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S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present All NON-PINNED Barrels, the L-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers


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Old 10-18-2017, 08:42 AM
DumpStick DumpStick is offline
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Default Finally got the 14-6 out

I came home with a 6" 14-6 last year. Or, maybe it was the year before. I wasn't really looking for one, but the price was right. It came with some un-marked rubber grips, I put the Altamonts on, and put it away.

I really hadn't taken the time to get to know it, so I took it out yesterday, walked out behind the barn with a handful of handloads for some familiarization fire. Load info on the target, for those interested.

25', standing, two hand, single action. I'm certain I am not shooting to this revolvers' potential, but, hey, it's the first time I shot it. At least I got a decent group.
Trigger is very smooth, single and double action. It's been fired alot, but the cylinder has almost no endplay - the PO shot competitions with it, and seems to have done some work to it.

I think that lowering the velocity will bring the impact point up - these are 125gr projectiles, somewhat light for caliber. I plan to use my cast Lyman 358495 wadcutters next. In addition to the cast wadcutters being heavier, they also fly slower, and have more bearing surface - all should help accuracy.

Getting some leading in the forcing cone, either my alloy is too hard, or the cylinder throats are too tight. I'll check the throats first.

I'm thinking of joining a club near me, and getting into some competitions - this may be one to get some practice on. If I can just get the idiot pulling the trigger to get on the ball, this revolver should really shine.
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:33 AM
DumpStick DumpStick is offline
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I got out my pin gauge set, and checked the cylinder throats.

As I suspected, the throats are a bit tight. All 6 throats pinned the same - a .357" will pass thru, but a .358" will not. The good thing - all throats are the same size.

Since I size all my lead 38/357 projectiles to .358, the bullet is swaging down to pass through the throat, then trying to obdurate in the barrel. It takes an inch or two to swell back up to barrel diameter, resulting in the leading I'm getting.

At least, that's the theory. The easiest and cheapest way to test this is to load some up sized to .357". Unfortunately, I don't have a 357 die, so I ordered one up.

We'll see what happens, after the die comes in.
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:51 AM
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murphydog murphydog is offline
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Cool gun. These have the reputation of being scary accurate with the right loads - basically the factory K frame competition gun for those not wanting to use an L frame.

The rubber stocks were probably original to the gun, if that matters. Looking forward to seeing the next target...
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:22 AM
S&WsRsweet S&WsRsweet is offline
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I love it when someone gets into the revolver in a scientific manner and brings out how truly accurate one can be in capable hands so kudos to you .As far as tne " idiot" pulling tne trigger goes I know a lot of guys who can't shoot that well with revolvers they have shot many round thru .I'll be watching for your post updates as you get your ammo and revolver dialed in ,good luck and that gun ain't hard to look at also so congrats.
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:34 AM
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It's nice that someone is actually interested. I'll do updates, but it's liable to be several days. The die is in transit, and I'm pretty sure that my overseer/social director has me lined out to rebuild the well-house next weekend.
A pic of the revolver as purchased. No idea whose grips they are.
I will probably put them back on, as soon as I find them.
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:36 AM
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glenwolde glenwolde is offline
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Most of the S&W's I've seen have had throats like that. I think they aim for .3575 as a compromise. I tried what you're about to try but it still leaded and accuracy didn't seem to change. Now I just ream them out.

But the 14-2 I just picked up was the tightest I've ever seen. Half the throats wouldn't take anything larger than .356, the other half .3555. Maybe that's why it looks like it hasn't hardly been shot? LOL

I didn't even bother shooting it. Normally I'd ream them myself but given my current living arrangement I decided to send this one out.

Conversely, I have a Taurus with .360+ throats. It does not shoot well and never will.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:18 AM
sw dan sw dan is offline
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when the full lug 14's first came out, they had the wood combats, do not know when it changed over, may be 14-7
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:54 AM
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Have a 14-6 with 6" barrel that IMO has best factory trigger pull of any S&W. It has original plastic blue box and S&W logo rubber grips. Grips are mounted with screw in butt rather than side. I've seen other 14-6's with Combat Grips too. I believe both were offered from S&W. Regretfully, I let a well used 14-5 go about 2 years ago that I wish I had back. I've recently watched a 14-5 and 14-6 go for $1600- $1800 each on GB auction. Word must be out on how fine these factory target revolvers are.

Last edited by SFIDEC; 10-20-2017 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:02 AM
spad124 spad124 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DumpStick View Post
It's nice that someone is actually interested. I'll do updates, but it's liable to be several days. The die is in transit, and I'm pretty sure that my overseer/social director has me lined out to rebuild the well-house next weekend.
A pic of the revolver as purchased. No idea whose grips they are.
I will probably put them back on, as soon as I find them.
The grips look like a R.E. Davis grip. He was a member of this forum a few years ago. I assume he still is. He built many PPC winning revolvers "back in the day" when revolvers were the choice for competition. I've had Davis grips on my 686-1 since the late 80s. Best grip I've found for me and my hands. Occasionally you'll find a set listed in the for sale sub forum. I picked up a second set that way a few years ago.

IIRC Davis marketed his K/L competition grips in the 80s under his own brand. He then sold the molds to a mass market grip maker who discontinued production once they bought up the rights to the grip. Probably buying up the competition to limit choices and support their own brand. About 4-5 years ago Davis recovered his molds and the right to produce. He started limited production again. I bought a third set from him directly when he started production again. From talking to him he's a great guy with well thought out and quality products. I'd post a pic of my 686 but I still have to convert my photos to a different hosting site.
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:49 PM
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My recently purchased 14-7 also came with the rubber grips with S&W logo at top and screwed in from bottom round butt style. Very nice gun the op owns. I would rather have tight throats then more open ones. Now you know to just swage your bullets to .357 or even purchase some as you don't seem to shoot that particular gun often if bought last year and just to shooting it now.
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:27 PM
Jim NNN Jim NNN is offline
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Looks like good shootin' to me. Those are such great guns.
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:55 PM
diyj98 diyj98 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DumpStick View Post
I think that lowering the velocity will bring the impact point up - these are 125gr projectiles, somewhat light for caliber. I plan to use my cast Lyman 358495 wadcutters next. In addition to the cast wadcutters being heavier, they also fly slower, and have more bearing surface - all should help accuracy.
I wouldn't worry about point of impact, that's why you have those adjustable sights. Just play around till you find the accuracy you're looking for.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:35 PM
toddcfii toddcfii is offline
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I believe the 14-5 came with wood grips and the 14-6 came with rubber grips. I think anything after or before these did not have the full lug.
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Old 10-19-2017, 10:18 PM
Qc Pistolero Qc Pistolero is offline
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I have one that dates back before the full underlug.It brought me more than my share of medals.I even think that the thing is so accurate as it didn't need me to win those medals.Enjoy yours!
Qc
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