I usually carry a 2 1/2" Model 66, as it's ideal for a conceal carry .357 Magnum. It's light enough (36 oz) to carry comfortably all day long (provided you use a good IWB holster and double thickness belt). It's also heavy enough to be comfortable to shoot with full power loads (provided you use a decent grip). It's also readily concealable, provided you use a short enough grip.

However, I usually practice with my 2 1/2" 686+, due to the increased durability. I also carry it frequently, primarily because I added night sights. It's about 4 oz heavier and while it is slightly wider and taller it still fits most of my Model 66 holsters. The Model 66 and 686 feel the same in the hand, and there no practical difference shooting one or the other, assuming the triggers are comparable.

I opted for the 7 shot 686+ because it was available used in excellent condition at a great price, and I certainly don't mind having a 7th round.

I also have a Ruger Speed Six that I'll also carry and shoot from time to time. The Six series DA revolvers were designed to specifically address the durability and forcing cone issues with the K-frame .357s. Ruger used larger, heaver investment cast fire control parts along with a stronger frame that does not utilize a side plate, and a heavier forcing cone that is not milled flat on the bottom as it is in the S&W K frame revolvers. That flat spot at the 6 o clock location results in the forcing cone being thinner there and the v shaped cuts caused by forcing cone erosion can create enough stress in that thin section to cause a crack.

They Six series DA revolvers hold up extremely well to a steady diet of .357 Mag loads, and the 2 3/4" barrel on the Speed Six is a little more efficient than the 2 1/2" barrels on my S&Ws. The Ruger trigger feels a bit more mechanical than the S&W but in general the trigger pulls are comparable (and like the S&W triggers of that era, they vary a bit from revolver to revolver).

The Speed Six also splits the difference weight wise between my 686+ and Model 66 at 37.5 oz.


2 1/2" Model 686-5+ (top), 2 3/4" Speed Six (middle), and 2 1/2" Model 66-4 (bottom).



In terms of longevity, I'd actually recommend the Ruger Speed Six, Security Six or Service Six revolvers. They have heavier forcing cones and while I have seen some very high round count Rugers with seriously eroded forcing cones, I've never seen one with a crack in it.

Otherwise, any of the L frames will do just fine. I don't really have a preference between the 686 and the 686+. The offset notch in the cylinder was actually a big marketing thing for Ruger with the Six Series revolver long before it showed up in the 7 shot 686+. It does remove what is otherwise a weak spot in the cylinder, but it's not something that will ever make a difference if you're staying within the 35,000 psi SAAMI specification, so it's mostly a marketing ploy.

Thanks Bruce, I realize that they're tested at the factory, but that was a suggestion made. I'm more concerned about wasting bullets, powder, primers, and time working up a load before the barrel is ready for it. No, I'm not sure what I mean by ready for it either.

Thanks

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Mike
Norman Oklahoma

Other than some smoothing of the trigger, which can be accomplished with dry firing, I don't get this concept of "breaking in" a revolver. Shoot the thing.

In working up a hand load, if you are thorough and maticuless about it, more than enough rounds will have gone down the bore to break it in...what ever that means.

Dave

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RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

6 rounds, 7 rounds, the cylinder walls of a 686 are identical, except between chambers. Cylinders with odd numbers of chambers have the locking notches between chambers, instead of directly over, which creates a very thin spot which can be bulged with a hot load. The usual symptom is difficulty ejecting.

For easy, accurate shooting, it is hard to beat the TRR8, N-frame, 8 shot, with an aluminum frame, steel cylinder and two-piece barrel. It is a sweet shooter, but with a 5" barrel, a little hard to carry. It's only 35 oz, but that's enough to tame any recoil.

As a "woods gun" I prefer a 686 with a 3" barrel to save a little weight and bulk. I use a "boot" grip, which only comes to the bottom of the frame, with space for two fingers.

My all-around favorite is a 627 Pro, which is an N-frame with an 8 round cylinder. It has a 4" barrel with a tapered lug, which gives it good balance. I can carry it IWB, but outside the belt is more comfortable, more to barrel length than weight. The Pro model has a tuned PC trigger, but not the ball-detent cylinder lock of the PC.

The K-frame 19 (blue) and 66 (stainless) is slightly smaller in all dimensions than the 686. Very nice, but out of print. The weak spot if the forcing cone, which is flattened on one side to clear the crane. creating a thin spot which is prone to cracking with frequent use with high-velocity, low mass bullets. Stick with 158 grain, and you're golden.

"Breaking In " a DA primarily consists of the contact surfaces in the lockwork mating to each other , ie smoothing themselves . This will potentially make trigger pull smoother and lighter . That could assist you in shooting closer to the gun's potential.

Any difference in the gun's mechanical accuracy would be essentially zero.

I just got a 686+ Pro Series 5" that is my new favorite because of the balance and accuracy. I say get whatever feels "right".

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Foster Positivity.

I'm not so sure today's steel is stronger, although it may be more consistent.

I suspect the engineers at S&W considered the recoil and how many rounds of full power .357 Magnum ammunition the average shooter would put through it, and relied on the level of discomfort to limit the round count to ensure a suitable life span.

Hi, I took the 686-6 3-5-7 out today for the first time. Shooing .357 Mags instead of .38 Special will take a little getting used to. The wood laminate grips will take some getting used to, or will get replaced with Hogues like the other revolvers I have. I'll have to dry fire quite a bit to get the double action trigger smoothed out, single action seems fine at this point.

Later

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Mike
Norman Oklahoma

Have you considered having a gunsmith do a trigger job for you?