Revolver cleaning

ERO1052 · #1 04-20-2017, 03:06 PM

I have a 66-8 which I enjoy immensely. I shoot both 38 specials, lead round nose and semi jacketed RN 357's.

I've been getting a buildup on the frame, (lead?) around the forcing cone. I'm looking for ways to clean this off.

I clean after each outing and want to keep the gun pristine. I'm not interested in using an abrasive if at all possible.

Thanks in advance

Eric

ridgewalker · #2 04-20-2017, 03:19 PM

The only guns I get much lead buildup around the forcing cone are my 22 revolvers. In other calibers I shoot mostly plated or jacketed bullets. So to clean the lead off the frame on the 22's I use a scraper tool I made by hammering flat the end of a 556 shell. Scrapes the lead right off and can't harm my Stainless Steel revolvers. Also I suggest shooting different bullets that won't lead your gun.

jbtrucker · #3 04-20-2017, 03:40 PM

It should be carbon . Soak a little Hoppes 9, Bronze Brush and cleaning patch. Some use a lead away wipe but forgot the name

ERO1052 · #4 04-20-2017, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ridgewalker

The only guns I get much lead buildup around the forcing cone are my 22 revolvers. In other calibers I shoot mostly plated or jacketed bullets. So to clean the lead off the frame on the 22's I use a scraper tool I made by hammering flat the end of a 556 shell. Scrapes the lead right off and can't harm my Stainless Steel revolvers. Also I suggest shooting different bullets that won't lead your gun.

Thanks. I'm looking at FMJ 38's. I'm not sure the 357 JSP's are the cause

Kingspoke · #5 04-20-2017, 05:06 PM

I like the Birchwood Casey lead removing & polishing cloths. They will quickly & completely remove cylinder burn rings, etc. I don't know whether it works on blued guns, and I probably wouldn't use on titanium (coated) cylinders.

They also make a bore scrubber spray, etc.

arjay · #6 04-20-2017, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingspoke

I like the Birchwood Casey lead removing & polishing cloths. They will quickly & completely remove cylinder burn rings, etc. I don't know whether it works on blued guns, and I probably wouldn't use on titanium (coated) cylinders.

They also make a bore scrubber spray, etc.

Fine on SS and nickel,but they will take blue off.

bigwheelzip · #7 04-20-2017, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingspoke

I like the Birchwood Casey lead removing & polishing cloths.

Another vote for these cloths.

MichiganScott · #8 04-20-2017, 05:44 PM

Another vote for using a flattened case neck. I also use a brass toothbrush. With the exception of J&B bore cleaning compound used very sparingly, I don't believe in abrasives on any guns.

ERO1052 · #9 04-20-2017, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kingspoke

I like the Birchwood Casey lead removing & polishing cloths. They will quickly & completely remove cylinder burn rings, etc. I don't know whether it works on blued guns, and I probably wouldn't use on titanium (coated) cylinders.

They also make a bore scrubber spray, etc.

Thank you. I'll look into that. It's stainless steel so no issues

Mikeinkaty · #10 04-20-2017, 09:42 PM

I use Remington 40-X bore cleaner/lead remover. It beats everything else I've tried. Use a brass toothbrush and the 40-X around the forcing cone and the front of the cylinder. I put the 40-X on and let it soak for 2 or 3 minutes.

diegobxr · #11 04-21-2017, 09:33 AM

Are you sure it's lead accumulating on the forcing cone?

On my revolvers that area gets mostly only powder and primer residue, and it goes off with a little solvent (I use M-Pro 7 cleaner) and a simple toothbrush. Not much effort involved.

PS: BTW, If you don't know it already, a neat trick to take the burn rings from the front of the cylinder on a SS revolver, is using metal polish (Brasso, Mother's Mag Polish, whatever). Just polish with a rag and it looks like new immediately. Gun solvents do little for those nasty burn rings.

dmar · #12 04-21-2017, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERO1052

Thank you. I'll look into that. It's stainless steel so no issues

Yes, the lead-removing cloths work great on removing carbon and lead. I've even cut a patch out of the cloth and used it to remove lead deposits in the bore; works great. But again, do NOT use on blue...

Kingspoke · #13 04-21-2017, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arjay

Fine on SS and nickel,but they will take blue off.

Good to know, thanks!

catadjuster · #14 04-21-2017, 11:43 AM

I don't worry too much about the burn rings on the front of the cylinder on a day to day basis. I shoot between 200 and 400 rounds per week through my .357 - all .38 special. But I still want to be able to load .357 in the gun and I find that after a couple of weeks, I can't get .357 in there without undue pressure being applied to the base of the cartridge - which tells me that there is excess constriction on the front of the cartridge which could cause excess pressure when it gets fired.

My solution is to spray the chambers down with Ballistol and let it soak for 20 or 30 minutes. I then go back with a brass brush on a short rod in my electric drill and run it back and forth a few times. Since brass is so much softer than steel, I don't anticipate a problem (though I can't prove it won't be a problem over a long enough period of time - give running water enough time and it will erase a boulder). This method does allow me to then drop a moon clip of .357 into the chambers with no restriction, so I am happy.