Updated. I appreciate all the acceptable prices and feel for how many folks want a part like this and all yalls input I've gotten. I will keep working on a cost effective bulletproof solution for y'all that I can do in the price range y'all want to be in. I'm going to have the Mods lock this thread so it doesn't keep bumping to the top. Anything further just PM email or call me. I appreciate it



Filler plates for beside the hammer came up in another thread.

Two things came up and here they are
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Have you ever considered making a version that extends into the gap where the lock's "flag" rises? A version that fills the lock hole and the flag slot would be outstanding. It would put me in the market for a current production 4" 629.

Best Regards,
ADP3
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Leaving an open slot next to the hammer is the issue that's prevented me from removing any locks.
A properly designed gap filler would be a definite plus, IMHO.

-jwk-
US Army '72-'95
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Ok so I didn't say anything at the time but I have a plain ol plate the fits properly in the cavity beside the hammer. Pictures below. What I'd like to find out is what kind of demand there are for these. Not really wanting to run a batch of them and have them sit which I'm sure yall understand.

The one in the pic is a raw stainless prototype right off the machinery. It would still need a few minor adjustments before I'd let em out into the world. Thinking about doing all 4 finishes same as my Lock Delete Slugs that I sell over in the classifieds. S&W LOCK DELETE PLUG on hand DIFFERENT STYLE Made in Arizona by ORIGINAL PRECISION

Chime in if you would want one or have questions or comments.

There will be no Slug attached this is a plain ol plate to fill the void beside the hammer. Attaching a Slug would be slick yes, but I've looked into many means of attachment and all that I have found have a failure point which I am not willing to do. Too much recoil to trust a little fastener. (heck was talking to Dave O'Meara the other day and he let me know his yolk screw broke at the range, and that's a decent size screw many times larger than anything I could get tucked into a plate to hold a Slug)


Floor is open thanks for checking this out and for your input.

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R/S
J.D.

I would most definitely purchase this and a slug to fill the gap. I have been considering a N frame purchase and one of the things holding me back is the lock/flag and the ability to replace them.

Do it......please.

The Plate would be a stand alone like I mentioned above. Not able to be used with a Slug. Pretty much Plate to fill the void and there's still a hole in frame. Or Slug to fill the hole and still have void beside hammer would be the options.

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J.D.

Well dang. Still a good product for those who prefer the frame gap filled as opposed to the lock hole.

My concern is could that piece of metal potentially impede and jam the hammer if it happened to slide out of position while the hammer is back?

Good question. I have that covered in the way I made this one. It can't come out. Shaped to go up into the fork well. It's "bound" up and down, fore and aft far as movement goes. It can't move backwards more than a few thou if that in my 329. Upwards same few thou if that. Sits captured between frame and hammer. Hammer slips down it like its not even there. Constant contact and containment at round base of hammer. Upper part of hammer slides along it. Does sit there loose so it will float about .010 or so to the hammer side. Flushes out with inside frame. It does make a sound when you move your gun around. Its like a tinggy round in the cylinder sound that I don't like and worst part nothing I can do to make that sound go away. Not trying to be negative just 100% straight up about what it is so y'all will know.

Just thought about it and came back to edit this. The float left to right has me very concerned that in the field if and yep big if but if mud chunks of limestone siftings anything like that got packed into the hole somehow it could close down tolerance beside the hammer and potentially make a problem. Hate to say it folks but that's an epic fail I'm not willing to risk. This prototype goes on my shelf

Thanks for all the input and PMs. I like doing different parts so let me know if there's anything everyone might like to have.

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J.D.

I'm excited to have one of your SS Lock Delete Plugs on the way. I put (132) rounds of .45acp and (30) rounds of .45Super thru my M625 yesterday. All ran well at the range, wonderful pistol and now my favorite revolver. My brother and I get back to my house, eat lunch, then pull our pistols out of the range bags to talk and clean them. I noticed the one of the side plate screws, (the one that sits right below the cylinder), had backed out damn near 4 complete turns under recoil. I know it was 4 turns because that's how many it took to make it just past snug again. If that screw can come loose under recoil with factory installed red loc-tite then how long before that damned lock rotates and locks up the pistol is a question I hate to think about. Also, the cylinder thumb release screw had loosened about 1.5 turns itself as well. I'm glad I ordered your lock delete J.D. and I can't wait to get it installed and give a review here about it.

And to answer your original question, yes, I would like to have a blank slab fill where the flag is going to come out from beside the hammer. However, if it cannot work along side the lock delete plug... then I would rather have the lock delete plug. Maybe in time you can figure out a way for both of them to work together!

The red material on the yoke screw is NOT red Locktite. If it was, that screw would still be in place, and you would play hell trying to get it loose.

As for the gun locking up, literally 10's of millions of rounds have been shot out of these guns since the lock mechanism was introduced, and how many verified reports of guns locking up have been filed? Half a dozen maybe? You are far more likely to have a firing pin break, so maybe we should add that to our list of worries and remove the lock from said list.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Do you care to tell me what the red material is then? Its so hard I cannot get it off the threads with dental tools/picks...

I'd like a ham & wild rhubarb sammich please.

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NRA Benefactor

It's something S&W went to several years ago, and is meant to stay there so it can be reused each time the gun is disassembled. In my time working on cars, I can tell you that Red Loctite is an anaerobic thread sealant (sets up with lack of air) that is almost like epoxy glue. It is not meant to be used on something that is going to be removed, in other words, it's considered permanent. Loctite themselves recommend using at least 550 degrees of heat to break loose.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

I would be interested in this, but only if it could use a plug for the lock hole too. Otherwise I will just do as present and leave the lock in place on my 627 Pro. It hasn't given me problems so far, but it is an eyesore to me.

How about a one piece plug/plate assy?

JB weld to secure them together, plug ever so slightly snug for the hole to keep the assy captured?

I'm interested to see how it's held in place/cracked open views.

I would probably be down for two, depending on cost.

I'm interested in a one piece filler/plug. Seems like you could use the old fork to hold it in place, no?

I'd be interested in a stainless steel polished version that was all one piece. The filler plate and hole plug all in one piece. You pull back the spring, and press it into the hole. I think it could be done.

Whatever your outcome, I applaud your efforts and ingenuity.

Thanks for the input. I looked into this method a while ago. Good thing I already retain Patent rights on that prototype plate. I can machine that part there is no doubt about it. I already know how to do it.

There is a concern in the back of my head about a particular stress point in a solid part with the additional unsprung weight to the rear that has the ability to move a bit latterly under recoil specifically in lightweight magnums and 500s.

I showed the plate here cause that part could have been easily machined and finished at a reasonable price for everyone without this particular stress point. A full machined part from a block with multiple setups and fixtures is a different story.

Keeping it reasonably priced is a whole nother story too. Couple things can be a problem and will drive price up a good bit cause of what I'd have to do to overcome those and make it work along with the setup and fixture costs.

I guess the question is how much are y'all willing to pay for a part like this machined from a solid block of material. You can PM or email me the amount no need to put that out in a post. Not to sound funny but tellin me you want them is very much appreciated. But they absolutely would not be even close to the price of my Lock Delete Slug sets. Multiply that a few to a handful of times and we may be close. Don't worry I'm still kicking around a cost effective way to do this for y'all.

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J.D.

Just waiting for someone who lives in the CNC world to call foul on some of this discussion. I know just enough to smell some of the stuff you guys are stepping in.

I live in the CNC world, have for many many years. Never said it couldn't be done. Said there's hurdles and I had to be able to do it at a price folks would be willing to pay. And that I can get my initial cash investment for a run back in a reasonable time frame.

The plain ol plate had a potential failure from crud getting packed into hole in the field so it got shelved.

I won't manufacture anything that could fail. I'm sure everyone can understand my reasoning for that. I'd never sleep at night knowing my parts were in someone's gun and they could need to use it in a situation and have a failure.

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J.D.