I picked up my TRR8 from the gunsmith yesterday. I was having a lot of light primer strikes. He fixed the light hammer strikes and said to stop using WW small pistol primers and change to CCI. Also showed me the trigger pull is heavier than before and said I could back off on the strain screw a little bit. And had a Volquartson trigger installed on a MKIV Ruger. WOW what a trigger.

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Sounds odd to me, the gunsmith advising backing off the strain screw a little... My understanding is the strain screw is to be screwed down tightly. The only time I ever had light hits was when that screw on my 686SSR loosened under firing.

I've been tempted to buy either the TRR8 or it's 'brother' (sister?) M&P R8, but the "light hits" issue rears it's ugly head too many times for my druthers. Does anyone fire only factory ammo in these guns? Any light hits with factory ammo? Sorry, but I can't listen to "installing a longer firing pin." It's supposed to fire 100% from the factory.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I have been shooting mine in Steel Challenge competition for years using Federal primers. Have never had a FTF.

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I have never heard that primer recommendation from any knowledable shooter. CCI's reputation is they are harder than winchester.
Usually its federals people say are the easiest to set off.
Several threads on here where folks have tested these.
Also strain screw Ideally should be shortened not backed off as a final adjustment. Although many people do just back them out and locktight it.

Groo here
If you have not,,, go to cylinder & slide and look up the "long" fireing
pin for S&W.
Some have a might short ones causing light hits.
Unless you want really light triggers, start with the fireing pin

I use Win primers in my TRR8 and I've never had any light primer strikes.

My 327TRR8 had light strikes right out of the box. It had the dreaded short firing pin (.486"), which is often problematic. I put a C&S extra length (.510") firing pin in & no more problems.

It has the factory mainspring with a Wolff 14# rebound spring. The factory strain screw is .396" long (threaded portion). I use CCI primers exclusively with no FTFs.

Some of the recent S&W firing pins I've bought from Midway run .494"-.496" long. If you have one of the "short" ones installed they could install one of their "longer" ones. I don't think going to a longer FP should be considered a sin.

I prefer the round nose Apex (discontinued?) over the pointed nose (currently produced?) but presently prefer a C&S over both.

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Waiting for the break of day

Nobody with factory ammo experience in the TRR8? Inquiring minds want to know.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

P.S. With the firing pin/ignition issues seemingly so common, it makes one wonder how LE allegedly used this model as an entry gun.

I got a few things. First is it common or just occasionally some unfortunate folks complain about it on here and it seems common. I never had the light strike problem with my TRR8. And I used to shoot all types of factory ammunition without problems but now I shoot my reloads.
I know it's designed as a police entry weapon but you can tell me if it's ever been used as one. I think it's a great home defense gun and have mine set up with a Streamlight on the lower rail for target identification in the dark and blinding the home invaders.

And to the OP. Get a better gunsmith. As another poster said CCI's are the hardest to ignite, Winchester is midrange, and Federals are the lightest to ignite. I don't like his strain screw advice either.

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Accuracy supercedes Speed

Should have recommended Federal primers

I don't necessarily prefer one primer over another but I've never had problems with Winchester in any of my loads.

More than a few Trr8's were known for having loosened stain screws from the factory. Mine was one of them. I just tightened it up and have been good to go since. I suspect yours suffered the same.
FWIW, I've always gone with Federal and Winchester being the softest primers available. Not sure why CCI would be recommended over the Winchester in a light striking gun.

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Dave

I used CCI primers for years and years. Many were hard to seat, even with with cases that had been reloaded 10-20 times. The last CCI small pistol primers I had were so oversize, they flattened on seating to the point I was afraid they would go off in seating. This was in mixed old brass that had been reloaded several times.

I will NEVER use another CCI primer unless all the other companies go out of business!!

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I love mine. No problems at all. Very fun gun to shoot. I usually shoot whatever cheap ammo I can get. My trigger pull was a little heavy. Installed some lighter springs. Still shoots fine. My strain screw is in all the way?

I think he replaced the mainspring and strain screw. And kranked the strain screw all the way in that's why he said I could back it out a little. I guess I need to find Federal SP primers. Other wise I LOVE that revolver

You can "play" with the strain screw as long as you know what you're doing, but once you find the right "depth" one should shorten it so it can still be torqued tight. It's usually done in conjunction with lighter rebound springs to get everything working correctly. Just one way to lighten the mainspring, other ways are aftermarket springs or modifying the original springs itself. The thing with backing out the strain screw is, you can only do it to a certain degree before the spring geometry changes enough to where it's impossible to function.

I would not be happy with a gun that doesn't function reliably from the factory either. There should be no extended firing pin swaps, or any other tricks needing done by the owner to enjoy any and all types of ammo available for it. Enjoying the gun is what matters though, and apparently many people enjoy these guns despite the issues. Whatever makes one happy, and I won't fault them for it.

This was a known problem with the TRR8 with factory ammo. The factory fixed mine by replacing the firing pin and strain screw at no charge. They even picked up the shipping both ways. The light strikes are cured and it's not at all ammo fussy.

...which begs the question, why would the factory produce/release a model known to have problems igniting factory ammo, the most basic function of any firearm?

Guess I'll look at a 627 Pro Series instead or simply stick with my 686SSR, the finest revolver I own.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

I bought my trr8 in May of this year. All I shoot is factory ammo (mostly .38's) and I have never had a failure to fire.

GREAT REVOLVER!!!

Advising CCI primers to help with light primer strikes as well as backing off the strain screw to lighten the trigger pull are not things I want to hear from a gunsmith.

If you really need to adjust tension on the spring get another strain screw and shorten to suit but always screw it in tight. Loose screws are not being used correctly; Especially when the end is touching something that constantly moves (flexing).

Groo here
Shot reloads through mine with factory.
Thr only light hits were with primers that seated more on one side.
I hand prime and seat then rotate 180 degrees and seat again.

Just because something is commonly referred to as "a know problem" today, does not mean it was known at the time of release.

Even though it is a "known problem" today, when the Model 66s were released no one knew that the stainless on stainless sear engagement would break down rapidly destroying the trigger pull. This is why the factory uses flash chromed parts these days.

Even though it is a "known problem" today, when the Model 627s were released no one knew that the mass of the unfluted cylinder would peen the stop notches so heavily. This is why the longer bolts were introduced in what became known as the Endurance Package

As the years progress, things are learned and products are altered to reflect that.

While I have never had a problem with my personal 327 TRR8, I would have no problem buying one today even with all the Internet talk of light hits.

The Model 327 TRR8 is an amazing revolver. Before you give up on the idea of owning one, see if a Forum Member near you will let you try theirs. If you were here in South Florida, I would gladly meet you at the range with mine, unfortunately there are no Class "Y" planets near my so I know you are a long way off

Sorry I can not be of much help on factory ammunition as I shoot hand loads almost 99% of the time in this revolver

Lou here

I have an R8. Although it fires mostly CCI primers and Winchester. I don't think I've ever fired factory out of it. Probably the least fired 8 shot I have (3k rounds) it has never failed to ignite a primer.

Sometimes I read stuff like"known problems" and wonder who "knows" they have a problem or is there really a problem.

I don't have any problems with mine



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It's my opinion, beyond an obviously too short FP, that little differences in gross headspace clearances can add up to make one gun more likely to experience light strikes over another of the same model.

I decided this after trying to pinpoint the reason why my 625PC would have light strikes (using 45AR cases) but the same firing pin in my 325TR did not. A longer FP resolved the trouble & the exact cause was never definitively pinpointed.

Also, some brass have slightly shallower primer pockets than others and with the primers firmly seated to the bottom some will be ~.001-.002" below flush. Another brand, with slightly deeper pockets, maybe be ~.008-.010" below flush, when firmly seated.

Combine the three, marginal FP length, a little extra gross headspace (&/or endshake), & deep primer pockets, some guns are just more reliable with an extra length FP.

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Waiting for the break of day

I have been wanting a M&P R8 since their debut. I have not been in the position to get one until recently (there always seemed to be something more financially pressing). However I have been reading about multiple issues. As this thread discusses, there is the issue of light strikes. I have also read about several cases of the barrel / barrel lug loosening up repeatedly. One owner stated that after sending his R8 back to be repaired, it only lasted a few hundred rounds before it loosened up again. Are these problems still an issue with newer production runs, or have they all been resolved?

You can buy the barrel nut wrench online, and tighten the nut/shroud yourself. I can't remember where, but I am sure I still have it bookmarked somewhere...

Never had an issue with mine. R8 and 617 are my favorite revolvers to shoot

They are sold out & presently taking backorders for the barrel nut tool. I've been on the list since Aug. & haven't heard anything more as to when they'll be available.

Smith & Wesson TRR8 327 Barrel Nut Wrench Tool .357 - $34.95 : EWK Arms

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fadetoblack73: I wouldn't let the sporadic issues reported deter you from one, especially light strikes as that's easily addressed. I enjoy mine & am glad I got it.

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Waiting for the break of day