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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 08-05-2017, 05:18 PM
geokeg geokeg is offline
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Default Buying tips for a new 66

I am looking for advice on specifics to look at when buying a new model 66 with 4.25" barrel. I am hoping to assure a defect free purchase and avoid return for warranty stuff. I looked at one today and cycled the hammer to cock, sqeeze, and feel the action which was smooth. I have read of a few different things on the forum like blow back into the face of the shooter, binding action, etc. I really like the feel of the gun and plan to buy one, just hoping to get one that is functionally correct. It will be a hiking/camping/range gun that will be shot, not a stored in the safe unit, so perfect cosmetics will not stop a purchase.
Thanks
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Old 08-05-2017, 06:56 PM
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I bought a 66 and 69 that have been flawless. You only hear about the occasional bad one on the forums.


Model 69  2 3/4 inch.-dsc_0039-jpg
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:12 PM
geokeg geokeg is offline
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Thanks for the input. I hear you, one failure can get a lot of coverage and statistically be insignificant.
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:18 PM
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if it feels good, looks good (passes visual inspection) then buy it.
I have a few Smiths, and my experience is that i find them to be fine hand guns...
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:25 PM
ken158 ken158 is offline
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Feel the action, check the timing and be sure the barrel is clocked / indexed properly. Benefit of buying one in hand over an internet order.
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:42 PM
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Just look at the fit and finish overall and then down the barrel and the cylinders. Pay particular attention to the forcing cone that it at least looks neat and the cylinder gap is within normal range (just look at a few other revolvers to get a sense of "normal'). And try the trigger.

My muzzle had a bit of a burr around the edge but I cured that with a little 320 grit wet/dry over my finger tip (15 seconds of circular pressure using my finger tip to set the angle). Perfect.

I have had my 2.75" 66-8 for 3 months. I have shot it a ton. I love it. I also have a 3" 66-2, a 3" 65-3, a 3" 686-6 Plus, and a 3" GP 100. The new 66-8 is right there with them. I particularly like the new detent lock-up at the crane. The 2-piece barrel gives it a great look. Seriously, this was a great purchase.
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:44 PM
Kenneth07ex Kenneth07ex is offline
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You get good service, you tell a couple people. You get bad service you tell everyone. That, and the fact that this is the S&W forum, is why you see so much of it here. Where else you gonna go to vent, and try to develop a plan of recourse? So bad apples are going to surface here often. In my opinion, it doesn't mean much, about the average new gun out there. Just carefully inspect it, before taking it home.

As a more exact answer, I'd make a mental list of things to check, like push off, b/c gap, smooth, light trigger pull, canted barrel, etc. Then I'd probably make at least a couple trips, to give me an opportunity to remember something else to check. Maybe take a buddy that knows something about guns. It's a large purchase, for a lifetime product, so I'd be thorough.

I always have a keychain flashlight, for checking the rifling. Always check the action, I'd dry fire it a couple times. Fit & finish is important also. If you're buying, but not taking it home right away, I'd discretely check the serial numbers, while inspecting it. So you're certain that it's the exact gun you've been looking at. I wouldn't put anything past anybody.

I don't look at a lot of new guns, but I've seen some ugly specimens out there. So they're not that rare. But I wouldn't worry about it, if you've missed something. Stuff happens, and you do what you can. In the end, if you missed something S & W.will make it right.
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:53 PM
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If the barrel is clocked on the new M66, something is really wrong. With the two piece barrel, the front sight is on the shroud, which is keyed to the frame. Alignment does not depend on barrel torque. A good thing.
I had to send my 66 snub back for warranty work. It is a pain to not have the new gun for a month or so, but S&W makes it as easy as possible, paying for shipping both ways. That is rare. The good part is that my revolver got a better inspection then it did at the assembly line. For sure!

Best,
Rick
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Old 08-05-2017, 10:39 PM
Mr.Harry Mr.Harry is offline
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Take good look at the crown, forcing cone, the seams of everything at crane & yoke
and rifling through the barrel. You don't have to convince yourself that this gun is guilty until proven innocent, but we will likely
Be spared listening to a giant bashing post if you look at the gun closely the first time.
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Old 08-05-2017, 10:54 PM
kaaskop49 kaaskop49 is offline
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Perhaps bring a "revolver person" with you to the LGS and have that individual inspect the gun. It can be a bit overwhelming to try this yourself in the LGS if you haven't done it before.

Kaaskop49
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:37 PM
JR2ATN JR2ATN is offline
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The front sight was not centered on mine. Here it is now, sporting Kim Ahrends retro combats

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Old 08-06-2017, 05:28 PM
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The biggest thing I would look at on the 4.25" model is sort of what JR2ATN is saying above... look at the barrel and top strap anti-glare serrations, and be sure they line up as closely as possible. That's probably been the biggest complaint I've seen on the 4.25" model, which leads to the front sight possibly being canted. If the serrations are aligned between the barrel and top strap, you're mostly home free aside from double-checking the timing, action, etc.
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:38 PM
geokeg geokeg is offline
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Default Thanks!

Lots of good tips. Thanks guys!
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:11 PM
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On the new 66 snub here, despite the fact that there should be no barrel cant in a two-piece design, I had to move the rear blade markedly off center to the right to get windage lined up.

I didn't expect it to be perfectly centered, but was surprised at how far I did have to move it.

Make no assumptions based on the two-piece barrel.
Denis
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Old 08-07-2017, 05:41 PM
JR2ATN JR2ATN is offline
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It looks like the barrel is canted but look at the rear sight too relative to those anti-glare lines.. they just milled the lines on the frame off-center.

However, the front sight is also off-center slightly on its base on the barrel shroud.
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Old 08-07-2017, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macinaw View Post
I bought a 66 and 69 that have been flawless. You only hear about the occasional bad one on the forums.


Model 69  2 3/4 inch.-dsc_0039-jpg
I have yet to see either one in the flesh. I really want to get a 2 3/4" M69, I guess I'll order one.

I like those wood grips, details on those?
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:03 PM
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Altamont Altai.
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Old 08-08-2017, 10:27 AM
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Check the forcing cone, that has been the big issue with almost every 66-8. Fine for 38 special, but to shallow for 357. They fix it but I suspect it was a tooling issue since it is so common on the first run of guns.

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Old 08-08-2017, 10:42 PM
TENWOLVES TENWOLVES is offline
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Default 66 combat magnum

I brought a new 66 home the other day, and I'm very impressed, nice gun, fit and finish is top nothch, the cylinder lock up seems to be much stronger than older models, but the thing I like the best is how it feels in hand, the balance is great, mine has a 2 3/4 ' barrel, and should fit right in with my other packing guns as well as concealed carry...
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Old 08-09-2017, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol-Invictus View Post
Check the forcing cone, that has been the big issue with almost every 66-8. Fine for 38 special, but to shallow for 357. They fix it but I suspect it was a tooling issue since it is so common on the first run of guns.

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+1

My 2.75 model went back for this and now is one of my favorites to take to the range. Now I'm thinking about the Model 69. Both the 2.75 and 4.25 are great shooters.
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