Hi all. Love my 617, but its a PITA to clean after each range session. I recently learned how to remove the cylinder and crane by unscrewing the front side plate screw and it got me thinking that it would probably be easier to clean if the cylinder were seperated from the frame. So do you think it is a bad idea to repeatedly remove and return that screw to its hole, over and over again over the lifetime of the revolver? Or will it likely not harm it? I'm thinking of stripping the threads on the frame (screw itself is only a few $'s on Brownells).

Don't remove the screw unless you have a hollow ground screwdriver that is the exact size to fit the screw. It should be easy to spray the cylinder with whatever cleaner you are using and then use your brass brush to scrub the chambers. I usually brush each chamber 5 times and move on.

Clean the rest with a wet patch then oil and you are good to go.

I would not remove it every time the gun's cleaned.
Denis

Note...
The M69 and one of the new 357s do not have a gas ring of any type at the front of the cylinder. When my 69 gets a little sluggish next time I have enough rounds thru it, I think I'll just drip some Hoppe's/Kroil mix into the junction and spin it awhile to drain all the scunge out.
I only rarely remove the assembly.

I would balance how many times I remove and replace that screw up against how much strain I place on the yoke by cleaning each and all of the chambers. In my case, shooting each of my revolvers only infrequently, I always remove the yoke and cylinder. Sure, the yoke is a strong part - but you are putting a lot of strain on it to brush each chamber. Removed and replaced carefully, I cannot imagine wearing out the threads by doing this - and the screw can be replaced. Kinda off-topic - but I'd be bored by shooting the same .22 each range session. Get yourself a Buckmark, Mark IV and M&P Compact .22 - then you'll only have to clean one chamber - instead of 10 - after each range session ...

I remove the cylinder every time I clean my revolvers. But then I don't clean after every time I shoot them.

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Semper Vigilantes

Strain on the yoke from running a brush through? You must clean very vigorously ...

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Just Say No - To Social Media

As long as you use the right screwdriver and use some care it should not be a problem. I take mine out every time I clean a revolver. It allows me to be more thorough.

BB213,
I recommend not worrying about it. Clean it whichever way makes you happy.

On one hand there's no problem with removing the cylinder every time you clean your 617 and on the other hand you can leave the cylinder in place every time you clean your 617.

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Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well

I remove the cylinder every time I clean my 617s, so much easier. After several years, don't see any signs of ware.

Will

^^^^^^^^
What he says.

The cylinder is simply easier to clean if removed. You don't get solvent in places you don't want solvent, and the face of the cylinder is much easier to scrub with a brass brush to remove powder and lead fouling.

I remove the cylinder and stocks to clean all my revolvers after a range session.

I do clean the cylinder and yoke every cleaning. I don't own guns that I don't shoot, so it's turn in the rotation might be a while.

My opinion is that S&W builds strong enough revolvers that the decision is just a preference for the individual shooter, and not a recommendation for the longevity of the gun.

Yup, me too!

Until now I didn't know how to remove a crane. Cleaning the recessed cylinder of my 63 is a nuisance but not so bothersome that I would take the gun apart to make it easier.

What about guns with a no-tools cylinder change, like some of the .22/.22 WRM revolvers? Taurus recently made one.
Geoff
Who notes the barrel was too long for his tastes and he's still looking for a Ruger Single Six interchangeable.

I also remove the cylinder and yoke each time I clean my Smiths. It's just easier to clean with the cylinder removed from the frame, for me at least. As long as you use the correct hollow ground screwdriver you won't booger up the head of the screw either.

And yes, you can have problems if you never remove the yoke and cylinder to clean properly. I have seen some guns that were gummed up enough that the cylinder was tough to open. Be sure to clean inside the hole in the frame where the yoke goes with a Q-tip just dampened with solvent. Cleaning a gun properly and regularly keeps it running trouble-free.

Personally, in over 50 years of revolver shooting I can say I rarely remove a cylinder for cleaning, yet have had zero problems from this "neglect".

In perusing the current S&W revolver owner's manual, I see no reference to removing the cylinder for routine cleaning - but I DO see a warning against field-stripping or disassembling your gun unnecessarily. Call me old-fashioned, but I believe in following a manufacturer's recommendations, since they usually know pretty well how to treat their own products better than the users do.

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Pisgah

I've been shooting for almost 50 years and have never removed the cylinder & never had any problems.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

S&W has never instructed or recommended removal of the cylinder for regular cleaning.

Same here, and for the same reasons. Especially with the NM 66 in both 4.25" and 2.75", no gas ring typically means a fair bit of carbon crud in the cylinder. I also put either masking or electrical tape around the screw before removing/re-inserting. Even with the correct size screwdriver, one slip = a scratch you have to live with for a while.

Seems like a good many people remove the cylinder for cleaning. There's another thread about this here.

I've never done it. Just doesn't seem necessary to me.

I've only been cleaning some of the same revolver favorites for 35-40 years. Because they are the favorites they are used more often. They are cleaned after each use, whether it's a long afternoon's plinking session in the country or a single shot essayed in the direction of a nuisance skunk. When cleaning them, it is found to be much more convenient and thorough to remove the cylinder. I'm happy and the revolvers are happy.

If I shoot more than one cylinder load at a session I remove the cylinder. If not then I just run a Hoppes #9 soaked patch through the chambers, then dry ones and finally wipe down the whole revolver.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

For routine cleaning, no. Every couple of years I remove it for cleaning. While it hasn't happened to me yet, if cylinder rotation starts becoming sluggish I would remove it for cleaning. Otherwise, I see no reason to do it. Same thing with opening the sideplate.

Cleaning? What's this "cleaning" y'all are talking about?

I admit that I'm not obsessive about cleaning my firearms. My goals are to prevent rust and to remove leading or Cu fouling to make sure that they retain their accuracy. Beyond that, dirt doesn't bug me. My firearms get used a lot, so I don't want to make a career of cleaning.

With that said, I will do an occasional deep clean. Not just removing the cylinder, but the sideplate too. Remove the guts and get 'er really clean and lightly lubed. No different than a car. Sometimes you just wash it, on occasion you detail it.

That's just another opportunity for me to drop a screw and spend the rest of my retirement looking for it.

When I was in the police academy in 1986 we were issued model 10's and were instructed to remove the cylinder for proper cleaning. It has just stuck with me.

^^^^what he (they) said! A police duty sidearm is exposed to the elements and stresses that the enthusiast's gun is usually not. I said 'usually.' Rain, snow, condensation from temperature drops, exhaust crud from vehicles, impacts from falling and banging into doors, etc. It can be helpful to learn how to clean thoroughly. Remove cylinder: maybe, if you know how. Pop a sideplate: let the armorer do that!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

About 70% of the time I do remove the cylinder/yoke assembly after each range session.

The times that I don't remove it are usually when I shot only 10 rounds testing a new load.

To me,the hardest place to clean is the burn marks on the side of the cylinder.The front of the cylinder is left mostly as is for about 5+ shooting sessions.I've found that applying a little case lube on the cylinder before firing helps make the after range cleaning a bit easier.

For the cylinder holes I use a bore brush one size larger than the gun's caliber.In the .45cal cylinder holes I use a 50cal brush etc.

A really nice 3" 13-2 I bought last Saturday is presently residing in a tub of Marvel Mystery Oil with stocks removed of coarse.I'll leave it in there about 5 days before lubing it for a range session.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

I remove the cylinder on all guns for each cleaning, except the model 63. For it I just run a bore snake through all the chambers and barrel. Never had any problems with screws or yokes by taking the cylinder out of the gun.
I use a chamber brush chucked in a quarter inch drill to clean the chambers , so I know it is safer to do so with the cylinder out than trying to do it with the cylinder still installed in the gun.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

Kinda depends on how dirty and how much time I have if a detailed disassembly is done. Usually not, but some times may involve not just yoke/cylinder but also side plate and innards.

I used to remove the cylinder for cleaning until I dropped one one time and chipped an extractor star. S&W was kind enough to fix it for free but I'll never remove a cylinder for routine cleaning ever again. Absolutely no reason. A nylon GLOCK bore brush chucked into my cordless drill while I hold the gun by the cylinder makes short work of the chambers. I could maybe see removing it once a year for a deep cleaning.

The revolver is not designed to have the cylinder removed every time you clean it, nor is it necessary.

Sir,

To answer your question, if it is done carefully each and every time, there will probably be no harm done. The problem is related to Mr. Murphy -accidents, mistakes, inattentiveness, poor lighting, age-related eyesight deterioration, shaky hands from who knows what, etc., etc., etc. If all that and more can be avoided the rest of our days -OK. A number of folks who have responded have done so thus far. I've probably exaggerated the risk, too.

But I've never seen the difficulty involved in leaving the cylinder in the frame. All I do is lay the gun on its right side on the bench, open the cylinder, wrap a rag around the grips to prevent solvent from contacting them, and hold the cylinder firmly between the thumb and index finger of one hand while working the cleaning rod back and forth with the other. This removes the stress on the yoke mentioned earlier, if that is a concern. Nothing to it, as I see it.

Best wishes in resolving the issue,
Andy

I only remove cylinder maybe once a year for a good clean and lube so that works out to once every 40 range sessions. Too much to remove my cylinders 50 times a year. I use ramrodz caliber specific wooden dowel Q-tips to clean cylinders and barrels. If it's really grimey maybe a brass brush. That's just my way of doing it cause a lot of the weeks I get out twice a week to the range. Thankfully I have acquired around 50 guns now to spread out the load so none of my good revolvers get too much shooting time.

I take the cylinder and crane out maybe once per year, maybe less or never.

I do it first when I take possession and but some grease on the pivot surfaces but then leave it alone.

I mean if the cranes can take battering from unto 44 mag, a few brush strokes will be fine. Better than wearing our crews and threads.

I'm wondering if some people here are afraid of taking their firearms apart?

It's so simple and you won't hurt the gun unless your name is Bubba,I promise.

A target gun maybe not so important unless using in competitions but an EDC....

I've bought used guns that were never disassembled for a thorough cleaning and lube in 20 years or more that previous owners had them.
Now they're squeaky clean.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

I have a m17 that I bought new in 64. I don't clean the gun after
each use in cold weather but I do in the summer. I have taken
cylinder out every time it's been cleaned. 100s of times and still
has original screw. No signs of wear from doing this. My other
bigger caliber guns I do take apart and clean almost every time
I shoot them. Unless I know that I will be shooting again in near
future. Use the proper tools and cleaning accessories and I don't
believe you are going to harm the gun. I other words I'm not
going to put gun away dirty for extended periods of time, and
for proper cleaning cylinder has to come out. When I 1st got my
17 as a kid, me and my dad were plinking and were a good ways
into a brick of 22s. Gun got to be sluggish to cock, dad said don't
mess with it, we were going to Smith anyway over a shotgun.
We were embarrassed when Smith told us there was nothing
wrong with it except it was dirty. We had wiped off cylinder face
but that wasn't enough. Smith dropped out the cylinder and
cleaned the assembly, put back in and it run like a champ. That
started me dropping cylinder from then on.

I remove the cylinder every time. No problems that I've encountered.

Clint Eastwood once said; "A man's got to know his limitations." I'm past 70, know my limitations and leave the cylinder where the factory put it.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

I generally clean after every use,(if only a boresnake with a few drops of solvent) but every use is at least 100 rounds of cast. Removing the cylinder is so easy and makes brushing the cylinder face easier as well SO it's not a biggie for me to do it. TEHO. I look at gun cleaning like doing dishes, EVENTUALLY you will have to do it & the longer you wait, the harder it is. Cleaned at the range while still warm is a snap & leaves any mess/smell there.

I've found cleaning a 22 revolver to be a whole different ball game than cleaning a larger bore revolver. 22 ammo is much dirtier than other calibers, the tolerances on the 22's chambers are much tighter than larger calibers & 22s are fun & cheap to shoot, so they tend to be shot more. All these factors combine to make the 617 a headache to clean.

Since I use my 617 as a training tool for my 686+s, I shoot & clean it every week. If its not cleaned after every range session, the chambers quickly get so fouled that I can not insert a live round & the spent casings are difficult to eject. I've tried all the cleaning tips found on this forum & elsewhere, short of reaming the chambers. I don't remove the cylinder to clean weekly, but do remove it every six months or so. The only thing I found that makes cleaning slightly less of a hassle is shooting cleaner, more expensive ammo such as CCI.

Snowman hit it on the head. Just support the cylinder with your fingers if you feel the assembly can't take a bit of gentle back and forth.
For the face of te cylinder, soak with solvent with a q-tip. Let it sit awhile. Brush with a GI brush. Wipe clean. Supported with off hand, of course.
Ah well...
Everybody has their preferred method.
Enjoy the process!!

I don't remove the cylinder for every cleaning, but I have no compunctions about pulling the cylinder, popping the sideplate, and pulling every part out if I see the need.

These guns are simply not that complicated, and all my revolvers, both brand new and 60+ years old, have benefited from a thorough cleaning and very light lubing.

I think if you have just bought a new in the box firearm or a previously owned one a smart thing to do would be to thoroughly inspect and clean it.This entails grip removal and side plate removal.

In the case of previously owned guns you may be in for a big shock as to what you find has been done to a gun on the inside that looks great on the outside.Maybe you won't be able to to take it apart if the old owner used red loctite or JB Weld on the screws.If you're lucky you will only find after market reduced power mainspring and a clipped rebound spring but you may also encounter a sear that's had too much removed.

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NEVER GIVE UP YOUR GUN

I remove the stocks that's about it. The only time I would remove the cylinder and crane is if I cleaned and lubed and it was still gritty or resistant when I turned it.

I only shoot reloads and use dirty unique that gets in everything and still have not had a problem where I needed to remove the cylinder and crane.

Canned air and a soft bristled toothbrush are your friends.

I never remove a side plate if I don't have to. Last time I had to
do that was when I slipped and fell in creek while packing a 34.
Got it home and took out cylinder and was spraying it full of
C36,till it ran out. Couldn't let it rest, took off side plate and
removed every part, cleaned & oiled and reassembled. I don't
know if it was necessary but I slept better.

I always remove the Cylinder when I clean it. It's a 20 second job and makes cleaning a lot easier and doesn't put undo stress on the Yoke. It's also a little easier to clean the inside of the Frame. I see absolutely no downside to removing it with a proper Hollow Ground Screwdriver and at the same time the Yoke can be properly cleaned and lubricated which can not be done when left on the gun.