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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 09-15-2017, 09:25 PM
smithrjd smithrjd is offline
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Default Cleaning a Scantium

What do folks use to clean the cylinder? I have Hoppe's elite, and have used a pencil eraser. None get the powder burn off well. On blued pistols I use Hoppe's #9 and 0000 steel wool. On Stainless I use Lead Away cloth. I do not want to erode the coating, but hate a dirty looking pistol. Does anything work well? The pistol in question is a rather odd 357PD in 41 Magnum.
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:30 PM
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If you'r referring to titanium cylinders, be very careful.
Lots of threads on this subject,
Anything abrasive, your pencil eraser included, may damage the coating, leading to possible erosion.
I have two S&Ws with titanium cylinders.
They get soaked with MPro7, scrub with nothing more aggressive than a soft toothbrush.
Some stains remain. They do no harm. Trying to remove them may lead to coating damage.
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:34 PM
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Ya know, I clicked on this thread hoping someone would offer up a great new method. Sure, I expected too much.
I'm guessing you have a pretty valuable gun because they didn't make many and not for long. I've got one I've never shot tucked away.

I wish S&W would just come out and tell us they have a magic formula or that the guns just can't be cleaned. If you want to shoot .41 mags, buy a steel revolver and save your exotic one for carry. I know that's not the answer you or I want.
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:37 PM
A.J.R. A.J.R. is offline
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CLP and a once over with microfiber towel is the extent I mess with the burn marks on the cylinder face of my 986.
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:59 PM
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I have pretty much come to the conclusion that dirty cylinders are a fact of life. I do carry and shoot it, that it what I bought it for. As well as what S&W made it for.
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:07 PM
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Not trying to be difficult, but I'd suggest just learn to live with the powder burns for the most part so that after a thorough cleaning of the charge holes and a quick wipe down of the exterior, it's ready for the next session.
ETA:
Since its titanium, I might amend my suggestion of thorough cleaning to proper cleaning of the charge holes.

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Old 09-15-2017, 10:38 PM
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No issue with chambers, they clean up fine. Just the powder flash on the cylinder face and some powder burns on the sides. I know that there is no issue with function. I guess it is the price to pay for a 25 ounce .41 mag. Still one that will stay around, it is my hunting carry. Took me a year and a half to fine one.
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:46 PM
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CLP and a nylon brush. Any burn marks etc that don't come off with this method, should be embraced.

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Old 09-15-2017, 10:52 PM
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When it comes to metal finishes or materials that are uncertain like alloy, I always recommend break free. I used to hate it, but after 24 years as an infantryman, I swear by it. I've used it on nearly everything, successfully. As a close backup, I might suggest Ballistol. It's German. I bought some in a German gun store one time and the German salesman bragged that in WWII the Wehrmacht used it for everything, even to dress wounds. To prove it, he squirted some in his throat. After watching him trying not to puke for ten minutes, I finally gave him a break and bought a bottle of it anyway. Seriously, it's okay on wood, leather and metal, it's bio friendly and smells really interesting.
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Old 09-15-2017, 11:29 PM
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I have this "issue" with my governor. I have learned to just live with it, gives revolver character. For what its worth, i know plenty of Ruger guys who have the same issue even with stainless. They embrace it.

Taurus guys dont care.......cuz taurus.
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Old 09-16-2017, 03:20 AM
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I use a toothbrush and Hoppe's Elite. The carbon on the cylinder face is not going to disappear. It's just part of the package, when it comes to S&Ws with titanium cylinders.

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Old 09-16-2017, 05:12 AM
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For my stainless GP100 I've been using green rouge and a very soft, cotton buffing wheel on my bench grinder. Works miracles.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:07 AM
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Hoppes Elite and an old tee shirt. That stuff is amazing as far as cleaning. Otherwise, I dont scrub anything on my Scandium frames or Titanium cylinders.
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:36 AM
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I use Ballistol for everything on everything. It is the safest way to go. I buy wood sticks with cotton on end called Ramrodz made for every caliber size. They are just like giant q-tips. Put a little ballistol on cotton end and run back and forth in charge holes sometimes spinning. After they are done a little ballistol on outside of cylinder wipe all around with paper towel then lastly take q-tips to clean each cylinder stop notch and she is all clean. Sometimes got to work awhile on the dark powder spots but eventually they come 90% clean.
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:41 AM
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Here is how it's advertised, gun shops sometimes sell it, or buy online from the major sites.
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Old 09-16-2017, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddio202 View Post
Here is how it's advertised, gun shops sometimes sell it, or buy online from the major sites.
It's good stuff. Just don't gargle with it 😜
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