Need some advice on removing the sideplate of my beloved N-frame 4-inch.
I near a rattle in there and think I should check it out.

how does one gently, safely, with baby love and care pop off that sideplate? Is there a "secret trick?"

I've had sideplates off before, but this one is "sticky."

Gun shoots great! Rattle makes me worry.

Not a loud rattle, but I can hear something. Maybe this is normal.

My 6-incher doesn't seem to make a discernible noise.

Probably just the hammer block, which I believe has a teeny bit of wiggle room. Mine does it. I believe all of them now do. Very small faint rattle that would seem to be coming from the hammer area. At first I thought it might be something with the lock and flag, but was instructed otherwise. But if you're really concerned about it I guess you could have it checked out. Also, I am no gunsmith.

Agreed with Harry, I bet it's the hammer block. It does have the ability to have some motion as it rests on a pin with an oblong slot that allows movement.

If you must take the side plate off, the best method I've found is that once the grips and sideplate screws are removed (use masking tape around the screws so you don't go Rambo and accidentally scratch up your side plate!), use the rubber or wooden handle of a screwdriver to tap the side/lower part of the grip frame. This tapping will vibrate the side plate off. Don't pound on it, just give it half a dozen or so smart taps, and you'll hear and see the side plate start to rattle off.

If it's not sticky or malfunctioning, I would leave the side plate on, so as not to risk damaging the gun, especially if you are not familiar with how to do it. It's not difficult, but you have to be careful. My bet is also the hammer block - normal sound.

Also remove the cylinder, and lay the frame on a non marring, flat surface prior to tapping the grip frame area. DONT try to pry the side plate off, it will damage the gun.

Larry

Hopper described the correct way to pop the side plate. Be careful, sometime even a light tapping will cause the plate to literally pop off and it could fall on a concrete floor or the like. So, be sure you're over your bench or table with a rag or something for the plate to land on if it does POP off. What ever you do, don't try to pry it off in any shape or manner. Also, a good cleaning around the frame and the inside edges of the plate may eliminate some of the stickiness. In a my years of shooting and working on Smith revolvers, I can't remember the hammer block causing an audible rattle if it's installed correctly. Then again, it is the only part that's just set in the lock works.

Someone else opined that it could be the trigger stop, which If I understood correctly is a design unique to the newer N frames?? Again, I'm no gunsmith but understood the explanations behind either as perfectly plausible. Either way, it seems common at least among newer N frames, the function of mine is flawless, so I just don't worry about it at all. It's barely audible anyway.

I was at a S&W factory clinic a few years back and two S&W factory gunsmiths were working on customers guns for a $20 donation to the NRA. I watched them while I was inline waiting for them to look at my Model 28 which was getting light primer hits. When I handed it to them the gunsmith disassembled it and pried off the sideplate with a screwdriver. I had watched him do this on earlier guns as well. He told me that's the way they did it at the factory and as long as you were reasonably gentle no harm would be done. Anyway that's the way they do it. I have removed countless sideplates from Smiths and other revolvers as well with no ill effects!
Jim

The rattle is normal. But, you can take off the side plate as described -- and if you've never done it before, your odds are about 99% that your gun won't be normal any more when you get it back together! ;-)

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Pisgah

Hahaha! This is why I never took mine off nor have any plans in the immediate future to do so. Not 'fixing' anything that ain't broke. As my pappy counciled me.

Oh gosh I sincerely hope not that they pry the sideplate off with a screwdriver, that makes me cringe!

If you feel you need to remove it, make sure you use the proper screwdriver on the side plate screws and label them for position of where they came out. If so inclined to protect your gun from potential scratches from the screwdriver apply some electrical tape near the screw holes.

Once you have removed the three screws, lay out a large towel on a workbench. With the plate facing down to the towel take a nylon or hard rubber small mallet and tap tap and possible lightly whack the the handle frame. The plate will pop off and out will also fall the hammer block which most likely is the rattle you hear. From this point you can set the side plate back on carefully while leaving the hammer block out and check for your 'rattle'. Do NOT leave the hammer block out when properly reassembling the gun! You will see a channel in the sideplate that the hammer block rides in, when putting it back in it is pushed up toward the hammer pin before putting on the sideplate.

Also remember with your front screw out the cylinder can be removed comepletely so be careful when handling the gun if you open the cylinder don't let it slide out and fall!!

It's like getting to look inside your watch
If by chance a thin pin comes out on the towel that could be the trigger stop mentioned but that should be captive within the trigger return spring housing.
Hope this helps
Karl

HA! I've taken off sideplates, as noted in the OP. This one was sticky but I finally got out a ball peen and a big punch and....

Nah, I just gave the grip frame a good rap after removing the cylinder (and a big of spray Hoppe's) and it finally popped off.
Sure as hell, as many of you have sagely pointed out, it was the hammer block. This one has a bit more leeway than I'm used to, but I gave everything a good cleaning and it's all back together now, and ready to play anew!
It has probably rattled since the day I bought it 2 years ago, and I just didn't notice it. Perhaps my hearing is coming back! It's a MIRACLE!!! Lawdy Lawdy!

I had a bit of trouble with the zero over at the Elmer Keith shoot outside of Spokane earlier this month, but this morning I did a bit of shooting, clicked the rear sight over one click, and started dusting chunks of orange clay targets at 25 yards. I'm thinking this baby is all better now.

Many thanks to all who replied! Once again, I am grateful to this forum.

From now on I don't believe a thing any of the S&W critics say.

Prying a side plate off is akin to running crystal goblets through the dishwasher. Possible it will be ok but the probability is too high for something to go wrong. I worked for a Master Gunsmith that was a true master on Smith and Wesson revolver. He never pried any side plate. He sometimes used a release agent overnight to make the process as simple as possible. He used as little power as he could to get the job done.

This is a circa 1980 model, my famous .41 Magnum 4-inch I've written about here frequently. Heck of a sixgun, if I do say so myself.

I've found a particular fondness for a 210-grain Nosler JHP ahead of 19.9 or 20.0 grains of H110 and a magnum primer. It's not the beefiest .41 Magnum load, but it is definitely accurate.
In the attached image, it's got the Sunday BBQ grips from Eagle, the elk antler ones that Raj Singh had made for me.
Leather is from D&D GUNLEATHER.

Again, thanks so much to everyone who replied. Restored my faith in humanity (lotta you guys know what I do for a living, and it's been an interesting 10 days since Alexandria). This morning's range trek was, uh, Therapy!

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The sideplate is suppose to be on there tight even without the screws. If it didn't make a noise before and does now then I understand your concern. The big issue is making sure you use the correct size screw driver and be careful not to bugger the slots or scratch the frame.


About three minuets into that he takes it all the way down.

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Smith..and Wesson..and myself.

I am not a gunsmith in any way and I don't care is S&W does it, but I would never pry anything off any of my guns.

If either the hammer block or the over-travel stop are "rattling" I would think the gun must be too dry and in need of a "little" lubricant. This can be done without removing the side plate, but is better done with the side plate off and just lubed where needed.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I just "shook" both of mine and listened.....they both have a little rattle .
I believe it's the part that falls out when you take the side plate off and then have a devil of a time getting back in place correctly because you don't know where it came from.....Just leave the side plate on if it still functions properly. Spray some RemOil in there and be happy.
Gary

lol. Yes, it's a very small, subtle, but 'predictable' sound (in a quiet place) when the revolver is turned this way and that. Far from being ....'alarming' like say.... one of those Japanese 'slot-machines' with all the little bearings cascading down pell mell. Whatever the hell those are called.

Put the gun in the freezer overnight. Then tap the grip frame to remove the side plate. It has worked for me multiple times.

Lubed and oiled, of course.

Every firearm owner has their own way of maintainence and if it works for you then keep doing it.

Just about 95% of every hand gun I've ever owned was previously owned and often full of surprizes.

My normal routine on a newly acquired gun is to remove the stocks and then soak the gun in K1 kerosene for a few days before disassembly.

Remove yoke screw
Remove yoke and cylinder assembly
Remove 2 remaining side plate screws
Remove side plate(tapping grip with plastic hammer)
Remove hammer block
Remove strain screw and mainspring
Remove hammer assembly
Remove rebound spring assembly
Remove trigger assembly
Remove cylinder stop and spring)
Remove bolt(careful not to lose spring and pin)

I do not normally take the cylinder hammer and trigger assemblies apart unless I find a part needs to be replaced.

I clean & lube all the parts with Rem Oil and M-Pro 7 synthetic grease before assembly.

While apart the bore is cleaned with Hoppe's Gel and use Lewis Lead remover if needed.

The cylinder holes are scrubbed with a bore brush until clean and shiny.

Under the extractor star is thoroughly cleaned.

Don't be too surprized at what previous owners had done to what was not visible on the outside and wasn't mention in the seller's ad.

I've encountered dry(no lube at all)internal parts,aftermarket parts(mostly light springs) and the use of red loctite and JB Weld on the screws

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

I was reading old posts last night about removing side plates, read a few threads claiming they come off a lot easier than they go back on.

I decided to leave mine on. All I really needed to do was get the crane off anyhow.

Looks like everything works!

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