Trigger out of the box seems less than desirable, not nearly as nice as I find my 627 PC. Anyway, about 300 rounds thru it since picking up on Sunday. Was dry firing it last night, after about 100 pulls, I noticed that the trigger sticks as I start the double action pull. Once past that initial hurdle, no issue. But it's "sticky." Gun is clean, trigger doesn't look like it dragging on frame. Any ideas on trouble shooting? Thanks in advance.

This may or may not be the problem, but my 627 pro would "drag" on DA trigger pull. When I took it to my smith, he told me that damn near every new S&W revolver he has seen as of date, the hand has been slightly out of timing with the CYL. It will spin the cyl, the cyl will lock to the next position, but the hand will keep trying to push against it making the trigger pull become more difficult.

The best way to see if this is your problem, open the cyl, manually move the thumb release to the "cyl lock" position, and make a DA trigger pull. If it is noticeably better, you have that issue. The hand is slightly out of timing. Once my smith worked on it, that problem went away completely. DA pull is now buttery smooth.

Check to make sure the strain screw didn't back-out from your initial shooting.

Provided you don't see anything external, & if you're comfortable removing the sideplate, it might be worth spraying out the innards with some cleaner/lube (Rem Oil). More than once I've found it dry or having debris/filings inside.

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Waiting for the break of day

Dry as a bone inside, will try that, thanks.

Were it mine, I'd completely disassemble, de-burr, clean, LIGHTLY lube and reassemble. I'd bet that would more than likely solve your problem. If you have never done this before, seek out assistance from a Pro. LGS.

Sounds like the same thing my 329 used go do. Had a hitch in its giddy up. I took the hammer block transfer bar out and mine smoothed out a good bit. Guess I could have done a little polishing inside and smoothed it out but I did mine the easy way. Or atleast it was the easy way for me. Hope that helps

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R/S
J.D.

Those are two different items that accomplish the same end - making the gun drop safe.

S&W uses a hammer block which prevents the FP from reaching the primer on hammer mounted FP guns, and reaching the FP on frame-mounted FP guns. The effect on trigger pull is negligible. The hammer block is lowered when the trigger is pulled.

Ruger uses a transfer bar which transfers the hammer's energy to the FP. The transfer bar raises and fills in the gap between the hammer and FP when the trigger is pulled.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

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NRA Benefactor Member

Is this a safe mod?? I've been reading for decades how this hammer block was devised to prevent the revolver from firing when dropped.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

Flush out, if you feel comfortable, remove the rebound slide and ever so slightly smooth the contact points, I prefer some form of dry lube, and reassemble. Literally every one of the newer Smiths I have bought have had tiny debris in the internals which is something I will never understand because the fix is so simple and straightforward.

When the hammer is down, the interface between the rebound slide and hammer will prevent the latter from moving forward enough to contact the firing pin (frame mounted pin) or from a hammer mounted firing pin to contact the primer.

Centennial model revolvers do not use the hammer block as the rebound slide by itself renders the gun drop safe.

The hammer block does protect the gun from firing when the hammer is cocked for single action use. In this case the hammer block prevents firing unless the trigger is pulled fully to the rear.

My vote is the hand rubbing as it moves up to engage the extractor star.

On my revolvers I also polish and slightly round the edge of the cylinder stop.This also reduces turn line gouging.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

Took it apart, cleaned it up, 14 lb rebound spring, worked over the inside with some 1500 grit paper and oiled. Slick shooter now, thanks for the help.