It arrived at the FFL today and everything seems to be good (i.e. functional). There is a small file mark on the trigger guard , but I can smooth that out. The DA trigger is heavy as heck, hopefully it'll lighten with use. The forcing cone isn't as cleanly machined as I would expect but when I shoot it I'll see if it functions. I expect it will.

I did't think I'd like the satin finish, since the polished stainless Smiths are such works of art, but I really love the tactile texture of it. Smooth! And the grip feels perfect in my hand, like I'm caressing a woman's- Ok, I'll stop there.

It's a little more svelte than my 3" GP100, but it's nearly identical in size to my SP101 except for the cylinder diameter and frame height. 6 rounds vs. 5. On paper it's in between both, so maybe this is my Goldilocks revolver.



GP100 and 66-8:


Really?


Does this need some TLC?:


SP101 and 66-8:

Comfortable looking grips on both of your beauty's..

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NRA Benefactor

No picture of the lock?

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LIVE FROM THE DAWGHOUSE

I bought mine a couple weeks ago. Already the trigger is smoothing out with use (and dry firing). Mine had no odd nicks or dings and my forcing cone looks a lot better under magnification than yours; the flat ring facing the cylinder is uniform all the way around.

So far I have been very happy.

I put 100 rounds of Aguila .38 SP through it today, no issues. The cylinder got a little sticky (hard to open) with all the soot, but the rounds all slid cleanly out upon ejection. This seems to happen to all my revolvers. Nothing a good cleaning doesn't fix.

The dim lighting in the indoor range, and the red front sight blending in with the red bullseye made aiming a challenge. So did my bifocal shooting glasses. I expect outdoors it'll be easier to aim. The target is at various yards from 5 to 20, both DA and SA. The sights seem to be right on, out of the box.

I think the trigger is loosening up a little, another hundred rounds should break it in.



Miss Velvet is a dirty girl:


For those with a lock fetish:

Used or factory new? If it's from the factory, I'd contact them and send pictures. That forcing cone is awful darn rough from the looks of it...

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Even older, even crankier....

Telecaster: How's the cylinder gap? The like your photos. What struck me, however, was not dirty the gun got after just 100 rounds of factory ammo. I'm thinking the face of the barrel is not uniform or just too far from the cylinder and is letting a lot of gas blow back.

BTW, whether or not your gun needs a little factory help, I think this new design (especially the new lock-up at the yoke) is superb. I think this model is going to be a classic someday.

It's brand new. I don't have any feeler gauges, but the gap looks totally consistent as the cylinder rotates. It's thinner than a business card, thicker than a piece of paper.

The gap on my 67-6 is thinner than a piece of paper, and the forcing cone is also a little rough around the inside of the rim, but not nearly as much as the 66. The gap on my Rugers is about the same as the 67-6.

Congratulations! I want one!

My neighbor bought the Ruger 3" bbl. Built like a tank, but the cylinder release is backwards from the Smith's I have had for so many years. I want a model 65, or if the rear sight is screwed on something to make it fixed.

I am NOT a perfectionist and don't expect everything to be totally perfect on a new gun. Unless, you pay huge bucks some minor stuff is going to go out the door. BUT, that forcing cone is ugly and possibly it is the photo angle but looks like shallow and uneven. Plus, look like it got wacked a couple times. I think I would sent that back and say "Do better than that".

I have the tools to fix that myself, but, think I would still send it back.

But it does appear that it does shot pretty well.

It looks like the forcing cone is hand forged!
Mine was still spitting something, so I sent it back.
I got a shipping label within an hour of sending an email.

Best,
Rick

Riverrat38 makes a good point in jest. The final facing on the forcing cone looks non-existent. There's a video on line that shows a S&W worker dressing the face of the forcing cone with a huge mechanical file while the frame is held in a vice. On my new 66-8 I can see very very fine machine marks from such a mechanical file -- very tiny lines (like grain lines) going perfectly straight left to right across the face. The pictures of the forcing cone in this thread look as if that step was skipped.

Agreed with Ashlander. The nick in the trigger guard would drive me batty on a brand-new gun, but the forcing cone doesn't look finished. Since you've had a chance to shoot and enjoy it at least once, I'd clean it up and send it back. They'll make it right... I've sent a couple back myself, and have always been extremely pleased with any adjustments or repairs S&W has made.

Edit: I also have the 2.75" 66, and just checked my forcing cone. It's surface is very smooth.

I'm waiting to hear back from customer service. I'm also surprised the muzzle crown doesn't have the nice smoothly rounded finish piece. I can't see how it would attach, but my 4" 67 has one.

S&W is on what I consider "Gen2" two piece barrels. The new ones don't show as two piece from the side like the Model 620's, and others, do. They look more like a recessed crown design. I like!

Best,
Rick

I wish S&W would hurry up and send the 66-8 2 3/4" to DOJ for testing and approval to get on the (BS) list of approved handguns. The 4 1/4" is on the list already, but to not the 2 3/4" version. If all else fails, I might have to get the 4 1/4" and send it to S&W for a barrel change.

I've got my old duty 66-2 4" and a 66-2 3". I try to avoid shooting them with many magnum loads, particularly 125 gr. I'd like the 66-8 for the improved metallurgy and design so I can shoot more magnums without having to carry my L or N frames.

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Dave Frost

Snowman: The new 2.75" 66-8 has a different style detent lock-up on the yoke than the 4" 66-8 that was released a couple years ago (the ball detent was visible on the 4" guns, while it is tucked away with the new 2.75" model). I presume all the new guns will have the new style lock-up, but make sure before you go that route.

That forcing cone is pathetic. No way the tolerances on that gun are right after only 100 rounds....and I am truly an optimist!

Gratz on owning such great guns.

That nick on the trigger is nothing but that forcing cone has to be fixed.

I've shot some dirty ammo in my time but have never seen a cylinder so dirty after just two boxes.

She's on her way to Massachusetts now, the Fedex label arrived today. I mentioned the forcing cone, cylinder gap, gouge on the trigger guard, and that the trigger spring seemed unusually heavy.

I have a Wolff reduced power spring on the way, but I'll see what S&W does first.

Yeah I love mine but sent it back to do a better forcing cone and take some burrs of the crown. It shot ok, just didn't enjoy bleeding with the heavier 357 loads from my face and ear.

Another victim of M66 2.75 lust here.
Only had time to put 60 rounds down range through it but these are my impressions so far:
Trigger: DA > 12 lbs on trigger gage, SA ~ 5lbs with creep (not what I expect from S&W), will install Wilson reduce power spring kit & extended length firing pin as soon as they arrive from Brownells
Weight: it feels about as heavy as my 4.25" M66-8, I guess the two piece barrel isn't very heavy per inch
Overall quality: the forcing cone shows more machine marks than any S&W revolver I have but no problem with lead shaving
Barrel - Cylinder gap of between 5 & 6 mils
No gas ring on the cylinder so I expect to be cleaning the yoke pretty regularly (same as my 4.25 " M66-8).
I got this for summer carry and I expect that it will be fine in that role.
Now for the fun part of working up loads for the little guy

"Weight: it feels about as heavy as my 4.25" M66-8, I guess the two piece barrel isn't very heavy per inch"


According to the S&W website, the M66-8 4.25 inch version weights 36.9 oz and the 2.75 inch one is 33.5 oz. The difference is 3.4 oz or about 10% more for the longer barrel. Or, 2.27 oz per inch.

Best,
Rick

Just got an email from CS that said they had to replace the "serialized component" of my firearm. No explanation of why, unless it was for the ding on the trigger guard. If that's what it was, then that's one heck of a warranty coverage! So it'll have to be transferred to my local FFL. I should get it this week, then! I eagerly anticipate more detail to be forethcoming...

That forcing cone is an immediate "Get it back to S&W!"
It is not acceptable & it'd cause problems with magnums down the road.

I would not have even bothered firing it.
It is completely WRONG!

There seems to be a cone issue in manufacture on these.
Several reports of spitting & shallow machining.

I laid out what I found with the one here in another thread.

This is something that needs watching & holding S&W accountable for.
Denis

And, a replacement should not have to go to an FFL.
They should be able to ship to your door, unless your state prohibits.
Denis

From what he posted, it sounds like they needed to change the frame (serialized component). Since it needs a new serialized component, I'm almost positive that it has to be shipped to an FFL since it is in effect a "new" gun with a different serial number.

No.
A REPLACEMENT for a defective gun can be shipped directly to the owner, different serial included, per ATF regs.

No FFL involvement required.
Denis

"The serialized component of your Revolver has been replaced and will need to be transferred to a Licensed Federal Firearms Dealer. Please provide the name, phone number and email address of a Federal Dealer at your earliest convenience.

Once the FFL has been received please allow 1-2 weeks for processing and shipping."

My brain missed the 1-2 weeks processing part, that's ridiculous.

I'm glad the OP took the forums advice and sent it back in. I would have just for the nick in the trigger guard, a NIB gun from the factory shouldn't have gouges.

The really big deal though is that forcing cone above. I can't believe they would sell a firearm with forcing cone looking like that. That cone looks like it has shot 100s of rounds of magnums with the cylinder being out of alignment. It looks like what an old worn shooter with cone erosion exhibits.

If S&W is requiring the FFL, it's S&W requiring it.
Ruger has a policy of doing the same, but that's ONLY an internal policy.

Many of us have gotten replacements sent to our front door by other makers.

ATF allows it.
In S&W requiring an FFL, it just creates additional time & expense for you to pick up the second gun.
Denis

^^ Yes, but I'll just be happy to have it back and hopefully in "perfect" condition. If there's a chance no one is home when FedEx shows up, like if we go out of town for a few days, it'll be easier to let it sit at the FFL. I don't mind.

This must be a change in policy, because they replaced the frame on my 1911 Pro and it came to my house. (new serial number, etc)
S&W may be IN a horrible state for guns, but they SERVE all 50 states.

The condition of that revolver is a shame, but I'm happy that S&W is doing right by you.

I have had issues with S&W and Ruger firearms but both companies stepped up, with only lost shipping time for me. Taurus, not such a good experience.

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Loving retirement!

It's been a week, nothing yet!

I just got the call!

Right on! You picking it up today? Nice pics like you took before please. I'm excited for you buddy!

It came in a plain cardboard box, with a green fabric pouch and their infamous paper. The forcing cone is 1000x better, looks about like my 67-6. They appear to have put quite a few rounds through it, and cleaned it. There's a turn line. I expect them to test it thoroughly, so that's ok with me.

There are some dings on the finish again, but no gouges. I think this satin finish is a ****** idea, it scratches too easily. The dings are almost invisible, but it's a NEW GUN and shouldn't have any wear or handling marks. The mark on the cylinder is on every flute. There's no part of the mechanism that touches here so I don't know where that would have come from.

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Mine arrived today. Forcing cone was fixed and crown refined. Shot it after picking up from Fed Ex. Shoots lights out now. Several different loads at 7 to 10 yards standing with my bifocals. My 357 carry load was on the x. Love this revolver.

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That's from normal blow back deflected onto the gun from the screw hole in the back strap above the cylinder. It cleans off.

Mine had the same troubles. I was able to take care of them myself.

Glad you guys got your's fixed okay too.

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66 Combat Magnum - forcing cone, rechamfered
-new

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66 Combat Magnum - muzzle recrowned/chamfered


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Waiting for the break of day

I like the crown on yours!

Well, it shoots nice. It doesn't spit at me, and didn't get the burn marks on the right side like the original did. The b/c gap seems noticeably smaller too. It's a keeper.

I fired 50 rounds of .38 and about 5 or 6 rounds of Tula .357 because that was the only .357 I had with me at the time. None of my revolvers like the steel case ****, the cases stick and sometimes bind up the cylinder. This M66 is no exception. It seems to run ok in my Rossi lever gun though.

I swapped grips with my 66-2 and lightened the spring on both by one turn. Hard to choose which grip looks better, I know I love the feel of the factory combat grip.



Edit: the hammer springs were set too light for reliable primer ignition so I tightened them back up.

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You might try installing a lighter rebound slide spring from someone like Wolff. That will lighten up both single and double action trigger pull (mostly double action, but does lighten single action a tad) without affecting the hitting power of the mainspring on the primer. That way you can get a lighter trigger without compromising primer ignition by backing off the strain screw. The Wolff rebound springs are pretty inexpensive.

Agree. A 15 lb or 14 lb rebound spring makes a noticeable difference on the trigger pull.

I typically use a 14# Wolff rebound spring & shorten it for fine tuning. I took 1/2 coil off of this one, polished some contact points & got it down to a 3# SA trigger. (The rebound spring has everything to do with the SA pull as can be verified when you remove everything (hammer & mainspring) but the trigger & rebound slide, and measure the trigger pull to see that's what provides all the weight.)

Finally got mine to the range & got it dirty. Shot great with these first loads. Forgot to put the Pachmyar Diamond Pros on I bought for it but the factory grips felt fine.

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66 Combat Magnum target (-01a)
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Waiting for the break of day

I just got my new 66 the other day, haven't had time to shoot it yet, but I do know Aguila ammo shoots dirty, try a better quality brand and see if you get the same results, your forcing cone does look pretty rough, invest and a set of feeler guages, they come in handy for things like this, my Dan Wesson is .002 on cylinder gap, and is the most accurate 44 mag I own, S&W usually run between .006 and .008, the closer tollerances usually give better results for acuracy, but can also foul faster, I still have to give my 66 a going through, but my first look see was a thumbs up...

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I just took a better look at my new 66, the muzzle could use a recrowning and chamfering, the forcing cone is fine, and the cylinder to forcing cone gap is .008, which is common on Smith and Wesson revolvers, pretty much the gap you want on a fighting gun, with less chance of cylinder binding, I'm going to have my gun gone through, but all and all it's a fine gun and I'm happy...the things I'll have done will just make it a little better...