Hi Folks - I introduced myself a few months ago and have become a rapid convert to S&W double action revolvers. I received some very helpful advice from you great folks and with just a little work, I've shrunk my groups from 4-5 inches at 7 yards to 2-3 inches. Thanks so much to those of you who offered this great advice here.

Please see attached for my collection as of now. On the top is my newest acquisition, a 3-5-7 series 7 inch 686 plus. Of these three, this is the only one where I may actually keep the stock grips on there. Very comfortable. I think these are Altamont Ku stocks based on what I've seen in the pictures. I love the unfluted cylinder look. In the middle is a 4" 686 plus with a round butt Hogue rubber monogrip and I would argue these are the most comfortable grips I own. Since they are so inexpensive, why on earth doesn't S&W include these stocks as standard equipment? The rubber ones included with this were way too small for me. At the bottom is the 586 classic 4 inch with Hogue coco bolo grips. The target grips S&W included with this were beautiful, but checkered so aggressively that my finger was actually bleeding after shooting warm 38 specials...no way I'd shoot magnums with those grips. The Hogue wood grip solved that instantly!

I have a couple of questions I'd like to ask of the group:

- Are the new classic series revolvers subjected to performance center treatment? I ask because the action in my 586 classic seems much smoother and more positive.
- I've read online about how to remove the burn rings from the front of your cylinders. How often do you guys do this?

Thanks again for any suggestions or advice. This forum is such a wonderful resource.

Attached Images

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I feel the same about my 586 Classic, smoother than my 686 no dash that has several thousands of rounds thru it.

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I only have stainless revolvers and use the Birchwood Casey Lead Remover cloth every time I shoot, and for me that's usually 150 rounds of relatively clean 158gr magnums.

I enjoy cleaning my firearms after each use though. It's kind of a zen experience and allows a thorough inspection.

After I finish shooting at the range (while the cylinder is still warm), I use a brass cleaning brush to brush away the burn rings. It takes a couple seconds. If I let the gun sit for a few days, it's tougher to get it off. I have no explanation why.

When I clean a revolver I will clean the burn rings but I am not fussy about them. They show honest use, blue or stainless, so they don't bother me much.

I am uncertain about the PC and the Classic series. I have a Classic Model 27 and it's just another nice S&W trigger to me.

I don't do any cleaning of the burn rings beyond a toothbrush and Hoppes then wiped off with cotton patch. It gets the heavy deposits off but the actual burn rings remain.

Just don't see the point removing them completely when they will come back immediately the next time you shoot it. For someone who shoots his guns, that's a waste of time.

This is especially for blue guns because if you keep scubbing the burn rings off constantly, the blue is going to eventually go with it. Now if you have stainless, then a lead away cloth would make removal pretty easy if desired. I just still have no desire.

As far as factory trigger pulls go, almost each and every gun will vary. I don't think there is a ton of consistency with today's production standards.

Thanks ipac! Your thinking on the burn rings mirrors my own.