut, this happens when no or improper cutting oil is used, I suppose a really dull cutter can cause it as well.
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Old 04-02-2017, 10:39 PM
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It's fine. It won't be perfect after you shoot it. Relax . . .
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Old 04-06-2017, 07:09 PM
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RMA issued by S&W.
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Old 04-07-2017, 01:39 PM
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Gosh, reminds me of the finish of my 1st ever lathe part back in tech school.

It would bother me too.

Personally, I would have taken a Gesswein® Finishing Stone to smooth it out. And been very cautious to keep the stone square on the barrel face when I did. But that's the advantage of having a tool shop in the building.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:51 AM
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The gun is back from S&W.tech notes : cut forcing cone, back of barrel repaired, test fired.
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:01 AM
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unless it was binding or spitting lead, that would not bother me, especially if it was shooting well.
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Old 05-20-2017, 10:13 AM
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If it is spitting lead, has excessive B/C Gap, or binds then you have a problem. If NOT, you are good to go. Cosmetics have NOT been their strong point lately.
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Old 05-23-2017, 05:31 PM
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I think you did the right thing by sending that revolver back. There's no way I would have accepted that in a newly manufactured gun. Smith & Wesson needs to know that they need to take quality control more seriously. The only way that's going to happen is if they get enough sloppy workmanship returned for rework, and it starts to hit their bottom line.

Just curious, do you have a way to measure the barrel/cylinder gap?

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Old 05-23-2017, 08:20 PM
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I do not have a way to measure.Here's some pics,looks ok to me.



Comparison with another revolver

My other revolvers gap



Last edited by 44 mag; 05-23-2017 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 44 mag View Post
My new S&W 617 -6 has noticeable machine marks on the forcing cone.Is this acceptable? I fired it 200 times without issues.
The flat part, of the end of the bbl, if it is rough, does not matter, if the firearm, does not bind.
No part of the bullet, touches it.

The 'forcing' cone, is the part, inside, the objectionable, looking, part.

Perhaps try some, 1,000 grit, wet or dry paper, with a bit of oil on it, and with a very, FLAT, backer, carefully, smooth it.

Would be more concerned about the gap, between the Cyl and the End of the bbl.
Measure, with gun un loaded, Pull back on cyl, and see what, gauge you can slide in.
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:40 PM
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Shoot it and relax.
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Old 05-23-2017, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 44 mag View Post
I do not have a way to measure.Here's some pics,looks ok to me.]
Photos look Great !

Measuring Cyl Gap, go to a, auto-mart, mart-mart, auto dept, harbor freight, fleet farm etc. The Automotive dept.

Spend from 3.00 - 5.00 for a, 'feeler gauge'.
Look for one that goes from, .002 to .014
Smaller you can get, but will never need.
Larger you can get, but will seldom need.

Hold the Unloaded cylinder back, with gun un-cocked.

Then see what you can slide in, between the front of the Cyl, and the Breach of the bbl.

.006 is the Norm.
.004 is Optimum.
.002, really fine accuracy work.
(Especially in a S/A only)
.008, absolute, reliability in a defense firearm.
.010 +, Start looking for Shims.

Seems like, that very simple measurement, along with, timing, and Cyl Misalignment, has gone by the wayside.

With, 'some', manufactures, 'using', that lack of knowledge/expectation, and, 'telling' you.
Something else is 'just', OK....

I Relate it to:
Some people say, it is, OK, to BRING IN, someone of a religion, who want's to KILL YOU, because you do not believe in their Religion.
And more and more people, thinks that is Just, OK.

So shooting a single projectile, in a revolver, with a 'gap', powered by rapidly expanding gasses, has NOT changed in the last 100 +++ years.
But Now, all of a sudden, the optimum Cylinder gap, (Which is TWICE AS MUCH), is OK ??????
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